LaserSVT 98 White Pearlescent Progress Thread

I have also had bad issues with the knock sensor pulling 6* timing after 4100 rpm. Car would command 28* and then the knock sensore would pull as much as it could and there was still detonation. I pulled out 6* all together but still saw a 3* knock sensor pull around 4400 -5200 RPM but it still pulled .25* by shifting points.
I then realized I misscalculated my fuel curve and when I thought I was adding fuel from 4K up I was actually pulling fuel. :(
I just remapped it and added enough fuel for a calculated 12.49 AFR after 4K and about 12.7 from 2800-3900 all under WOT runs. That doesnt meen thats what it will run but since I did have it set for 13.0 from 4K on I bet that was my detonation issue.

Will data log tomorrow and see if it worked. :)
 
LaserSVT said:
I have also had bad issues with the knock sensor pulling 6* timing after 4100 rpm. Car would command 28* and then the knock sensore would pull as much as it could and there was still detonation. I pulled out 6* all together but still saw a 3* knock sensor pull around 4400 -5200 RPM but it still pulled .25* by shifting points.
I then realized I misscalculated my fuel curve and when I thought I was adding fuel from 4K up I was actually pulling fuel. :(
I just remapped it and added enough fuel for a calculated 12.49 AFR after 4K and about 12.7 from 2800-3900 all under WOT runs. That doesnt mean thats what it will run but since I did have it set for 13.0 from 4K on I bet that was my detonation issue.
Will data log tomorrow and see if it worked. :)
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FWIW

I've run my '98 Cobra with a flat 13.0 AFR @ WOT all the way from 2K to 7K for 8+ years, without issues, and I'm running that same 13.0 AFR on my LSC now. :cool:

Do you mean to say that you're just guessing what the actual AFR is, and you're not checking it with a WBO2? :eek:
 
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kustomizingkid said:
I'd lean it out a little bit more... more power...
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Kid, If you're talking to me, nope, a 13.0 AFR produces the most power on my Cobra. Been checked more than once on both the dyno and the track.

And I'm using that tune as a starting point for the LSC, and so far, so good.
 
DLF said:
FWIW

I've run my '98 Cobra with a flat 13.0 AFR @ WOT all the way from 2K to 7K for 8+ years, without issues, and I'm running that same 13.0 AFR on my LSC now. :cool:

Do you mean to say that you're just guessing what the actual AFR is, and you're not checking it with a WBO2? :eek:
Click to expand...
No wide band yet. Will be another month before I can afford my PLX gauges.
In the SCT software it lets you enter a target AFR in Lambda. When I do the conversion I was shooting for 12.5ish. It may not be anywhere near that but I have added more fuel then the can SCT tune wants because I do know how to read the data log and see whats happening. If the cars knock sensor is getting a knock reading its one of two things (or both). Too much timing and too little fuel. After pulling 6* out of the base and still having minor knock past 4100 rpm was telling me I didnt have enough fuel and sure enough the SCT tune was very agressive at WOT in the upper RPMs with leaning it out for peak HP. In my car it was just a little too lean.

I just took it for a drive and now I am not getting any pull from the knock sensor and its usually adding .5-1.25* timing so I think I did pretty good with my tune.

With me rewriting just about everything my car shifts so fast and smoth at partial throttle you dont even feel it yet at WOT it barks third hard. Car does not surge or crackle at all. No backfires and no flat spots in its acceleration.
If you can read code and a data log you dont need a wideband for a mild NA setup.
It WILL have one for the blower because you cant risk that 14.6 spike under boost. When I tune it for the blower it will be very conservative and run 12.0 untill 4K where I will ramp it to 11.75, not sure what we will do when I decide to up the boost down the road.
 
LaserSVT said:
No wide band yet. Will be another month before I can afford my PLX gauges.
In the SCT software it lets you enter a target AFR in Lambda. When I do the conversion I was shooting for 12.5ish. It may not be anywhere near that but I have added more fuel then the can SCT tune wants because I do know how to read the data log and see whats happening. If the cars knock sensor is getting a knock reading its one of two things (or both). Too much timing and too little fuel. After pulling 6* out of the base and still having minor knock past 4100 rpm was telling me I didnt have enough fuel and sure enough the SCT tune was very agressive at WOT in the upper RPMs with leaning it out for peak HP. In my car it was just a little too lean.

I just took it for a drive and now I am not getting any pull from the knock sensor and its usually adding .5-1.25* timing so I think I did pretty good with my tune.

With me rewriting just about everything my car shifts so fast and smoth at partial throttle you dont even feel it yet at WOT it barks third hard. Car does not surge or crackle at all. No backfires and no flat spots in its acceleration.
If you can read code and a data log you dont need a wideband for a mild NA setup.
It WILL have one for the blower because you cant risk that 14.6 spike under boost. When I tune it for the blower it will be very conservative and run 12.0 untill 4K where I will ramp it to 11.75, not sure what we will do when I decide to up the boost down the road.
Click to expand...

Well good luck. ;) BTW, I run 11.8 in my SC @ 16 lbs.

And, I've had the SCT Pro Racer pkg since it came out, my racer # is RA12, I'm pretty familiar with it. :rolleyes:
 
DLF said:
Kid, If you're talking to me, nope, a 13.0 AFR produces the most power on my Cobra. Been checked more than once on both the dyno and the track.

And I'm using that tune as a starting point for the LSC, and so far, so good.
Click to expand...


If you have the data to back it up then I trust the data more than anything... and when I said lean it out I meant richer... lol... I don't think well in AFR... I think much better in lambda...
 
This freakin blower is eating my lunch! Holy crap i have to spend almost as much on the supporting mods as I payed for the freakin blower.

I am thankful for the help I am getting on here and please keep up the info. Its upsetting when I get a PM saying "OH yeah, you need a Lightning MAF" or "And an adjustable FPR" but its info needed and parts I need on hand to do this dam thing.

Parts I have:
Blower
Plenum
Belts
hardware
255lph pump
tuner


Parts I need:
Injectors (pref 42lb Lightnings)
Cobra fuel rail
PLX gauges (have good contact for those)
Throttle cable (have to order from KB as its very specific)
6psi pully for a KB
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (open for cheap ideas)
Lightning MAF
Adapter and hot air filter since I bet the LMAF wont fit in the stock air box
Trans cooler (thanks SVO)
J-mod parts (order from Max)
 
lasersvt said:
parts i need:
Injectors (pref 42lb lightnings) use the 39lb cobra ones, with a $30 adapters from frpp. Total cost $130 on avg.

cobra fuel rail i doubt you actually need this. Since you can use g2 rail with the cobra intake, i bet the same applies here. Of course it won't be a bolt on, but then the supply and return lines won't work either with the cobra rail.

plx gauges (have good contact for those) that's all your choice.

throttle cable (have to order from kb as its very specific) i highly doubt there anything specific about this. You will be using your own tb, so ends will connect no problem. Then just fab up the bracket to mount it to the blower case, just like you do when installing the cobra intake.

6psi pully for a kb can't help you there, but i'd go smaller anyway.
adjustable fuel pressure regulator (open for cheap ideas) what's wrong with the stock regulator ?
lightning maf lighting or 03-04 cobra
adapter and hot air filter since i bet the lmaf wont fit in the stock air box make sure you get an 03-04 cobra intake tube; it will fit tons better than the 96-98 cobra one ... No interference with the a/c lines.
trans cooler (thanks svo)
j-mod parts (order from max)
Click to expand...

Don't blow it all out of proportion. SVO appears to me that he can think outside the box. Spend money wisely.
 
The cable is specific as the people who have installed this blower on Marks say you NEED the KB throttle cable.
As for the rail I am talking 96-98 rail cause the dual FPR setup on our fuel rails WONT CLEAR THE BLOWER.

Id like to use the stock box setup so if I can make the LMAF fit then I will. But if I cant its good to know the 03/04 Cobra pipe fits well. That just meens I will have to run a cone filter and fab up some kind of heat shield.
 
LaserSVT said:
The cable is specific as the people who have installed this blower on Marks say you NEED the KB throttle cable.
As for the rail I am talking 96-98 rail cause the dual FPR setup on our fuel rails WONT CLEAR THE BLOWER.

Id like to use the stock box setup so if I can make the LMAF fit then I will. But if I cant its good to know the 03/04 Cobra pipe fits well. That just meens I will have to run a cone filter and fab up some kind of heat shield.
Click to expand...

Dont' want to argue with you as it's your money, but what can be specific about a cable ?

If you look at the mounting spot for the cable bracket, it's exactly the same as on a 96-98 cobra intake. For a reason, since you are supposed to reuse the bracket. Cut out a piece of the g2 bracket to fit in that location, and you're done.

How much is that "specific" cable ?

Have you tested the g2 rail yet ?

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No I havent test fitted it yet as I dont have the blower yet. BUT one FPR sits where the inlet is on the blower.

I have been told by people who have done this swap that I need Cobra rails.

I guess I will have to wait and see......
 
And for all I know you may be spot on maker. At this ppoint I can only go by what I have been told. The blower should be at home when I get off and I can take a better look. I dont really want to pull off my fuel rail to test fit it but again, I want an adjustable reg and since the gen 2 has two small ones it seemes a different rail would be the better choice.

I thought I would just get the UPR $80 rails and the $95 FPR but see I would also need a distribution block and all the hoses and fittings and that pushes it to $300. :(
 
Clunk clunk clunk.

Whats that clunkin noise?


Welllllll....... turns out I over shimed the old sway bar link bushings too much and destroyed one. They were only rubber anyway so was a fine time to upgrade to poly. Stopped by the local Vatozone and got the kit for $12. :)


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Well I put about 900 miles on them so far and they seem to be holding up well. Normally by now I would see some wear.
 
New parts today! :wrench
My Addco 1.25" front sway bar finally showed up. I see in the instructions it says to use the spacers under the mounts on the T-birds but has nothing for a Mark install. I would assume since the front suspensions are dang near identical that I would still use the spacers?

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Use Energy Suspension Bushings, p/n 95172, and skip the spacers. They're better bushings, greaseable, and they sit just a bit higher than the stockers.

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