Franks 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC

Found the first "weird thing" in the car - under the dash is a cut and tapped wire. I've had a issue come up twice now where its given me a transmission pressure solenoid error (pending code only) but, then it goes away.

Had an "ah ha!" moment tonight, and took a look - and the wire that was spliced is for the pressure solenoid. Going to take a look at how it was done, and see if that might be the reason why it is randomly occurring.

Received the new backup camera today - now, to get it installed! Wiring was run about 75% of the way on Sunday, need to tape the reverse light (power for camera and trigger to the receiver) and get the wiring into the trunk lid. Camera will replace the current trunk key lock. Camera is a bit smaller than expected (why can't any seller give GOOD measurements) but, I'm thinking using a piece of ABS to mount the camera will allow it to work out perfectly!

Rest of the parts for new mufflers was ordered - doing the Pypes EVT-29 tips, and the Pypes adjustable hangers - right now, its all going to be clamped in (band clamps) as I'd love to upgrade the rest of the exhaust some day.
 
Trunk lock camera idea didn't go 100% as planned - didn't realize the angle and how far out the lock mechanism went. Drilled out the rivets, and then with some very careful work and I was able to actually pop out the mechanism from the inside of the lock (carefully removed the cover and then slid out the mech)

I think I'll be able to glue 3/4" PVC cap over the mechanism, then mount the camera into that. That should mount the camera almost against the neon assembly. Photos to follow at some point!
 
All-in-all not to bad, want to do a little more reshaping on the cover I made for the lock mechanism(if I thin down the outside a bit, it will fit a bit tighter) but, boy, it turned out looking CLEAN!

74316E7F-84D9-41BD-855A-3A7D8377944E.jpg
 
Best benefit - everything was cleanly disassembled (the lock cover was a pain to get the tabs holding it on bent out) I could remove it and return to stock easily. The actual metal portion of the lock wasn't touched or changed. The cap itself is a plumbing cap, and just needed a bit of sanding to fit VERY snugly over the factory lock assembly.

0A8D6D8E-8AD6-4C4D-8CBC-44D1E2AEE69B.jpg
 
chris2523 said:
nice. i hope your trunk hinge wiring never goes bad. but very nice.
Click to expand...

Someone attempted to break into my t-bird around 2003 or so - I was lazy, so, I simply welded a plate over it to shave the trunk lock - 2014 and it still works just fine!

Worst case scenario, remove rear seat, and use a long screw driver (or a piece of metal rod with the end flattened) to pop the lock (the manual lock lever is simply a flat blade) - I've left small hole in the trunk lid cover in the right spot just in case.
 
Few more things to get in!
E1EC2139-0DFD-41B7-8EBD-ED74E7F5C2D2.jpg


Just a rough fit idea - hopefully have more figured out shortly!

Going to be installed with band clamps for now, as I don't want to weld until I have a full setup done.
 
You have pride of craft, Frank. The work is meticulous. Where are the steel springs going? My '98 LSC may be a candidate for a change soon. I am shortly going to finesse adapters for my lights, as my neighbor just purchased a metal lathe for billiards cue manufacturing, and he will be gone for a month while I feed and watch the dog, and I will have free reign to work in his shop. Where do I buy Delrin blanks?
 
Finished up the stereo install today, not as much overall done - taking it easy. Finished by installing the drivers side speaker and tweeter, and tuning and adjusting everything properly. I can crank it way up with almost zero distortion (in other words - distortion occurs when its way to ungodly loud.) Wiring is completed - and the 0 gauge power wire is fully in the factory wire channels.

IMG_1648.jpg


Ran into one little issue, so, a call to Rockford Fosgate is in order for Monday (confirmed something I thought I'd heard on the speakers some time back.) Worked around it for now, so that's good!

Started on part of the alarm install - was able to mount the DEI 535T window control module, and start getting some of the wires into that. It does require some cutting of some of the factory wires to the window motors (but, a benefit is it gives one touch up and down for both windows.)

GOPR0151.jpg


The amps are mounted up very tight against the rear deck. Managed to use the GoPro to get a nice up shot to give an example to show the final fitment. I do have a Rockford 3.sixty processor I might still install, but, not 100% sure yet.
 
Another project is almost done!! I need to make some adjustments to the position of the right tip, but, all in all, not bad. For the perfect fitment, I need to have a shop make a bent piece of pipe, but, turned out quite well. I used the Pypes tips with the Magnaflow mufflers, but, made my own hangers based on stainless band clamps.

[video=youtube;S9_TsQPDRcw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9_TsQPDRcw[/video]

Also think a glitch ballast might be in my very near future.
 
Been a while since I've posted an update! My neons been fine since the last time I thought there was an issue - might need to check for some area where some moisture might be getting in.

Had a bit of a cold - so - no major work done lately, but, took some time today and finished up recovering the sunvisors. They really are not that hard to do, just a little cutting, trimming and tucking! Quick steaming after done (helps remove any wrinkles) and voila!

Before:
IMG_1669.jpg


Halfway done:
IMG_1676.jpg


After:
IMG_1677.jpg
 
I want to redo my original visors too. My. Material is in perfect shape, but it kinda sags like the adhesive has let go.

When you took your material off, does it look like it can be done without ruining it??
 
Sapperfire said:
I want to redo my original visors too. My. Material is in perfect shape, but it kinda sags like the adhesive has let go.

When you took your material off, does it look like it can be done without ruining it??
Click to expand...

If its anything like mine - should be a snap together plastic visor - there are teeth inside the edges that hold the material.

I use a set like this to tuck the material into the edges where it can grab the teeth. I also was able to slide the tool in and twist to pop the visor apart and remove the fabric in one piece.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

I'd grab a junkyard one from a tBird, Crown Vic, etc (pretty much all that have lights) and practice on that. This was my fourth one, and the best one of all of them.

IMG_1674.jpg


The replacement fabric is simply headliner material.
 
One more on the factory cover that was removed (first one I've got off in one piece)

IMG_1672.jpg
 
Did you use any kind of spray adhesive on them? I don't like that my material is loose

I've got a set of Black '96 Double visors in her right now, but they're coming out once I fix mine. I don't really need the double ones.
 
Sapperfire said:
Did you use any kind of spray adhesive on them? I don't like that my material is loose

I've got a set of Black '96 Double visors in her right now, but they're coming out once I fix mine. I don't really need the double ones.
Click to expand...

No adhesive - its simply stretched around the visor.
 
Yeah, there's no adhesive holding the material to the visor. It's just stretched tight.

If you have a garage with an electric garage door opener, or plan to have one in the future, this would be the perfect time to install a Homelink garage door opener into the visor. It's not too hard to do, since the plastic has little cut-away lines molded into already, from the factory.

Here's one I did back in 2008 for my 97. Still looks good. A picture from my for sale thread, with a set of 98 ones too...

Click here :p

attachment.jpg
 
Not much - new valve covers, some spare parts from the local pick n pull. Managed to grab a CCRM, steering column with MFS, rear seat lights and door handle gaskets.

Bought some valve covers, and started cleaning them up.

170D3827-7CF6-464E-B26B-D56BA4F2D3D8.jpg


93A53E96-9588-4557-8DEE-65F19EFA431E.jpg


Also working in LED bulbs for the cruise control buttons - first try looks OK, but not in love yet. I'm wondering if full replacement circuit board for LED lamps might be nice (I'd have to have multiples made if folks were interested)

16BC1A9F-B5A8-45F8-808F-8A337B13C79D.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 113 (members: 0, guests: 113)
Back
Top