At my wit's end! neutral safety switch

somebody put a 532 big block in an X350 jag, same platform. it’ll fit the LS with room to spare but he didn’t care about having the AC or gauges work


 
somebody put a 532 big block in an X350 jag. it’ll fit the LS with room to spare but he didn’t care about having the AC or gauges work


See that's good information I just can't see putting another duratec V6 in this car I got to aim a little higher. Again it was my fault you buy a cheap motor.
 
I'm kind of in the same boat, I got about five grand into mine but I got too much into it to quit now, going to mostly restore it and make it work i might even paint the pos, lol, pretty fun car to drive when it runs right though.
 
I'm kind of in the same boat, I got about five grand into mine but I got too much into it to quit now, going to mostly restore it and make it work i might even paint the pos, lol, pretty fun car to drive when it runs right though.
Well I spent years watching power block and different mechanic's on you tube and I figure I can spend a lot of money paying someone else to to the work or I can learn to do it myself. I am a bit hard on cars so if I can learn how to fix this one every time I break it then I will be able to recoup some of my investment and I won't feel slighted.
 
I'm kind of in the same boat, I got about five grand into mine but I got too much into it to quit now, going to mostly restore it and make it work i might even paint the pos, lol, pretty fun car to drive when it runs right though.
Well I spent years watching power block and different mechanic's on you tube and I figure I can spend a lot of money paying someone else to to the work or I can learn to do it myself. I am a bit hard on cars so if I can learn how to fix this one every time I break it then I will be able to recoup some of my investment and I won't feel slighted
 
Well I spent years watching power block and different mechanic's on you tube and I figure I can spend a lot of money paying someone else to to the work or I can learn to do it myself. I am a bit hard on cars so if I can learn how to fix this one every time I break it then I will be able to recoup some of my investment and I won't feel slighted
yeah I only paid $1,000 for the car but every time I fix something something else broke so now I'm about five grand deep and no turning back now, be lucky to get two grand back out of it so I'm just going to fix it keep driving it, even if I got to spend about 8 Grand it should be a decent car for a while.might have to stock up on some of those parts that are getting hard to get though so I can fix it next time it breaks too or else I'll be screwed completely, lol
 
yeah I only paid $1,000 for the car but every time I fix something something else broke so now I'm about five grand deep and no turning back now, be lucky to get two grand back out of it so I'm just going to fix it keep driving it, even if I got to spend about 8 Grand it should be a decent car for a while.might have to stock up on some of those parts that are getting hard to get though so I can fix it next time it breaks too or else I'll be screwed completely, lol
Well I called the Lincoln dealership to get a variable cam timing sprocket after I did some initial research on the motor I replaced because the intake cam on bank two was over retarded and he told me all the parts for the 2003 V6 was obsolete. This was when I first bought the car so armed with that knowledge I think I'm going full custom from hear on out I want and old over head valve 351 windsor or a new ecoboost or that new 7.3 liter engine for the new super duty. I need a motor I can readily get replacement parts for.
 
Well I called the Lincoln dealership to get a variable cam timing sprocket after I did some initial research on the motor I replaced because the intake cam on bank two was over retarded and he told me all the parts for the 2003 V6 was obsolete. This was when I first bought the car so armed with that knowledge I think I'm going full custom from hear on out I want and old over head valve 351 windsor or a new ecoboost or that new 7.3 liter engine for the new super duty. I need a motor I can readily get replacement parts for.
Honestly I wish I could get a coyote to fit I bought a 2011 mustang GT after my deployment to iraq in 2009 and that was a truly fast car. This lincoln is supposed to weigh 3600 pound that mustang GT weighed 3400 it would totally transform this car and it is a very smooth and reliable motor.
 
Smart decision but again I am about 2500 into this I can get that back. But maybe I can use this car to get an education. I'm thinking about a 3.5 ecoboost swap.
I looked into putting an Ecoboost in one too. It's going to be as or more challenging than a 4.6 or any other swap already mentioned. All because of electronics incompatibility.

Don't forget you will also need a different transmission too. The LS transmission is unique to the LS... due to the 3.9 engine. It is pretty much a "one off" transmission and it won't bolt up to anything else. There's another $xxxx for a trans that would be electronically incompatible.

You still also have a tired higher milage LS that most likely needs a full suspension rebuild too. That's at least another grand... and that's using cheaply made aftermarket parts that don't last long..

Part it out and walk away... and consider it a lesson learned.

The front clip (except bumper cover)and trunk lid are aluminum. Those would be an easy sell to someone that had a wrecked LS they were looking to repair.
 
I don't know a 460 will fit into every year mustang as far as I know if you can do an LS a 460 or a 400cubic inch ford motor from the late 60's early 70's should work theoretically right?
The 460 weighs hundreds of pounds more than the aluminum 3.9. There are no springs for the LS that will carry the weight of the 460.

Now you are talking custom suspension parts. That can get expensive.
 
The 460 weighs hundreds of pounds more than the aluminum 3.9. There are no springs for the LS that will carry the weight of the 460.

Now you are talking custom suspension parts. That can get expensive.
there are. rob the front springs from a coilover kit for the x350 jag, they can support a bbf and still leave the car at a reasonable height.
 
Honestly I wish I could get a coyote to fit I bought a 2011 mustang GT after my deployment to iraq in 2009 and that was a truly fast car. This lincoln is supposed to weigh 3600 pound that mustang GT weighed 3400 it would totally transform this car and it is a very smooth and reliable motor.
I beat a 2011 Mustang GT 4.6 with my LS. Most likely because the other guy didn't know how to use the clutch.... and the wrong rear axle gear ratio.

The LS with the 3.9 is plenty fast enough.

My suggestion at this point... is to get another good running 3.9 with no issues... and start over.
 
there are. rob the front springs from a coilover kit for the x350 jag, they can support a bbf and still leave the car at a reasonable height.
Interesting... but more $$$... and still will have electronics incompatibility issues with the rest of the systems.
 
Last edited:
there are. rob the front springs from a coilover kit for the x350 jag, they can support a bbf and still leave the car at a reasonable height.
But will also most likely suffer from premature suspension component wear due to the extra weight of the 460.

Plus it will still affect the 50/50 weight balance of the car... which will affect handling.
 
somebody put a 532 big block in an X350 jag, same platform. it’ll fit the LS with room to spare but he didn’t care about having the AC or gauges work


Same with a guy on this forum that put a 302 from an Explorer in an LS a number of years ago.
 
His dash was also lit up like a Christmas tree... from all the electroincs that weren't communicating.

I assume the OP was planning on using his LS as a daily driver. Doubt that will be practical if an engine (and transmission) swap happens.

I think I figured out the best way a few years ago... how to do an engine swap and keep the LS electronics happy.

I'm not talking about it though... because it is an untested theory that I no longer have the time or desire to do. Plus it means cannibalizing most of the wiring from a different Ford vehicle... and splicing everything together... and hope it works. THAT all depends on sensor voltage compatibility between 2 similar (but different) vehicles.

At this point I'm out. I say contact the junkyard that sold the engine with a cracked block... and get your money back... and/or have them pull another Gen 2 3.9 if they have one.

The OP talking on here about the block being cracked... could be considered as documenting that issue... which might help him with getting a good replacement engine... or a refund.
 
OP’s car is a V6

doesn’t help because the ajv6 bolt pattern doesn’t hook up to anything else except the duratec and the sho v8
 
I beat a 2011 Mustang GT 4.6 with my LS. Most likely because the other guy didn't know how to use the clutch.... and the wrong rear axle gear ratio.

The LS with the 3.9 is plenty fast enough.

My suggestion at this point... is to get another good running 3.9 with no issues... and start over.
Yeah I found a one out of a T bird with 97,000 miles for 800 but ya know once you get burned by one salvage yard it's kinda hard to put your faith in another. Not to mention the timing chain issues the 3.9 has I don't know much about them because I haven't dealt with that motor. And again you are dealing with the problem of the motor being obsolete and not being able to get parts for them I have seen a guy on youtube putting those ecoboost v6 in mustangs and old ford trucks I don't think it would be terribly expensive for a recked donor truck so you had. Everything you needed for the swap.
 
Does anyone know if it is possible to bypass the heater core on an LS without any unintentional side effects. I am already overheating and I just pulled the top end off and there was a lot of water trapped in the engine that's not circulating I just need to bypass the heater core to see if I get a change.
 
Does anyone know if it is possible to bypass the heater core on an LS without any unintentional side effects. I am already overheating and I just pulled the top end off and there was a lot of water trapped in the engine that's not circulating I just need to bypass the heater core to see if I get a change.
Why do you think the heater core is the problem (unless it is leaking, it is not)?
Bypassing it certainly possible, but it will only make your problems worse, not better. It is a part of the engine cooling too...
 
Why do you think the heater core is the problem (unless it is leaking, it is not)?
Bypassing it certainly possible, but it will only make your problems worse, not better. It is a part of the engine cooling too...
I don't know what's going on but I do have a blocked line or something. Second thing is when I pressure tested the cooling system by hooking the garden hose to the overflow outlet tube on the bottom of the degas bottle I got water coming out of my oil pan I know the car was overheating before I did the engine swap so again I am trying different things to see if I can find out why I am getting water in my valve cover where the spark plugs are
 
I'm not going to leave it bypassed I just wanted to know if bypassing it would make the car not run correctly or immediately over heat I don't know if that dial heater control valve that's hooked up to the ECU will throw a fault code or if I can do this to see if I can pinpoint my cooling line issues.
 

Members online

Back
Top