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I agree you might be surprised how much of a gap is inbetween the jet pump
I am having the guy that fixed the fuel leak take a look at it this morning he said he would cut an access panel for me if that is what I wanted to do. He wants to see if some way he can access it without doing any cutting but said he can make me a panel to access it if that is really needed. I might just get him to cut that access panel and when I get back to NC I can change out that sensor. These guys do body work and frame repair so I would trust them to cut a panel for me. And to have an access panel that gives access to that side would not be such a bad thing anyway if any other of the other parts take a crap it would be good not to have to drop the tank. And they should have made access to this crap to begin with since they put it where they did.
I also called the stealership today about this repair and now I remember why I hate them clowns so much.... They would not even give me a price on changing the sensor. They said they didn't have to either! What a freaking joke that dealership is. I believe I will file a complaint with Ford... I know it won't do much good but figured why not at this point. I have never been able to get any of them people to be even somewhat respectable or reasonable.
They probably lack the knowledge to even know where it is in a Lincoln LS ...lazy ppl in this world
No I am sure they know where it is located. I am in the mindset they won't give me a ballpark figure so they can charge more some how in the end. I never have trusted that place at all...
I feel your pain. If it helps with the decision, I paid $480 plus tax this past summer to have my '02 smoked, the tank dropped, and some leaks at the molded-in bits repaired by my local Ford dealer here in ETN.
Yes that helps quite a bit one ford place wanted $750 in labor! Thanks
Dang! Let me know if you want more details - I still have the service printout. East TN Ford in Crossville is the dealer I used.
Or maybe you could find some circular plastic bung style plugs that press in by hand... that are commonly used in automotive applications. You could even seal them with a little rtv.
Just a quick update the correct part number is 9c052-cc or 1u5a-9c052-cc mechanic said it was an exact match. It is gonna be somewhat hard to find without getting the whole line itself but it can be done. Also the whole tank did not have to be removed to access it. The exhaust had to be removed and the tank with very little gas in it, had to have a few bolts loosened up and it gave enough access to get to the plug and the sensor. Also you may have better luck finding this Part in the UK like I did and it was only $35.61 shipped which beats paying right at $200 for the whole line assembly.
Good to know. Thanks
After replacing that Fuel tank pressure sensor the P0453 code still managed to come back. The mechanic thought my connector and connection was good to the sensor, but he said he would take another look. I have not looked at it with ForScan yet to check the fuel pressure but I will get around to that in the AM. But does anyone have any other ideas for what problems I could be looking for in this case. Would it be a good idea to replace the EVAP canister or whatever it's called that is above the gas tank? Or should I look at replacing the EVAP valve that is under the hood. I also still have a slight misfire that is throwing no code on top of that but it's only at idle. Also is there a chance that the EVAP hose that is above that gas tank is clogged since I had the fuel injector issue before? Also does anyone know of the OEM part number for the harness for the FTP sensor?
Dale, I read back through the topic and didn't see mention - have you had the car "smoked" to check for where you might have an evap leak? A good independent shop should be able to do this for you. It's not terribly expensive, maybe $100 is what I was charged 2-3 years ago. My dealership here in TN included it in their diagnostic fee this last time. Michelle
I don't have the vacuum leak any longer though so is it still possible to have a EVAP leak? I would think I would see a code for that other than the P0453 code which is the only code I currently have since fixing several vacuum leaks. I would buy a cheap fog machine and check it myself before I pay a shop $100 to do that. I also today replaced the MAF sensor with a Motorcraft one. I know this won't resolve my FTP sensor problem but it seems to have helped quite a bit on the misfire that I have. It's not perfect at idle now but I can say at least a 70% improvement on the sputter.
Also this seems to be the OEM connector for the FTP sensor 3U2Z-14S411-KMB - Ford Parts Giant seems to be Ford Part No.: 3U2Z-14S411-KMB I know I am so close to figuring this thing out! I am pretty sure it has to have a bad connector for the FTP sensor at this point. Does anyone know if the harness that plugs into the FTP sensor section has and other connection points on the bottom of the car? What I mean is where does the harness feed to or is it one harness that goes from the front of the car to the rear? I just want to make sure it's not like some of the Mustangs that had corrosion on point that connects to the rear section and not the FTP sensor connector itself.
After replacing the FTP Sensor and the connector I am still getting Code P0453! What else could be causing this ?? I am going crazy trying to find the correct answer! Everything looked good far as the lines go so I am at a loss for figuring the issue out! Should I look at possibly replacing the EVAP Feedback Sensor and them hoses on the back of the firewall? I had read some places online about troubleshooting that code in general not LS specific and some say that could be a cause?
Did you ever do the electrical troubleshooting to confirm the problem?
Or a smoke test?
That is what I had the mechanic do. They said all was good for electrical so that is why I am confused! After clearing the code it comes back within the 2nd or 3rd time of cranking the car. And it will come on after driving a bit if you only crank it once after clearing it. And it still looks like the pressure is 4.2 kPa's on the FTP sensor according to ForScan. The only reason I replaced the harness this time around is cause I already had it and the tank was dropped again to replace that one Fuel hose that had cracked. Not sure what that would accomplish I have a code for Evap Emissions Pressure Sensor High Input. I don't have a vacuum leak.
This may be a dumb question but does the Fuel sensor that goes near the rail have anything to do with the rear FTP sensor? Like if the sensor on the front is bad could it cause my issue ? The reason I ask is because I had one idiot mechanic break my Fuel sensor that goes on the rail and he got a used one from the junk yard. I was obviously not so happy about that but it is what it is at this point. Also what other EVAP sensors are there in this car? I had typed in EVAP sensor on fordpartsgiant and it took me to the EGR feedback sensor is that correct?
I don't see how it could.
Do you have any other ideas then? I am really at a loss for ideas now. What about the jet pump/sending unit on the drivers side could cause this ? Because I have noticed a big delay on mileage. After filing up it says 280 to empty even after leaving the car off for 10 mins after getting the gas. Sometimes it takes up to 20-30 mins of driving for the needle and the distance to empty go to the 350 mile to empty range. I had read on some troubleshooting sites that a fuel sending unit could cause this issue as well and I wanted to know if that's true or a waste of time.
Usually a high input in my experience is the equivalent of an open circuit. The sensor line floats to the sensing line output level (the voltage being sent to a sensor to get a reading from the sensor, but the connection is not completed either by being unplugged or a failed sensor) and is declared high.
What about the EVAP canister in the rear of the car does it have a sensor that could cause this issue? Cause I have replaced both the sensor and the harness and connector and that did not help.
I'm just sharing my interpretation of what a sensor reading of high has meant to me over the years. I really don't know what they have in the LS for hardware for EVAP handling. IN general, you have periodic tests that run which confirm the system's ability to confine and recycle vapors from gasoline. One of the tests I know of in other vehicles but probably occurs in almost all vehicles, is that in order to deem the evap system as 'good', you have to wait until fuel is in a certain range, as in half a tank or less, and the system closes the evap vent valve, pressurizes the tank, measures that pressure, ensures that it holds, then releases the pressure and ensures that it drops pressure as commanded. That tests the function of the purge system. This is where you can have a bad fuel tank fill line, bad gas cap, a pinhole leak anywhere in the tank's containment environment, etc. A few things need to be present to set this test up and execute. This is just an example, but all traditionally powered cars need to do this somehow. I typed this up and looked up the p0453 code and it basically says the same things. It may be that time to start ohming out the lines and the sensor itself. Checking the actual reading will help you decide which direction to head in. For example, if the value reading is 5 volts or close to it, you're probably looking at a bad signal wire or ground wire in this area. P0453 DTC Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input