The Terminator Mark Bumper

I was staring so hard at the bumper that I was a little startled when I noticed the very subtle appearance of a person behind the wheel. haha
 
Mike, the front of the car looks amazing now, as always but I have to agree with some of the others. I would get an HID kit that matches your headlight color. As far as fog light output, I wouldn't care less but even with the kit, you're going to get "more" light out of it but mainly "matching light". Other than that, I'm liking that Gen 2 and I don't like many. John's is another one that I do like but that's because of the detail he has under the hood and the over all color of the car. I like both of them.

There are a couple of other Gen 2's that I like on here but not naming names or they'll get the big head lol. :D

Anyway, please consider an HID kit and I'm thinking 4300K to 5000K, possibly 6000K and that would set it off for sure but it's already set off as is. Beautiful car but I have also been watching you build on that car since 2005. :shifty:
 
97MarkJA said:
Looks great Mike, HID in the fog lights don't do much good for fog.. driving yes. They will cause to much glare to be useful as fog lights.
I'd go with 3000 yellow but I like the euro look.
Either way it looks damn good.
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He lives in Atlanta, not really far from me and fog is something we rarely ever see. It's not the point of being used as fog lights because he hasn't had fogs for years anyway. The point is for light matching purposes only. Pretty white HID's up top with yellow halogens lit up down low is the only thing throwing it off for me. JMO though!
 
Thanks Guys! :) I will look into the bulbs and switch them out. I have no idea what bulb to use, and which one will fit in the housing.

I drove The Mark home from John's and it has been under cover since the photos were taken. So, I have not tested it out in rush hour traffic with the A/C on yet to see how far the temp gauge will go up.

From John's, it was 8pm, 87 degrees, a/c was on, and the engine temps on the interstate were in the low 200's, which is normal for my car.

I am running 100% distilled water and two bottles of purple ice, with no thermostat. The three fans turn on at 160. I have been doing this since last year, and the car has yet to heat up so much that I have to pull over and let the thing cool down while running the a/c. No concern/problem at all when the the a/c is off.

The real test will be when I switch back to 50/50 green coolant this fall and run the a/c with the temps in the upper 80's in traffic. If the engine temp is going to run up to 220+, that is when it will do it.
 
DLF said:
You might want to rethink that. The system needs some restriction to allow sufficient time in the radiator to actually reduce coolant temps.
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U know I've heard a couple ppl say that but Im running a '99 Cobra water pump w/no thermostat on my '93 yet the car takes over an hour in bumper to bumper traffic to reach normal temp. Otherwise the needle stays on the "A" on NORMAL. :)
 
I had to run a 160 degree T-Stat in my '96 because it kept getting hot. Once I went from the stock 195 to the 160 I had no more heating problems. I've heard claims on both sides of the "no T-stat" issue. Some have said that running no t-stat causes the engine to overheat because cooland doesn't have sufficient time to cool down in the radiator while others says that the constant flow of coolant keeps the system at a constant temp. I personally have never run a vehicle sans thermostat, so I don't have experience in that area. But I would have to agree that not using a thermostat is probably not the best idea. It's there for a reason. If the engine didn't need it, it would never have been installed in the first place.:)
 
The set-up I have now, not using the thermostat with 100% distilled water and 2 bottles of purple ice or equivalent, has worked best for my car during summer use when the a/c is on. That thermostat has been in and out of my car several times, and it has been decided that it runs best the way it is without the thermostat. YMMV :)

Winter time is another story... A 160-180 thermostat is the preferred method for my car, as again, I am not running the a/c and the car does not come up to temp in light traffic. Stop and go traffic, it does come up to temp - 180, in the winter.

It also comes up to temp fine doing burnouts. Watch the digital gauge that starts at 174 in the video... :) That is November air, 50/50 coolant, no thermostat.

http://youtu.be/9D15uHL6jts?hd=1
 
Yes, there is some fact to the argument of too much flow and not enough cooling time passing through the radiator. Old school hot rods used to run a restrictor washer in place of t-stats. This restricted the flow from the water pump through the radiator. Trial and error was used to achieve the optimum size for any particular setup.
 
All I can tell you is on a blown 4.6 Cobra, Northstars, Ford Big Blocks, Honda Civics, Ford 3.0 Ranger and a 3.4 Toyota is that they all were overheating without a thermostat and ran proper with one.

As DLF said, the water needs time to properly cool in the radiator andthen refill the block so the water that was in the block can now cool in the radiator. Thermostats dont just open and then stay open, they cycle like most controll valves do in the car.

Now Mlschultz car is not one I could say without playing with. Different fans, dfferent rad and an intercooler are not what Ford had in mind when they designed that cars cooling system.


That being said, Mlschultz, you ever think of running a cooling line from the rear of the drivers head to the passenger head? I did it on an 03 Cobra and the car always ran 12* cooler after that.
 
wow you guys are real pricks making me be the first to say it on the second page..... Mike that new bumper looks georgeous. the work you put into it is uncomparable to most people on this site much including me. I do notice that this is a bigger gap between the bumper and the header panel on the driver side than the pass. side. is this an easy fix?
 
JP, It may be that the only real fix is to have a radiator custom fabricated that is engineered for a 600 hp motor and ditch the Cobra radiator that is obviously not engineered to sufficiently cool such a motor.

Laser, I asked about the cooling mod way back when the engine was built, and was told it would not make a difference. So I let it go at that.

Thanks Danny, I did not notice that until you mentioned it. I am not going to mess with it. I will ask John if it can be tweaked though.

Thanks for the info 97Mark! :)
 
I have done a lot of reading about cooling systems and from the research I have done the problem is that as the mass flow of the water goes up and the airflow doesn't go up then you will not gain additional cooling.
 
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