What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Finally removed and replaced the rear lca toe adj hardware. My god was that nut/bolt a seized on mf'er. Required fire and much powa but it finally free'd itself w/o breaking anything in the process. Utilized some clean hardware from our good friend Carlos.

Couple weeks ago we free'd up the "frozen" front end with ease so the next tech won't have any excuses. Looking forward to her specs being in the "green" for the first time in 9 years.

Back story- Many alignments over the years and many lazy techs failed to adjust her correctly due to "frozen" adjustments f+r. After all of this the only thing that was actually frozen was the rear toe.


Update:

:)

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Before-

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I'm ready to have some trans service/mod done...98 LSC...is the JMOD and 1-2, 2-3 accumulator mods the same for 98 as for 93-97? anyone have part numbers for the pistons/springs?
 
Very inconsistent braking, and could start seeing some hot spots in the front rotors, so I decided to replace the front pads.
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Some bad spots in the pads, I thought that slotted rotors would help stop this from happening:
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But I also decided that it has been 5000 miles, so go ahead and rotate tires (front to back, directional tires). Rear are completely bald, they were okay 5000 miles ago, I guess with my driving style I need to rotate every 2500 miles?

Pull off the back wheels and find the inboard side of the rotors have grooves, it looked like "plenty" of pad material left, but forgot about the locator spring and how it is attached.
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Rear pad so worn down that the caliper piston falls out. I have only seen that before with the early MN12 calipers and late/FN10 thinner rotors. So I had the wrestle those back in so I could then screw them in.
 
nope, slotted rotors won't really help anything. just looks. (and less thermal mass so they heat faster and are more prone to cracking.)

those pads are trashed. what brand are they?
 
Bangster sounds like you didn't bed the pads in correctly
Bedding makes a huge difference in performance and how long they last.
 
I probably could have done better in bedding them in. They came pre heat cycled and scorched (the box within another box still smelled like a panic stop), and for the first 10,000 miles seemed okay. I also could take it easier on my brakes, I am harder on them on the street than most are on a road course.
 
My Mark VIII just sits in the driveway. Less than 100 miles in almost a year. Just lost interest. Actually it now belongs to my 16 year old son. Getting some new front suspension parts on it in a few weeks, and have to find out why the Antilock light is blinking. Also have to get a new set of front tires to match the size of the new rears so the dam traction control quits acting up. Loved my Mark at one time. Have actually had 7 of them. Just isn't the same since Ray passed on. Hopefully I can get a little passion back since it's my sons now.

Bought a 2015 Willy's Wheeler. That's my daily driver now, and I enjoy it way more than the Mark. We shall see.
 
Hi Folks,

I have not posted here in long time...so long I don't remember my username! At any rate my 93 Mark VIII needs new airbags in the rear. I put new ones in on the front a couple of years ago with the help of Jay in SC on this forum. I am looking at RockAuto and I have 4 choices Unity at $56, Westar @$71, Cardone @$ 94 and Arnot @108. Anybody have any experience with these airbags for the rear? I am certainly aware of the adage "you get what you pay for", that said I am leaning towards the Westar...any opinions would be welcome! ood to be "back"!
 
Well I was going to buy through american air suspension but if you get cheap ones let us know how they work maybe I'll just get them
 
Got stuff back from the powder coaters...

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I'm pretty sure a Big Fat Led Zep style LINKY tag is going in the rectangle area.

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-Scott

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Ordered Westar rear airbags from Rock Auto...for abt 140 bucks, will need to replace shocks because one of my Monroe 5965's broke loose at the top and I lost one of the pair of beautiful steel shock mounts that I bought and installed with Jay's help. What are my options with respect to rear schocks..Probably just go with the Monroe's but I am wondering what other choices I have. Research time:).
 
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I purchased another 97 last week. A Black on Black LSC with 62K original miles on it for $2,250 in Beverly Hills no less. The car runs great and the interior is near perfect and was in the same family since new. The body is straight but the paint has the clear peal. The niece who inherited it at 47K miles nine years ago didn't continue the maintenance that Aunty did. The front brakes were wobbly dangerous but I limped it home to San Diego. Today for $57 delivered via EBay, I installed new slotted rotors with ceramic pads that solved that problem. Fairly easy as detailed on this site, but you definitely need a caliper compressor - thank you Autozone for the loaner.

The car also has the shifter data error CEL problem with the hard shifting to match. I found that the 30amp fuse for it was blown. After I replaced that the P light now comes on when you start the car, however when I put it in drive it goes blank. I found a new Transmission Neutral Safety Switch for $20.29 via EBay as well and when that get's here hopefully the problem will be solved.

I'm trying to figure out why the tilt/telescopic switch does nothing. No clicks or movement at all.

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I was thinking of going with a bolt-on cowl scoop and just have it vinyl wrapped.

We'll see later down the road.

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I was wondering what you were going to do with the hood after seeing that monster intake. I had used that Accufab throttle body on my Cobra. Sometimes when I let off the throttle fast it would stick a little when I would get back on the throttle.
 

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