Brand new cooling system, love this car, ha

SultanGris said:
4Z-9F814-AC still doesn't find on Rock Auto but it brings it right up on Google anyway with pictures and everything, thanks.
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That's because the above part number is the FORD, (blue lable), part number.

RA doesn't sell dealer parts. They do however sell Motorcraft, (red label), parts... and the Motorcraft part number is different from the Ford part number.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
A call to your local dealer will give you that answer.
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Appears to be ford number in the pic, I don't think Auto parts stores carry it, they can't find it anyway. I ordered online. Cheaper anyway, ha
 
Not even warm or running but sitting there leaking, lol
20210113_150112.jpg
 
Got my parts finally, tried to take the intake manifold off but that's more of a pita than it looks and I was unable to get it off. Gonna call around tomorrow and see how much a mechanic is gonna bone me for that job. Fun fun
 
Yeah that's too complex for me I think, too much disconnecting stuff that I can't disconnect, I always break those stupid plastic connectors I don't like messing with the fuel system either. I prolly could figure it out if I messed with it all day but I don't feel like wasting that much time. It's cold till noon and dark at four. Maybe I'll change my mind again after I see what a mechanic charges though, haha
 
Well I paid a mechanic 180$ and he put both intake gaskets on the same side cause they were stuck together and used rtv on the other side. That's why I normally like to do things myself but I got frustrated and gave up on this one and that's what I get, lol! At least I'm not losing coolant at the rate of a half a gallon every 4 miles anymore so that's a bonus! Still got to replace the radiator and then I should be good on coolant leaks.
 
I have had the intake on and off like 10 total times so I have it basically memorized. But I would take up that deal probably. $180 to not mess with it in the cold is thumbs up.
 
Andrizzle said:
I have had the intake on and off like 10 total times so I have it basically memorized. But I would take up that deal probably. $180 to not mess with it in the cold is thumbs up.
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Same, first time I did valve cover gaskets it took almost 3 hours to pull the intake. Now I can get it off in 20 minutes. I think its beneficial to diy at least once so you'll be able to identify all the parts, hoses and sensors on the car
 
if I had a garage and proper tools I would do it myself for sure, but I go south for winter in an RV and I have no garage down here and I only have a $100 Craftsman tool set which is pretty cheeseball with not many good tools. I took it most of the way off but there was a few electrical plugs I couldn't get unconnected and I didn't want to break them. Me and electrical connections don't get along very well cuz they're all different and I can never find the stupid clip so they usually break.

I'm a farmer, I work on lots of stuff, I was just lazy this time basically, ha!
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Especially since the intake bolts have a habit of snapping off flush, (or close to flush), with the head when the engine is the same temp as the outside temp in winter.
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I actually had the bolts out twice cuz I was going to do it myself, and I had to lift it to change my thermostat housing plastic crap. They came out easy but I had trouble with the electrical and fuel connections so I never completed the removal process.

I paid 280 for them to do my EGR, heater valve and radiator, they went through the top even though I told them bottom was easier and it took them about 4 and half hours. look like my auxiliary pump hose was maybe starting to leak a little bit so I might have effed up by not replacing that too, but I'm in Vegas and I'm a gambler, lol! She's holding coolant and pressure now.

the heater doesn't seem to work near as good though now that my heater valve is fixed, haha. When I have it set on 72 does the air coming out supposed to be 72°. Or what cuz it feels pretty cool, or does it adjust for cabin temperature?I'll try setting it to Auto and see what happens, Auto climate works perfectly in my 2013 super duty but that's the only vehicle I've ever had or been in where it worked worth a crap. My friends Chevys and Dodge Auto climate just don't work worth a hoot so I'm not sure how good Fords was 20 years ago either, going to find out now though!

I still haven't achieved full power, had a p0190 code but it's went away and hasn't come back but when I accelerate I lose power sometimes,and it doesn't like to start in the morning like it has no fuel, going to try fuel filter first. Also kind of seems like it runs out of fuel and stalls more at a quarter tank than when more full so maybe the guy that changed the fuel pump before I bought the car effed something up in there. it's kind of doing that when I first bought the car but I ran some Lucas through it and it seemed to work pretty good for a couple weeks but now it's back to doing it again. right after I had him work on the intake so I was thinking maybe he screwed up a wire or that fuel pressure sensor maybe. Any thoughts?
 
SultanGris said:
I actually had the bolts out twice cuz I was going to do it myself, and I had to lift it to change my thermostat housing plastic crap. They came out easy but I had trouble with the electrical and fuel connections so I never completed the removal process.

I paid 280 for them to do my EGR, heater valve and radiator, they went through the top even though I told them bottom was easier and it took them about 4 and half hours. look like my auxiliary pump hose was maybe starting to leak a little bit so I might have effed up by not replacing that too, but I'm in Vegas and I'm a gambler, lol! She's holding coolant and pressure now.

the heater doesn't seem to work near as good though now that my heater valve is fixed, haha. When I have it set on 72 does the air coming out supposed to be 72°. Or what cuz it feels pretty cool, or does it adjust for cabin temperature?I'll try setting it to Auto and see what happens, Auto climate works perfectly in my 2013 super duty but that's the only vehicle I've ever had or been in where it worked worth a crap. My friends Chevys and Dodge Auto climate just don't work worth a hoot so I'm not sure how good Fords was 20 years ago either, going to find out now though!

I still haven't achieved full power, had a p0190 code but it's went away and hasn't come back but when I accelerate I lose power sometimes,and it doesn't like to start in the morning like it has no fuel, going to try fuel filter first. Also kind of seems like it runs out of fuel and stalls more at a quarter tank than when more full so maybe the guy that changed the fuel pump before I bought the car effed something up in there. it's kind of doing that when I first bought the car but I ran some Lucas through it and it seemed to work pretty good for a couple weeks but now it's back to doing it again. right after I had him work on the intake so I was thinking maybe he screwed up a wire or that fuel pressure sensor maybe. Any thoughts?
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I've never had any lack of power in my LSes but it's always a good idea to change the fuel filter if you dont know when it was changed last...also it's not terrible to check out the fuel pump ...right side u see back seat ...pull rhe seat out and give it a good inspection...remember there's a jet pump on the left side under the rear seat also due to having the saddle tank
 
AmsterDutch said:
I've never had any lack of power in my LSes but it's always a good idea to change the fuel filter if you dont know when it was changed last...also it's not terrible to check out the fuel pump ...right side u see back seat ...pull rhe seat out and give it a good inspection...remember there's a jet pump on the left side under the rear seat also due to having the saddle tank
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Well I guess I didn't explain it right maybe, like it has power most times but when I accelerate it does so normally more so when first started and cold, like it'll lose power randomly sometimes after it's warmed up. I'll be accelerating and then it'll just kinda stall but if I let off the throttle it will go a little, kinda like the further you push the pedal the less power it has and slower it accelerates, if you accelerate lightly it'll go a little bit. But then if I stop shut it off turn it back on it'll go good again for a while.

The p0190 code was talking about fuel pressure sensor I think. I'll drive some more and see if that code comes back, haven't been far since fixed other stuff and reset codes, but it did stall already which is why I'm gonna try filter first.

The pass side fuel pump lid all leaked when I bought the car, they were messing around in there unsuccessfully, heh. I fixed that and then it was running ok but didn't like to start for a while, but when started it ran great. I never did look in the other side. They're was a pump in a box of unknown condition in the trunk when I got the car. Can they be tested somehow? Thanks
 
SultanGris said:
Well I guess I didn't explain it right maybe, like it has power most times but when I accelerate it does so normally more so when first started and cold, like it'll lose power randomly sometimes after it's warmed up. I'll be accelerating and then it'll just kinda stall but if I let off the throttle it will go a little, kinda like the further you push the pedal the less power it has and slower it accelerates, if you accelerate lightly it'll go a little bit. But then if I stop shut it off turn it back on it'll go good again for a while.

The p0190 code was talking about fuel pressure sensor I think. I'll drive some more and see if that code comes back, haven't been far since fixed other stuff and reset codes, but it did stall already which is why I'm gonna try filter first.

The pass side fuel pump lid all leaked when I bought the car, they were messing around in there unsuccessfully, heh. I fixed that and then it was running ok but didn't like to start for a while, but when started it ran great. I never did look in the other side. They're was a pump in a box of unknown condition in the trunk when I got the car. Can they be tested somehow? Thanks
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You would know if the jet pump is malfunctioning...as far as the main fuel pump I guess I'm confused what you meant by it was leaking ...was rhe Plastic O Ring not tightened down well enough? Was it stripped? Or was the connections not properly connected? A little more detail would be good....if you don't have the resources to test the fuel pressure I would suggest finding a friend or taking it to a respectable and reasonable Independent Mechanic and have the fuel pressure tested...as you know fuel is a major necessity to make a car run properly...and if nothing else if all checks out you can rule it out and move on...the hesitation you describe could be a hundred different things...but It almost sounds like you have some marginal COPs ...do you have FORSCAN?
 
If you have Forscan can you post some Fuel Pressure readings from dashboard live feed ...I could do some comparison
 
Forgot to mention there is a Misfire count on Forscan Dadhboard live feed as well ...You xan download the Forscan Lite on your smart phone around $5 dollars and buy a bluetooth adapter cheap from Amazon
 
They didn't have it tight and they had the wrong seal on the top so it leaked gas out of the top of the tank by plastic ring, I put it in the correct seal and tightened it correctly.

Yeah I have forscan but not sure how to use it right. Was looking for the misfire account cuz I read about it in a different post but I was unable to find it yet. Need to spend more time on it. Got wrong Bluetooth adapter, but I have a plug in one for my laptop as well. My Bluetooth adapter works with torque lite but under the fuel pressure section it says no data, I'm gonna have to figure out how to use forscan I guess. Thanks
 
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SultanGris said:
They didn't have it tight and they had the wrong seal on the top so it leaked gas out of the top of the tank by plastic ring, I put it in the correct seal and tightened it correctly.

Yeah I have forscan but not sure how to use it right. Was looking for the misfire account cuz I read about it in a different post but I was unable to find it yet. Need to spend more time on it. Got wrong Bluetooth adapter, but I have a plug in one for my laptop as well. My Bluetooth adapter works with torque lite but under the fuel pressure section it says no data, I'm gonna have to figure out how to use forscan I guess. Thanks
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It should look like this
Screenshot_20210125-093546_Chrome.jpg
 
20210125_160836.jpg


Code p0191 showed up now also,

The dip is where was accelerating, it definitely went lower pressure than yours, I saw down to 17 or so, it didn't run or shift correctly on this run, when I accelerated to the floor and the RPMS went up but it never did shift, kind of didn't have enough power and just kept the RPMs higher but wouldn't shift right, only a short run though, it shifts if I give less throttle.
 
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