Depressed...kill me!

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warrioralumni08

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Well, car died on me today....was pulling in for gas, shut off, oil pressure light came on, tried to start and it turned over and over and over, finally started got home, shut her down. Started her back up, smooth running, then hear like a tapping sound, let car warm up for a good 15 mins at idle, got rough and cut her off. I want to believe it's a bad rocker arm, didn't replace these. :shifty: brother said they looked good, but I guess they weren't? :mad: I want to think somehow it's coming off of the lifter, and that's causing low oil pressure when she warms up. I just hope it's nothing serious. Day is just ruined though.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Well, car died on me today....was pulling in for gas, shut off, oil pressure light came on, tried to start and it turned over and over and over, finally started got home, shut her down. Started her back up, smooth running, then hear like a tapping sound, let car warm up for a good 15 mins at idle, got rough and cut her off. I want to believe it's a bad rocker arm, didn't replace these. :shifty: brother said they looked good, but I guess they weren't? :mad: I want to think somehow it's coming off of the lifter, and that's causing low oil pressure when she warms up. I just hope it's nothing serious. Day is just ruined though.
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Bummer hope not anything crazy bad. I would have VC off in a minute and would be sweating till i could see in there.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Bummer hope not anything crazy bad. I would have VC off in a minute and would be sweating till i could see in there.
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Yea, glad it's on the driver side. Toward the rear of the valve cover when you put your ear to it. Could this cause a knock in the car though? Guess as soon as it senses low oil pressure, it knocks, and in turn, the knock sensors cut it off.
 
As far as I know knock sensor does not shut engine off only retard timing.Ford would never want the engine to go dead from knock it could kill peeps.(no PS or vacuum brakes) The knock is most likely coming FROM low oil pressure.
 
93 V power....but there was old gas in the tank still, no telling what kind it was...was 1/8th or a lil more of it left though. I did put 4.5 gallons of 93 in her. Also I just took the valve cover off though, heard lifter tick, but all of them seem to be working fine and squirting oil, unless im blind. Start up, it's not there, then it it comes,then goes, but mostly stays when it warms up and you give it gas. When the engine is cooled, I hear nothing. :confused:
 
Right on the Mark said:
Why don't you tell us all done to motor so we can know more.
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New lifters, valve seals, water pump, oil pump, main bearings, rod bearings, head bolts, connecting rod bolts, head bolts, main cap bolts, all new gaskets, heads and block were sent to machine shop, timing gears, chains, guides, tensioners, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, reman torque converter.

Things I didn't replace were springs, and rocker arms. Just don't know what it could be. :confused: :frown:

I noticed the temp was hot when it said low oil pressure and killed the car. So maybe something is not pumping or not circulating right or doing it's job....idk I just want it to be fixed! Smelled like burning oil to.
 
Properly bleed the coolant, put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it. If oil pressure is low you likely either have a bad pump or excessive bearing clearances.


Could also be as simple as sucking air at the oil pickup. Either way a teardown is probably in order
 
I'm with vr4 on this. It is common for these cars to not have the cooling system bled properly, it overheats, knocks, then shuts down... Do a search on how to properly bleed the cooling system. I had this exact thing happen with the black 98 that Jamie now has, long before he bought it...
 
DieselDan said:
I'm with vr4 on this. It is common for these cars to not have the cooling system bled properly, it overheats, knocks, then shuts down... Do a search on how to properly bleed the cooling system. I had this exact thing happen with the black 98 that Jamie now has, long before he bought it...
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Well, my crossover tube cap won't come off. I bled it before I did drive it though, guess it wasn't good enough? What other ways are there?
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Well, my crossover tube cap won't come off. I bled it before I did drive it though, guess it wasn't good enough? What other ways are there?
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If it won't come off how did you bleed it before? Like mentioned Pipe wrench,groove it, weld on nut all ways to get it off.
 
Get one of these... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d3plLMyUu0

Find a piece of hose and a couple clamps to fit it to the crossover tube.

Hands down the easiest way I've found to make sure it is bled properly. I want to make an adapter for the funnel to fit the crossover tube but a piece of hose and a couple clamps work great.
 
vr4 said:
Properly bleed the coolant, put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it. If oil pressure is low you likely either have a bad pump or excessive bearing clearances.


Could also be as simple as sucking air at the oil pickup. Either way a teardown is probably in order
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Im with Steve on this. I bet the end play wasnt set correctly on the crank or tolerences were too far off on the mains/rods. Also could be you broke the oil pump gear if you just reused the stock plastic one.

Minor point of interest. I believe they are called lash adjusters, not lifters on these motors.
 
Finally got it off with a pipe wrench as stated. Took a couple tries, but I got her. Took off the reservoir cap and filled it up, put cap back on. Filled through crossover tube until it came out, then put cap back on. Since I took the valve cover off, the gasket was stretched, cut it, put silicone on it so it will stay in place, will put back on tomorrow. Need to add oil again, since alot of it came out when the car was running with the valve cover off.

Why would it not knock immediately on start up? Just later when the temp gets to high? If something broke wouldn't it be constant?
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Finally got it off with a pipe wrench as stated. Took a couple tries, but I got her. Took off the reservoir cap and filled it up, put cap back on. Filled through crossover tube until it came out, then put cap back on. Since I took the valve cover off, the gasket was stretched, cut it, put silicone on it so it will stay in place, will put back on tomorrow. Need to add oil again, since alot of it came out when the car was running with the valve cover off.

Why would it not knock immediately on start up? Just later when the temp gets to high? If something broke wouldn't it be constant?
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Just like VR4 mentioned get a MECHANICAL oil pressure gauge on there. Then there is no more guessing and wondering. The temps should in no way be going high. Once bleed it will not do that. Cold oil pressure is always higher then when hot. Once oil gets hot it thins out lowering psi. Get a gauge on there!
 
Well, bled the cooling system, temperature get's nowhere near where it used to, car isn't getting hot or knocking. Kept cutting off on me, but I forgot to put the air intake back on, solved that. So far, so good and I will be getting an mechanical oil pressure gauge later today.
 
Where is a good place to mount the oil gauge? I tried on the wiper cowl, but the screws will go into the glass, can't really think of any where else. I really don't want it going inside the car, with that plastic tubing.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Where is a good place to mount the oil gauge? I tried on the wiper cowl, but the screws will go into the glass, can't really think of any where else. I really don't want it going inside the car, with that plastic tubing.
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Just duct tape it to windshied. Done is many times. Good call on the plastic tubing. Its dangerous. I had a 69 chevelle burst into flames in my garage on the lift when tubing layed on header burnt thru and went up in flames with the 60psi feeding the flames 4 feet high. Run Copper line for permanent installs.When using copper tubing the tubing holds the gauge in spot for test runs.
 
He means duct taping it to te windshield just for diagnostic purposes, obviously just remove it when you figure out what the car is doing... Glad to hear its running better for you.
 
Uh, I think my car already has the j-mod done to it...when I manually shift into second, it chirps the tires.
 
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