Air Ride won't vent in front

LSC CE 82

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I figured it was going to happen... Air ride problem. My bags are 3 years old, and don't leak. I can tell you this is true as my front end is so high right now, I'm waiting for them to explode.

Here's what happened. I came off the highway, and heard my compressor kick on like it does to raise the car. Then I notice it keeps turning on then off, then on again. The "Check Air Ride" warning message came on. I pull over, the car is sitting fine. I switch the system off, then back on. The compressor kicks in and keeps pumping the car up in the front. I turn the switch off, then the compressor stops. I flip the switch on, then remove the key and shut the doors. Only the rear vents. Not the front. I limp the thing 30 miles home, bouncing all over the place. The car looks like a ghetto car ready to hop up and down. I've read some of the other posts here. My compressor is really loud now. It won't shut off as long as the key is on, and the switch is on. The rear system seems to work as it should. I did have a massive amount of leaves on the car today, what plugs the compressor? I'm guessing I'll need to go get the wood laid to me at the dealership for diagnosis, but I'm hoping one of you fellas can hep me out. Thanks.....

FYI my air ride is stock, not adjusted, lowered or messed with. Just new OEM bags on all four corners 3 years ago per PO's paperwork.

Thanks,
 
The system vents through the compressor, but when you say the compressor runs all the time, usually that means the air comp relay is stuck. The first thing to check is the front ride height sensors. If one pops off of it's stud, it will continuosly pump up the front.
 
You might have a couple things gone wrong at the same time. Not common but not unusual either. Charger mentioned both possible issues. If the car doesn't come down at all then I smell a stuck vent solenoid. Happened to me with my prairie tan.
 
Are there any underhood relays i can swap to test? Any pics? I'm not the most mechanically inclined. Can you replace the vent solenoid, or is that serviced with the compressor?
 
Mark VIIIs have 5 pneumatic solenoids. 2 from the rear airsuspension and the one vent solenoid at the compressor is obviously working.

You can save your front airsprings from possible damage by venting them by applying 12 volts at the solenoid elecrtical contacts. The air will vent to the atmosphere through the vent at the compressor.
 
Vent solenoid is serviced with the comp. I don't have any pics handy, but I'm sure someone will post some. There are 2 other relays on the car that are the same as the comp relay. ABS relay, and smog/air injection pump relay. Neither are real easy to get to, as both are behind the driver's side bumper cover/inner fender shield. Definitely check the ride height sensors first.
 
Vent solenoid is serviced with the comp. I don't have any pics handy, but I'm sure someone will post some. There are 2 other relays on the car that are the same as the comp relay. ABS relay, and smog/air injection pump relay. Neither are real easy to get to, as both are behind the driver's side bumper cover/inner fender shield. Definitely check the ride height sensors first.

Charger, you were right. The r/f height sensor is loose at the top. Looks like it should be mounted on a stud that comes off the UCA..... Now, how do I re attach it?? The bag is so inflated I can't line the sensor up w the stud.... Also Why did it fall off????
 
Mark VIIIs have 5 pneumatic solenoids. 2 from the rear airsuspension and the one vent solenoid at the compressor is obviously working.

You can save your front airsprings from possible damage by venting them by applying 12 volts at the solenoid elecrtical contacts. The air will vent to the atmosphere through the vent at the compressor.

How do I do that??? I know nothing about wiring or where the solenoids are. Thanks.
 
If you know nothing about the wiring or solenoids, this might be an easier way to lower the car. Take a zip tie or something similar, and squish the height sensor all the way down, or at least about halfway, put the wheel/tire back on, if you had it off. Put a floor jack under pass side pinch weld, just in case it lowers too far, and turn your air ride switch back on, and cycle the key on. This should allow it to vent back to normal height, or somewhere close. Then shut switch back off and remove wheel/tire, and figure out why the sensor popped off. Should have a metal spring clip in sensor where it snaps on the stud.
 
^^^ The zip tie trick should work. With the sensor extended like that, the suspension module thinks the car is on the ground and it wants to level it out by pumping more air into the airspring.
 
I took some pictures of my reserve airspring to show you where the two electrical contacts are on the solenoid.

You may not need to do this if the zip tie trick works.

But incase you need to vent it manually, the photos also shows you how 12 volts is applied across the contacts to trigger the valve to open so air can get out.

Of course you don't have to remove your airspring from the car to do this. You just need to unplug the wire harness from the solenoid to get to the electrical pins.

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But incase you need to vent it manually, the photos also shows you how 12 volts is applied across the contacts to trigger the valve to open so air can get out.

Of course you don't have to remove your airspring from the car to do this. You just need to unplug the wire harness from the solenoid to get to the electrical pins.
You would also need to disconnect the lines going into the dryer or open the vent solenoid at the compressor so the air would have somewhere to go.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. The zip tie method worked on the height sensor. The car vented air for roughly one minute- no joke from the bags. All the other bags were pumped up to, trying to correct for the loose sensor. I attached the sensor and drove around the block. All seems well. I'm not happy with the way the sensor re connected to the UCA, so tonight when I get home, I'll look into why it fell off, or if something is wrong. I can't express how much you all helped me. Thank you. I'm sure the dealership would have chopped my legs off to the tune of $200 for the diag. Anyway, I know this is a cobble, but since my sensor is working, could I use a zip tie as a temporary clip until my new sensor arives if i need one?
 
Update- Reinstalled the sensor and have driven about 200 miles since. It hasn't fallen off again. All is well. I wonder why it came loose in the first place???
 
It happens. One bad bump and they can pop off. Make sure they are NOT lubricated on the ends. They use friction to hold. If the metal clip inside is lubricated they will fall off easier. A clean dry surface is best.
 
Sometimes the little metal tension gets worn and needs replacing. You can slide the clip off and replace it with another in a pinch.
 
Almost 1000 miles later, the sensor has stayed on. I did take and bend the metal clip with a needle nose plyers to make a tighter fit. I also installed a zip tie on each UCA as a back but to keep the sensors from falling loose again.. So far the clips and zip ties have remailed in place. I wonder if I hurt my compressor, because it sure is louder after this all happned. I suppose I'll need to replace that in the future. I hear that's no fun to do.
 
Replacing the compressor is easy. But they don't really get loud. Its a simple single piston design and its very easy to refurbish. What does get loud are the mounts. They fail with age, etc. I think Eddie "American Air-1" above here still sells them. Replacing them will greatly reduce noise. But if the compressor is factory and you have the cash, I would still just get a refurb from Eddie and get it all done at once.
 

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