My HID Hi-Beam and Fog Install

Thanks Alax.

I'm having a hard time picturing my ballast fitting behind the head lights. There is not much room for what I remember last weekend. I'm thinking about taking a better look this weekend while I am home on where to mount them.

Were your ballasts and harnesses all plug and play? When I head home this weekend I plan on finding a place to mount the ballasts and which wires I'm tapping into for power and ground. Would you have any input on which wires are could candidates for this?

Looked up the relays during my lunch here and I understand what's going on with them just I'm not too confident in putting one in. I found them at McMaster Car for around $20 with the base to wire it.
 
Does everyone else's lens have a sorta speckle on the inside of it? Or did I just find a legitimate reason to separate the lenses and while I'm in there fixing/cleaning the lenses, install angel eyes?

Do it! I spent 2 hours cleaning the inside of the gen 2 lights I had & it made a difference in the speckle look.
 
Finished! (Grab your reading glasses)

Well made the trek home Friday in well under 4 hours (personal best) and finally installed everything on the car. I estimate if I ever had to do this again that I could mount and wire everything in under 2 hours. Not even going to say how long it took me but I'm just going to say I took my sweet time this weekend.

For starters the install guides I followed were spot on the Retrofit Source and it's pretty cut and dry. So easy, a caveman like myself can do it.

Morimoto Elite HID System Install Guide

Heavy Duty Relay Wiring Harness Install Guide

The only thing extra that I needed for this project besides what came in the box was electrical tape (tape off two unused ends), push on wire connectors (replaced the eye terminal connectors), and a 7/8" hole saw (do I really need to say why?).

I started with the hi-beams (9005 bulb and wire harness). Here are some pics with their descriptions I guess would be the best way to do this.

First, once removed, I prepped the headlight for the install. This simply involved just boring/drilling a 7/8" hole in the hi-beam access panel. This hole allows for the bulbs wires to go through without a chance of letting moisture in. It's one helluva tight fit and I'm more than happy with it.
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This plug will not fit into said 7/8" hole so it needs to be taken apart. Remove the clip and using a pair of pliers I pulled on the wires. It's very firm but to my surprise I didn't break them.
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Clip and wires removed from plug.
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I then fed the wires through the access panel. and put the plug back together. I wish I would have put my thinking cap sooner because I had no idea how I was doing this so I filed a little bit of the cover and housing to run the wires through.
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Prepped bulb with alcohol pad and Installed the 9005 Hi-Beam bulb and attached wires per install guide listed above. These will fit very tight which I don't mind. The first one I filed away some of the flange on the bulb but the second one I didn't to see if I could get it in. I got it to fit in with some effort, I didn't Wheaties in the morning of the first one.
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Then attached the access panel back on to the headlight assy.
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My boo boo is the brown on the bottom. Was just making sure I covered the hole that was there and then some. You learn from your mistakes as this was the only snag in the install I had.
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Next I mounted the ballast on the core support. There are plenty of holes to pick and choose from but this one was the best fit for me. I think this is a good location to keep it away from the weather. Only concern its location relative to the radiator and the stress on the wires to get them where I could plug in the bulb and ballast input. (Passenger's side)
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(Driver's Side) Tight squeeze with the factory ground but I don't think the headlight assy would fit if I installed the ballast there.
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After mounting the ballast, I did passenger side first as it's the most difficult (not saying it's hard), I mounted the relay harness. Per Retro Fit Source they needed to be mounted upright to avoid problems with the relay getting water into it, so that's what I did. The relay for the hi-beams is located on the ground wire that is attached on the core support right next to where I mounted my ballast on the passenger side. Again, I saw this and I was going through hell and high water to mount it there. Took a solid 10 minutes to get the screw off as it's a tight area to get too.
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I then plugged the wires in there place as mentioned in the install guide so all that was left was power and ground. Remember how I mounted the relay to a factory ground, BOOM! that's where I grounded my relay. The power on the other hand I tapped into the fuse box. Again thanks to Alax and 1LoudLS I weighed in on the options and took Alax's way as I couldn't find the positive screw that was being mentioned and if it was what I though it was there was no way in hell I was getting it off the fuse box to attach my power wires. The threads I got this info from areHERE and HERE. Amazing what a proper Google Search can bring up. I cut and replaced the eyelets with female push connections and put the one for my hi-beam relay into fuse holder 17, for my fogs fuse holder 18. These are fused with 30 amp fuses, they came with them already wired in. Didn't notice at first but the relays have LED's in them to tell you if they're getting power, this will help diagnose later if there is a problem.
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Next up was simply installing the headlight and checking if everything worked. It was all good and I moved onto the fog lights which were much easier.

The only difference between the fog light install and the hi beam is that I didn't have to drill a hole and these are more in the open. The ballasts and relays are away from the heat of the engine compartment but are more susceptible to weather. I mounted my ballast to the fog light bolt that is to the top towards the bumper angling the ballast towards the bumper for added protection (probably not). The relay harness for the fog lights is attached the bottom bolt of the windshield washer tank/reservoir. After wire wheeling the surface for a solid ground contact I again attached my ground to this location for the fog light relay ground. The power for this relay is run up to the fuse box fuse holder 18 in the box.
It's a bit of a mess of wires. But I tucked them into the wheel well piece directly behind the fog light bumper mount.
(Driver's side)
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(Passenger's side, showing ballast location)
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I wired everything for the passenger side first. The only other wires that I need to find a place to tuck away were the ones going to the driver's side. For the hi-beams I zip-tied them to the hefty run of wirst going along the core support in front of the radiator.
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For the fog lights I removed the plastic cover on the bottom (I'm not calling that a skid plate). If you're going to remove it it's a 5.5 mm size screw and one push clip. We had one surprisingly from the one time we replaced an oil pan in my dad's Bronco. Probably the second time this size socket was used in the past 10 years. Anyways, I tucked the wire from the fog light relay to the driver's side in the slot that this cover slides into, reinstalled then installed the cover again.

Lastly, I just repeated the ballast location and access cover hold drilling from the passenger side to the driver's side. It's much easier on this side as you won't be messing with the relay harness. Per pair of ballasts only one relay harness is required. I opted out of the plug and play in line capacitor since I was advised by Retro Fit Source that these are you your best bet to avoid problems and since they are running off of a power source they make for a better install, so I was told. They were the same price either way so I wanted the sure thing. If I were to do it again though I'd probably go with the plug and play capacitors if I was concerned with flickering or a bulb out message, although our cars don't have those for the fog lights, hi-beams, or lo-beams.

Well if you're reading this you got to the point you've been waiting for, comparison shots. If you didn't read everything above you still reached the same end result, comparison shots. All of these pictures in this post were taken with my mom's newly acquired Nikon P510 which was the first awesome digital camera I've used. Big thanks for that.

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I will have more pics next weekend with the hi-beams as I forgot to take pictures of those. No comparisons just what everything looks like. As mentioned by 1LoudLS in another post if you don't want light output from your hi beams, then install HIDs in them. He wasn't lying, the halogen bulb has more usable light coming out compared to the HID, I was doing it for the color match but holy cannoli you lose a lot of output in the switch. The fog lights were the opposite though as I'm getting more out of them but there is glare created from it not being a projector or a HID reflector housing.

Overall this went well for me. Being my first major modification I'm pleased with the results and now I'm looking to wire in the relay to make the fog lights stay on with the hi-beams, not as impressive as I thought with the loss of hi-beam output but I think it will still be cool to do. I asked my brother about it and he did it in his SRT4 Neon with 2 SPDT relays, equivalent to 1 DPDT relay I'm assuming. I asked him how he did it and he wouldn't spill the beans but he said he would know how if he had to do it again.

With this install I wonder why I didn't do HID fogs sooner, it's easy as cake fellas! If I can do it anyone can. This was a courage booster. When the time's right I'm seperating these bad boys installing some angel eyes, clear reflectors, possible color matched bezel, and refinishing my lenses; my lenses are downright terrible!

Thanks for checking this out guys and gals, hope this helps others down the road if they choose to do this or even motivates some of you to do it! Thanks to those who've had input thus far in this thread and previous threads; the info is out there newcomers if you search for it! Will have more pics to come next weekend, stay tuned.

*Edit - Just realized all those links are to pictures in my photobucket. Found out all those pictures are in the wrong folder, FTW! they're staying where they're at.
 
Nice, I like the grommet install. Planning to do something similar with the morimoto 55-watt HID kits.
 
Looking good man, crisp white is a huge turn on!

Side note... Woah those ballasts are massive.... Any reason you didn't go with a slim kit?
 
Nice work, everything looks great.

I see you went with my ballast location ;)

Buy a DPTP relay and mess around with it, then go back and read what I wrote and see if it makes sense. Its basically one relay that moves the fogs between 2 circuits. The first circuit will have the fogs in the oem function, but then the second circuit, activated when the high beams are on, will give the fogs power from the battery when the HI's are on. The first circuit will take the power off from the fogs due to the oem function, but the fogs wont be on that circuit when the hi beams triggers the relay switch.

I have been told I'm terrible at explaining things, sorry if I sound confusing. Everything goes so fast in my head but that doesn't translate well when you're trying to explain it to someone who doesn't get it.
 
I wouldn't take Alax's advice... he doesn't even own an LS anymore...





































Lol I kid, i kid.
 
Kumba, The grommets come with them and they really help a lot; nice tight fit! The 5Fives would be stellar, assuming no other wiring had to be upgraded for the higher output. I wouldn't think it would need to be upgraded but who knows. I'm happy with the 3Fives, could only imagine the skosche more you'd get with the extra wattage.

Driz, Although space was a concern I was confident these would fit. I wanted to go through the Retro Fit and these were the only ones they offered that were sealed. The other slim ballasts they consider OEM replacements almost and should be put in an enclosure. Also, these are the cheapest ones they offer.

Alax, I'd have to be Helen Keller to have mounted it anywhere else, where to mount everything for this stuck out like a sore thumb. Going to look into the relays. Doesn't own one anymore, forgot about that lol. When's it getting set free?

Thanks guys.
 
Wow... those stealth bulbs are EXPENSIVE!!!

I will be doing LED bulbs on my car. Switch backs on the front, and regular amber for the rear. They're not "invisible" when off, but they aren't amber either. $12.50/bulb from DDM.
 
I am thinking installing an HID kit on the low beams on my 2004 Lincoln LS V8. I haven't figured out how to install the new bulb with the HID wiring and maintaining the seal on the headlight until I saw your install pics. Is the black piece that the wires go through to maintain your seal something that came with your kit or did you purchase this separately? If I don't have access to something like this, do you have any other suggestions on how to wire this and to maintain the seal? Thanks in advance for your help!

Tobias
 
Elemino, the relays were to ensure there would be no flicker of the lights as suggested by Retro Fit Source. I only had a weekend to do the install and not knowing when I could be able to do it again I wanted to get it right the first time. Probably wasn't necessary and caused for more work but they worked great in the end.

TobiasFunke, the rubber grommet (the black piece the wires go through) came with my kit and may come with others as well. You could purchase one seperately I'm not sure how you're getting the wires through it without cutting the ends off.

If you look at the pictures of my hi-beam access hole and cover you'll see a spot that is loaded with silicone caulk where I started to file away plastic to put the wires through. I was going to run them this way because I jumped at my first idea of how to run the wires into the head lamps. Using a grommet would be the cleanest way to do it plus you won't have to seal it again if you change bulbs for maintenance or a color change.

If you can't find one however, I don't see a problem with filing a small clearance in the bottom as I did or drilling access holes through the cover and then sealing it the same way. If you don't have one and want to use a grommet, get the smallest one possible to run the wires through and seal it up, I think latex is preferred, and and drill an undersized hole to put the grommet in. Test the size of the hole on a piece of scrap; you want that sucker to be tight.

There's probably a better way but this is the cheapest and easiest way I can think of during my lunch break. A lot of knowledgable people on here may chime in on a different way but long story short. Find a good kit with the grommets with the wires already running through them.

Good luck!
 
Update -

I will be replacing the relay wiring harness with the capacitor for my fog lights as I believe one of them was blasted by an under body sprayer last Friday. The bulb checked out good and I don't suspect the ballast to be bad as it's located and wired like to the other side except for the mess of wires for the relays . The location I have this relay is down right terrible. Only doing this for my fogs since the hi-beam relays are in a heavily guarded fortress behind the core support.
 
:( The return policy for TRS, turns out the relays are in good working order. This blasted thing isn't working. What the eff, I thought I found some good ones, hoping this one was just a fluke. Anyways, send a pic like this to them and they're shipping out a new one .

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That case looks pretty cheap to me. Once upon a time in the car audio world, the rule of thumb was to stay away from subwoofers that looked too pretty. It has since changed, but I still use that rule when it comes to some stuff.
 
Really don't know what to think about the set anymore. I haven't done a side by side to the DDMs, Xentech, or other HID kits, I was just going down an unblazed trail and giving 'em a try. As mentioned they came highly suggested by one of my buddies who's more into this anyone I know on here, personally don't know anyone but you smellin' what I'm steppin in? ;) They're getting me a ballast quick though and I really like a place with great customer service.

As for the cheap look, I don't know what to say either. If you ask me, unless they're OEM it's all the same :q:q:q:q. I actually took the faulty one and tried to get to the internals. Not a clean or easy task without breaking something. Yeah, the back plate comes off easily but then it is filled with a foam/sandy sealant. Literally looks like they injected it full of it to seal it. In taking apart I came across a few water drops and I'm associating the failure to that as they failed shortly/during after a brutal touchless car wash.
 
The fogs I (and a friend) have are from DDM. He's driven his truck through waist deep water and his still work. My DDM's have been through plenty of washes and high water without issue... though my bulbs are starting to get to a point where they may need to be replaced.
 
This is why I just run LED fogs. They aren't as bright as an hid setup but they are completely sealed like the oem bulbs and my oem his lows are bright enough that I don't even need fogs.
 
I'm not running DDM nor do I plan to. I didn't have to wait for these to come from China, although the kits probably are still made there and I'm trying something different than running what everyone else is.

I thought Andrizzle said to stay away from LED fogs? Thought I read on here they last maybe a year or so and start to flicker? Is that right or no?
 
My LED fogs have been in for over a year and i run them at all times. I use them as DRL's. Have yet to fail me.

Mine are the same as his were but i got mine later than he did. And they changed the design again the newer ones are supposed to be better.
 
I'm not running DDM nor do I plan to. I didn't have to wait for these to come from China, although the kits probably are still made there and I'm trying something different than running what everyone else is.

I thought Andrizzle said to stay away from LED fogs? Thought I read on here they last maybe a year or so and start to flicker? Is that right or no?
They do come from China, but they ship them express. It took about a week to get my last set. The day after they hit the coast in San Francisco they were at my house in Dallas.

I've read a lot of articles that say to avoid LED lights such as those because of the heat of those super bright LED's. Because they don't dissipate heat away from the base of the bulb like halogen bulbs, the heat builds and can melt the housing around the opening. I have no personal experience with those types, but that's what I've heard. I've used LED's in other applications without problems, of course they aren't as bright as those headlight replacements either.
 
So what exactly happened here? The wire exploded and cut itself in half?
 
I've read a lot of articles that say to avoid LED lights such as those because of the heat of those super bright LED's. Because they don't dissipate heat away from the base of the bulb like halogen bulbs, the heat builds and can melt the housing around the opening. I have no personal experience with those types, but that's what I've heard. I've used LED's in other applications without problems, of course they aren't as bright as those headlight replacements either.

Mine run cooler than halogen bulbs.
 
I thought led's run cooler than halogen as well.

Mark, that's TRS's warranty policy. Instead of paying shipping and the hassle to send it back just for them to tell you it doesn't work, they ask you to send a pic with the wires cut and the serial number. They probably could be soldered back but why go through the trouble, they just don't want to give out free ballasts. They shipped mine the very next day no questions asked. If it were my relay that were bad they were going to send a new relay cube to just plug on top.
 

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