how would you invest 5k for more hp?

Your block is better then the aluminator. The Teksid is one of the worlds greatest engin blocks. For much less then that you could get all forged goodies for your block and be able to make/withstand more HP. :)

Also there are two listings on Craigslist (not sure what state) for new in the crate still Mark VIII complete motors for $1500. If I had the cash then there is no doubt I would have bought one...... even to just have it as a spare!
 
i havent had the chance to talk to the guy at the machine shop yet....im just wondering though, wouldnt it just be much cheaper to buy a cobra motor or like one of those that you seen on craigs laser then it would be to do a build? on the link above these guys are saying on a stock cobra motor you can get those numbers with their kit. well if i bought one of those motors off ebay(not the aluminator) the 99 to 03 cobra motors,i seen 1 company is selling them remanufatured for 2600 and another 1k for all the other stuff that comes with it. I just am wondering If it wouldnt be more simple to go some route like that and it might even be cheaper.
 
While you can find 03/04 Cobra motors for $5000-$6000 you are adding an engine block that weighs 74lbs more then your aluminum block. You will already be adding 150lbs worth of blower and cooling to the nose. I dont like weight and try to avoid adding any to the nose of the car cause I love flying through the turns and extra weight is gonna hurt that.

96-01 Cobra motors only have forged cranks. The rods and pistons are the same crap we have. What I would do.... and what I am doing is locate a 96+ Cobra crank, some 03/04 rods and some foged pistons then have my block machined. The parts are about $1400 and the machine shop will charge another $250-$400. Then with some titanium valves and higher rate valve springs I will have a motor that can handle 1000 rwhp with no problem so my plans of 500 rwhp wont hurt it in the least.
So if you had a spare Teksid block you could get forged internals and have it machined and installed for about $1800. Add another $500 for some "C" heads and another $500 for springs and valves of good quality. Then have the motor assembled and the cams lined up for another $500. You will be in it about $3300 and be ready to slap any "C" head blower setup you want and have an engine that is damn near bullet proof. You could throw a KB Mamoth blower on it and make 800 rwhp all day long and never have to wonder if it will hold together. :)
 
this is a copy of a email i got alittle bit ago and this guy says there is a set up that will fit are car?

Greetings Buddy,



Thank you for contacting us.



The people on the forum are almost correct, if you wanted to put the blower off of a 03-04 cobra you would have to change the heads and intake to 03-04 cobra heads and intake, but kenne bell does make a blower for a 96-98 cobra that would fit right on your engine or you can go with a centrifugal supercharger.



Please feel free to contact me if you have any additional questions.




I feel silly asking this but what exactly is a centrifugal?
 
597-260x-cobra1.jpg
 
it is a turbo style supercharger that builds boost at higher rpms,instead of having lots of boost down low it needs to "spool up" to build boost, like a turbo.
 
vortech, pro charger...a belt driven turbo....snail, a different type of s/c all together. I don't see you getting s/c'd for 5k, but i might be wrong. The other thing to remember is that even after the s/c your going to need a stronger trans and a better driveshaft along with all the little things needed to make it work pushing your budget even farther. That being said, if your motor runs fine see my earlier post. updated tranny-4:10's- track lock -driveshaft-good tune. Then if there is money or you want more get a cobra intake and a centifical s/c. Or get a c-head motor to drop in with a different gear set(3.55-3:73) then get a roots blower if you have the money. Either way make the motor decision then build the rest.
 
ok well i know i dont want a centrifugal thingy majigy...

laser will that be the look yours will have when completed?
 
no, a kb looks like his sig pic or mine. a twin screw sits on top of the engine and replaces the intake.
 
lsc8 said:
vortech, pro charger...a belt driven turbo....snail, a different type of s/c all together. I don't see you getting s/c'd for 5k, but i might be wrong. The other thing to remember is that even after the s/c your going to need a stronger trans and a better driveshaft along with all the little things needed to make it work pushing your budget even farther. That being said, if your motor runs fine see my earlier post. updated tranny-4:10's- track lock -driveshaft-good tune. Then if there is money or you want more get a cobra intake and a centifical s/c. Or get a c-head motor to drop in with a different gear set(3.55-3:73) then get a roots blower if you have the money. Either way make the motor decision then build the rest.
Click to expand...


oh i allready figured i will be way past 5k..its ok i got it....I should have made the title 10k instead of 5...:D

yes I am going to buy alot of new suspension parts,stabilizers,bushings,rubbers,gears,trac lok,tranny rebuil kit with prepurchased accumalator valve body,higher stall,maybe 3.5" aluminum drive shaft i might be forgetting more. just getting ideas on what to do. I wont make a decision on the big money getty up n go thingy majigy untill i talk to my machine guy monday. but if what laser said upstairs is tru than that might be cheaper(MIGHT) than just buying something thats drop in and turn key.
 
My forged long block was around 4000 with arp head and main studs a used cobra crank, diamond pistons, and i beam rods. That also included the hot tanking, balancing, etc. The stock b heads got a basic valve job, and new beehive springs and retainers, with 96 cobra cams.
 
All said and done i will tell you the same thing i told laser before he started....if I were doing it again there is no doubt that I would use c heads....Besides the fact that they are a better head, there is also unlimited aftermarket support for them. Where as there is almost nothing out there for a b head.
 
yeah then by the time to figure everything else into it you got what $5,500 or more? Thats what I am afraid of. I am not looking to get more than 450rwhp tops. And I will have to pay the guy to do it all for me if i build.unless i can work out a deal on some body/paint work of some kind.And I really want to be able to drive the thing when its all done before winter(I live in Illinois).I am not a go to the grag strip every weekend kinda guy.I just want something that will compete with most street cars out there. Thats why I figured just buying a crate turn key brand new or buying a 99 to 03 cobra used with low mileage or remanufactured then doing bolt ons on top of that might be better considering it being easier to do and the speed of it all.
 
I would decide on a motor then do the tranny gears etc. If you decide to keep your motor your good to go. If not you can still drive your car this year and build the motor this winter and swap it. I feel that a stock b head mark viii with 4:10's etc is an awesome street car and just a blast to drive. Gears and a stahl really wake these cars up...plus its within a realistic budget and still easy to work on and maintain. I would urge you to ride in a mark with at least gears and a tune before you make a drastic decision.
 
yeah keeping my stock motor is out of the question. I am going to be painting the thing while i have the motor out and 1 of my goals outside of getting to the 400-450rwhp range was to get my engine and bay area snazzy. I think the way I am leaning is buying something already built or remanufactured just because it will be new or near new and very clean. My question to everyone is if i decide to do a actual swap with a "cobra" or "mach" motor what all is involved on the electronics part of it all? will i have to change out my stock ecm? One of the things that I really dont care for at all on our stock engines is that ugly @ss intake. Would much more prefer to have something thats easier to keep clean maybe polished.
 
How hard would it be to convert over to to like a 351w built up motor?
Would it be more expensive than going the other route?
what all would be involed in doing something like this and has anyone else out ther done it?
 
BuddyL said:
ok well i know i dont want a centrifugal thingy majigy...

laser will that be the look yours will have when completed?
Click to expand...
Mine is done and it looks like my avatar. My progress thread has much better pics though.
lsc8 said:
All said and done i will tell you the same thing i told laser before he started....if I were doing it again there is no doubt that I would use c heads....Besides the fact that they are a better head, there is also unlimited aftermarket support for them. Where as there is almost nothing out there for a b head. .
Click to expand...
BuddyL, that is good advice there. I got my blower pretty cheap but needed a lot of extra crap. After it was all said and done I could have bought all the 03/04 stuff needed and made more HP with less boost. The only extra cost would have been having the new heads cams timed and that would have been $500+. I could have sold my heads though to help offset it.
BuddyL said:
How hard would it be to convert over to to like a 351w built up motor?
Would it be more expensive than going the other route?
what all would be involed in doing something like this and has anyone else out ther done it?
Click to expand...

I am about to not like you. :mad:

Dont throw a freakin pushrod in that car. Look, get forged internals for your block. It will be the strongest motor you could ever have. To throw forged internals in it, get "C" heads, a ported 03/04 Eaton and an Afco heat exchanger and Cobra lower plenum you will be in it about $5600 or less, more so if you use 99/01 heads. Running it at 14 psi will give the motor about 540 -560 hp. Thats around 420 rwhp. With a good TC and a trans cooler then the trans will do a good job of holding up. If you upgrade to a 98 trans with those mods then you can handle it no problem. I know at least 20 people with mustangs and the auto running 450ish rwhp and have no problems with them and all the trans mods they have are coolers and TC and J-mods.
Use $1500 to upgrade the brakes and chasis reinforcements, another $800 for gears and trak loc plus install and you will have a very fast and fun Mark VIII.
 
ha ha! +1 on the I am about to not like you.
I figured that would get someones attention. Man heres my problem.you had jamie build your engine right? If not then other "friends". I aint got no one around here like that. All I do have is my old @ss uncle Jim.He aint gonna want no part of any build on this thing. Therefore I would have to pay what 50-70 a hour to have someone do it for me. The way I understand it after parts and paying someone to do it for me I will have way more that that price you just said and I wont even be no where near everything I want to do. So the only way I can keep it as simple as possible for dear old uncle jimmy and recieve his help is to buy something allready built used low limeage or remanufatured. What if I bought something like this http://www.discountbodyparts.com/ca... Auto Parts)&Ntt= remanufactured long block then did the eaton,kb,or vortech what kind of gains would i be looking at compared to what i have stock? because if its decent enough then its way easier and cheaper for us to complete and I will most likely have plenty enough left over for all the other upgrades.
 
For a gen1, swapping over to a c-head engine is not fun. I finished a "from the ground up" engine harness in 2-10 hour shifts. But the people here who know me will tell you I work quickly. Almost nothing will line up, and alot of the connectors are not correct for the newer engine.

2nd gen MAY be slighty easier.
 
The prices I quoted was having someone build the motor but with you slapping the blower stuff on yourself.
Jamie didnt build my motor, he sold me a used engine cause I blew mine up running 17.4 psi with no intercooler on stock internals. Bad news.
I will have a machine shop machine my old motor and I will build it myself then have Gearheads do the cam timing for about $500.
 
well that flat out sucks! as i said before i wont proceed with nothing till i talk with the cats at the speed shop. Im afraid as i have heard from others around here you bring these guys a motor to build and you bought all your own parts it gets put to the back of the line.They like for you to order through them most likely for the mark up charges.My biggest fear is after mark up and paying in shop labor costs I will have a ton of cash before i ever get to do anything else.Now take into consideration having my uncle help me,well hell thats free if not then just a trade off of some kind.Like i said before he sucks at electronics and modulars in general.he never got around to understanding the whole "modular" format.Now I was leaning to just buying a lower mileage actual mustang engine or possibly a remanufatured one but i sure as hell dont want 2 10 hour shifts of playing with connectors and wiring.You guys have a far more better understanding on our engines then my uncle and i do and its alittle easier for you to do.what would hard for you would be a nightmare for me or jim. Is beginning to sound like I am going to have to settle for my ugly @ss intake no matter what I do just to make it a simple swap for Jim and I to complete.At this point I would give 70% of my collision/paint experience for just 30% of more engine building experience.
 
I will just wait till monday and go in and talk to these guys and see what they can do for me.Hopefully they can give me the 400 or more i so desire and a fair cost and allow me to have funds for the rest of the car.
 
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