DieselDan's 94 Champagne/Black Progress Thread!

SOOO, it's been too long since I have updated this thread so I figured now was a good time. I haven't done much, but what I have done has been documented in some of my other threads.

3 weeks ago my transmission went out. I installed that transmission (a 97) when I bought the car at 86k miles. The car is going on 170k now, so I'd say we had a good run. That transmission was j-modded and I loved it, but after I got the tune, it was just a touch too aggressive for me, but I lived with it. Anyway, after some extensive research, I decided it was to the JY I would go, to pick out a new transmission. I checked pretty much every 98-02ish car that would have a 4r70w to see if it "looked" nice... No leaks, basically. I decided finally on a transmission from a 2001 Mustang GT. the car was hit very hard in the right front and would not allow me to drop the exhaust because of it. So I decided to drop the subframe and take the transmission out that way.

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The transmission was clean, dry, and had a black pan... Which suggested to me that it might be a reman at some point. I grabbed the transmission and the torque converter.
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I took it home and disassembled it slightly to do the j-mod and replace some springs and accumulators. I also installed a new pump seal, tail shaft seal and tail shaft housing gasket. That non sense about leaving springs out? Forget that, I installed new springs in all 3 spots. I'm not leaving any out, it's firm enough already.

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I'm not sure how many here have encountered this, but the j-mod procedure calls for machinists numbered bits. In the past I have just used fractional bits to get the closest size. I always would err on the side of a smaller bit, when the next bigger bit called for was too big.

The next night I installed the transmission by myself on the garage floor. Took about 4 hours since I had my fuel line debacle...

I swapped all of the solenoids in the 2001 back to the 94s wired style. So the installation was straight forward otherwise.

Well, other than the >2000 transmission have an updated tail shaft that is stronger, but it has 8 teeth on the speedometer gear, where a pre2001 trans will have 7 teeth... After a certain year, there are no teeth at all on the output shaft, so be careful if you are ever pulling one from a yard.


This caused my car, with 3:73s, 235 55r 16s, and a purple speedometer gear to read about 10 MPH off.


This brings us to the next project. Installing a module to correct the speedometer. I installed the Dakota Digital SGI-5. You can see my thread here: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=88403

It breaks down all of the steps needed to install it on a 94 Mark. I would assume all first gens would be the same.

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All for less than $90 shipped from Summit Racing.

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After calibrating it, I mounted the module under the panel in the center of the dash that has the trip computer controls on it, incase I need to fine tune it for any reason. But for now, installing bigger wheels or anything like that will no longer be a concern with this puppy. It's dead on accurate to a GPS.

That is all I have for now... There is more to come. I scored some nice parts at the JunkYard so we'll see where that takes me!

Some nice Aluminum spring locators from a Sprung Mark...
Pair of nice Mustang Calipers with new Duralast Gold pads.
Full set of SuperCoupe ARC shocks and springs. I specifically keep not calling them struts for Thaywood ;)
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Are you ready for the increased ride height with those springs? If I recall kstromberg used supercoupe springs on his silver mark and it put it in 4x4 mode. Not sure if he had SC shocks also..could have been tokicos..but that shouldn't have a factor on ride height if the shock is the same length. No offense kstromberg..just pointing it out.
 
Just looked it up, he used tokico blues up front and konis in the rear with super coupe springs on all four corners..rears had perches and isolators however.
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Well, the springs I have are aged, so I am hopeful that they have settled a bit.
 
I was wondering what would happen if I just hooked these rear shocks to the factory wiring for the old ARCs our cars had. I need to look it up in the Mark wiring books.

I have been brain storming a bit more on this... My car did have the rear ARC shocks from the factory. I removed the solenoids but all the wiring is still there. I'll have to find the module, but it would be cool to find the input that would firm the shocks... Wire a parallel circuit to the fronts and use that input as the "switch" to allow them to switch from soft/firm...


I am now intrigued!
 
Hey guys, Time for an UPDATE!

A few months back I was having issues with my air suspension... Front was leaking down, and intermittently, so would the rear. So, being the cheap a$$ I am, I hit the junk yard!

Since my car already had Bilstein rear shocks, the rear was very firm but that front was way too soft, I really kind of hated it, especially with the front and rear 1 1/4" sway bars. I found a set of Supercoupe ARC front shocks in decent condition that I decided to use. Anyway, they turned out to work perfectly, the adjustability in them still works. I had heard sometime they go super rock hard when they go bad, but these seem to be fine. The rear ARC shocks were no good though, so I stuck with the cobra shocks in the rear.

The ride is definitely firm, but I LOVE IT. The car handles SO much better. If you are thinking about ditching your air ride, consider picking up some Supercoupe ARC shocks in the junkyard.

The ride height is a tiny bit high, but nothing crazy.

HOWEVER, that leads us to the next mod...
 
I have all of the stuff to do the exhaust, but I had really set my heart on getting some better brakes. All that handling improvement and no way to improve the stopper, I decided I needed to work on that!

It wasn't exactly in the budget, or so I thought... But then it became one of those "the planets aligned" kind of things...

I had already bought a set of the mustang GT PBR calipers, and was going to do that upgrade, but wasn't really thrilled about it, but then these practically fell into my lap for $150.
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Followed by these for $208 at the JY! They all have the same tread, and I'd say are about 90% life left.
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So, I decided to put it all together, but needed a way to put the wheels on the back...
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The above pictures were a lot of work, those hubs are TOUGH! I needed to re-sharpen the drill bits a couple times, but no big deal. Took about 3 hours to do them all, because it is SLOW work.

I do not have the lug studs or nuts yet, so they aren't on the car yet, but this is a teaser...
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And with the brake rotor...
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The car is not sitting on the ground, obviously, but the fender gap is going to be nice. Also, since I had to install that speedometer calibrator (SGI-5), the speedometer will be corrected easily for the bigger wheels.

MORE UPDATES TO COME!
 
That's gonna look sweet Dan. I am not sure of the offset on those, but if you end up needing them I have some H&R hubcentric 15mm spacers from when I had OEM wheels on my car that I will let go cheap.

-Alan
 
agreed some nice stuff there. after seeing several of your threads i do not think id have an issue at all making the drive up there to let ya help with the headers and maybe some other stuff :) . how are the junk yards out there. are they LKQ or a differnt place.

the ones around here are always picked clean of anything mustang or mark viii related. kind sucks.. I am about to go read your speed cal install. i have been wanting to install a dallas speed cal to just be done with my speed issues as well. im currenly only off by like 3-4 mph under. so it doesnt hurt me to bad.
 
Great deal on rims and tires! The drilling of the hubs does take some grunt huh? I bruised my chest pushing off of it.
 
Looks like a pain to drill hubs like that!

FWIW I was told those springs have Tangential Ends, so you can trim them to get the ride height you like.
 
So, I finally got this stuff all together to throw it on the car... So lets get to the colored pixels!


Pic taken after knocking out my old studs. Just smacked them out with a hammer and punch.
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I ground a small flat on the studs, just so that they cleared the knuckle a tiny bit better.
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I bought studs for an 04 mustang. They are a dorman part, .627" diameter knurl.
I used a nut, 3 washers and grease to pull the studs into the hub. Did not take too much effort, my 3/8" DeWalt had enough grunt to pull them almost all the way thru, some required use of a ratchet to finish pulling them in.
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All installed...
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Hit the calipers with some of my favorite hammered rust-oleum paint, cuz bitches love shiny stuff!
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Wheels installed with my hub-centric rings
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18" x 8.5 50mm offset
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Fronts tomorrow!
 
looks great DD, re; 50mm offset, our oem is 36 with a 16x 7'' rim? are you gonna be scrubbing anything from the inside?
 
No, it's got plenty of room in there, plus my suspension is very stiff. I am elated to see that they fit so well.
 
do you have a photo of the modified brake hose flange for the front pass side?
 
I hope you don't, but I have a feeling you are going to have clearance issues in the front. The tire is probably going to hit the spindle at the upper control arm.
 
Looks great man! Gotta do some custom center caps now, the rears look like they fit perfectly.
 
looks great DD, re; 50mm offset, our oem is 36 with a 16x 7'' rim? are you gonna be scrubbing anything from the inside?

stock is 39 mm btw. a lot of misinformation out there, as i thought it was 36 for the longest time as well.

I hope you don't, but I have a feeling you are going to have clearance issues in the front. The tire is probably going to hit the spindle at the upper control arm.

i have the same feeling. 50 mm is gonna be a lot for the front.
but we won't know til you try i suppose.

it is looking great though.
 
I have no reason to think the fronts will rub. The rears are almost flush with the quarters, so they are pushed out very far, rather than being too far inset. We will see. They are also 18", so I think the farther up the spindle I go, the wider the gap at the spindle gets.

Dnsherill, the common practice is not to modify the brake hose, but to modify the caliper. You grind/file material away from the caliper and don't touch the hose end. I have wondered if how much you removed from your flange is what is causing your leak.

As for the center caps, American Muscle has a whole bunch of different center caps, I haven't decided what to get.
-black
-chrome
-machined
 
I'm not saying it is wrong, that is what I have commonly seen. I would be afraid of grinding too much and getting into the fluid cavity on the hose.
 

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