What did you do to your LS today?

waggs said:
Pioneer maxtrax...wish it had xm
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I wished it had dim illumination and stayed on until the door is opened. The former is why it's on sale and the latter is I supposed only the OEM can do that.
Hit a deer too last night. It's hunting season in Kansas now.
 
Installed the rear coilovers. The big assumption of all things being equal, should be seeing about a 2" drop. Will tackle the fronts next weekend.
 
lincolnelite said:
I wished it had dim illumination and stayed on until the door is opened. The former is why it's on sale and the latter is I supposed only the OEM can do that.
Hit a deer too last night. It's hunting season in Kansas now.
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On the stereo staying on until the door is open, either you have a wire in the wrong place or that specific stereo doesn't use the switched power to operate. I just put a new Alpine CDC-123 (well, I bought it new a couple years ago and it's just sat in a box until a month or two ago) in my Silverado which also has the key-off accessory power, and the stereo stays on after the key is shut for either 20 minutes or until the door is opened. For the dim illumination, same thing. This is one thing my Alpine doesn't do is dim with the dimmer switch, so when I find some time I'll be pulling it back out to check the wiring harness to figure out what's up.
 
Telco said:
On the stereo staying on until the door is open, either you have a wire in the wrong place or that specific stereo doesn't use the switched power to operate. I just put a new Alpine CDC-123 (well, I bought it new a couple years ago and it's just sat in a box until a month or two ago) in my Silverado which also has the key-off accessory power, and the stereo stays on after the key is shut for either 20 minutes or until the door is opened. For the dim illumination, same thing. This is one thing my Alpine doesn't do is dim with the dimmer switch, so when I find some time I'll be pulling it back out to check the wiring harness to figure out what's up.
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Depends on where the timer is. In the LS, the factory HU controls the delay.
 
Telco said:
On the stereo staying on until the door is open, either you have a wire in the wrong place or that specific stereo doesn't use the switched power to operate. ....
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Nope.
The factory radio uses info from the CAN bus to decide when to turn off. Instead of a physical signal, it uses data. Note that there is another retained power signal that you can tap into. It goes to the power windows and the moon roof. It does not go to the factory head unit. The exception is the THX nav. The physical retained power signal does run to it.
 
LS4me said:
Depends on where the timer is. In the LS, the factory HU controls the delay.
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Does the HU control the delay for the entire car or does each component like the windows control its own delay? Makes no sense that they'd do it that way. Still, if this is the case then there are plans on the net for a circuit that will let one add a timer circuit to the stereo's switched power line.
 
Telco said:
Does the HU control the delay for the entire car or does each component like the windows control its own delay? Makes no sense that they'd do it that way. Still, if this is the case then there are plans on the net for a circuit that will let one add a timer circuit to the stereo's switched power line.
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Each component (headunit, REM, DDM) controls it's own delay. It's all synchronized by the CAN bus. Maybe it makes no sense to you, but it saves some wires and the microcontrollers were already there anyway.
 
joegr said:
Nope.
The factory radio uses info from the CAN bus to decide when to turn off. Instead of a physical signal, it uses data. Note that there is another retained power signal that you can tap into. It goes to the power windows and the moon roof. It does not go to the factory head unit. The exception is the THX nav. The physical retained power signal does run to it.
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That's Gen2, correct? I know on my (daughter's) Gen1 it's in the radio. I had to tap a speaker wire to keep the amp powered for the delay.
 
It actually doesn't, since it would be far simpler to just route the power lines to delay-capable accessories through a single relay that provides power when the car is off. The power lines are run anyway, they all start at a common fuse panel (or one of 2-3 fuse panels) and this eliminates the need to create programming to control this.
 
So guys ive got a question, a friend of mine has a shop and has an 03 LS in there, its totaled but the headlights are in nice shape. I would love to buy them if they are the OEM HIDS because my stock halogens are not very bright. Keep in mind i know nothing about lights but how do i tell if they are the xenons or the halogens? I didnt get the chance to look at them off the car but i will soon, so what do i look for? Again i know next to nothing about lights!
 
Telco said:
On the stereo staying on until the door is open, either you have a wire in the wrong place or that specific stereo doesn't use the switched power to operate. I just put a new Alpine CDC-123 (well, I bought it new a couple years ago and it's just sat in a box until a month or two ago) in my Silverado which also has the key-off accessory power, and the stereo stays on after the key is shut for either 20 minutes or until the door is opened. For the dim illumination, same thing. This is one thing my Alpine doesn't do is dim with the dimmer switch, so when I find some time I'll be pulling it back out to check the wiring harness to figure out what's up.
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...899049.-2207520000.1384836553.&type=3&theater

I used a wire harness adapter to connect the wires, the only wires that weren't used were the illumination, adjustable dim, dim ground and the remote amp. I was hoping that it will work just like the stock radio but the red (12v) and yellow (12v acc) only works when the key is still in the ignition. This is a GEN1 with no premium sound, the premium sound needs a 3 plug harness adapter for the subwoofers and extra speakers.
 
Telco said:
It actually doesn't, since it would be far simpler to just route the power lines to delay-capable accessories through a single relay that provides power when the car is off. The power lines are run anyway, they all start at a common fuse panel (or one of 2-3 fuse panels) and this eliminates the need to create programming to control this.
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All these parts have to have a constant power line. They don't have and don't have to have a switched line if they can just get the info to turn on and off from the bus. It does save some wiring.
 
captainkneecap said:
So guys ive got a question, a friend of mine has a shop and has an 03 LS in there, its totaled but the headlights are in nice shape. I would love to buy them if they are the OEM HIDS because my stock halogens are not very bright. Keep in mind i know nothing about lights but how do i tell if they are the xenons or the halogens? I didnt get the chance to look at them off the car but i will soon, so what do i look for? Again i know next to nothing about lights!
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There will be yellow high voltage waring stickers on the top of them. There are other things too, but the stickers are most obvious. Some connector modification will be required to get them to plug into your car.
 
captainkneecap said:
So guys ive got a question, a friend of mine has a shop and has an 03 LS in there, its totaled but the headlights are in nice shape. I would love to buy them if they are the OEM HIDS because my stock halogens are not very bright. Keep in mind i know nothing about lights but how do i tell if they are the xenons or the halogens? I didnt get the chance to look at them off the car but i will soon, so what do i look for? Again i know next to nothing about lights!
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If you just want brighter lights, search for the how-to by Mr. Howie on how to use high beam bulbs in the low beam sockets. It is really easy and works very well.
 
The HID lights have a diamond shaped center piece and the regular ones have a smooth 1/2 sphere.
 
Installed driver rear door lock actuator and window regulator. Both work perfectly now. Lock mechanism courtesy 02ls194. The whole job took 30 minutes from opening the door to closing it. I like how Lincoln put all the friction retainers along the outside of the door panel and used screws accessible from outside the panel for the interior mounting points, it made the job easier. Also liked how the door panel pulls straight out as opposed to having to pull the panel loose then pull it up over the edge of the door. Starting on the rear links now.
 
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