What size wire

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BodyByAAS

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Hey what size wire powers the AMP in an 97/98 LSC?

Im going to install a killswitch tonight, Dont want to rewire the speakers and everything just yet simply because I want to wait to see if Im going to swap out the interior and what not. I just want to jimmy rig this killswitch to stop the drain from the amp, and hook up a sub and additional amp.
 
Im seeing its a blue wire (remote wire) and I need a 12 volt switch... I will need extra wire tho, any idea what gauge?
 
You really just don't listen do you.

*polishes off spoon*
*puts on interwebz bully hat*

The amp is stuck on! The deck is not still supplying power to the remote turn on which is what you were just about to fugg with. The amp has a fault in that circuit and just never shuts down.
The fuse in the engine compartment ONLY feeds the main power for the amp and the CD changer........ uh, do you have the factory CD changer? If so I would put the fuse back in and unplug the changer and see if it drains. If not then that would mean the CD changer is constantly trying to eject which I have seen the Sony's do before.

Anyway, if you are dead set on hooking up a kill switch for the amp then the best way to do it..... and is still the wrong way mind you.... is to get some mini slide pins, 20' of 14 awg wire and a 20amp toggle switch. Take out the fuse, insert the slide pins into each side where the fuse was, run wires from the pins to inside the car, connect them to the switch and then mount the switch. The switch will fail if more then 20 amps goes through it and will act as a seudo fuse. Really to be safe you are better off by putting a fuse holder in line and fusing the power out of the fuse box.


The proper way would be to test the draw as was indicated to you by other members. The second proper way would be just ask someone for their old JBL amp and swap yours out. I bet that would cure your problem.
 
LaserSVT said:
You really just don't listen do you.

*polishes off spoon*
*puts on interwebz bully hat*

The amp is stuck on! The deck is not still supplying power to the remote turn on which is what you were just about to fugg with. The amp has a fault in that circuit and just never shuts down.
The fuse in the engine compartment ONLY feeds the main power for the amp and the CD changer........ uh, do you have the factory CD changer? If so I would put the fuse back in and unplug the changer and see if it drains. If not then that would mean the CD changer is constantly trying to eject which I have seen the Sony's do before.

Anyway, if you are dead set on hooking up a kill switch for the amp then the best way to do it..... and is still the wrong way mind you.... is to get some mini slide pins, 20' of 14 awg wire and a 20amp toggle switch. Take out the fuse, insert the slide pins into each side where the fuse was, run wires from the pins to inside the car, connect them to the switch and then mount the switch. The switch will fail if more then 20 amps goes through it and will act as a seudo fuse. Really to be safe you are better off by putting a fuse holder in line and fusing the power out of the fuse box.


The proper way would be to test the draw as was indicated to you by other members. The second proper way would be just ask someone for their old JBL amp and swap yours out. I bet that would cure your problem.
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Jesus man.... I figured a simple switch, probably on the pwer line now that I think about it, would cause the amp to shut off, or atleast kill power to it...

It sounds pretty simple to me....

Instead of cutting power at the fuse, cut power on the line before the amp
 
unplug the :q:q:q:qing amp

get in the trunk and drop the package tray for christ sake it takes 2 seconds, another 2 seconds to unplug the harness from the amp, then leave the :q:q:q:q hanging there and let it sit over night , if thats the problem, get another amp and hook it up and put the tray back up, you can literally find out if its the amp by unplugging it in less than 5 minutes, or take an hour running wires and switches and rigging the piss out of the car, your car will be the next one with pics posted up burnt to the ground. jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze usssssssssss christ.
 
Bad factory amp and running switches can cause this.

94OutBack004.jpg
 
BAD97LSC said:
unplug the :q:q:q:qing amp

get in the trunk and drop the package tray for christ sake it takes 2 seconds, another 2 seconds to unplug the harness from the amp, then leave the :q:q:q:q hanging there and let it sit over night , if thats the problem, get another amp and hook it up and put the tray back up, you can literally find out if its the amp by unplugging it in less than 5 minutes, or take an hour running wires and switches and rigging the piss out of the car, your car will be the next one with pics posted up burnt to the ground. jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze usssssssssss christ.
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+2 just unplug the damn thing, and see if thats the problem. hell if it is ill give you mine just so you dont hack the piss outta your car, oh and you will also have to switch your wheels around :D
 
chicken said:
+2 just unplug the damn thing, and see if thats the problem. hell if it is ill give you mine just so you dont hack the piss outta your car, oh and you will also have to switch your wheels around :D
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The more I post, the more apparent my lack of car knowledge is :(

I figured a switch was a simple fix... well, Ill gladly switch my wheels around for an amp :)

*wink*wink*
 
chicken said:
i wanna see a pic of them facing the correct way first
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Jesus Fahk!! I gotta take the car in for an alignment, so Ill have them correct it then.

Actually, I gotta take it in for the recall, and a tune up - any idea what FORD would charge for a tune up? I'd do it myself (since surprisingly I know how to do that) but I cant get to the back 2 plugs :(
 
Dude, sell your car and buy an escort please? Your car is going to be the next one we see Jamie parting out...
 
DieselDan said:
Dude, sell your car and buy an escort please? Your car is going to be the next one we see Jamie parting out...
Click to expand...


I wouldnt go that far.. I think many less knowledgeable people have attempted far greater tasks then installing a switch.
 
Unplug the amp until you take it in for the recall, let Ford or Lincoln do your tune up if you can't. Get the wheels swapped back around when they do the alignment but if you have a dead battery before you go, you'll know it's the amp. I'm still thinking it's a stuck seat motor drawing power.
 
NoLimit95 said:
Unplug the amp until you take it in for the recall, let Ford or Lincoln do your tune up if you can't. Get the wheels swapped back around when they do the alignment but if you have a dead battery before you go, you'll know it's the amp. I'm still thinking it's a stuck seat motor drawing power.
Click to expand...


I dont know if you saw, but I took out the fuse for the amp/radio and my battery has been fine - so its def one of these. (probably amp)

What would ford charge for a tune up?
 
why dont you ask the friggin dealer what a tune up costs? they are the ones going to do it. jeeze
 
BodyByAAS said:
What would ford charge for a tune up?
Click to expand...

too much, why cant you get the back 2 plugs? all you need is a ratchet and some extensions. just be careful not to strip the heads, some of the plug holes only have 2 complete threads, the torque setting is crazy low. and id get a couple spark plug boots, just in case. when i did my first tune up on mine 3 of the boots stretched over a foot long due to the valve cover tower seals leaking oil into the wells and turning the rubber into mush
 
If you cant tune a Mark VIII then you really should not try to touch the switch mod you wanna do.
I have never owned a car that was so easy to tune. Pull out 8 plugs, put in 8 properly gapped copper plugs. Job done. No special tools. I have a 9" extension and thats it!
No timing adjustment, no wires to swap, no gapping points...... gawd its so freakin easy!
If a COP boot is cracked then you replace it. Nuttin to it!
 
LaserSVT said:
If you cant tune a Mark VIII then you really should not try to touch the switch mod you wanna do.
I have never owned a car that was so easy to tune. Pull out 8 plugs, put in 8 properly gapped copper plugs. Job done. No special tools. I have a 9" extension and thats it!
No timing adjustment, no wires to swap, no gapping points...... gawd its so freakin easy!
If a COP boot is cracked then you replace it. Nuttin to it!
Click to expand...

I thought there was more to it, My 5.0 I would swap all the time - same with my old LS1 - but this, looks more.. Complicated. Im guessing I need to remove a bunch of :q:q:q:q to get to the plugs right cause I dont see anything.
 
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