What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

jbelcourt

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AC work.....all......day....long. Got nowhere. Compressor is shot. Time for all new parts :Bang
 

chris2523

93 Mark VIII
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the 96 is down cylinder 8, and won't start.
car is dumping tons of fuel on start up, flooding out almost immediately.

bad ECT sensor. if you were wondering.

AC work.....all......day....long. Got nowhere. Compressor is shot. Time for all new parts :Bang

compressor on the 93 is locked up. so if you find a sweet warehouse full of AC compressors, i'll help you steal them lol
 
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mark0101

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Not a Mark VIII but the TC forum is dead and we plan on doing a retrofit on my brothers Gen I. Here are some pics. Not blinding anyone now and I have high beams. These are the morimotos Mini H1 6.0.

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Spree

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The last couple times I started my car (94 marl viii). There has been a beeping sound coming from behind the glove compartment but it's not the key in beep. It does three beeps then a pause. It does this 5 times then quits. Message center display, message center button pad lights and dash say's everything's ok. Does anyone know what this beeping sound could be? By the time I get the glove box down it stop's.
 

93mkviii

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your airbag light is not working to send a error code so it beeps instead. When the light isn't working it uses a beep to transfer the code.
 

jbelcourt

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your airbag light is not working to send a error code so it beeps instead. When the light isn't working it uses a beep to transfer the code.

^correct. I pulled the bulb because I've had an airbag light since I got the car and it did that. I immediately put the bulb back in, lol.
 

Spree

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Thanks guy's, that's exactly what I did. The light's been flashing 35 so I pulled the bulb. Any chance there's a easy fix for the code 35?
 

ONLYTONY

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I,ve been detailing my CE, getting ready for a wounded warrior car show on the 30th. Sold my 97, and one of my CE's in the last 2 weeks. Going to buy some fog/running lights today for it that I think will fit well. Pics later
 

markup97

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Scored some '03 Aviator heads ($225) and a set (one less than 4 months old and the other BRAND NEW) of Cobra headers for $150.
 

fordknutt

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Last week, L/H front air bag finally let go. Installed (2) Westar air struts. Appear to be working ok, but there were a couple of glitches during install. The lower bolt hole to mount strut to lower control arm is too small & had to be drilled out. Also, the solenoid valve tabs are half the size of FOMOCO solenoids & the cheap clips that come w/the struts do not prevent the valves from rotating & popping out of strut. Re-used FOMOCO retaining clips which help, but need something a little wider to prevent solenoids from rotating & disengaging from struts. So far, the FOMOCO clips are holding. Get "Check Air Ride Suspension" warning only after being @ highway speeds for 2-3 miles. Around town (slower speed) don't get the warning. Not sure if car is lowering @ speed (which is fine by me). Gonna hookup the GoPro & film the front to see if it is lowering or not @ hiway speed.
 

jbelcourt

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Completely rebuilt my AC yesterday. New compressor, condenser, accumulator, ac discharge line, variable orifice tube, flushed evaporator core with denatured alcohol. 85 degrees when I took the picture of the pressure reading while filling. By the time I left, 85% humidity and 80 degrees and the middle vent temp was in the 40's. Hopefully all is well and stays well! My first AC rebuild.

The real test will be today during work hours when it's 100 degrees or hotter lol.

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thaywood

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Okay. Another question. The T-Bird has been sitting for a couple of weeks since it won't shift out of 2nd gear. I haven't had the time to do anything to it yet. But I have ordered new 1-2 and 2-3 shift accumulator upgrade kits. I know the 1-2 accumulator was in need of the upgrade because it shifted hard into 2nd when it was doing okay. I'm hoping that there is something wrong with the 2-3 accumulator and that's why it's not shifting out of 2nd. I've read that the 2-3 accumulator spring can sometimes break and keep it from shifting. I hope that's it. The last time I pulled codes I got a code for input shaft and output shaft speed off by 1mph. That's strange. But the speedo was spot-on perfect. I am going to change the fluid/filter and install the accumulator piston upgrades when they arrive and pray that fixes it. If not, anybody need a 1997 T-Bird?
 

Bangster

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Not wanting to spend 150 bucks for it on eBay, from junk yards, or even when they came up on craigslist, I just haunted the you pull it places, signed up for alerts for Jag S Types and LSes.

Nearly all the Jags don't have the trunk popped, and when they did it was either missing the spare, or it is was a 16. Lincoln LSes usually missing them.

You also have to beat the yard to them, because they make stands out of them, which I don't get why they need to keep making more as the number of spots is not increasing...but anyways...

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Only had 4 serviceable lug nuts, which I need since it isn't tapered lugs. So now I have a 17x5 temp spare with a tire that has touched the ground but the painted on text on the tread is still there, it is aluminum. 13.00 bucks for rim/tire/4 lugs and the environmental fee.

If I can find someone to drill my Cobra rotors to the 5x4.25 bolt pattern I am now one step closer to better brakes.

I have a Volvo 17 inch spare but it barely clears the larger Mark VIII brakes (versus the Mustang GT dual piston calipers or MN12 standard brakes), the face of the wheel hits the face of the Cobra calipers due to the weird offset and contour of the face.
 

chris2523

93 Mark VIII
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yep, that LS spare clears the brakes. nice find.

the Dorman part number for the lug nuts you need is 611-117.
they are a much better piece than the stock LS lug nuts as well.

also, i just grabbed a die grinder and went to town on the 13" rotors until it cleared the lug studs.
not rocket science, and the rotor is hub centric so the holes are almost irrelevant.
 

Bangster

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I keep forgetting about the step in the hub center, that it is the larger Mustang size at the flange, and smaller away from it for the smaller MN12/FN10 hub. The rear is not that way, but I think I have an extra pair of hub centric rings for them.

I might practice on some old GT rotors that came with some dual piston calipers I bought. I told them not to send the rotors but they did, shipping wasn't real bad I just didn't want all that weight and poor shipping box.

The places that would do it (places that do rims) want way too much money to do them, 10x the price of the rotors, everyone else seems to think it is too hard, or not worth their time. I am not a machinist but know they wouldn't be blind drilling these holes, but once setup to do one hole that the other 19 are easy.

I gotta do something about the brakes, but I guess it would be nice if it was actually running at more than 50% once it heats up, it stops okay now, doesn't always go so well.

About the lugs, after seeing how badly beat up there were on the car, 2 were rounded completely, and one the lug erupted through the end. I mounted the tire to a Thunderbird and all 4 lug nuts tightened up completely, but the studs are longer on the MN12/FN10 than the looked like on the LS. Especially with a pretty thin wheel, not 1 inch thick hub like my aftermarket wheels. 611-117 seem like the shoulder that goes into the wheel is too long, the wheel isn't that thick, but the regular wheels seem to be.
 

Puchrider

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I discovered that I wasn't able to move the transmission out of park. I did some research and found out that the neon ballast likely caused fuse #32 to blow. I disconnected the neon, replaced the fuse, and it worked again.
 

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