Do I want this??? C/L listing

not that it matters, since the engine is gone, but wasn't '94 the year that there were alot of problems with the valves or something?
 
No I believe that was only in some 95s which had bad valve springs..they had a tendency to break..not sure what the difference was between those and the rest though.
 
Personally, I wouldn't be interested in it at all for his asking price. I'm assuming since you're wanting it as a parts car that it's like the parts car I have that was hit on the driver's door (not t-boned, but the car hydroplaned at a fairly high rate of speed and slid into a tree. Driver didn't have a scratch, though; beam in the door saved him, IMO). I got the title with it, but didn't even bother getting it notorized or even signed over to me. There's no saving that car, otherwise I would have tried, since it was an exact clone to my black '93. I don't know what the one you're looking at looks like, but with mine the door was DESTROYED (door wasn't even on the car when I got it; it was lying on the back seat in pieces) and the damage went INTO the car and started to crunch the driver's seat. The beam in the door was bent at an almost 90* angle.

Before that, the car was in decent condition. I wouldn't call it "clean" (I met the kid in the parking lot of the local movie theater one night before he wrecked the car and I was telling him about the black one I used to have, and after that, he'd text me when he needed advice about the car... until he texted me and asked me to buy it cause he'd wrecked it...). It definitely wasn't in anywhere near the condition I kept my '93 in, even though mine had 60k more miles on it when I wrecked it, but I could tell the kid was at least trying to keep it nice. It also had around 120k on it, and came with the suspension and engine (great, smooth running engine), and, in the end, I paid much less for the car. I honestly didn't want another parts car unless it had good driver's side parts that I could use on my '93, but the kid kept texting me. I tried to get him to let me take a few parts off the car and pay him for it before he took it to the crusher so he could make a little extra money, but he didn't want to do that. So for a week or two, he kept texting me, and I kept telling him that I'd like to help, but I didn't need another parts car and that he could get money for it at a junkyard until he eventually wore me down and lowered his price enough that I couldn't pass it up.

For the car you're describing... personally, I might give $300 for it if the interior's good. We Mark VIII guys aren't rich, and most parts aren't very valuable, frankly. The most valuable part on the car would have been the engine, and that's gone. You might be able to sell the seats for a decent amount, if they're all in good condition. Some guy in eastern NC is trying to sell 2 black front seats from a '93 Mark in not-so-great condition (no rips I could see in the pics, but they're scratched up pretty badly) for $200 FOR EACH SEAT (aka $400 for the pair)! I doubt he'll get that much, but I paid $250 a couple years ago for a complete set of black '93 Mark VIII seats (rear seat included) in very good condition, and I feel like I got a good deal. If your seats are in good condition, you could probably sell them for at least that, if there's anyone local who would be interested. If you play it smart, you might be able to get the parts you want to keep for free or almost free if you can get the guy to sell you the car at a decent enough price that you can part it out and sell what you don't need to make your money back. Just be aware, if this is your first parts car, not every good part on the car is going to sell quickly. You might have to find somewhere to keep the car or parts for a while, while you wait for a buyer, or you may have to take the car to the crusher (when you're done with it) with good parts still on it if you don't have anywhere to keep the parts.
 
thx for the input
I wonder how much the tranny with 120k on it is worth...I may just try and get the grill, lights, brow, and tranny....mine has a front seal leak and 173.5k on it, but is shifting fine, for now
 
thx for the input
I wonder how much the tranny with 120k on it is worth...I may just try and get the grill, lights, brow, and tranny....mine has a front seal leak and 173.5k on it, but is shifting fine, for now

Up here, prices for 4R70W's are all over the place. For an older model with similar mileage, I've seen anywhere from $100 to $300. Personally, I wouldn't want to pay $300 for a stock 4R70W with over 100k, but then again, I'm cheap. ;)
 
this is not a C/L listing...but I met a guy at the local AZ with a wrecked 94 Mark...T-boned at driver door, rear 1/4.....120k miles; clean interior and ext where it's not hit; the engine is gone;
tranny is in the trunk and apparently in good shape, possibly rebuilt if he has documentation
....front clip is clean, rear lights are good; interior is tan, and clean...coils have been removed; a hub swap was done-5x4.5'' with stock brakes and bored rotors
....for $650 he'll drop it in my driveway.....hmmm
should I do it?

I have a three week vacation coming up. If you want this car in DC (I stole the link :)). I'll show up at your door with this car. Santa! :D I'll sell it to you for 1500 plus the bus ticket from CLT to DC and the bus ticket from ATL to CLT...course I get to drive it here (CLT) and sleep one night or two and then drop it off in your driveway...I am getting into this stuff!

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/3449326437.html
 
How difficult is the seat removal...Just wondering because there is or was a black on black 94 that i pulled parts off of at the Charlotte pull-a-part. Thanks, Scott
 
How difficult is the seat removal...Just wondering because there is or was a black on black 94 that i pulled parts off of at the Charlotte pull-a-part. Thanks, Scott

Oh, you shouldn't have said that. I'm headed to Charlotte pull-a-part right now for those seats! ;) jk

Seriously, it's not that bad. Like Markviiiedrea said, it's easy if the car has power, but I know from my experiences at pull-a-part, I've never seen a car with a battery in it. When I got my seats (got them from a guy in Huntersville, actually, just north of Charlotte), when I showed up to pick them up, they were still in the car, and the seller and I pulled all the seats out in about 10 minutes without a problem. You might want to read up on here how to pull the seats, so you know what you're doing in advance (I think someone on here was recently asking about how to pull the back seat, so there's a recent good post on that I know). Good luck! I hope the seats are still in it. I know every time I've made the trip to Charlotte to get parts, it's been a bust because everything I was looking for was either damaged or already taken, but, then again, I've only been there a couple times.
 
Oh, you shouldn't have said that. I'm headed to Charlotte pull-a-part right now for those seats! ;) jk

Seriously, it's not that bad. Like Markviiiedrea said, it's easy if the car has power, but I know from my experiences at pull-a-part, I've never seen a car with a battery in it. When I got my seats (got them from a guy in Huntersville, actually, just north of Charlotte), when I showed up to pick them up, they were still in the car, and the seller and I pulled all the seats out in about 10 minutes without a problem. You might want to read up on here how to pull the seats, so you know what you're doing in advance (I think someone on here was recently asking about how to pull the back seat, so there's a recent good post on that I know). Good luck! I hope the seats are still in it. I know every time I've made the trip to Charlotte to get parts, it's been a bust because everything I was looking for was either damaged or already taken, but, then again, I've only been there a couple times.

They are a little bit of a PITA because of the bolts underneath the seat rail. If the rear ones are covered you can be there quite some time.
 
They are a little bit of a PITA because of the bolts underneath the seat rail. If the rear ones are covered you can be there quite some time.

Yea, I can imagine if you're working with a car without a battery, which I assume will be the case with this car. I was just talking about the seats I've pulled out of cars that had power to the seats. Plus, the time we get the seats out in 10 minutes, we were working with portable power wrenches. :D When I pull seats at home, I'm just working with old-school conventional ratchets. Takes a little longer, but still a pretty easy job as long as you've got power to the seats.
 
I take a jump box with me to the junkyard. That way I know what I'm buying works (if the key is in the car). However, you don't need the key for the seats. Also, I have a set of 94 black seats if anyone is interested.
 
this is not a C/L listing...but I met a guy at the local AZ with a wrecked 94 Mark...T-boned at driver door, rear 1/4.....120k miles; clean interior and ext where it's not hit; the engine is gone;
gonna meet him tomorrow, he pulled the grill, headlights and corner lights, chrome brow....will take $100 for all that; now to scavenge what's left...
suggestions?
VRCM?EATC?bezzle? rotary headlight switch? what else?
 
gonna meet him tomorrow, he pulled the grill, headlights and corner lights, chrome brow....will take $100 for all that; now to scavenge what's left...
suggestions?
VRCM?EATC?bezzle? rotary headlight switch? what else?

Anything & everything you can get your hands on. You own a Mark VIII. Everything you mentioned tends to stop working at some point. Might as well have 'em.
 
Like I said, I see used good used ones up here go anywhere from $100-300. Being that it's a 94 model transmission and assuming it hasn't been rebuilt or had any work done to it, I'd try to stay on the low end of that, personally. Maybe offer him $100 for it and see what he counters with (if he doesn't accept your offer), and just see where the negotiations lead you. I think $100-200 would be a decent price, as long as you trust him that it's a good working transmission with no issues.
 
I'll offer $100 for the tranny, maybe I can use it as credit if/when mine needs rebuilding...I'm going today.....hope to get the wiper motor and EATC assuming they are compatible with my 96 (parts car is a 94)
I've not pulled the wiper motor before...any tips? arms, cowl, motor assembly out?
 
I'll offer $100 for the tranny, maybe I can use it as credit if/when mine needs rebuilding...I'm going today.....hope to get the wiper motor and EATC assuming they are compatible with my 96 (parts car is a 94)
I've not pulled the wiper motor before...any tips? arms, cowl, motor assembly out?

You have to pull the cowl then you can see the motor. You have to take out the bolts for the assembly the motor is sitting in. Then you have to unbolt the motor from that assembly and move the whole deal towards the passenger side. At some point you will be able to pull the motor out from underneath the assembly. The reverse, to reassemble this PITA is tricky. You may have wiring problems too but we'll get to that later.
 
well, in this case removing the wiper motor was a breeze...no hood, no engine!
....
-just got back, it was a decent score, for $300 I got:
headlights, grill, side marker lights, chrome brow, VRCM, radiator fan, wiper motor, wiper arms, MF switch, rotary headlight sw, panel dim/ auto lamp sw's and trim around those; shifter beezle, soft button EATC, bezzle around stereo/eatc,
AND the tranny rebuilt about 20k miles ago ago...he already had pulled almost all this stuff except the VRCM and the wiper motor!
-only downside? I put the tranny in my trunk (that f_cK*r is heavy!) and when I pulled it out the TC came loose and dumped about 1/2 quart oil in my trunk...
there are some big blue strut bushings that look almost new, almost all the front end suspension has less than 20k on it, (coils are gone)... he's putting the 4.6 motor in a GT but can sell the IMRC's which work...
 
Dnsherril, sounds like you didn't do too bad. The transmission alone should be worth $300 if it works. If it's rebuilt like he says it is, even better! :cool:




No I believe that was only in some 95s which had bad valve springs..they had a tendency to break..not sure what the difference was between those and the rest though.

The newer model Mark8s have a beehive designed valve spring which is less susceptible to valve float within the operating range of the engine's rpms. Essentially, you can get more rpms safely out of the newer valve spring setup than you could on the old style springs.
 
yes. 96-98 had the beehives. safe at more RPM. has to do with harmonics.
i have heard about the bad run of valve springs in 95. although not everyone believes it.
 
Dnsherril, sounds like you didn't do too bad. The transmission alone should be worth $300 if it works. If it's rebuilt like he says it is, even better! :cool:
I started out just wanting that grill, (mine has been missing a tooth for about 3 years) which is in VERY GOOD condition....the other stuff is gravy...best part is the kid's dad, who builds cars there, pulled everything but the VRCM...apparently all of the front suspension (ball joints etc) was replaced about 20k ago...the kid has but doen't need the IMRC's which hold VAC
 

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