Overheat or Running HOT

96_Lincoln_LSC

96_Lincoln_LSC

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here is whats has been done so far, New radiator hoses.. BTW good luck finding Factory hose's for this now as no aftermarket supplies them, Google no longer lists the hoses either and Ford lincoln dealers across the US no longer stock them or list another part number for them...

I took my hoses to a local shop who sells Good year hose's and was able to match the bends perfectly to different hoses and was a little longer then the orginal, so a little nip here tuck there and Im back on the road. now secondary to this, my car is still overheating running hot. I have removed the T-stat, flushed water from my hose and forces it to backfill into the resivoir bottle till no more air emerged.
crank up the car and turn on the AC to max, car idles no issues, runs perfectly fine ice cold AC too. car temp never exceeds middle even with t-stat removed. Cooling fan comes on as soon as temp gets to the middle of the gauge. or when the AC is on. tested both ways. so we are confident the Cooling fan is not issue. also tested coolant for hydrocarbon (exhaust Gases indicating blown gasket or head cracked- This is negative ((good not blown head)) ). ran the car over 1 hour with out incident (idle AC on) no increase in temp. Run the car to work this morning and sure enough if i didnt turn the heater on full blast it would have spiked it again. we even pressurized the system to 15 PSI ran the car and then burped it to see if there was a trapped bubble in it, it still seems to be getting to warm. also replaced water pump 6 months ago, radiator is 3 years old, and checked temp on radiator both tanks evenly heated as well as the very top of the radiator and bottom as well. We figure its working correctly and not clogged.

I am at a loss as to where else i need to look. is it possible there is still air trapped?how to get it to burp since there is no t-stat in it. should i remove the lines to the heatercore and try blowing water through that to insure its not partially blocked or air trapped in it?

it acts like there is an air pocket that superheats forcing water back out as it steams up...:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
I was going to say Water pump... Maybe the radiator is clogged by chance... Since its not a cracked head and you have trouble shot it so much... My 97 did the same thing... and the water pump was bad... wasn't leaking or making noise either... Has the car been sitting?
 
nope car has been in use every day, i check radiator, top and bottom, and both side tanks
all evenly heated. all hoses heated including the hoses at the rear of the motor they are the ones feeding the heatercore and BTW the heat on this mornings drive was hot...
if it has an air pocket where in the hell would it be? it has to be an area in the block due to it superheating converting to steam and building pressure. wonder if i pull the waterpump again and force water through the ports if i would notice a difference.
 
How are you rating the overheat? Stock dash gauge, or is she blowing coolant out when overheating? Do you have OBD11 code reader that can show live data and watch coolant temp? Everytime i pull something coolant related on red car I think that sucker is bled good. Take it around block overheat and have to bleed again and all good.
 
unfortunatly, its has been bubbled a few times in the last 48 hours, i drove it to work today 42 miles 1 way it got hot ( ergo put heat on max and roast my feet) yes it was a hot trip but kept the car from bubbling again., i hope to go out to the car find that there is a lot of room in the overflow bottle because it worked the air bubble out but I fear its more then this.
 
+1 on knowing the exact temp. I have seen Ford gauges get bad and read wrong. If you can hook a scanner/data logger to the OBDII port and get an actual temp reading that may help. Should stay around 210.

My second guess would be water pump. I would also reinstall the thermostat. You see the water cant dissipate heat fast enough through the radiator without it slowing down for a bit. They kinda "cycle". Water in the engine gets hot, thermostat opens and allows the cooler water from the radiator into the motor, thermostat closes because the water is cooler and that gives the hot water in the radiator time to dissipate the heat for the next open cycle of the thermostat.


As for burping, my white Mark was a PITA to burp. I had to jack the nose up to make sure the crossover tube was WAY higher than the rest of the cooling system and then fill from the crossover cap. If I didn't do it that way I would get an air pocket in the system.


Last but not least, you may have a blown headgasket. We have had several cars in the shop that could idle all day with the AC on with no issues. Test the coolant for headgasket issues and never get a fluid color change to indicate one. As soon as the car goes a couple miles down the road it starts to overheat. Pop a head off and we were able to see visable gasket damage. Its happened more than once and I sure hope its not your problem but there is a possibility.
 
If the head gasket was bad, if i pull the plugs i should notice 1 or 2 of them super clean right? it would make sense to see clean plugs if coolant is being crossed into the cylinder right? Second, I will have to try that method of jacking up the nose and see if any more bubbles pop. I hope its not a head either. car runs smooth. really need to hammer this out.. the T-stat will go back in but to troubleshoot this i used just water and removed the T-stat. if its fine and i have to replace the coolant ill gladly go though the process again of burping the system.
I did state, i was able to presurize the system with 15 PSI from the over flow bottle, it maintained this pressure without bubbling up after pressure was released. and the temp didnt climb until it was actually driven.
now this mornings ride went well excpet it did get a bit hot until i put the Heater on Full blast the temps dropped again. this was a 42 mile run mostly highway but some back road. i will be venturing out in 2 hours for run 2 home. i just checked after the car sat cooling off for 4 hours and i didnt loose any fluid i was hoping to see a lower volume in the bottle to show an air pocket had released but no such luck. I will keep posting here as i find new details..

If you or anyone else can think of something to check or try to ensure there is no air trapped then please let me know..
Im thinking of add an old prestone flush valve to the heater core lines at the back of the car to make sure i have proper flow from back to front. to me it seems like there might be a pocket of air trapped in the longblock. and doesnt seem to want to move. :(
 
Stupid question but I will ask anyway, is there anything behind your grill opening that may obstruct flow? Marks turn off their fans at highway speeds (if I remember correctly) and if there is a blockage behind the grill or lower valance then that may cause an issue.

Just spit-balling ideas in hopes of getting your car back to normal.
 
there are no stupid questions except for the ones not asked :P I did verify not blocked and there is a little dirt on the front of the radiator in between the condensor and radiator i will clean thats out soon but i dont think its enough to hamper the cooling effect. even at highway speeds.. and the funnier part to this is that whent he heater in the car is on high it cools the system enough to actually drop the vehicles overall temp enough to keep it from boiling over.
 
OK ran home with the car, i checked the level in the resivoir bottle before starting out. i had an hour drive and 42 miles to go. it was running very cool most of the way i noticed it creeping up a bit turned on the heat it seems to act as if it was cycling, hotter then cooler then hotter then cool. it then got to the point i turned the AC on and the car actually dropped in temp i assume due to the fan staying on all the time but it never got to the highest level in the temp gauge.

Got it home let it sit for 3 hours and it is pretty chilly up here for the weekend.. opened the overflow, and the level was still the same as it was prior to the trip.
so far so good. i decided to take out the HID lenses and give them a good cleaning.. ill post pic in the what did you do to your mark today thread.. :P
 
Ya know earlier I read your first post too fast and thought you had replaced the radiator. I see you say it has even temperature across it and both tanks. That shouldn't be the case. It should be warmer on the top and passenger sides. Even temperature suggests you have a partially clogged radiator. Turning on the AC (which turns the fan on at highway speeds) kinda enforces this thought.

If its a Murray or a Spectra radiator I would bet its clogged. The only radiators that seem to last are Motorcraft and the updated design AC Delcos.
 
LaserSVT said:
Ya know earlier I read your first post too fast and thought you had replaced the radiator. I see you say it has even temperature across it and both tanks. That shouldn't be the case. It should be warmer on the top and passenger sides. Even temperature suggests you have a partially clogged radiator. Turning on the AC (which turns the fan on at highway speeds) kinda enforces this thought.

If its a Murray or a Spectra radiator I would bet its clogged. The only radiators that seem to last are Motorcraft and the updated design AC Delcos.
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Radiator is less then 4 years old..
Seems to be constant temp across it all as there is no T-Stat its constantly pushing through the entire unit all the time.. not allowing it to cool off until the thermostat opens again.
Still keeping fingers crossed.. will see how it does when the temp goes up here again.. the last few days high 80's now today low 70's tonight into the 60's
 
I don't know if you checked your radiator fan...but they are supposed to be a two speed...and usually the 2ne speed which is supposed to come on when you turn on the a/c messes up...but try changing you fan...maybe its that....im not sure guys im just trying to help...I could be wrong. I have a fan if you need it.
 
Ummm I saw earlier the gauge might be a culprit, but here is something that is always overlooked. How about changing your temp sensor itself? I'm sure it's a negative coefficient thermistor so as temp rises resistance goes down and sends a reading to the gauge and gauge goes up.
 
1sik32valve said:
Ummm I saw earlier the gauge might be a culprit, but here is something that is always overlooked. How about changing your temp sensor itself? I'm sure it's a negative coefficient thermistor so as temp rises resistance goes down and sends a reading to the gauge and gauge goes up.
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the time before when i thought i had an issue i replaced this.. its only 2 years old.. and up till now its been fine reading properly. and when the car says hot, its HOT. :P
 
96_Lincoln_LSC said:
the time before when i thought i had an issue i replaced this.. its only 2 years old.. and up till now its been fine reading properly. and when the car says hot, its HOT. :P
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Okie dokie just wanting to see if that was done. Plus things for the stupidest reasons things do go bad faster than you would expect them too just cause something was replaced doesnt mean it didn't go bad. Just my $.02
 
You may see different results with the correct t-stat in place.

A lot of times if the T-stat is removed, the water pump circulates the coolant thru the radiator too fast to allow proper cooling.
 
you may have mentioned this and I missed it, but is the gauge going above the "N" ? Have you gotten a red 'idiot' warning light?
---
For awhile I was concerned that mine (the brown 96) was running warmer than it should in the winter time. It would get to and stay up around the 'O'. My drive habits are mostly cruising highway around 70mph with some traffic jams. The gauge is 115 to 215 i believe, so at 'R' to 'O' is around 190....normal
Now that I've used the a/c a few times, it stays cooler than without, which I don't understand.
---
on my white 96 (which I've yet to drive with frequency) I've noticed the radi fan shift from normal to high speed, I don't think I've witnessed the speed shift on my brown 96. I have two extra 96 VRCM's thankfully :cool:
 
the drop in temp is based on the Fan going full tilt and forcing the temp to drop i did experience this.. my system is varible and has gone through the ranges..
I think i may have all the air out of the system and i am going to run a rad flush just for the hell of it tonight and then drain the system and replace t-stat and refill with Antifreeze, all this while on car ramps with as much front end lift as i can get while refilling the system hopefully that will eliminate the majority of air in the system and allow me to burp it effectively.
 
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this yet, but without the thermostat in place, you're allowing hot coolant to recirculate through the engine via the bypass hose. The thermostat blocks off the bypass as it opens. I would advise against running the engine until you've installed a good thermostat.
 
racecougar said:
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this yet, but without the thermostat in place, you're allowing hot coolant to recirculate through the engine via the bypass hose. The thermostat blocks off the bypass as it opens. I would advise against running the engine until you've installed a good thermostat.
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I have put in a new thermostat, the car runs just fin without the AC on, as soon as i turn it on, the temps climb even with the car in motion about 80 MPH... i turn the heater on full blast and the temps drop enough to keep it from boiling over. i did replace the antifreeze last night and the thermostat. cleaned everything up and no leaks... drove it to work this morning, got hot turned heater on full blast and brought the temp right down.
Im really kinda running out of ideas.. i wonder if maybe the waterpump is in question now after the inital boil over.?
 
OK NEW Symptom, If I'm driving normal, the car will eventually get hot. if i drop it out of overdrive forcing the RPM's to increase to about 3K the temp drops almost instantly. to middle of gauge. will stay for a little then climb back up if i turn on overdrive. seems that cruising at 2k is not circulating enough coolant to keep it cool. could this be an air pocket behind the water pump causing this issue? I guess its almost worth removing the water pump to verify this. but dont want to waste more time if you all think this is normal behavior. and I just need to give this more time to burp it up.
 
Exactly what thermostat did you install? Did it look like the one on the left or the one on the right?

tstatcomparo1.jpg

tstatcomparo2.jpg
 
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