Stainless Steel Rear Shock Mounts

98lincmk7lsc

98lincmk7lsc

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I recently had these made at work with a water jet. They allow for easily using Thunderbird rear shocks in Mark VIII's. I was originally going to partner up with DLF to get the studs/bolts welded into them, but he's been busy tending to his mother out of state, and I need a set of them now. The right rear shock in my 97 is leaking everywhere and the stock mount bushings are horribly shot. At 150k miles, I'm pretty sure they're the original shocks! :eek:

Anyway, I'm gonna have a guy at work weld the studs/bolts into them. I just need to know the thread pitch and size. I'm gonna guess at M8 x 1.25, but I'm not sure. I know I could find out myself, but I've got a bunch of other crap on my schedule right now, and it's hot outside.

I'll offer a set of these at half price to the first person that can get me the size on these.

I'm not really sure what the final price is gonna be, but I'm gonna shoot for $40 shipped on them. I think that's reasonable. It'll probably depend on whether or not the welder wants any money to do this for me.
They're 304 Stainless Steel and will use Stainless Steel fasteners. I'll also bead-blast them so they're nice and pretty. You'll be able to have them powder-coated or painted if you want, or you can just leave them the way they are.

So anyway, someone let me know on the fastener size please!

Here's a link where Driller used similar mounts with Monroe Sensa-Trac bushings

Here's what I've got...
You can see in the first picture that 2 of them didn't cut the full hole out, but that's an easy fix.

IMG_0952.jpg

IMG_0954.jpg
 
Do you guys think I should sell them just bead-blasted, or painted? They're stainless, so it shouldn't matter, but I'd like to know what you guys would want...
 
Make sure to use stainless welding rods when attaching the SS stuff to these or it defeats the purpose of making them in SS ;)
If you feel like painting them to cover the weld it might be an idea, just throw a quick coat on em?
 
When I bought mine from Jamie, they were painted flat black and came with lock nuts and washers. If I saw stainless next to black, I would go for the black because it had more of a professional OEM look, if that makes sense. I guess I got lucky when I bought mine but they were only $30 for both and I used Monroe Sensatrac's and the clunking sound I had vanished. That was the most annoying noise. Even at $40 for a pair, it's worth it to be getting stainless mounts and getting rid of that damn clunk noise.
 
Icarus said:
Make sure to use stainless welding rods when attaching the SS stuff to these or it defeats the purpose of making them in SS ;)
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but of course I will...

danny_holtermann said:
i would pc them
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I could have guessed that. Lol.

NoLimit95 said:
Even at $40 for a pair, it's worth it to be getting stainless mounts and getting rid of that damn clunk noise.
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yeah, I thought it's a good price for the material you're getting. Keep in mind DLF was talking about charging $50-$60 and many people were interested.

SATURN5 said:
How much for a set as is? (no bolts)
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umm...I guess like $30 shipped. Why do you want a set that way?
 
Well, I'd also like a pair without the bolts.

I was planning on using 8mm x 1.25mm x 25mm button head bolts, although with the 1/4" thick plates, you might want to use 30mm long bolts.

And, I'll be home on the 16th, Mom's better now. :)
 
Just wondering guys, why would you want to spend the extra jack to powder coat or even spend money on stainless steel, when the shock mounts are hidden? Have you ever heard of one rusting out? Not being a smart-a$$, just trying to understand.
 
Well I'm guessing you've seen as many or more than most members here Eddie, I'm guessing you should know ... But do you have any other suggestions that we could use?
 
Yay!! That's great news. I'm glad to hear it. I don't know what it was, but I imagine it must have been pretty serious for the length of time involved
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
Eddie has a point. With them being stainless steel, any coating applied would be purely cosmetic.
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Just that it is but if you got a set in the mail, would you want them to be plain stainless or would they look better (in your eyes) if they had a flat black coat on them? I wouldn't go through powder coating but i would shoot them with primer and then a couple of coats of flat black but that's just me. Not like they're huge and it's gonna take a lot of paint.

Not sure if mine were painted or powder coated but they looked nice and professional looking being black but as Eddie said, they're hidden and I haven't seen them since. It was just a first impression thing I guess.

As for $50 or $60 for a set, I would never pay it but for $40, you're making it worth it.
 
American Air-1 said:
Just wondering guys, why would you want to spend the extra jack to powder coat or even spend money on stainless steel, when the shock mounts are hidden? Have you ever heard of one rusting out? Not being a smart-a$$, just trying to understand.
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Another reason I would coat them and protect from rust but not powder coat cash. Just a shot of primer and a couple of shots of flat black and be done with it. Cheap cover and looks good.
 
NoLimit95 said:
Another reason I would coat them and protect from rust but not powder coat cash. Just a shot of primer and a couple of shots of flat black and be done with it. Cheap cover and looks good.
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I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but you do know that stainless steel isn't going to rust, right?
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but you do know that stainless steel isn't going to rust, right?
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Depends what type...I've seen many so called "stainless steel" components on a car that pitted up and then rusted...granted nowhere near as fast as regular steel, but it did rust if you didn't continually clean it.
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
I don't want to sound like an a-hole, but you do know that stainless steel isn't going to rust, right?
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Yes, I know the plate itself isn't going to rust (or not supposed to) but you were doing some welding weren't you? With welding, you can have corrosion and or rust. I'm mainly saying that being a solid color just looks better and at the same time, why not go ahead and make sure it's all protected?
 
NoLimit95 said:
Yes, I know the plate itself isn't going to rust (or not supposed to) but you were doing some welding weren't you? With welding, you can have corrosion and or rust. I'm mainly saying that being a solid color just looks better and at the same time, why not go ahead and make sure it's all protected?
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You weld 304 with a 308 filler rod, it doesn't rust.
 
Got the first set made today...

I must say, they look great! I love how they turned out. I'm gonna end up using shorter bolts for the rest of them. These were 40mm and are pretty freakin' long.

These are obviously not painted, but could be pretty easily. They are just bead-blasted right now. I really like the looks of a nice bead-blasted piece of metal. I'm not sure why, I just like it. :)

Here's a couple pictures....
On the second picture it looks kinda like a crack or something on the right side....It's not. That's where the water jet started cutting and subsequently ended on it's way around. It's just a little ridge.

IMG_0957.jpg

IMG_0958.jpg
 
Thanks! I always try to do good work. It doesn't always work out that way, but I think I did good this time. :D:cool:
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
Thanks! I always try to do good work. It doesn't always work out that way, but I think I did good this time. :D:cool:
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Hell, on 2nd thought, I wouldn't even bother with paint. I think they turned out good like they are. Mine look identical but were black. I think those are well worth $40 as is. Turned out better than I expected. Good job!
 
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