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I had the same problem (specifically jerking right after the 4-5 shift and backing off throttle to maintain speed around 55-60 mph) and it was solved by replacing the shift solenoid pack. I bought a new one from an ebay seller, NOT a reman from 800700tran.com. I've heard some horror stories so I...

I just had all 4 passenger side coils replaced under campaign 07M07 for free @ 76k and a little less than 2 years under the 10 year mark on my '04. It's running like a champ now including the bucking at 60 mph I was concerned could be the O/D servo. MDavis0424, you mentioned you had a couple...

Only for a DTC code reader and maybe to adjust a few user-defined parameters over your stock tune unless you have an LS with a compatible computer strategy. Otherwise custom tunes are in order.

The sound itself is similar to mine but mine is steady with speed at any rate. I thought it was road noise at first but I need a right rear wheel bearing.

Mostly, except that it doesn't need to be wiped clean. It's unlocked now as I've flashed back to stock and the tunes can be replaced using LiveLink or by a custom tuner, which I recommend for accurate dyno tuning. Are you making an offer?

How 'bout Tree-fitty? Somebody make an offer.

I have an SCT Xcal 3 that has served me well with 2 ILLS tunes (street + race). I need money for some repairs so I'm going to have to sell the tuner. I have the car returned to stock so the tuner is unlocked. A caveat though, the tune must match your computer strategy code so these tunes may not...

I don't think it's quite that bad yet. No full misses or fuel smell. I will probably get it checked out after the first of the year since it is surely enough to show up in a stress test.

I'm toying with the idea of selling my Xcal3 w/ 2 ILLS tunes to get a new guitar amp. The car's the same year and drivetrain but your ECU strategy may be different. I've had the trans reflash from the dealer (that didn't resolve the issues I was having...shift solenoid pack did). Dyno tune is...

Mine was doing it only at WOT until I swapped #4 and #1. It stopped going into ETC Failsafe mode after that. I do feel a miss on occasion but still haven't been to the dealer. I have 75,000 miles now so still have some time on the TSB. I just want to make sure it's bad enough when I take it in...

I'd help if I could as I'm near CLT. It sounds like you've had everything I could think of done unless the coils they used were crap or an oil leak is fouling them. I've had mine at Tindol up in Gastonia and I believe they correctly diagnosed my shift solenoid failure. I'll know more when I...

On the LS I believe it is caused when the #4 coil is failing and arcing. It's very close to the ETC wiring. I had it happen, swapped the coil with #1 and haven't had it happen again. Now I'm patiently awaiting storage of a correct misfire code so I can have the failing coil replaced under the...

The tube on the first one is bent for routing on a Mustang. You may be able to get it to work but may not. It does look like a great option for future fluid changes if it works.

IIRC '99 heads might be a little short on spark plug threads (Lightnings had a habit of blowing them right out of the heads). You should be fine N/A but if you ever throw boost at it you may want to get some inserts first. I have large hands and (now scarred) fingers. It was not fun for me. I'd...

Yeah I wouldn't even try that isht in a Mustang without a tubular k-member again! 2 of the primaries on the driver's side wrapped around the steering shaft, requiring the slip-fit horror that had me smelling like a weedwacker every time I exited the car. I suppose I could've had them welded.

Aviator short block (aluminum 4.6 w/ shallow dish pistons for 32v heads... ~ 90 lb lighter than iron IIRC), stock PI heads, PI intake, VT Stage II cams, Comp Cams valve springs, Thunderbird timing cover (to match the aluminum block & PI heads combo), Cobra oil pan/pump/pickup tube and windage...

I know the port shapes are different. The PI intake manifold is not an exact match to the NPI heads but some port-matching work can be done. Some people just used RTV. I never looked at my NPI heads much but saw the PI heads through and through while I was putting my aluminum engine together...

I had a similar problem last winter. If I did anything I could do in warmer weather without issues (leave the trunk light on for a while) the thing wouldn't start in the morning without a recharge if it was below freezing. The stealership tested the battery and didn't try to sell me a new one...

Check the straps welded between the pipes before and after the resonators ESPECIALLY if you've ever bottomed out. I think that's what caused mine to break. I posted pics toward the end of the linked thread.

Would a ratcheting crescent wrench work? I'm considering tackling this job once it warms up here.