what kind of wax is best

:rolleyes:

Some people prefer to use quality products. I can get 50 applications out of a pot of wax that's under $200. Roughly 4 bucks a coat is hardly a "stupid price" when a run through the auto washes are $10+.

Please feel free to give your expert opinion on detailing products when you can correctly identify a polish and a glaze.

If you think $200 is a "stupid" price, check out Zymol Royale, Zymol Vintage, or any of the Swissvax waxes.

Dude, it's not a slam to you at all.. If you can get 50 applications out of a jar, that is a pretty good deal, if you wax a lot. Most people have no use for 50 coats of wax within a 3 to 4 year shelf life, unless you have 5 vehicles and triple coat every one of them twice a year.

That's partly why I buy the S100. It's a great wax of which I pay 15 bucks for a small jar, which I will be able to finish within its shelf life. No need to pay for a sustainable hardwood or facet edged container. Frills don't help the car look better, just my $0.02

Mirror Glaze is a decent polish if you don't need any abrasiveness. It's a polish, not a compound.
 
Please feel free to give your expert opinion on detailing products when you can correctly identify a polish and a glaze.

And this is why I pay someone to detail my car. Because I am lazy and don't want to know :p

I just want to know enough to tell if they did it right. You know, that whole don't care how the bread is made, just if it's white wheat or rye thing.
 
Optimum Car Wax and Duragloss Aquawax are very similar. And they are available in gallon jugs. Which works awesome for me, as I go through a LOT of detail spray. I haven't tried the one you listed, but sounds similar. Another one I really enjoy is Finish Kare 425. it is anti-static, so dust doesn't gather as quickly on the surface.

Be interested in trying those, but the Lucas stuff is available anywhere now. Even Walmart (Hey Forrest Lucas has got the Colts stadium to pay for!)

For $9/16oz. NOTHING shines better. Even the best Griot's stuff I've tried. Try it. You'll thank me later!
 
I don't really have a wax I use consistently, I buy a different one each time and haven't found something I am partial too yet. Currently I have meguairs NXT 2.0, while it is nice shine and easy to apply/buff I think if I spit on the car it could last longer.

With that being said, I don't bother in the winter. It's awful here, there is a really good car wash down the road and I use it. It does the job during winter when all I want to do is get all the crud off. Now that spring is right around the corner I might try that Klasse stuff mentioned above. Sounds too good to be true, and if Bullschmidt is using it then that it good enough for me, his car looks like pure sex.
 
Thanks for the clarification, guess I misunderstood your post.

A wax essentially has no shelf life, as long as you don't let any of the solvents/oils evaporate, and the wax components do not separate. I know of a couple guys who are big Zymol fans, and have very old waxes with hand written serial numbers from when they first started.

I keep my Supernatural in a ziplock bag, just to make sure it's as leakproof as possible.

As far as polishes/compounds: Both polishes and compounds by definition (as it relates to detailing) are both abrasive, and remove defects by agitating those abrasives. This results in removing a slight amount of the paint film, with the goal being removing the layer of film with the defects (swirl marks/waterspots/etc.).

A glaze, on the other hand, normally has oils/fillers in it to enhance shine and fill in defects. Meguiar's #7 is properly labeled as "show car glaze". It is VERY oily, and typically is not meant for any type of lasting fix/durability/whatever. It is simply a beauty product, not a correction product, if that makes sense.
 
I don't really have a wax I use consistently, I buy a different one each time and haven't found something I am partial too yet. Currently I have meguairs NXT 2.0, while it is nice shine and easy to apply/buff I think if I spit on the car it could last longer.

With that being said, I don't bother in the winter. It's awful here, there is a really good car wash down the road and I use it. It does the job during winter when all I want to do is get all the crud off. Now that spring is right around the corner I might try that Klasse stuff mentioned above. Sounds too good to be true, and if Bullschmidt is using it then that it good enough for me, his car looks like pure sex.

It is good stuff. I have a liter of it on my shelf. I really like using it on glass and metal surfaces.

Collinite 845 is a badass winter wax (not to mention all around great wax). Though I do not believe it is a carnauba product. I think it's actually a petroleum based product. Can't remember exactly though. I do know that 2 coats of 845 will most definitely last through a MN winter.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liq...&qid=1363669239&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+845

Yields this... Hands down best wax I've ever used..

8545660695_493a8319de.jpg

404403_10151423883568476_172904711_n by BLWNBYU, on Flickr

Do you have a pic of the whole car after applying this wax
Wanna see how much shine it gives to a cars paint
 
Very interesting thread here again, we had one similar last year.

I'm currently a customer of the Lucas Oil Slick Mist quick wax but fully understand it's not all that's involved.
This upcoming season, I'd like to get into it a bit more in depth and understand how it's supposed to be done properly.
I know my glass, even on it's best days, with some condensation I can see some crap I just can't seem to polish clear.
May have to clay bar the glass from what I understand.

That Collinite 845 does look interesting and I may give it a try.
FK1000p is on my list to try as well.

Just going to keep an eye on what Pektel's recommendations are first.
It is after all his business ... just want to make sure it's something I can financially justify.

A $200 jar of wax is not on my list but I understand why Pektel uses it.
4 dollars per coat, per customer is money all day long.
 
It is good stuff. I have a liter of it on my shelf. I really like using it on glass and metal surfaces.

Collinite 845 is a badass winter wax (not to mention all around great wax). Though I do not believe it is a carnauba product. I think it's actually a petroleum based product. Can't remember exactly though. I do know that 2 coats of 845 will most definitely last through a MN winter.

What do you do to get the salt off your car in the winter? There is a high quality car wash in my area that I just decided to get a membership to ($35 a month for unlimited washes) for the winter because I hate the idea of salt spending more than a few hours on my car.
 
That's my biggest concern too, the salt. Car wash memberships? That's new to me but okay then. The one I go too doesn't take member ships but it is 12$ for the best wash, hell, it even applies rainx and tire shine and for an added cost you can have a guy come out and polish your wheels.

Maybe if I had a garage I'd do this myself in the winter.
 
I've never tried a Mother's product that has impressed me.

Meguiar's, on the other hand has a great lineup, but stay away from their consumer lineup. Their M105/101/205 polishes along with their microfiber buffing pads on a random orbital polisher do yield excellent results. Actually, their quik interior detailer isn't bad from their consumer line.

You're talking about The meguiars that comes in clear bottles
Their professional line?
 
Why do you guys salt your cars? Do you also add pepper? ;)
 
Collinite works great.

If your paint is dull, wax can only do so much. A good polish will make your car look amazing again. If polishing is too much right now, claying it and waxing will be the next best thing.

This... Wax isn't what makes your car smooth and shiny. It just keeps the dirt off and makes water repel..

Here's my freshly buffed Cobra.. No wax yet...

392839_10151485535513476_1373471075_n_zps5f21eacf.jpg
 
Do you have a pic of the whole car after applying this wax
Wanna see how much shine it gives to a cars paint

Wax isn't what makes the car shiny... It just protects it and helps keep it clean, but here's a picture a few weeks after waxing it anyway

8545584277_dcf66b270c_b.jpg

Low F by BLWNBYU, on Flickr
 
Off topic but, how many stops did you use for this and what program do you use for your HDR's
 
I'm planning on getting a professional to completely detail my car's exterior for me this spring. After that I plan on getting one of those Mequires polish kits (d40 or something like that, or maybe Ill just get a porter, we will see) and just upkeeping it myself twice a year. Its bad enough that for the first time at least I want a professional to take care of it
 
I'm planning on getting a professional to completely detail my car's exterior for me this spring. After that I plan on getting one of those Mequires polish kits (d40 or something like that, or maybe Ill just get a porter, we will see) and just upkeeping it myself twice a year. Its bad enough that for the first time at least I want a professional to take care of it

I'd rather let someone who does polishing day in and day out do the work once a year. The rest of the time I wouldn't have any issues doing the wash and wax routine. There is a ton of skill that goes into polishing, specially if you want to get good enough to buff out orange peel without requiring a paint job. I don't have the confidence and it's worth the $200 once a year to let a professional give it a proper polish and finish. Just my opinion.

Definitely wanna do like the others said and go pick up some weather-beaten body panels on the cheap and practice on 'em. A body shop might be a good place to start. Damn sure want to have SOMEONE ELSE watch you practice to make sure you are doing it right.
 
I'd rather let someone who does polishing day in and day out do the work once a year. The rest of the time I wouldn't have any issues doing the wash and wax routine. There is a ton of skill that goes into polishing, specially if you want to get good enough to buff out orange peel without requiring a paint job. I don't have the confidence and it's worth the $200 once a year to let a professional give it a proper polish and finish. Just my opinion.

You do not buff out orange peel, you sand it. It is fine and completely understandable that you would want to let someone else do the work, but there are plenty of benefits to doing it yourself. It is not overly difficult. You will almost always have more attention to detail when doing it, which can make a huge difference in the long run. There is only so much paint between you and bare metal, and a "professional" is going to go the quickest route in paint correction. That may mean they chew through more paint than you would on your own. Over time, that adds up and you quite literally can run out of paint to correct.
 
You do not buff out orange peel, you sand it. It is fine and completely understandable that you would want to let someone else do the work, but there are plenty of benefits to doing it yourself. It is not overly difficult. You will almost always have more attention to detail when doing it, which can make a huge difference in the long run. There is only so much paint between you and bare metal, and a "professional" is going to go the quickest route in paint correction. That may mean they chew through more paint than you would on your own. Over time, that adds up and you quite literally can run out of paint to correct.

A real "professional" detailer will use the least aggressive method first. My practice is to tape off a panel and do test sections. Start with a mild polish/pad combo to see what it removes. I usually shoot forat least 80% defects removed, unless the customer wants more correction. Most don't care enough about the deeper stuff on their daily driver to pay for more polishing steps and removing more clearcoat.

Wetsanding will remove a considerable amount of clear. It's advantageous to have a PTG meter (one that reads ferrous/nonferrous metals and plastics) to know how much paint you are working with from the start. Then taking multiple readings per panel, as the thickness can vary greatly from panel to panel, and even from the center of the panel to the edge. And to make it even more confusing, if you don't pay thousands for a meter that will give you the thickness of each layer (primer/color/clear), you are only given an overall film thickness reading. You still have no idea how thick the actual clearcoat is. I would not advise a beginner attempt to wetsand.

That being said, a polishing procedure with something like a porter cable and a medium polish/pad combo (Light polishing foam pad and Menzerna Power Finish, for example) a couple times a year should be just fine over the useful life of a vehicle. I would not hit it with a heavy compound every year, but if someone has to do that, they have not learned one of the most important skills in detailing, that for some reason goes overlooked by so many:

LEARN PROPER WASH TECHNIQUE.

All those swirl marks come from touching the paint. Getting the proper washing tools, and learning how to use them to induce the least amount of marring, is the most important thing an owner can do keep their paint looking newer for longer. That, and keeping up with the sealing/waxing to prevent UV rays degrading the clearcoat.

Proper wash technique also saves a lot of time, since any future polishing should be very minimal.
 
Yeah, all the more reason for me to pay someone else to do it. I never did like body work. Too much magic involved in doing it right. I don't have the patience or desire for it.

Going to have to get Pektel to the National LS meet to give proper wash, wax, and polish classes. He'll be in the LS with a utility trailer behind it. LOL
 

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