What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

for the White Car;
rounded up the parts for my forward SRB (to frame) r/r job
-oem bushings,
-a 12'' tube of stainless steel- 1.05" o.d.; .863" i.d.; will cut as needed
and as a last resort, if plan A (reuse existing sleeves) and plan B (make and use new ss sleeves) both fail;
-a new Moog SRB kit.....
now I can either pay a shop to do it ($100) or do it in my 10x30 storage space on jack stands with no air
 
If you notice my pic, these have a projector lens on the tops, with 3 diodes inside, they're every bit as bright as my new Stinger flashlight

And yes, these put off more light than my halogens, and more to the purpose I changed them, they're the same color temp as my HIDs
 
todd2fst4u said:
I wouldn't bother considering this option. The Moog strut rod bushings are useless.
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I have the Moog strut rod bushings and they seem to be doing fine after abt 20K. I don't know. At any rate I have not done much lately on my car although a guy on the BMW 8 series forum sent me a diablosports performance chip. He says he remembers the day about ten yrs ago when he had his Mark VIII on a dyno and they programmed the chip. So...I have "new" chip w/o documentation nor do I have a clue how to install it! Any suggestions, like RFM, would be helpful. Where do a put the little devil thingy whatchamacallit PCB!

I stopped by the CLT Pull-A-part today. There is a white on black 98 LSC. Because my second and current HVAC unit is on the fritz, I think. The usual things are gone from this Mark, drivers side door handle, air shocks front and rear, headlamps, drivers seat was busted...If any of you gents are needing a part I can check on it for you when I trek back there to pull the HVAC controller.

BTW, Thaywood, I have MaCpherson brake shocks on my rear and I am thinking of putting Brembo caliper struts on the front...ha ha...glad to see ya all have not lost your sense of ridiculousness and levity! TIA for any comments/advise...etc! Ya'all Rock! TGIF too!
 
Look above your brake pedal and you'll see the ECU , remove black clip from the bottom and pull it toward the seat and down, chip goes in the slot on the side. Use some Gorilla tape over it to secure it in that slot. Enjoy

On the W/B 98, I'm looking for a good condition fuse cover for the driver dash compartment. I don't want it if the clips are gone that hold it in
TIA
 
95 new wheels.jpg95 ch wheels.jpgI got around to changing the front air shocks on my 95. Nice new ford's did away with the klunk Arnutts created. 1/2 way there, so I put on the new tires and rims, that been hanging around for quite some time. Just a few more things, and wife gets her back. Oh yea, I got some nice Arnutts that don't leak for sale if you don't mind klunking noise. Very low milage.

95 new wheels.jpg


95 ch wheels.jpg
 
New rear UCA sub-frame bushing installed on the passenger side. It was COMPLETELY shot out (ran out of time on doing the driver side....it's not bad anyway, I just wanted to do both).

Also installed my stainless steel rear shock mounts (thanks Jay) and some Sensa-trac shocks.
 
double post, sorta:
today I removed the factory SRBs at the subframe; I pulled out the bushings and sleeves very clean;
I know a few guys custom make replacement slip joint sleeves, per DLFs design (highly labor intensive) and charge well over $100 for a pair (4 pcs);Jay charges $135, DLF charged about the same or more, and Spree basically gave his away (traded for used parts).
---
I'm thinking of taking these to a local metal fabricator and seeing what they'll charge to duplicate the factory sleeves. Do they HAVE to be stainless steel? what are the oem's made from? seems like alum/alloy? Any predictions on what a shop will charge to make a batch of 20 or 30 pairs? If they're not much ($30-$40) I'll pass em along at cost
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20140426_185031[1].jpg

20140426_184722[1].jpg


20140426_185031[1].jpg
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
Not cool...
Click to expand...
what's not cool? competition? I'm just wondering if a fabrication shop can whip out a box of em in a short amount of time- probably not as I'm sure somebody else has already gone down this road;
---
I wouldn't get stainless, so they'd be subject to rusting again in another 10-15 years (up north)...imo the sleeves don't need to outlive the car; one of the first things I noticed when I got a mark VIII is that a lot of parts are nearly impossible to get- Mark VIII owners usually don't own these cars b/c we have a big pile of cash to throw at the car
 
dnsherrill said:
what's not cool? competition? I'm just wondering if a fabrication shop can whip out a box of em in a short amount of time- probably not as I'm sure somebody else has already gone down this road;
---
I wouldn't get stainless, so they'd be subject to rusting again in another 10-15 years (up north)...imo the sleeves don't need to outlive the car; one of the first things I noticed when I got a mark VIII is that a lot of parts are nearly impossible to get- Mark VIII owners usually don't own these cars b/c we have a big pile of cash to throw at the car
Click to expand...

Like I told you on Facebook, it's not cool to ask for and take advice and help on something and then do something like that with it.
 
dnsherrill said:
double post, sorta:
today I removed the factory SRBs at the subframe; I pulled out the bushings and sleeves very clean;
I know a few guys custom make replacement slip joint sleeves, per DLFs design (highly labor intensive) and charge well over $100 for a pair (4 pcs);Jay charges $135, DLF charged about the same or more, and Spree basically gave his away (traded for used parts).
---
I'm thinking of taking these to a local metal fabricator and seeing what they'll charge to duplicate the factory sleeves. Do they HAVE to be stainless steel? what are the oem's made from? seems like alum/alloy? Any predictions on what a shop will charge to make a batch of 20 or 30 pairs? If they're not much ($30-$40) I'll pass em along at cost
View attachment 828467170
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View attachment 828467171
Click to expand...

Can't believe you got them out, and they came apart....Good Job!
 
IMG_20140430_171246234.jpg


Time to hunt down those posts for Instrument cluster LED conversions..

Anyone have the size numbers for internal handle bulbs and lock/window buttons? I want them blue not sea green

I know someone found a film for the info display to make it Blue.
 
Stuff

[A
TTACH=CONFIG]828467318[/ATTACH]vac tray.jpg
Just getting some stuff ready to install weather permitting. Nice trays Thanks Bruce/ Carlos

crossover pipe.jpg


vac tray.jpg
 
FALCON.jpg

I was playing with the 95 and went for a little walk. As I looked up I saw a falcon nesting in a tree. It looked happy.

FALCON.jpg
 
Fill it up, your not doing your fuel pump any good, check your engine, and dang, what is getting to 2.5 degrees that an infrared thermometer can read? I have one of those stick style ambient thermometers and a little less than 40 degrees, I think 38 degrees is what I see, which does fine in 110 degrees.
 
Bought a mess of NFC stickers, and made one for the car, that when I tap my phone it turns on Bluetooth, connects to the Bluetooth receiver in the car, open Pandora, turns off wifi, sets normal ringer/volume profile, lowers brightness and turns screen timeout to 15 seconds. Streamlines the process as I hate taking more than a few seconds to get going. A second one is going in for church, ringers off, check in via foursquare, turn display way down, it will have a return/second function to undo all of that.
 
Doesn't add as many horsepower as a VTec, Cobra, or V8 sticker, but is slightly more functional.
 
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