Hub swap/front brake mod

For that one I trim the bottom off the torx large dia. I trim it off flat with the shank if you get what I mean. I slice it off with whizzer wheel on car. Then when putting bolt back in I put backwards. Been that way on car for 7 years and 11's. Or are you saying the bolt is frozen in the arm?
 
it's not frozen, the torx pan head just won't clear the bottom of the axle......Ford assembled this as a "one and done''? not designed to be serviceable sans cutter? sheesh
 
dnsherrill said:
it's not frozen, the torx pan head just won't clear the bottom of the axle......Ford assembled this as a "one and done''? not designed to be serviceable sans cutter? sheesh
Click to expand...

Ford put the bolts in before the axles. Alot of peeps on here say they pound the bolt out without trimming. I like to trim just to make easy to remove.
 
the cut torx pan head bolt can be replaced with a std. hex head bolt (24mm) yes?....
 
Wait wait wait... Before you start cutting. You need to install a puller to the hub and push the axle out of the hub... Once you push the axle in towards the center of the car, the head of that bolt will clear the axle and can be removed.
 
I've got no words of wisdom here since I've never perform this yet, but will be in a few days and have been doing some research, so take this with a grain of salt.

The service manual does state that, like DieselDan says, after removing the upper control arm bolt, you need to press the axle out so it's loose, then shift it as far inward as possible and it "should" clear the bolt head. Probably with a lot of grunting and cussing I assume.

When installing, you're supposed to leave the upper bolt out at first, install the rear lower bolt, then push the axle inward again to clear the front bolt head and insert it. Then install the upper.

It also states:
"CAUTION: The lower control arm bolts must be installed with the Torx heads facing the rear of the vehicle."

I know a plenty of people have installed the lower bolts with the heads facing opposite directions and have had no problems, but I'm just putting it out there for consideration. My car's currently that way actually. But I'm sure Ford had a good reason to do it that way, and that there's more to it than simply how it was assembled at the factory. If I had to guess, I'd assume it has something to do with the fact that the end with the head is going to be locked to its mating surface, and they wanted the bolt turning with the knuckle and not the control arm. The bushings are probably designed to take that into account. Just a theory.

Also be sure that when you reinstall, you lift the control arm/knuckle to the normal ride height angle before tightening the bolts. Otherwise you'll twist the bushings when setting the car down on its wheels. The manual actually tells you to put a mark across the bushings and control arms before disassembling, so you can line them up on reassembly.

Like I said, I'm no sage. Just thought I'd put it out there. I really need to stop writing these novels at 2 AM.
 
Couple reasons I do it the cut way. (1) didn't want to take off axle nut that's suppose to be one use deal only. (2) I change out pumkins alot and don't need to undo anything to get that bolt out now and can change pumkins in minutes. Everyone does things different.
 
Your explanation does make sense. I suppose that is a valid alternative. I hadn't thought of it that way...
 
DieselDan said:
Wait wait wait... Before you start cutting. You need to install a puller to the hub and push the axle out of the hub... Once you push the axle in towards the center of the car, the head of that bolt will clear the axle and can be removed.
Click to expand...
eh, I'm presuming a Pittman type puller to push that outside threaded axle towards car center and out of hub?
I dunno what the other end of the shaft looks like and I'm presuming neither bellows boots have to be removed nor do I have to mess woth the other end of the axle; will this process of pushing axle out of hub have to be reversed later?
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Right on the Mark said:
Why? just put it back in.
Click to expand...
if I cut that t-50 pan head just beyond the head, in the unthreaded segment, reusing it is not an option
 
dnsherrill said:
eh, I'm presuming a Pittman type puller to push that outside threaded axle towards car center and out of hub?
I dunno what the other end of the shaft looks like and I'm presuming neither bellows boots have to be removed nor do I have to mess woth the other end of the axle; will this process of pushing axle out of hub have to be reversed later?
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if I cut that t-50 pan head just beyond the head, in the unthreaded segment, reusing it is not an option
Click to expand...


Axles just SLIDE in. If they get some rust they can be a bugger. But like mentioned they just push out by hand or tap with brass hammer. I use the cut bolt and so do many so its not a "non option" Might be for you but not others. I think I use my car harder then you ever will in a life time.
 
Dan, ROTM is not saying to cut the bolt head off, you just make a flat edge on one side that will allow you to "manuver" it around the axle. I had to do this on my car because no amount of effort would get the driverside axle to let go of the hub. I had to pull it as a unit and use a 20 ton press just to get the axle out.

-Alan
 
aha...crop the pan! I was ready and set to put my sawzall across that puppy- cut the head comletely off- thanx Alan!
 
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-4459-otc-7208a.aspx
That is the kind of puller you would need.

Lobird, after ROTM explained why he did it, I see why that is a valid possibility. If you can't get the 36mm but off, or the shaft won't come out of the. I got that he wanted to cut the head into a D shape, not cut it completely off.

The ROTM sounds good, but then I thought a out it, but ultimately, he still needs to swap the half shaft, so he is kind of back where he started, still needing to push the axle out of the hub.
 
Yea, I was talking to dnsherrill I figured you knew what he meant. I agree too he still has to swap the halfshaft just wanted to make sure he didnt cut the head off the bolt because of a misunderstanding.

-Alan
 
Ah, very good. I would think the best time for the cutting of the lower bolt would be of you were changing out the differential, where you could pull the hub and shaft as an assembly.
 
DieselDan said:
Ah, very good. I would think the best time for the cutting of the lower bolt would be of you were changing out the differential, where you could pull the hub and shaft as an assembly.
Click to expand...

Yep I only do one side to pull diff. I take out 2 lower bolts and swing knuckle with axle up and prop up with piece of 2x4 doing this pulls axle out of pumkin at same time.
 
ready to dive into it, got the tool as a rental from Advance
P7170447_zps225d4c89.jpg

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just push the axle in little-by-little until the bolt clears the underside of the axle?
no need to loosen any bolts at the dif end of the axle?
 
can't free the half shaft from the hub, 'bout ready to crop the bolt head :mad:
 
well that went pretty bad:
cranked on the hub puller press with probably at least 150 ft/lbs but the half axle never moved back out of the hub,
so I used my angle grinder to clip the bolt head, but not enough to remove the bolt, it's still in there
P7170450_zpsf2ac9c90.jpg

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also f'd up and cut the grease boot at the end of the half axle
P7170448_zps6db5360d.jpg

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now what? I think the hub-axle are rusted solid? take the half axle off at the diff
right now I'm just about ready to give up on this :bsflag:
 
dnsherrill said:
well that went pretty bad:
cranked on the hub puller press with probably at least 150 ft/lbs but the half axle never moved back out of the hub,
so I used my angle grinder to clip the bolt head, but not enough to remove the bolt, it's still in there
P7170450_zpsf2ac9c90.jpg

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also f'd up and cut the grease boot at the end of the half axle
P7170448_zps6db5360d.jpg

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now what? I think the hub-axle are rusted solid? take the half axle off at the diff
right now I'm just about ready to give up on this :bsflag:
Click to expand...

Oh man, blank has hit the fan. Wish it worked out better for you.
 
well, I'm kinda thinking it's rusted solid and the half axle- knuckle hub assembly has to be removed anyways, and taken somewhere to be pulled apart with a bigger press?
 
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