My sub build

[FrankLS]

So finally, finals at school are over so wanted to do some updating on this thread.

I used to have the voltmeter just laying in the cupholder, but i finally found a great, out of sight, spot for it.

-Used to have nothing but junk in the slide out ash tray.

-Take out the junk and the inner tray, and you end up with just enough room for the voltmeter.

The height of the Stinger Voltmeter will barely clear the top part of the slide out ash tray. The supplied double sided sticky tape is the best way to do so. It is very low profile and sticks very well.

-I did not want to do any drilling or modifing the tray so i just passed the wiring through the top of the tray and out the back.

-I wired it directly to the amp. The readings on the voltmeter will be the voltage that the amp is running at.

-Final product. Its important to "calibrate" the voltmeter and make sure it is displaying what the voltage really is. Very easy and in the instructions.

 

[Andrizzle]

I have the same voltmeter. Nice spot, I put a piece of tint over the window because it is way too bright, especially the Stinger logo.

Also, cute valentine necklace.

 

[stallone 81]

good work man and very clean wiring

 

[BlackLS06]

wow....funny how i have the same bass control mounted in the same place. Guess we think alike??

so how did you run the wire??

mine goes under the seat over the carpet and under the rear seat but looking for a way to hide it.

 

[marcredd]

Looks good!!! I went with the Audio Control Epic 160 half din unit.

 

[FrankLS]

Thanks guys. Yeah that spot is perfect. As if it was meant for the voltmeter.

I need to tint the screen too! That is one bright screen at night. Is it harder to see the display during the day?

The ashtray was my gf's spot. Her emergency jewelry. But no more! Come on Andrizzle. I'm sure you have something girly in your LS.

I ran the wiring for the remote right under the paneling where it is mounted. I ran it under the dash, above the pedals and behind the carpeting in the kick panel by the door. Out of sight other than the 1" from the control to the panel.


Edited: : )

-Heres how i mounted the remote.

 

[FrankLS]

Looks good!!! I went with the Audio Control Epic 160 half din unit.

That looks like a good one.

The knob you see in the picture is the factory bass control for the amp. I do have a similar bass enhancer or "epicenter" as some call it, but havnt installed it yet. Those enhancers are nice, especially if the music you listen too lacks some bass.
Im getting good results without it for now.

 

[BlackLS06]

I like it because its an actual gain control and not a bass boost.

Its also pretty accurate with the clipping.

 

[FrankLS]

Correct, my mistake. Gain control, not bass boost.

 

[marcredd]

I rarely use the epicenter due to most newer music being very well reproduced. If I go with the oldies though, it gets used slightly. One can fry a sub quickly if not precise with one. Do not ask me how I learned. LOL. First one I had was nearly 20 years ago.

 

[FrankLS]

Just thought Id post some pictures of the almost finished build. At this time the build is done and pounding.

The only thing I have left to do is permanently mount the amp in some locations. Right now it is just in front of hte box which is not ideal at all. I didnt leave myself too much room to work with during my initial planning and im paying for it now.

-The beasts. AQ 2200 and DC XL 12.

-54 lb beast!

- Some final Install pictures.

 

[FrankLS]

I wanted to post this video I took a few days ago. The camera I used is from my cell phone and distorts the sound very much. It also has a hard time capturing the vibrations. It makes vibrating movements look like waves, so no, my subs suspension is not broken. Also the voltmeter readings do not blink as in the video. Ill try and get a better video up later.

As you can see by the voltmeter, my electical stays up at a descent level. That is as far as I want to turn up my volume as I dont want to cause my electrical too much strain. The sub can take alot more as you can see from the video but my electrical suffers. Maybe oneday when a good HO alt is available.

This set up is deff louder than the two type R's I used to have. Like I said before, the amp is not permanently mounted yet, thats why I have left the extra long wiring on it.

 

[BlackLS06]

Ive always said a single sub setup is better than two.

Bass is monural in sound..... a single sub pushing tons of wattage can beat multiple sub setups all day long. And if it blows, you only have one cone to rebuild.

 

[FrankLS]

Yeah I'm more than satisfied with this single sub. Sometimes when I play it a little to loud, I get a choking feeling in my throat. It pushes a lot of air and produces very deep bass. I just wish I could push it to its max. It just scks up the voltage.

 

[1MiC]

Oh man great thread! Ive been searching and searching for write ups to see how people went about their installs and i really learned alot from this one! props!

 

[FrankLS]

Thanks 1MiC, Im glad it helped you out.

Just a quick update to my build.

Ive been trying to upgrade other areas of my sub build and one thing that i had left out was the Line Out Converter (LOC) and my RCA cables.

So this is what i had before. I honestly dont think there is anything cheaper out there. I purchased this one when I had my 2 Type R's.

This type of LOC is very common. Many much better than this one. Theres been a lot of questions on how to hook up a LOC so this is my write up on my LOC install.

If your looking to add a Subwoofer to a stock sound system, a LOC is a must. A LOC allows you too connect an amplifier to your sound system eventhough your head unit may not have an input for a sub. Most aftermarket head unit will have the input needed. The LOC will create the sinal required for you amplifier. ( I know 99% of you already know all this)

I purchased this LOC at a local shop. It was recomended.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6IYUbeYlMTz/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html

Its a lot better than the one I had before and allows for adjustbility. This one will also be needing a 12v and ground unlike my last one. First thing you have to do is go search for the wires that lead to the factory sub. This is where you will tap in to get the signal that is being sent from the HU.

The wiring diagram for my 06 state the following;
Left rear sub: White/Green is "+", Gray/Orange is "-"
Right rear sub: White/Blue is "+", Gray/Violet is "-"

Not sure if all 2nd Gen are the same colors.

-I spliced the wires leading to the left factory sub.

-Here i soldered a wire into the "+" and "-" to supply the signal to my LOC.

You will only need to get a signal from one of your subs. Many LOC's will have an input for left and right, poss and negative. On the LOC i used to have, i just put both "+" leads together and "-" ones together, therefore creating a single "+" and "-". This is only if your just adding a subwoofer as this method differs when dealing with your door speakers.

-Here are the wires coming from my factory sub into my LOC

-From you LOC youll connect your RCA's.

-The RCA's are then connected to the amplifier. The signal is now transfered from the rear stock subs, to the LOC, then to the amplifier, which will be connected to your aftermarket sub.

For this particular LOC, it required a 12v and ground so i just connected those inputs to the 12v and ground on the amp. It also has a remote wire connect but decided to leave it as is. LOC now turns on on ignition.

I am very impressed at the quality of the sound coming from my sub. I would of never thought that replacing a LOC would make such a drastic change. It could also be that my old LOC was just terrible.

I got my amp, and LOC tuned today and requested a more sound quality tune than the intense thumping i initially had. Its currently not as violent as it was when I initially installed my LOC, but i like the sound quality and I'm very satisified.

Let me know if any changes are needed. Or add info if youd like.

 

[04SCTLS]

I used a 1.25 Farad Cap on my custom made sloped box for my 2000 watts rms and I don't get any dimming when I crank it up.

 

[04SCTLS]

You can buy tuning ports at www.partsexpress.com

If you want to calculate the length of a round port go to www.psp-inc.com and click on their calculator

I used 2 3" ports about 6.25" long for my 3.7 cu ft box instead of the slots I originally cut.

 

[FrankLS]

I remember seeing your box. That's a great option when removing your stock subs. I think a custom box is the way to go. Better than an oversized box which does not allow access to the spare. Thanks for sharing.

 

[jmtiseo]

Nice write-up on the LOC. Looks to be of much higher quality than the run of the mill ones. I'm running the same RCA's. Looking to build a new box at the end of the summer, the one I built this past winter is just tuned too bloody low for my liking. Originally thought I would like it but I want to feel kick drums.

 

[FrankLS]

What was your tune again?

 

[jmtiseo]

I would like to tell you if I knew exactly what it was. My thread states back when I did it and ran it through the programs that it was at 30hz. I'm thinking that through the build it is lower than that. Rap is fine, although not overly loud, but listening to rock I get next to nothing!

 

[BlackLS06]

That LOC looks much better.

Now you just need to get an aftermarket unit in there.

I think im gonna add a second sub to my setup. Kick it up to 1200rms.

 

[04SCTLS]

I remember seeing your box. That's a great option when removing your stock subs. I think a custom box is the way to go. Better than an oversized box which does not allow access to the spare. Thanks for sharing.

Yes the build was posted here almost 3 years ago

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=54583&highlight=custom+sub+box

The trick to build a sloped box like this is to do it piece by piece.
That way you get a perfect fit although it takes more time.
Also mount the amps on 1" rubber isolation posts if securing them to the box.
They're available from Grainger or McMaster Carr
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Cylindrical-Vibration-Isolator-2NNZ5?Pid=search

Since the build I put my Kenwood DD 9140 into my 4x4 last year and replaced it with a 7" Galaxy Tablet and Kenwood 1/2 din eq that I use for my head unit.
I loaded some music onto a micro sd card and checked it out at Best Buy
It was the Verison one and I have an AT&T iphone 4G with hotspot so I bought a wifi only from Tiger Direct for 349.00.

Screen shots and thread

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/sh...light=Replaced+double+din+with+7"+Galaxy

It's great since I only use the music player for tunes but I could have youtube netfix on or the whole internet incuding gps and email, texting etc.
I especially like the bar that lets me jump to any part of a song instead of back and forward buttons.
I put a standalone Garmin where the speedo is since the tablet doesn't have mph.
I like it better there plus my factory speedo is out 4-5 mph fast.

Plus it's held on by velcro so I can take it out if I'm at a hotel while traveling.

 

[FrankLS]

That LOC looks much better.

Now you just need to get an aftermarket unit in there.

I think im gonna add a second sub to my setup. Kick it up to 1200rms.

I know, ive always wanted to get an Avic or Kenwood. I havent yet because i havent found a deal and had my car broken into for the stock HU. I could imagine a aftermarket HU atracting even more theives.