Track Time

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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Ok, I didn't do as well as i'de hoped to... but i'm partly blaming this to terrible tires that I have. I got some cheap used ones put on. But if anyone can decipher this i'd be all ears. I'm also kinda new to racing. That being said:

First run : TC off spun all the way through 1st and into 2nd some
R/T .623
60' 2.966
330 7.649
1/8 11.237
MPH 71.22
1000 14.216
1/4 16.722

Ok so i was pissed about the traction and swore to return with better tires.... I did two more runs with the TC on

TC ON Manually Shifted (just punching it from a stand still)
R/T .412
60' 2.379
330 6.723
1/8 10.208
MPH 71.61
1000 13.636
1/4 15.636
MPH 91.24

3rd final run TC on just punched it from idle in D
R/T .299
60' 2.312
330 6.500
1/8 9.898
MPH 73.05
1000 12.792
1/4 15.255
MPH 93.24

No Spray btw, I guess the only nice thing I can say about it is that I improved every run. I am a novice racer. No check engine lights or anything. I am pretty dissapointed in my times, I thought I raced well but I guess somethings a miss with my car! Any positive input would be greatly appreciated.
 
a buddy of mine used to hacve a 93.. he took it to the track. and ran consistant 15.1's .. od off, tc off, everything off, manual shifting, big burnout

his girlfriend got in the car and put it in drive ( everything still off ) .. 14.9. with no burnout.

who knows what the hell that was all about...

hopefully someone will be able to help you get into the 14's
 
Traction starts with the tires. Obviously your problem with a 2.9 sixty foot.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
Ok, I didn't do as well as i'de hoped to... but i'm partly blaming this to terrible tires that I have. I got some cheap used ones put on. But if anyone can decipher this i'd be all ears. I'm also kinda new to racing. That being said:

First run : TC off spun all the way through 1st and into 2nd some
R/T .623
60' 2.966
330 7.649
1/8 11.237
MPH 71.22
1000 14.216
1/4 16.722

Ok so i was pissed about the traction and swore to return with better tires.... I did two more runs with the TC on

TC ON Manually Shifted (just punching it from a stand still)
R/T .412
60' 2.379
330 6.723
1/8 10.208
MPH 71.61
1000 13.636
1/4 15.636
MPH 91.24

3rd final run TC on just punched it from idle in D
R/T .299
60' 2.312
330 6.500
1/8 9.898
MPH 73.05
1000 12.792
1/4 15.255
MPH 93.24

No Spray btw, I guess the only nice thing I can say about it is that I improved every run. I am a novice racer. No check engine lights or anything. I am pretty dissapointed in my times, I thought I raced well but I guess somethings a miss with my car! Any positive input would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


only 93mph in the 1/4? thats not good it must be your tires
i mean my stock continental does 15.5 at 94mph
 
i dunno that's what really confused me too? i mean i didn't load up on the converter at all i just punched it from a stand still from dead idle. i thought 2.3 wasn't bad either but what would be causing the crappy quarter time with a decent 60 foot? I guess a dyno will revail more.

i'm trying to get pretty nice with this obd-1 code reader I have. I don't have a check engine light but I picked up a code with the engine off - the engine run procedure is a bit confusing for me, i have to do more reading. But i'm thinking the code I got was because my chip is on there - i don't know if that will throw the scan tool off or not.

If im reading the blinking lights right its 511 and my book says "511 Electronic Control Assembly (eca) problem - Read Only Memory (ROM) test failure.

Then after it flashes that code it does something that says its all good the 1 or 11 flash. Does anyone have the actron code scanner? its real ancient technology... ugh its like complicated morse code to figure out whats wrong.

I tried running it while the car was on, it has you do stuff like turn the wheel, hit the brake and toggle the od off and on. then i guess hit wot to start the test? does that sound right if i make it out right from the directions.
 
sorry forgot it was 90.28... that first run was terrible soo much spinning. but even still i dont know what to say because if my 60 foot as 2.3, why are all my numbers so low? I know theres a lot more to racing than just punching it at the right moment but cmonnn i think if i came off the line half way decent i would have finished as well.

I guess I have to start diagnosing stuff, I guess the code reader is a start... But is it normal for the car not to throw a check engine light if its not running right? I figured my car was fine if no light. Makes me worried that its not up to snuff with these bum times.

The car feels strong to me, so ill just have to get some nice street slicks and see how it goes from there.

The only things I can say bad about the car is that sometimes at WOT ill get the rotton egg smell but not to terrible, im guessing a cat is on its way out but its not all the time. And also at start up it has a slight stumble. I could be chasing ghosts here.

new waterpump, new 02's, new plugs, wires, coils, new tstat, fuelpump, fuel filter... I know the p/o did meticulous maintainance up till 108K (it has 120k) stuff like PCV etc stuff on the factory to do list I have all the paperwork. I seafoamed it twice (not sure if it even did anything but smoke up everything). So I really can really rule out a lot of things that would be robbing me of hp. But that has yet to be seen once I get on the dyno, from the curve should be able to come up with whats going on. If anyone has any ideas feel free...
 
To clarify 2.3 isn't good but fairly common for the VIII as its kinda a tank. Your time should be better.

Trap is definately low.
 
correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't higher 60' times mean higher trap speed? which is not the case here. I mean you have everything up to tune, 4.10 gears and a tune to go along with it. That should be aleast 14.5. It might be your IMRC.
 
wow that many mods and only 15.2 with those mods i would think low 14 or high 13's. theres somthing wrong...
 
mark0101 said:
correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't higher 60' times mean higher trap speed? which is not the case here. I mean you have everything up to tune, 4.10 gears and a tune to go along with it. That should be aleast 14.5. It might be your IMRC.
Click to expand...

higher 60's means it took longer to cover that distance i think, if you do a 60 in a 2.5 it took you 2.5 secs to cover 60 feet
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
But i'm thinking the code I got was because my chip is on there - .
Click to expand...


EEC IV PCM will not store, nor display a trouble code with the chip in place.

The code you received is probably the one that says "PCM failure", and it's indeed due to the chip being in place.

you'll have to drive it for a while "without" the chip if you want to see and retreive trouble codes.
 
mark0101 said:
correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't higher 60' times mean higher trap speed? which is not the case here. I mean you have everything up to tune, 4.10 gears and a tune to go along with it. That should be aleast 14.5. It might be your IMRC.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. Often a quick 60' will get you a lower trap. Leaving the line really slow will too....even lower.

Sometimes some spinning can launch the car out for a faster trap speed but the spinning will not get the best 60' or overall time.

We are talking once a car is somewhat consistant this can be true.
 
I am with Driller what are you using for a rear tire.
Your ET comes at the start of the track.
Trap speed comes from horsepower.
If your blowing your tires off all over the place your going to have time slips like the first one.
When TC is on it will slow you down do a search.
Find some tires. turn TC off.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
My cars faster than yours... that should keep you busy.
Click to expand...

HA!

My STONE STOCK 2nd Gen, with NO LMS goodies, no gears, no endless list of mods would have beaten your MODDED TO THE HILT 1st gen by .04 at the finish line.

Since you felt the need to say "your car is faster than mine" when it clearly ISNT.

But.. thanks for going to the track and proving it!

Your best RT was .299
My "average RT from 5000 passes is .059

That means that you would have given me almost a 3 car headstart, so I would have beaten you by OVER 3 car lengths...
taking your BEST ET and BEST RT vs my "BEST ET" and "average RT".

Now you need to work on getting your N/A ET's down to where they are supposed to be.

With your mods, your car SHOULD make a 13.99 pass relatively easy.

your only about 15 car lengths behind where you should be at at your current mod level.

Need to visually verify your IMRC's are opening and closing.
ALSO need to verify you have adequate fuel pressure.

Why didn't you get a nitrous pass in?

With a 150 shot a 15.2 should be very low 14 or a high 13 on a STOCK mark 8.



wanna race that turd for some cash?
heads up.. spray if you like?
 
93mkviii said:
wow that many mods and only 15.2 with those mods i would think low 14 or high 13's. theres somthing wrong...
Click to expand...

+1 and it's not a "simple" IMRC problem..might lose .3-.4 to a bad IMRC..
not 1.5 seconds.

Something definatley is screwy at the circle K.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
sorry forgot it was 90.28... that first run was terrible soo much spinning.

The car feels strong to me, so ill just have to get some nice street slicks and see how it goes from there.

The only things I can say bad about the car is that sometimes at WOT ill get the rotton egg smell but not to terrible, im guessing a cat is on its way out but its not all the time.


new waterpump, new 02's, new plugs, wires, coils, new tstat, fuelpump, fuel filter... I know the p/o did meticulous maintainance up till 108K (it has 120k) stuff like PCV etc stuff on the factory to do list I have all the paperwork. I seafoamed it twice (not sure if it even did anything but smoke up everything..
Click to expand...

When you spin at the launch is artificially "increases" your trap speed, not decreases it.

And as for "the car feels strong"?

it's been seen over and over and over that the "butt-0-meter" dyno will LIE to you 9 times out of 10, which is why "going to the track" is a very VERY useful tool to evaluate IF your mods are working together, or against each other.

But.. since you have "zero baseline" data to go from, it's literally IMPOSSIBLE to tell you "where you zigged when you should have zagged".

If I were you, I'd go back to the track... and pull the chip and see what happens to your ET.
If your car with the chip is running 15.2 then without the chip it SHOULD be 15.6's or 15.80's..

That would be my first step in evaluating what is going on with the car.

If you have a melted or clogged cat, it could easily slow your car down in JUST THIS MANNER. But.. proving that scenario is going to be costly.
If you go to an exhaust shop, they can test your cats by drilling a hole BEFORE and AFTER the cat and measuring the pressure differences.

If I had to guess... you've got a chip problem or a clogged/melted cat.

Dont get discouraged because "MY CAR IS FASTER"..( you knew that was coming) HAHA.. sorry.

I'll help in any way I can, but your gonna have to "return to the track".
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
Ok, I didn't do as well as i'de hoped to... but i'm partly blaming this to terrible tires that I have. I got some cheap used ones put on. .
Click to expand...

I got my best 60 foot on street tires ( you dont need drag radials or slicks YET)

The tires I used got me down to a 2.09 60 foot with a stock torque converter.

They are Cooper "Zeon" ZPT's, I got 245-50-16s and they were relatively cheap.
DO NOT LET THEM SELL YOU Cooper 2XS's.. get the "ZPT"s.
you might have to order then online, because Discount Tire replaced the ZPT series with the 2XS series.

Cutting your 2.3 60 foot down to a 2.0 is going to be well over a half a second improvement in 1/4 ET.

Every .1 you pick up in the 60 is worth .2 on the "big end".
the first 60 feet is the MOST important "FEET" at the track, the following 600 feet is more important than the "last 660 feet" which is "meaningless".

Check your 1/8th mile MPH against your 1/4 MPH and you'll instantly "see why" the last 660 feet is useless.
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Didn't see that you were leaving the TC on. That's like riding the brake after launch for awhile.
Click to expand...

+1

buddy of mine picked up .3 in the 60' by turning his TC off.

that alone would drop Abe into the 14.90 range.. IF traction was his limiting factor.
 
when looking at the imrcs after 4k what will I see? I really appreciate the input, even from you tommy! Thanks! It's twenty bucks to get a pull on the dyno, I'll do that pull the chip, get some codes... Hit up an exhaust shop to test the cats. Some better rears will be on the way as well.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
1.5 coilover drop.
Click to expand...

a guy on the other mark 8 board suffered some "crappy 60 foot" times AFTER swapping from air ride over to coils.

the coils add weight to the car as well..

but without a baseline, it's really hard to say what is slowing his car down..
COULD be a combination of things...

Coils, crappy tires, stuck IMRC's, clogged cats.

Yea.. that'll turn a 13.99 car into a 15 second turd.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
even from you tommy!.
Click to expand...

meh, take the good with the bad bro
As abrasive as I can be, I am willing to help you out.. no worries.

just gotta get past my TWISTED sense of humor, which you seem to have "come to terms with nicely" (lol)
 
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