What did you do to your LS today?

Ordered rear rotors (Centric, solid surface) and all 4 stainless steel brake hoses. Not sure why I feel so excited. Maybe because I'm thinking about getting slotted (not drilled) for the front when I get new wheels?
 
Installed the repaired computer into the 2003 LS V8, and it now shifts smoothly. It had a harsh shift when we bought it but not bad, and I just assumed that it's supposed to be a performance sedan, perhaps it has a bit quicker shift point. But, it got worse over time. It now shifts like I would expect it to. While at it, I also replaced the COPs and spark plugs. I didn't pay attention at the time, but the coils in the car were NOT all replaced as I thought. Three of them were numbered by someone with a paint pen, the other 5 were not, so when the dealer told me their records indicated all were replaced under warranty they lied. No matter, all 8 are now replaced.

I'll also note, that while I never had a problem getting to that driver side rear coil cover bolt others have. What I found during this exercise is that if you pull the big plastic cover thingie whose name escapes me, and the shock tower support, you get full and direct access to that bolt. Add in an offset wrench, and it's about as easy to get at as any other bolt out there. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to remove the plastic cover and the shock tower support, and some folks have said that they've spent a couple hours on that bolt, so take it as you will.

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I'll also add, that before replacing hard parts on the transmission that people research their transmission problems on a Ford Explorer board. The Explorer and the LS both have the same transmissions, so if your problem also shows on the Explorer then it's likely to be a transmission part. If it doesn't, then consider starting your repairs with a computer repair. SIA Electronics corrected my issue for 161 plus shipping.
 
That's something else Telco ... two members now that we know of that fixed harsh shifts by means of sending their ECM out for rework. +1


Does jrand know about this?
 
That's something else Telco ... two members now that we know of that fixed harsh shifts by means of sending their ECM out for rework. +1


Does jrand know about this?

Don't you still need to perform the drive cycle to train the new PCM???
 
Funny you should say that. My car's battery was disconnected for 2 weeks, the computer was out of it for 2 weeks, and the first time I drove it the trans shifted fine. No drive cycle procedures performed.
 
Funny you should say that. My car's battery was disconnected for 2 weeks, the computer was out of it for 2 weeks, and the first time I drove it the trans shifted fine. No drive cycle procedures performed.

Ummmm...... You need to reread jrands posts!!! You OBVIOUSLY aren't doing things correctly if everything works fine. :eek:
 
oh this is going to escalate quickly!

faster then I could put a PeanutButterAndJealous sandwich together!
 
It's so relieving and rare that we find a cheap fix that ACTUALLY works for our cars so kudos to whomever (I think Gus) who recommended SIA Electronics for the PCM. IDK how they do it, but honestly my car shifts better and drives better than the day I bought it 4 years ago.
 
... who recommended SIA Electronics for the PCM ...

This is the name "SIA Electronics for the PCM" we are going to want to remember. +1
(mine shifts fine btw, but a just in case notation)

wait a sec ... ECM or PCM?



I still believe Jrand and Jrocc are the same person...

Jrocc was more fun though!

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This is the name "SIA Electronics for the PCM" we are going to want to remember. +1
(mine shifts fine btw, but a just in case notation)

wait a sec ... ECM or PCM?

I believe ECM and PCM are interchangeable terms but the "correct" term for the LS is PCM.
 
Powertrain control module (PCM), sometimes the functions of the Engine Control Unit and transmission control unit (TCU) are combined into a single unit called the Powertrain Control Module.

Electronic/engine Control Module (ECM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Transmission Control Module (TCM)


I swear you guys do this to me on purpose everyday, keep me in a state of confusion.
 
I swear you guys do this to me on purpose everyday, keep me in a state of confusion.

I've seen it on several parts websites referred to as ECM, even SIA calls it the ECM. But the Ford dealer refers to it as PCM and so does the owners manual. Either way SIA does quality work, very fast, and affordably. Would recommend, especially for 03s and 04s to try the PCM before dropping 2k+ on rebuilding the trans.
 
At least, you could argue that PCM and ECM are both correct terms for it, unlike shocks and struts or COPs and coil packs.
 
Ummmm...... You need to reread jrands posts!!! You OBVIOUSLY aren't doing things correctly if everything works fine. :eek:

Dagnabbit, I guess I'm still driving a car with a messed up transmission then. The lack of jerk on shifting MUST be a failing torque converter then, so I'd better go disconnect the battery overnight and then follow a specific drivetime reset procedure (or whatever he calls it) because we all know that's the ONLY way hard part failures can be fixed.

Incidentally, if that, fellow, does respond I'll need someone to quote him because all I see when he posts is "blocked." I have to deal with enough drivel on the job, I prefer to not see it when not at work.
 
Dagnabbit, I guess I'm still driving a car with a messed up transmission then. The lack of jerk on shifting MUST be a failing torque converter then, so I'd better go disconnect the battery overnight and then follow a specific drivetime reset procedure (or whatever he calls it) because we all know that's the ONLY way hard part failures can be fixed.

Incidentally, if that, fellow, does respond I'll need someone to quote him because all I see when he posts is "blocked." I have to deal with enough drivel on the job, I prefer to not see it when not at work.

Yea.... Me too.....
 
I'll probably send mine off for repair soon - I'll open it back up to compare to the picture I took before anything is done. I wonder if they just put it in a solder reflow oven...
 
Not for simply changing out a few components, they'd rather most likely remove involved parts by means of desoldering wick or braid,

touch_up.jpg


possibly even a desolder pump, some people call them solder suckers.

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Once an SMT board has been cured, you should not attempt to run it through an oven again to simply remove one or two components,
You'd have to shut the cooling fans off on the last stage and you'd still end up with all components needing to be scraped off and start over,
doesn't make sense, it's not what SMT reflow ovens are used for. So much cold solder joints on the parts you didn't want off and then how would you get those back on?

Nahh, they'd manually remove a few parts by the means I showed above and then clean up the pads and resolder new components back on.

Running a completed SMT board back through a reflow cure oven is never a good idea.

Boards get send to the rework department for corrections. Scopes get used on some of the finer mill applications, 10mil leads and such.


(used to work at Digital Equipment of Canada on the stage 1 SMT production floor, became the shift Surface Mount equipment and process trainer eventually.)

touch_up.jpg


DSCN1620.JPG
 
We are going to need a trailer load of popcorn for this, I'm on it!
 
It's so relieving and rare that we find a cheap fix that ACTUALLY works for our cars so kudos to whomever (I think Gus) who recommended SIA Electronics for the PCM. IDK how they do it, but honestly my car shifts better and drives better than the day I bought it 4 years ago.


Speaking of troubled PCM's -

My new gig, last week they handed me the keys to a brand new 2015 International Prostar with all the bells and whistles, including the crappy Navistar Maxxforce N13 motor. (traded in the PacLease Pete)

Had 427kms on the dail when i got in it, took it out on its first maiden tour of duty to run out West of Canada and back with it, I got a load of 40,500lbs on, whole thing weighs in at 74k, well within limits, I get to the part along Hwy 17 that follows along Lake Superior, nothing but Fn little hill climbs and run offs, I discover this thing couldn't pull itself out of a bathtub!

Turns out, (as it got worse on the way back) it's got RPM rev limitations in the upper gears, a dead spot on the pedal around 14.5 - 15.5 RPMs

This was causing me some grieve trying to run the hills without creating a traffic jam behind me, hiding behind the pillar post when traffic did get around, nearly parked it uphill twice and said F* it!

On the phone with them ... you guys spec it like this, thinking the fuel savings would be worth it?
Nope, only limitations should be top speed govern at 105kms, should be able to rev up to at least 1.9-2k, tops out at 2250.

Anyhow, struggled with this POS and put just over 5K on it and it's in the dealership shop, it fell on a weekend when I got back to HQ so they had me take it home, dump the trailer and drop it off here locally.

it's been three days now, had them on the phone today, they were able to replicate the problem, it's confirmed, I'm not nuts, it's hesitating, sputtering and rev limitations as I mentioned, they have a Case file open with Navistar, they don't know what it is, they were gonna attempt to reload latest software.


I told them to call Torry and get a
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custom tune for it.

~ they didn't get that joke!


oh and the APU bunk heater blows cool air, does not heat up, (no-idle electric A/C works though),
airlines are getting caught up on the APU battery box, which has a sharp edge on it, cutting into the protective sleeving, airlines and electrical hook up. and the engine brake is set in the parameters to only come on when brake activated, told them to program that to come on on decelerate instead. (programmable option)

Fn POS, build date 1/20/2015 made in MEXICO!

want my Detroits back, no DEF emissions control bull crap! wide open pipes!
 
Not going to lie to you Big, I think I understood maybe 5% of that. Maybe my lack of truck knowledge! haha
 

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