side moulding removal help

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aimone

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so i found a 95 lsc in one of the local yards. saturday i plan on getting the front and rear bumpers and the side molding. so how do i go about getting the molding off without damaging it?


also the interior is complete other then the hvac controls are gone and seats r beat, i would call it "peanut butter" inside other than seats its clean including floor mats if anyone wants anything out of it
 
Bring a razor blade and go back and forth and score the adhesive tape on the top and bottom of moulding, use a wide putty knife to get behind it but DONT bend the trim because its brittle and will crack..there are I believe two or three centering pins on the door trim so try not to break them off..yank the door panels and look inside the door and you'll be able to see where the pins are located.
 
I've pulled a lot of trim off cars over the years, I've always tried to stay away from a blade as much as possible.
Stay clear of the center of the trim so you don't brae the locating pins off.
They make a tool that work great for trim without damaging it.
http://www.steckmfg.com/21542_EZ-Strip-II-Molding-Tool.html

These work perfect in a shop environment but if you are out in a u pull it yard not so much.
If you have a place that sells fiberglass supply's near by they should sell mold release wedges made out of uhmw that work great. Wedge one in the top and one in the bottom at the back of the trim.. Tap with light weight body hammer.
The composite shims they sell at homedepot work too, just buy a bag so you have extras.

image.jpg
 
Some on here have mentioned "high test" fishing line. Get behind it with the line and cut your way to the other end. I never have done this but they talk like it's easy.
 
hmmm.....this is looking to be kinda time consuming. i might do some testing on mine tomorrow or one of the base cars sat. otherwise im thinking some tin snips and cut the sheet metal and deal with seperating at home.
 
Lol don't test it on your own car..you don't want to ruin your paint..that's why I said use a razor blade/xacto knife on the junkyard car..it'll cut through the adhesive tape easily and then use a sharp putty knife and tap it in little by little.
 
yea, def don't test it on your car....I recently got some from a parts 95 LSC, removed real quick with a heat gun. They are attached by 2 heavy duty adhesive strips. Since you won't have electricity, maybe use a propane torch?
 
when I got mine out of the junkyard I used wd40 and a couple of small puddy knifes. it took about 10 minutes a side. just go slow and take your time and soak the crap out of them.
 
That's the main thing no matter how you go about doing it, take your time and don't rush it because it don't take much to destroy one. LSC strips come off easier than base strips. You'll see that when you remove yours. Mine on the 94 broke in a few different places but I also wasn't trying to save them either.
 
Fishing string, like 20-25lb kind.. cut ya about a foot and a half, and tie a stick or a screw driver to each end, like a wire saw
 
This...

image_13527.jpg

Then you want to get one of these...

04-33.jpg

Be sure to only use genuine 3M double sided moulding tape to install.

image_13527.jpg


04-33.jpg
 
Marcus said:
OK I'm having visions of "Ask This Old House" and their "what's this tool?" segment. So WTF is that and where do you get it?
Click to expand...

It's a rubber 'eraser' wheel. You chuck it up on a cordless drill and use it to remove the remnants of the old adhesive.
 
started on the trim today n got the two rear pieces on the body. wd40, a putty knife, and a flat head used as a wedge had no problems. i stopped n will get the others in a day or 2 cause i was getting in a hurry and didnt wanna break em'
 
Those 3m rubber wheels are a life saver. I took off all the old pin stripes on my truck with one of those, works great.
 
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