DIY Transmission Full Fluid Exchange (Flush)

yeah of course why didn't you?

No specific reason other than perhaps I didn't want the hose flying out of the hole and spraying fluid everywhere. Since I had my own adapter to fill via the level check plug, it was nice and secure.
 
No specific reason other than perhaps I didn't want the hose flying out of the hole and spraying fluid everywhere. Since I had my own adapter to fill via the level check plug, it was nice and secure.

i assure you its just as secure if you make sure the tube is properly inside and probably just as "nice" it just seems odd to me to fill where the fluid drains out of like having to fill up engine oil from the drain plug but the 2006 does not have the fill plug so some people will have to use your way instead of moving forward and adding a dipstick to the 06 model Lincoln decided to move a step back and remove the fill plug
 
update turns out i was low on fluid 2 litres low

when i drained the fluid from the inner plug i got one litre of fluid out then another two from the bigger plug i added the 3 litres back plus another two after driving a few times the transmission shifts like brand new

i guess i wasn't checking the fluid level the proper way because fluid that shouldn't of drained out did which is how i ended up with low fluid level to begin with

i hope i never have to deal with transmission problems ever again! good thing the low fluid level (for almost one year) didn't damage the new solenoid pack or transmission

if you're going to check fluid level yourself make sure you know exactly what your doing otherwise fluid will drain out that shouldnt and you'll think its at the correct level


the way i checked was with the engine at normal operating temp i went trough each gear then put it in park and jack up the car which took about 15 mins and then i would open inner plug which i now realise made it pointless the gears should be shifted and checked right away but i was afraid of the skinny scissor jacks failing if i changed gears once the car was on jack stands
 
Yeah only 3L in the pan is not enough. Hopefully that will be it for you. Check back in a few weeks?
 
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Where #2 attaches to the radiator is difficult to access, so I unplugged mine at the metal line (just below where #2 is pointing).

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the bottom one right? the one without the white sticker? the one that connects higher up on the radiator?

doesn't matter which i use does it? i would rather use the metal line because i have a plastic hose i can connect onto it to use as an extension rubber hose not long enough

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It does matter because then some old fluid will stay in the cooler.

Top line (on cooler) is the return. Reaching it right at the cooler was going to require too much effort, so I traced it (the upper return hose) from the cooler, to the point where it attaches to the metal line. I unplugged the rubber hose, directed into a bucket, and made sure to plug the open end of the metal line with something (otherwise fluid will come out of there too).

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Funny, my hose clamps were worm gear type.
 
... my hose clamps were worm gear type.

Same here, gotta tighten mine up some, a bit of leakage on both lines.

M4rk, this spring/summer you're going to have to come visit me and I'll let you help me change out my Trans fluids.
If not, I'm driving down south so Hite can install the Transgo shift kit in it for me ... j/k (kinda)
 
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where is this i'm guessing gear selector supposed to be when in park i tired to move the cable its connected to out of the way to close the solenoid electrical connector and heard a ping i guess it moved back

is it in the right position now? i don't want to have to drop the pan again

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No idea, sorry - check the service manual.


BigRig, sure thing. It has to warm up a bit..
 
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one of the easiest DIY

I changed solenoid pack transmission filter and did the full fluid exchange easiest part was the full fluid exchange

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Didn't you already do the solenoid a while back? How did it shift since the level check anyway?
 
I have no luck at all

after changing the solenoid pack twice ($800.00+) i still have harsh shifts kicks into reverse and drive shifts in drive are not as bad but still not normal

first time i changed the solenoid seemed to cure shifts from P and drive but my shifts in drive were still kinda harsh after a few months the shifts from P to R and D got worse so i thought maybe the "bad" marcon V fluid damaged my new solenoid so i changed solenoid pack transmission filter again and this time did full fluid exchange and i still have exact same problem


now i'm thinking its the PCM or Tasca parts is sending me garbage solenoids or in worst case internal transmission problem

the only time i get normal shifting in all gears is when i do a battery rest procedure but this only lasts a week at the most then its back to harsh shifts

did some research http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/easing-harsh-engagements-lincoln-ls-5r55s

LINCOLN LS 5R55S HARSH ENGAGEMENTS AND/OR HARSH SHIFTS

Before or after an overhaul, 2003 and newer Lincoln LS vehicles equipped with the 5R55S transmission may exhibit a complaint of harsh engagements and/or harsh up-shifts (especially the 1-2), with no codes stored in the PCM. This complaint will typically come into ATSG's technical hot line as the reason the vehicle came to the shop in the first place. During overhaul the solenoid assembly was replaced and at times a complete valve body yet the problem remained.




The cause may be a PCM that is incorrectly controlling solenoids producing high main line pressure. This style transmission has three pressure control solenoids with which to control shift feel. Pressure Control Solenoids A, B and C otherwise referred to as PCS A, PCS B and PCS C.


what do you think joger? anything else comes to mind other then solenoid pack?
 
I've seen a few (very few) cases where the PCM was determined to be the problem. (Determined by replacing the PCM and the issue going away.) There have also been some PCM FLASH updates for shifting issues.
 
I've seen a few (very few) cases where the PCM was determined to be the problem. (Determined by replacing the PCM and the issue going away.) There have also been some PCM FLASH updates for shifting issues.

are second generation 2004-2006 PCMs interchangeable?
 
should of taken this guys advice from jeep wrangler forum google search

i did a google search and got this info from jeep wrangler forum

"I had your same issue. You know that the hard shifiting goes away when you reset your PCM. Mark my words, it will return in a few days. I tried every trick in the book and it never went away. UNTIL, I replaced the PCM. With the remanufactured one, I have put 5000 miles on my TJ and it hasn't shifted hard ever since. Find a remanufactured PCM, get it programmed to your year, make, VIN, ETC. Very easy install. Spend the money on it now instead of having the dealer nickle and dime you to insanity.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/hard-shift-1st-2nd-when-cold-863301/index3.html



"2006 Lincoln Zephyr, 90,000 mi
Was told by a lincoln service shop the car needs a new Valve Body. They say the diagnostic report came back without any codes. Problem began with the LED panel on the instrument cluster working intermittently. Then I noticed it sometimes didn't shift smoothly. Finally, there are sometimes clunking noises, and sometimes a different noise when turning. Other times the car drives fine. The car went from having a clean bill of health at 84K to all these problems at 90K. All regular maintenance and oil changes have been done and the car is not driven hard. I understand this is a known problem with Ford/Lincoln transmissions."

i thought only the LS had transmission problems the more i research the more i learn that most ford/lincoln cars have transmission problems including their trucks


Ford Mustang Transmission Problems 20 Dec 2013
Ford Escort Wagon Transmission Problems 18 Dec 2013
Lincoln Mark LT Transmission Problems 17 Feb 2012
Lincoln LS Transmission Problems 7 Apr 2006

note to self NEVER BUY FORD/LINCOLN car again
 
are second generation 2004-2006 PCMs interchangeable?

They should be, but again I can't give a 100% guarantee on that. Do remember that you will not be able to start the car after changing the PCM. A dealer or someone with a good scan tool will have to "remarry" all the keys and the cluster to the new PCM.
 
....how i wish i had bought a Honda or a Toyota like everyone else...only thing i would have to do is change the oil...the world would be a much better place if i owned a Prius Toyota

It all depends. My sister has had one problem after another with her Camry. Of course, she's had a lot of trouble with all the cars (different makes) that she's had.
I've had very little trouble with any of the cars that I've had (different makes).
I think that something other than the make of the car may be a bigger factor in the reliability.
 
It all depends. My sister has had one problem after another with her Camry. Of course, she's had a lot of trouble with all the cars (different makes) that she's had.
I've had very little trouble with any of the cars that I've had (different makes).
I think that something other than the make of the car may be a bigger factor in the reliability.

my sympathies for your sister her and i have no luck at all when it comes to cars
 
Seeing as it shifts fine after a battery reset, I would think it's not a physical problem with the tranny itself.
 
Seeing as it shifts fine after a battery reset, I would think it's not a physical problem with the tranny itself.

another strange thing about battery reset once i reset the battery whenever i change gears rpm at idle goes down engine shakes a little like its going to turn off but rpm goes back to normal when this happenes the car shifts normal into R OR D and when driving

normal shifts and rpm going down at ilde when i change gears come and go simultaneously after battery reset....i dont know could be just the idle and fuel being relearned


i'm thinking about replacing PCM but its a gamble a $400.00/$500.00 gamble
 
joegr have you heard of valve body failing on 2004 V6 LS? or transmission servo bore?
 

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