Kenwood eXcelon DNX9980HD install

[LDM]

OK, the wire has been run from the stereo dash area, up the passenger A-Pillar and across the headliner and back into the C-Pillar. Thanks for pushing that suggestion.

Now to hook it up to one of the wires in the C-Pillar.

 

[LDM]

I took off more of the harness wrap to the sunroof.

Here's the part number(s) of the label on the sunroof wire harness. I don't know if that would help give someone info on what wires are in that harness or not.

1W4T-14334-FD

 

[LDM]

If we are pretty sure it's either the gray/orange wire or the blue/black wire, I will put one of these on one of them and try it. If it doesn't work, I'll tape it or cut it off, and put another one on the other wire and try it.
(I soldered the female ends, not a fan of crimping things, especially the important power wire. I didn't have enough insulated quick-disconnects, so I'll use these and electrical tape).

If it sounds like I am hesitant to cut/splice into a wiring harness and guess at it, I am...

 

[LDM]

Results of Moonroof wires using Digital Multimeter:

Gray/Orange
1) 12V Door open key out
2) 12V Door Closed key out, dome light still on
3) 12V Door Closed key out, dome light off
4) 12V Key in, not turned
5) No power when key turned in any position, even when car is running
6) No power when key turned in any position, even when car is running, and headlights on
7) No power with key turned back to off, or key out
8) Open door, 12V returns
I can repeat that...

Blue/Black
1) 12V Door open key out
2) 12V Door Closed key out, dome light still on
3) 12V Door Closed key out, dome light off
4) 12V Key in, not turned
5) No power when key turned in any position, even when car is running
6) No power when key turned in any position, even when car is running, and headlights on
7) No power with key turned back to off, or key out
8) Open door, 12V returns
I can repeat that...

Good try. I understand it was a wild guess (no problem with that). Now what?

Anyone with a Gen1 that has this RAP working... can you pull the passenger C-Pillar and tell me which wire is connected? Thanks

 

[1LoudLS]

i didnt have a computer with me when i tapped into mine so i couldnt check in on the color so i just used a meter and tested every wire until i found the right one.

i would never use a "t-tap" because they have a tendency to cut some of the strands of the wire that is tapped into, which can cause major problems (a lot of electrical fires i have seen in cars where due to T taps) the best way is to strip back some of the insulation (side strippers work best but a knife will do) then i take a pick tool and split the strands, then poke the new wire through the hole that the pick tool made, then wrap it around tightly, then solder. if you want to you can leave out the soldering and this will give you the most secure connection you can make.

for the proper way to interface with wires check this page out, about half way down, under tap soldering.
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

 

[1LoudLS]

also just a random thought, those test results seem to be the exact opposite of what you need, those circuits could be negative trigger like a lot of other circuits are with this car (instead of the 12+ wire going to the circuit powering on and off, the ground wire does) if this is the case you would need to use a relay to reverse the polarity. hopefully Joe can either confirm or deny this as its been a couple of years since i did this and i know that i had to use a lot of relays because of the same issue when i did the remote start/alarm at the same time.

you can test this if none of the other wires test correctly, by testing with the negative lead of the meter probing the wires, and the positive lead on the positive terminal of the battery.

 

[LDM]

I don't like t-taps/quick splices either, but it's what I had on hand. This is why I'm not comfortable hacking into this area. I didn't want to get back in there with a hot soldering iron... just not much clearance. Glad I didn't, as still searching for correct wire.

Doing the search method would tell me if it's hot (of which both of these are, until the key is on), but not which is the RAP. I don't feel like stripping wires unless I know which one and what's going on.

I could try and take the t-taps off, strip those back and check for broken strands... fix if needed, add electrical tape (I have Scotch Professional Grade Super 88, and 3M Friction Tape).

Do you still have your Gen1 V6, with RAP working? If so, can you pull the C-Pillar and look for me?

 

[joegr]

also just a random thought, those test results seem to be the exact opposite of what you need, those circuits could be negative trigger like a lot of other circuits are with this car (instead of the 12+ wire going to the circuit powering on and off, the ground wire does) if this is the case you would need to use a relay to reverse the polarity. hopefully Joe can either confirm or deny this as its been a couple of years since i did this and i know that i had to use a lot of relays because of the same issue when i did the remote start/alarm at the same time.

you can test this if none of the other wires test correctly, by testing with the negative lead of the meter probing the wires, and the positive lead on the positive terminal of the battery.

Yeah, the wiring diagrams also imply that the RAP signal to the moon roof on gen I might be negative trigger. You might be able to do something with a relay if so. Alternately, you might find a positive trigger at the driver's door module (but I couldn't pick one out from the diagrams).

 

[LDM]

OK, thanks everyone. I'll remove the quick splice/t-taps, strip those 2 wires back to see if any strands were broke and fix them. Dropping the RAP wiring at the moonroof, going to put everything back as it was... using Run/ACC for power to the radio.

I found the broken clip for the emergency brake, glued it back on with some supporting plastic. The upper vents above the radio with the push buttons already had a left clip broke, and the buttons were glued on by the previous owner. Those buttons fell off. The gray globs in this picture is what the previous repair was done with. I made a new clip, and glued the clip, buttons, and emergency brake clip back on using "Amazing E-6000 Industrial Strength Adhesive" (needs 48 hours to set up completely though). I also took off the foam vent liners as they were loose and glued them back on with this too. Seems to be great stuff. We'll see how this holds up.

 

[LDM]

Wires in moonroof c-pillar back to normal, quick connects/t-taps removed, all taped back up.
Disclaimer: No wires were harmed during this installation.

The M5x7MM bolts that came with the Kenwood unit are too short to connect through the Metra Dash Kit plastic.
Off to the hardware store for longer bolts.

Edit: Home Depot had M5x10MM Hex head bolts that work fine. The Kenwood came with 6 bolts (3 each side), I put on 8 bolts (4 each side).

 

[LDM]

Initial test with only the 1st harness in the 1st picture below is good, it's working. Adjusting bezel position etc for now. Sounds good on HD FM (more stereo seperation than stock HU, which could be because of HD Radio).

Steering Control is not working, though the light says it found the car & radio. Other forums/websites shows some have had to hook up 2 resistors to get this HU working with ASWC Steering (it may think it's a JVC). I guess Kenwood changed something in the newer model HU's... reading about that now.

I am only going to be pulling this thing in and out with the one harness connected, until the Metra ASWC is working right.

After that is done, I still have to plug in the following plugs: MIC, Voice, iPod audio mini plug, iPod video mini plug, GPS antenna, USB ports, Sirius radio adapter wire, sub/center RCA's.

And... these cables in the last picture go in too.

I don't know that all of this is going to fit! Of course I only want 1 or 2 items off of each cable (but it all has to plug in just to get the 1 or 2 that I want...) otherwise I wouldn't plug in some of these.

At least the HU is working!

Back to researching the Metra Axxess ASWC...

 

[LDM]

The Metra Axxess ASWC Steering Wheel Control detects some of the new Kenwood line of HU's as JVC (thus nothing works automatically via auto-detect).

I have read that you put a resistor between the ASWC and Pin14 of the 20-Pin car's harness... in the White/Green wire, then it will auto-detect Kenwoods correctly... then you remove the resistor. I have read that it needs to be a 12,000 Ohm resistor (also read it needs a 10,000 Ohm, and read that it needs 1200 Ohm resistor). Seems like the common agreement is that it needs a 12,000 Ohm (12K) resistor. I went through all my resistors and could only come up with or make: 10,000 or 11,000, or 11,200 or 11,500 or 12,200 or 12,500. I didn't want to take it out and rewire it anyway.

After much reading here is how to manually program the ASWC. I have made this much shorter than the manual. I documented it for a Gen1. You can manually program it for a Gen2, but use the manual. The Gen1's have less buttons on the steering wheel than a Gen2, so the programming will be slightly different.

Metra Axxess ASWC manual programming for Kenwood HU's on a Gen1 Lincoln LS

Start programming process:
Press and hold the reset button down for more then 10 seconds until slow constant flash on the ASWC.

Button Programming:
1) Press and hold Volume Up for 7 seconds until solid Red.
2) Press and hold Volume Down for 7 seconds until solid Red.
3) Press and hold Volume Up for 1 second until the LED comes on.
4) Press and hold Volume Up for 1 second until the LED comes on.
5) Press and hold Media for 7 seconds until solid Red.
6) Press and hold Mute for 7 seconds until solid Red.
7) End of "button" programming: Press and hold Volume Up for at least 10 seconds until a slow constant blink.

You are now going to program the brand of radio HU.

Radio ID Mode:
1) Press and hold Volume Down for 5 seconds until the LED starts to flash quickly.
2) Press and hold Volume Up until the LED goes solid Red.
3) Press and hold Volume Up again until the LED goes solid Red. You have now programmed a Kenwood HU.
4) Press and hold Volume Down for at least 5 seconds until LED flashes.

LED should flash twice indicating Kenwood Radio, then the LED will go solid Red indicating programming complete. Done.

If you need to start over, start at the top by pressing reset for more than 10 seconds.

Metra Axxess ASWC instructions:
http://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manuals/metra/aswc.pdf

Resistor info:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/

I just did it and it worked the first time, took less than 5 minutes. It's very easy to do.

(It took hours to research the resistors and reading etc... glad I came across how to manually program it, as it's much easier than doing the resistor method, once you figure out the steps).

 

[LDM]

I have been running around all day, just now starting on the HU wiring. Went to BestBuy, RadioShack and AudioExpress... none of them knew how to change the RAP power w/negative trigger via a relay or whatever etc.

I changed the main HU harness to make things longer, changed the Illumination wire that I did with quickconnects to solder, made the power Run/ACC wire longer and put it behind the glovebox area so I can work on adding the RAP feature later without pulling the HU. I got a Metra 24" Antenna Extension cable (44-EC24) and then I was able to put the 3 main car harnesses, antenna, ASWC, Parking override etc in behind the glovebox area (I am able to pull the HU harness & antenna wire out and push it back in). This allows me to add a different antenna someday without pulling the HU, and it cleaned up the area behind the HU for the other cables I need to run.

Before/After pic below.

 

[hite337]

Great work!

 

[1LoudLS]

none of them knew how to change the RAP power w/negative trigger via a relay or whatever etc.

switching polarity from neg trigger to positive with a relay

87A - no connection
87 - 12v+ constant input
30 - output to the radio's acc wire
85 - 12v+ constant input
86 - input from neg trigger wire

 

[1LoudLS]

btw, good job of tucking everything out of the way, getting everything to go back into the dash can be one of the trickiest parts, that should help to make that as painless as can be.

 

[LDM]

Great work!

Thanks Hite!

switching polarity from neg trigger to positive with a relay

87A - no connection
87 - 12v+ constant input
30 - output to the radio's acc wire
85 - 12v+ constant input
86 - input from neg trigger wire

Thanks for the info! I was on the net looking at diagrams and the like and they mentioned those connections. I bought a relay today just in case at Radio Shack... it has 4 connections (no 87A) - YH185B 012-1H9.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

Something like this then? I just soldered it up... (ran out of proper color wires)
86-My Black at relay from moonroof RAP, 30-My White at relay to Red Kenwood HU ACC

87 - 12v+ constant input (Yellow wire from car's 16-Pin harness)
30 - output to the radio's acc wire (Red "Ignition Wire/ACC" from Kenwood HU)
85 - 12v+ constant input (Yellow wire from car's 16-Pin harness, or jumpered from "87")
86 - input from neg trigger wire (RAP wire from moonroof Gray/Orange or Blue/Black)

Need to run the wires to proper places, need to find a place for the relay, maybe on top of the glovebox, run the wire back to the moonroof harness in the C-Pillar etc.

 

[1LoudLS]

87 - 12v+ constant input (Yellow wire from car's 16-Pin harness)
30 - output to the radio's acc wire (Red "Ignition Wire/ACC" from Kenwood HU)
85 - 12v+ constant input (Yellow wire from car's 16-Pin harness, or jumpered from "87")
86 - input from neg trigger wire (RAP wire from moonroof Gray/Orange or Blue/Black)

that should do it as long as you first have confirmed wiht the following test to make sure those really are negative trigger RAP wires

you can test this if none of the other wires test correctly, by testing with the negative lead of the meter probing the wires, and the positive lead on the positive terminal of the battery.

you will want to see 12v+ anytime the radio should be on, and nothing anytime the radio should be off.

 

[Tru-Blu]

Impressive install, LDM - very thorough and quality work so far!

 

[LDM]

That should do it as long as you first have confirmed with the following test to make sure those really are negative trigger RAP wires. You will want to see 12v+ anytime the radio should be on, and nothing anytime the radio should be off.

Test above completed, results are as you stated.

I hooked up the Relay in the car:
86-Relay from Blue/Black wire in C-Pillar Moonroof harness.
30-Relay to HU Run/ACC wire has nothing when the car is off, 12V when the Ignition Key is at ACC or Run, 12V when the Key is off and/or the Key is removed, and no voltage when the door is opened.

Thank you 1LoudLS and Joegr for this help! It's a RAP!

Now to tuck in the cables, install the HU in the dash, button everything up behind the glovebox and put everything back to normal. It's time to actually install the HU!

Your install is coming along nicely. Very good job in the glove compartment! Cant wait to see the finished product.

Install is looking clean so far!

super clean, looking great

Impressive install, LDM - very thorough and quality work so far!

Thanks Guys! Hopefully everything's gonna be all right!

 

[LDM]

Getting closer. Adjusting cables right now etc. This might go a little faster with another person, but it's getting done (a lot of in and out of the car etc). Found a spot for the Relay. Above the glovebox on the right side there are some metal supporting braces, it has a hollow trough with a hole. There is a mounting hole on the Relay. I put two zip ties through the metal brace hole with each going through the Relay hole, going around the brace from each side. The top edges of those braces are kinda sharp, be sure to add some extra protection on the wires when they come out and over the top of the brace. Here's some pics.

 

[FrankLS]

great progress. I bet you cant wait to turn that HU on!

 

[hite337]

That HU looks sweet in the dash.

 

[1LoudLS]

Thank you 1LoudLS and Joegr for this help! It's a RAP!

I see what you did there, clever!

thats great, again real clean install bud. a second set of hands is definitely a great help but as long as you take your time and have clean wiring it can be done solo.

 

[SickLS]

Sounds like a plan. At least I could help remotely if not in person!

Someone has been in behind the center dash before. One clip is missing/broken off the top vent, and the buttons on that vent where they were screwed on originally have been glued on... that came apart/off too... guess I have some repair work to do on those buttons. Don't know about fixing the one vent plastic latch...

Thats the fix for the buttons is glue.
Try and buy the part from ford and see how much it costs.

A sh!t ton!!!!! Around $240 if I remember right.