i need some help with this one

420ss

420ss

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out of the blue, no warning signs at all, i go to try and start my 97 LSC and all it does is keep on cranking the motor, but wont start, it was running perfectly the night before, so i check the schrader valve (the pressure release valve on the fuel rail) and nothing, now keep in mind that i just replaced the fuel pump and i haven't even put 800 miles on it yet. so i checked all the fuses and relays that have any thing to do with the fuel pump, hell i checked ones that didn't have any thing to do with it, and they were all good. Then i moved onto the fuel filter in the fender well, i removed it, it wasn't clogged, then i turned the key and no fuel at all came out of the now open fuel line. now is there something i'am missing here? did i just get a faulty fuel pump? is there some type of control module that my chilton manual does not know about (which wouldn't surprise me seeings that it doesn't even show the C.O.P set up for the ignition system, and the book says it covers my year) so any help and/or insight onto this issue would be greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance my fellow LVC'ers cause you guys have helped me through this whole saga that brought my mark back from the dead once, and i know you guys will help me through this one :confused:
 
Put 12v power to the pump see if it works if so
Check the inertia switch and
Check the crank shaft position sensor.
 
Crank Position Sensor might need to be replaced but unplug it first and then plug it back in. If you have some electronics cleaner, clean the plug off and then see if it starts up. Make sure the inertia switch is also pressed in but it shouldn't have just turned itself off for no reason. Could be a number of things keeping it from starting but the CPS is an easy start.
 
Sounds like you might have a bad VLCM. variable load control module. Controls fuel pump operation on both gens, but is called a vcrm on 1st gens. As slowmkviii said put power to the pump at the inertia switch and see if it runs. Or see if your getting 12 volts to the inertia switch. I believe the inertia switch is last in line before power goes to the pump. Not sure how to tell you to check the vlcm without swapping it with a known good one. It's located on the air suspension compressor bracket on 2nd gens.
 
is the inertia switch the switch in the trunk next to the air ride on/off switch? and if so first test to see if it is getting power, then put 12V to it to kind of "jump start" the pump. and thank you slowmkviii, NoLimit95, and chargerxr, for your fast response to my problem, i am feeling better already
 
Now, I'm going to say something really stupid because it's happened to me TWICE. Mark VIII's HATE to be low on fuel. I parked my car on the very slightest incline with what I thought was 1/4 tank of fuel and the girl just cranked and cranked without starting. It took me 4 gallons of gas to right the ship. Likewise, when I had the cruise control recall done, the Lincoln dealership ran the car really low on gas. It did the same thing when I went to start it the next day. No go. So, if you're parked on an incline at all, I personally wouldn't rule it out :D
 
Hot*Mk8 said:
Now, I'm going to say something really stupid because it's happened to me TWICE. Mark VIII's HATE to be low on fuel. I parked my car on the very slightest incline with what I thought was 1/4 tank of fuel and girl just cranked and cranked without starting. It took me 4 gallons of gas to right the ship. Likewise, when I had the cruise control recall done, the Lincoln dealership ran the car really low on gas. It did the same thing when I went to start it the next day. No go. So, if you're parked on an incline at all, I personally wouldn't rule it out :D
Click to expand...

Good point. I've seen it happen many times also.
 
nolimit95 said:
crank position sensor might need to be replaced but unplug it first and then plug it back in. If you have some electronics cleaner, clean the plug off and then see if it starts up. Make sure the inertia switch is also pressed in but it shouldn't have just turned itself off for no reason. Could be a number of things keeping it from starting but the cps is an easy start.
Click to expand...

+1
 
UltimateSVT said:
All 3 mentioned above are possible issues. However don't rule out a bad pump. I've heard of brand new pumps going bad within a year of purchasing. Unfortunately they don't make parts like they used to.
Click to expand...

Yep the new ones are always the first to go now, dam Chinese parts
 
On a Gen 2, the VLCM only controls the cooling fans and the A/C clutch (first diagram).

Check for power at pin 9 of the FPDM (the "C" triangle in the last diagram), or the output of the IFS (the "C" triangle in the third diagram), and then work backwards thru the IFS, relays and fuses until you get 12 volts to find the problem.

If you have 12 volts at the IFS/FPDM, the check the output of the FPDM betwenn pins 3 and 10.

If you have power, then the pump is probably bad.

What pump did you just install?

VLCM.jpg


FuelPump_1.jpg


FuelPump_2.jpg


FuelPump_3.jpg
 
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the pump was the 255 LPH high performance fuel pump from ebay, and i know you get what you pay for, it was only like 50 or 60 bucks, and i just opened the pump housing and replaced the pump and the inner and outer sock filters and reused the plastic pump housing. and no it wasn't a walbro. i thought it was at first, and i was wondering where are the locations of the units i need t test, and good info gathering there thank you DLF, and every one else, i will post the results as soon as i figure out these units locations, i am sure at least one is in the trunk
 
i am reading 12v at the wire right next to the pink and brown or black stripped one, i think it is a beige or tan color one that i am reading power comming from and it is the only one showing any power in that FPDM plug
 
420ss said:
i am reading 12v at the wire right next to the pink and brown or black stripped one, i think it is a beige or tan color one that i am reading power comming from and it is the only one showing any power in that FPDM plug
Click to expand...

Did you test for power at pin 10 with the FPDM plugged in and the key on?

FPDM_C310.jpg
 
420ss said:
no i tested it with it unplugged but i will go and test it right now with the harness plugged in,
Click to expand...

Without the FPDM plugged in, there isn't much chance of testing whether or not it works. :rolleyes:
 
no power at #10 with it plugged in and the key on, so what do you think the diagnosis is DLF, and thanks again for the added support on this one
 
oh ya i did the HID conversion last week with your adapters, they are perfect thanks for the hook up on the adapters, perfect craftmenship
 
420ss said:
no power at #10 with it plugged in and the key on, so what do you think the diagnosis is DLF, and thanks again for the added support on this one
Click to expand...

Well, I'd double-check pin 10, and also check pin 3 (in case I'm wrong about which is power and which is ground to the pump), but it sure sounds like the FPDM died.

It also possible that the cheap pump may have killed the FPDM, so even replacing the FPDM might not be a permanent solution. :(

There's a reason that I only recommend a Focus pump as an upgrade on a Gen 2. ;)
 
420ss said:
oh ya i did the HID conversion last week with your adapters, they are perfect thanks for the hook up on the adapters, perfect craftmenship
Click to expand...

I'm glad that you're pleased with your purchase. :)
 
pin 3 shows no power either, and i double checked #10 still nothing, so i guess next question is how much do you think that FPDM will cost me?
 
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