dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
then it's leaking from......??
Hub swap/front brake mod
- Thread starter dnsherrill
- Start date
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
check the copper washers around the banjo bolts. mine leak about every time i mess with my brakes.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Like chris mentioned clean area and tighten banjo bolt some more and check for leaks. The leak can also be coming from the piston.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
unbolted it from the spindle- nothing obvious, may be leaking from upper piston given the trail down the bracket...looks really dry around the banjo, and the bleeder....whats the max recommended tork on the BB? if it leaks from around the piston, r/r the piston?
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this is the front pass side, where the metal hose end was modified to fit the caliper...may be related
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this is the front pass side, where the metal hose end was modified to fit the caliper...may be related
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
'check' meaning...?
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to me everything looks good, don't really want to open it again to r/r copper washers that were new when I put them on 3 days ago. But....I don't want to leak either
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I'm taking today off from work:
-drive 40 miles rnd trip to pull parts from a 95
-come back and TRY to find/fix brake fluid leak
-cut 3/4'' of 10 lug studs (front hubs), put front wheels back on
-take it to NTB and wait 2-3 hours for them to align it
OR
go to Carmax and buy a used Cavalier
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Also make sure you use whizzer wheel to cut studs. It will go much faster then your huge cutting monster. Also thread on the thin lug nuts on all studs before cutting. When done cutting chamfer ends of studs with whizzer wheel and then thread off nuts to smooth cut ends.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
went to get it aligned today and got bad news, the drv side rear LCA camber bolt was maxed out and still needed to go more, they got it to 1.25, it should be 0.0.... pulls real hard to the right; undrivable really
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these parts
came from a wrecked mark VIII, a car that got T-boned in the middle of door, totaled....guess which side of the car was hit
:slam
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now I gotta pull the old knuckle from the half shaft and do a rear hub mod in earnest....dam
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these parts
came from a wrecked mark VIII, a car that got T-boned in the middle of door, totaled....guess which side of the car was hit
:slam
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now I gotta pull the old knuckle from the half shaft and do a rear hub mod in earnest....dam
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
or...just use the already re-drilled hub and bearing from the bent knuckle, and put it in my good (original) knuckle?...easy peasy?
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Just do the hub only.
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
Camber will not cause a pull. Also, if your mark is lowered, it will be hard hit the "green" zone on rear camber. I have done many alignments on marks and tbirds, that is relatively normal. As you lower a mark, the camber goes more and more negative.
What did the other side align to? If that knuckle had been hit, I would think you would have toe issues, but camber isn't going to cause a pull, especially on the rear.
Try rotating the tires front to back, bad tires can cause a pull. Leave that knuckle alone, you have a different problem. What is up with the way that it drives that makes it undrivable?
What did the other side align to? If that knuckle had been hit, I would think you would have toe issues, but camber isn't going to cause a pull, especially on the rear.
Try rotating the tires front to back, bad tires can cause a pull. Leave that knuckle alone, you have a different problem. What is up with the way that it drives that makes it undrivable?
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
---the car is not lowered (yet)
---the pass side rear wheel zeroed out, (0.00)
---is the camber at the LCA the only alignment adjustment for the rear wheels?
----the knuckle was not hit directly, the donor car was t-boned right in the middle of the driver's door, now my drivers side rear wheel is the problem
----fwiw, when I first put the new wheel/tire on the rear drv side it looked crooked to the naked eye, but I thought it was an illusion b/c of the different offset
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regarding tire rotation, all 4 are worn pretty evenly, and tires have no effect on how their alignment system reads wheel position? they showed me exactly what was going on, what they had and what they needed- the LCA was pushed out all the way and it wasn't enough...I think the bottom half of the knuckle got pushed inward when the donor car was wrecked
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I'm gonna put the orig 4.25'' hub-knuckle back on with an orig tire and see if it looks different/more straight
---the pass side rear wheel zeroed out, (0.00)
---is the camber at the LCA the only alignment adjustment for the rear wheels?
----the knuckle was not hit directly, the donor car was t-boned right in the middle of the driver's door, now my drivers side rear wheel is the problem
----fwiw, when I first put the new wheel/tire on the rear drv side it looked crooked to the naked eye, but I thought it was an illusion b/c of the different offset
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regarding tire rotation, all 4 are worn pretty evenly, and tires have no effect on how their alignment system reads wheel position? they showed me exactly what was going on, what they had and what they needed- the LCA was pushed out all the way and it wasn't enough...I think the bottom half of the knuckle got pushed inward when the donor car was wrecked
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I'm gonna put the orig 4.25'' hub-knuckle back on with an orig tire and see if it looks different/more straight
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
this car, eh...this KNUCKLE, was definitely slammed into on the driver's side (si?)
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my GOOD side
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I called another shop, they also claimed the LCA to frame camber is the only adjuster for rear alignment. WTH? what are the adjustment points for rear alignment? UCA bushing? shims?
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my GOOD side
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I called another shop, they also claimed the LCA to frame camber is the only adjuster for rear alignment. WTH? what are the adjustment points for rear alignment? UCA bushing? shims?
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
that is a toe problem, not a camber problem.
adjustment is there. most alignment guys don't even look for it cuz they are lazy or something.
adjustment is there. most alignment guys don't even look for it cuz they are lazy or something.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
When I said hub only I meant swap 4.500 hub only into your old spindle.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
wrecked car= wrecked parts= pulls hard to the right
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is removing the 4.5'' hub/bearing from this bent knuckle and pressing it into the orig/STRAIGHT knuckle a job I should take on? can that bearing be re-used after removal?
I read up on it here
----after i get the correct (straight)left knuckle on the car i can re-address leaking brakes: front right and now rear left, both rebuilt by me and appear to be leaking around the piston(s) or maybe b/c of the paint under the bottom banjo copper washers
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is removing the 4.5'' hub/bearing from this bent knuckle and pressing it into the orig/STRAIGHT knuckle a job I should take on? can that bearing be re-used after removal?
I read up on it here
----after i get the correct (straight)left knuckle on the car i can re-address leaking brakes: front right and now rear left, both rebuilt by me and appear to be leaking around the piston(s) or maybe b/c of the paint under the bottom banjo copper washers
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
That sure looks visibly bent.
If you have a press and proper tooling, it's a straightforward job. Pressing the old one out is pretty simple. You do need to support the knuckle properly to press in the hub correctly and make sure it seats in all the way.
If you have a press and proper tooling, it's a straightforward job. Pressing the old one out is pretty simple. You do need to support the knuckle properly to press in the hub correctly and make sure it seats in all the way.
DieselDan
Dedicated LVC Member
That is the rear toe eccentric. It butts up against the rear exhaust pipes.
That does look really out of whack. Did you see any of the pictures of the car they came off of? Did you verify that the collision really didn't hit the wheel. I would think if the wheel was hit hard enough to bend the knuckle that the wheel would be damaged too.
Did the bolts go straight thru the bushings or did you have to fight It at all? I would also think if it was bent, you would have had to fight your non-wrecked control arms.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
yea, I saw the donor car, I pulled other parts from it and someone else pulled these parts later on.....that car got HAMMERED in the collision, right in the middle of the drv door, the front and rear fenders on that side were not visibly affected ...the lady Mark VIII driver walked away unhurt which surprised me...
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when I was putting that knuckle back on I kinda thought something looked screwy and not straight, but I just wanted to keep moving fwd.
was it a 'struggle' to get it together? haha...yea, most car repair tasks I take on seem like a struggle and getting the lower bolts around the outboard end is def a 3-handed chore...I'm not a real mechanic! :shifty:
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when I was putting that knuckle back on I kinda thought something looked screwy and not straight, but I just wanted to keep moving fwd.
was it a 'struggle' to get it together? haha...yea, most car repair tasks I take on seem like a struggle and getting the lower bolts around the outboard end is def a 3-handed chore...I'm not a real mechanic! :shifty:
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
And again you don't have to pull the bearings. Just push out both your hubs ONLY and put the 4.500 hub in your old good knuckle.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
right about now the tech is prolly still pissed...thus far he hasn't been able press that shaft thru the knuckle.He's in a fully equipped shop with a (20 ton?) hydraulic press...
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they sell tires- so they will get the cv shaft out, then do the switcheroo with hubs/knuckles (HUBS ONLY), then I'll put it back on the car...
then get them to do an alignment I never would have needed if I'd had a straight knuckle to start with...in principle doing this job should not affect alignment?... they're ignorant to the camber adj (eccentric bushing) at the rear UCA inside bolt, so I'll inform them of that with a printout of this
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just for hits and giggles, in case they CANNOT separate the shaft and knuckle, I'll need another rear drv knuckle...what cars have the same part?
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they sell tires- so they will get the cv shaft out, then do the switcheroo with hubs/knuckles (HUBS ONLY), then I'll put it back on the car...
then get them to do an alignment I never would have needed if I'd had a straight knuckle to start with...in principle doing this job should not affect alignment?... they're ignorant to the camber adj (eccentric bushing) at the rear UCA inside bolt, so I'll inform them of that with a printout of this
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just for hits and giggles, in case they CANNOT separate the shaft and knuckle, I'll need another rear drv knuckle...what cars have the same part?
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh yeah I forgot about your stuck axle.