what kind of wax is best

epikls

epikls

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I'm just curious to see what wax other ls owners use on their car
And which is better
 
How much are you willing to spend to care for your paint? Answers are going to vary. There are some really good older threads if you do a search for them.

Have any pics of your LS?
 
For wax I use S100. Can be found at most Harley Davidson shops. For polish I use Meguiar's #7.
 
I would spend up to 50
Right now I use meguiars nxt 2.0 it gives a good shine
But it doesn't leave the paint as smooth as I like
Would I be able to apply 2-3 coats of it
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will probably get a claybar once i have a chance to go to pepboys or autozone
 
fk1000p. I get ~5mo out of it in summer, also works great on wheels. Has a very unique look to it.
 
Collinite works great.

If your paint is dull, wax can only do so much. A good polish will make your car look amazing again. If polishing is too much right now, claying it and waxing will be the next best thing.
 
stumpie said:
For wax I use S100. Can be found at most Harley Davidson shops. For polish I use Meguiar's #7.
Click to expand...

S100 is identical to P21S. Just FYI.

Meguiar's #7 is a glaze, not a polish. That product will increase the shine, but will not mechanically remove defects like a polish.

I use a variety of different waxes. Haven't kept up on them in a long time, but some of the coatings (opticoat, cquartz, etc.) all look very promising. I use Dodo Juice Supernatural on my LS.
 
I've tried dozens of waxes over the years. My first job in '78 was as a lot boy at a Audi/VW/Fiat dealer. Been a hobby ever since. I've tried everything from Zaino and Griot's, which have very loyal followings, to cheaper products such as Rain Dance and Turtle wax. What I've found to work best is the "step" systems from either Meguiars or Mothers.

If your paint hasn't been looked after for a while, you will need to cut it down. Either wet sanding (1500 or 2000) if it's bad, or an aggressive buff with a medium compound. From there is on to polishing compounds, swirl removers, glaze then finally wax for protection. If you haven't done this before, have a professional do it and offer to "help" to learn. You can ruin your paint by burning it with a buffer and aggressive compound or wet sanding through the clear coat. Go to a body shop and "borrow" a slightly wrecked hood to practice on. Let the buffer do the work. Never press down. Buy a buffer made for this job. Shop at Griot's or Autogeek. Don't use your Dewalt 7" grinder!!!!:eek:

Clay bar is fine if you have nothing in the paint you can see after a thorough washing. If you have water spots or etching from acid rain/pollution fallout, you'll need to get much more aggressive than a clay bar.

For in-between cleaning/detailing, NOTHING shines better or is easier than Lucas Oil Slick Mist quick wax. But if you use that, you won't be able to use other detail sprays as the Lucas stuff IS a wax and will not be compatible with the Meguairs or other detail sprays that are non waxed based.

The Slick Mist is also great on windows and rubber. Who'da thought? Great stuff made in the USA!!:D
 
mothers

I have tried many waxes and I agree that the mothers three step system is a preferred option for me. However if you have a black car the Turtle Wax Black Box works great. It really helps to lessen any small scratches you have. I then would go over it with the mothers wax and possibly the step 2 sealer glaze of that system as well. I haven't tried the step 2 yet, but I will when spring arrives.
 
I've never tried a Mother's product that has impressed me.

Meguiar's, on the other hand has a great lineup, but stay away from their consumer lineup. Their M105/101/205 polishes along with their microfiber buffing pads on a random orbital polisher do yield excellent results. Actually, their quik interior detailer isn't bad from their consumer line.
 
Mustangdanimal said:
For in-between cleaning/detailing, NOTHING shines better or is easier than Lucas Oil Slick Mist quick wax. But if you use that, you won't be able to use other detail sprays as the Lucas stuff IS a wax and will not be compatible with the Meguairs or other detail sprays that are non waxed based.

The Slick Mist is also great on windows and rubber. Who'da thought? Great stuff made in the USA!!:D
Click to expand...

Optimum Car Wax and Duragloss Aquawax are very similar. And they are available in gallon jugs. Which works awesome for me, as I go through a LOT of detail spray. I haven't tried the one you listed, but sounds similar. Another one I really enjoy is Finish Kare 425. it is anti-static, so dust doesn't gather as quickly on the surface.
 
The reason I really like Zaino is it's durability. I can get six months easily here in the sun. It has also allowed me to just do a "quick detail" after a rain. Most "dirt" doesn't stick. It's also relatively inexpensive.
 
You guys in the states have many more options for waxes than we do in Canada. I imagine they would be some that would be better.
 
Man, I feel so lazy. I just drop the car off at the detail shop once a month for a wash/wax/clean, and every 3 months for a full detail (polish, claybar, shampoo, etc). They do use Meguairs and 3M for their polishes and waxes but I have no clue which ones.
 
Just looked up this Dodo Juice. Stupid name - Even more stupid price.
 
stumpie said:
Just looked up this Dodo Juice. Stupid name - Even more stupid price.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes:

Some people prefer to use quality products. I can get 50 applications out of a pot of wax that's under $200. Roughly 4 bucks a coat is hardly a "stupid price" when a run through the auto washes are $10+.

Please feel free to give your expert opinion on detailing products when you can correctly identify a polish and a glaze.

If you think $200 is a "stupid" price, check out Zymol Royale, Zymol Vintage, or any of the Swissvax waxes.
 
I another Collinite user. I like 476 which is a typical paste wax. I just melt a little in my bare hands, smear it on lightly, and buff it off with microfiber. It lasts a loong time and looks great.
 
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