Prioritizing repairs and looking for knowledge

[usualsuspect]

I have owned a 1998 mark lsc for five years. It has 136000 miles on it. Over the course of the five years i have replaced/repaired:
Pass side mirror, plugs & coils (motorcraft), tensioner pulley, and the ballast on the trunk light. I zip tied the blend door actuator three years ago and have not had any issues lol. Used tail lights. New windshield. New fuel filter. New tires.

I cut the mufflers off and str8 piped it to the tips. I live in montana and we dont beleive in emissions. It made a huge difference. I have plans to get rid of the catylitic converter too.

Im open to opinions and advice on anything. I consider myself mechanically able, but by no means am i a mechanic.

I purchased workshop manuals 1&2. I love these cars and have since i was young. No plans on selling it. I take care of what i have until it financially makes no more sense. Which this car has paid for itself quick. Got it for 800$
I drive it moderate - rarely. Partially because i dont want something to happen until ive completely addressed issues.

As i have found out parts are not there. I am in the process of buying a parts car to battle that.

Need a new front seat. Sunroof needs adjusting.

While doing the plugs i noticed a little oil on the plug. Cleaned out the cavity and and drove for a day and there was a little in there. How crucial is it to adress this?

One day i noticed i was low on tranny fluid. And there was a puddle in the garage. Filled with a little lucas stop leak and a quart of fluid. Has held since. When i bought the car i noticed a slight slip. After that low level incident and refilling it it has been ok.
Should i drop the pan and do the filter change? Or just the fluid? Multiple opinions exist on this. I know i have 3 suburbans in my lifetime. 2 of them i junked because i did the filter and fluid and the tranny died a few months down the road. The other one it slipped the fix and is still strong.
The previous owner said the mark never had the tranny serviced filter wise but wasnt sure. My old man said to change the fluid. Leave the filter. Im sure the manual will say to change the filter.
I would appreciate opinions. I am trying to avoid a potential detrimental mistake.
Transmission rebuilds are not in my league.

Last weekend i lost oil. Looks like its the oil filter adapter gasket. I tightened a bolt juuuuust slightly and it stopped.sunday i started and drove it and it started again.
I also have had the battery light flicker on and off accompanied with some odd electrical issues in this car-owner love affair. I should probably replace the ground cable when i adress this because its near all the oil build up. Just my guessing. Ill post some pics of what i have in my phone . Thanks everyone and i look forward to your knowledge making me smarter!

 

[slowmkviii]

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

 

[NoLimit95]

The previous owner said the mark never had the tranny serviced filter wise but wasnt sure. My old man said to change the fluid. Leave the filter. Im sure the manual will say to change the filter.
I would appreciate opinions. I am trying to avoid a potential detrimental mistake.
Transmission rebuilds are not in my league.

If it were mine, I would at least drop the pan and drain the roundabout 5 quarts that it holds. You can look on Rock-Auto, and they have a 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Mercon V for right at $22.00 + shipping. I just bought 2 of them + 3 quarts when I rebuilt mine last week. If you do this, you will simply be refreshing the fluid and not going in with all new. The filter also should be changed, but that's just me. If it collects too much, it can cause slipping.

Last weekend i lost oil. Looks like its the oil filter adapter gasket. I tightened a bolt juuuuust slightly and it stopped.sunday i started and drove it and it started again.

When it comes to the oil filter adapter gasket, you want the one with the orange seals. I was able to change mine by removing the front wheel and feeling my way in there lol. It sucks, but it can be done. Just look up the gaskets, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I also have had the battery light flicker on and off accompanied with some odd electrical issues in this car-owner love affair. I should probably replace the ground cable when i adress this because its near all the oil build up.

This could be a number of things. I would check the pigtail at the alternator; check the wires at the starter to make sure they are tight. It cost nothing to do this. If it continues, you may have a diode going bad in the alternator. You might see the flickering when the alternator is hot. Put a voltmeter on it and test to see if you have at least 13.7 steady voltage. It will likely fluctuate from 13.7 to 13.9, which is fine. If it is steady at 14.1 to 14.3, that's fine also. You just don't want to see large fluctuation gaps. The Gen 2 alternators are 130 amp, Gen 1 is 120 amp

While doing the plugs i noticed a little oil on the plug. Cleaned out the cavity and and drove for a day and there was a little in there. How crucial is it to adress this?

With my experience with these cars, I have always found oil leaks at the driver's side valve cover gasket close to the firewall. They have seals for the plug holes, and they can go bad and leak into the plug hole. Those seals come with the new gaskets. It is time consuming and annoying to get them off, but that should fix the oil on the plug(s) problem you have.

When i bought the car i noticed a slight slip. After that low level incident and refilling it it has been ok.
Should i drop the pan and do the filter change?

Also, if you do remove the pan and you have the tools needed, 8mm, 10mm sockets, a drill with the small bits, order the valve body gaskets, and J-Mod the separator plate. I think they even sell the plate drilled already. You will find the J-Mod write up in the sticky section. It's not very hard to do. It will help give the trans more fluid flow, better shifts, 1-2 & 3-4 and engage reverse quicker. Order new check balls also if you plan to remove it. There are 8 of them inside the valve body. There are images that show exactly where they go.

No plans on selling it. I take care of what i have until it financially makes no more sense. Which this car has paid for itself quick. Got it for 800$

I think the same way. I bought my 95 for $2000 in Jan 2010 and haven't had one car payment since, and also very cheap insurance. Spending $500+ each month just on a car payment, then the cost of full coverage insurance doesn't sit well with me.
I'm assuming you don't have air ride. I see no mention of it, that's usually what people will complain about. Anyway, this is about all I can help with at this distance.

 

[NoLimit95]

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

Haven't seen you in a while. I have been looking at your progress. That car is very nice, but it always has been. Nicer now though lol

 

[slowmkviii]

Haven't seen you in a while. I have been looking at your progress. That car is very nice, but it always has been. Nicer now though lol

Thank you!

 

[usualsuspect]

If it were mine, I would at least drop the pan and drain the roundabout 5 quarts that it holds. You can look on Rock-Auto, and they have a 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Mercon V for right at $22.00 + shipping. I just bought 2 of them + 3 quarts when I rebuilt mine last week. If you do this, you will simply be refreshing the fluid and not going in with all new. The filter also should be changed, but that's just me. If it collects too much, it can cause slipping.



When it comes to the oil filter adapter gasket, you want the one with the orange seals. I was able to change mine by removing the front wheel and feeling my way in there lol. It sucks, but it can be done. Just look up the gaskets, and you'll see what I'm talking about.


This could be a number of things. I would check the pigtail at the alternator; check the wires at the starter to make sure they are tight. It cost nothing to do this. If it continues, you may have a diode going bad in the alternator. You might see the flickering when the alternator is hot. Put a voltmeter on it and test to see if you have at least 13.7 steady voltage. It will likely fluctuate from 13.7 to 13.9, which is fine. If it is steady at 14.1 to 14.3, that's fine also. You just don't want to see large fluctuation gaps. The Gen 2 alternators are 130 amp, Gen 1 is 120 amp


With my experience with these cars, I have always found oil leaks at the driver's side valve cover gasket. They have seals for the plug holes, and they can go bad and leak into the plug hole. Those seals come with the new gaskets. It is time consuming and annoying to get them off, but that should fix the oil on the plug(s) problem you have.



Also, if you do remove the pan and you have the tools needed, 8mm, 10mm sockets, a drill with the small bits, order the valve body gaskets, and J-Mod the separator plate. I think they even sell the plate drilled already. You will find the J-Mod write up in the sticky section. It's not very hard to do. It will help give the trans more fluid flow, better shifts, 1-2 & 3-4 and engage reverse quicker. Order new check balls also if you plan to remove it. There are 8 of them inside the valve body. There are images that show exactly where they go.



I think the same way. I bought my 95 for $2000 in Jan 2010 and haven't had one car payment since, and also very cheap insurance. Spending $500+ each month just on a car payment, then the cost of full coverage insurance doesn't sit well with me. I have dropped the transmission twice, but the first time really wasn't needed in the end. Last week WAS needed to rebuild it. I had burnt forward clutches, brittle lip seals inside. I only had reverse, but now I have all gears working as they should. I was very lucky and found LSC bumper covers that matched my (WK) color code and only needed to be cleaned up for $180 from LKQ up the road from me. Side moldings were free

I'm assuming you don't have air ride. I see no mention of it, that's usually what people will complain about. I'm still on air, but before Motorcraft Gen 2 air shocks were sold out, I bought two and also bought new Westar rear bags about 3 or 4 years ago, and a rebuilt air pump.

Anyway, this is about all I can help with at this distance. I'm in Alabama and this is my second Gen 1. I really don't know a lot about Gen 2's but most of it is basically the same mechanical wise

Mine does have air ride! And it works fine which is pretty nice
I have the mercon and the gasket and the time tomorrow to do it. I am going to drop the pan and do the filter also.
The alternator tests fine. The battery that the local autozone sold me said it was the right fit. It has top terminals and it was touching the hood just barely. I put a foam pad thing under the hood and it seemed to help.ive cleaned the ground by the driversnside

 

[driller]

Prioritizing:

1. Oil filter adaptive gasket
2. Transmission fluid/filter and J-mod with transmission cooler added
3. NEW alternator - not remanufactured
4. Valve cover gasket kit

 

[usualsuspect]

Prioritizing:

1. Oil filter adaptive gasket
2. Transmission fluid/filter and J-mod with transmission cooler added
3. NEW alternator - not remanufactured
4. Valve cover gasket kit

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

 

[usualsuspect]

The oil adapter gasket just came in today while at work. So that is going to be done friday when i get home. This weekend

Haven't seen you in a while. I have been looking at your progress. That car is very nice, but it always has been. Nicer now though lol

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

 

[usualsuspect]

....Ok this weekend i replaced the tranny fluid and the filter. It was so easy.

I am just getting back onto the thread im sorry everyone! A lot of things happened in life and i have been really busy.

I wish i wouldve checked on here and looked at the replies, but i was very worried about losing the transmission. Shes now my daily driver because my transmission went out on my suburban. When it rains it pours!
I performed the tranny fluid and filter change and drove it and filled and got it to the right level. This morning i let it warm up and drove to work. It still has a slip but it seems to get better and the warmer the car gets. It was 2 degrees this am. Am i asking for it driving it right now? I dont really have much of a choice im putting in as much overtime as i can get to fix my trucks transmission so i can put the mark back in its garage. But i need it to get to work probably till the end of january. I should have my truck squared away by then. The trucks transmission was rebuilt two years ago, but the shop owner after some polite words agreed to meet me half way and pickup the parts and me.the labor. For that i am blessed.

What is a becontrols valve body recalibration kit? I am not opposed to dropping the pan again to do something i should have when i was in there the first time. Live and learn. I saw a thread about drilling a jmod at the tranny, but i will tell you right now transmissions scare me. They have been the death of every vehicle i have ever owned. Literally. I do buy used and i have my reasons, but it has made me very hesitant to do ANYTHING but a filter and fluid change. And even they nerve rack me

Oil adapter gasket i will tackle this weekend. I have a few motorcraft filters stocked up and good oil. Should i wait and order valve cover gaskets and do them at the same time as the oil adapter gasket? Or can i do the valve cover gaskets without draining the oil ? Are the valve cover gaskets a part of the reason with oil in the spark plugs ? Or do i need to get seperate gaskets for that

What kind of diagnosing would you recommend with the battery? It hasnt given me any fits lately since i put that padding on the inside of the hood. Except when i washed it a while ago it.acted goofy.

 

[usualsuspect]

If it were mine, I would at least drop the pan and drain the roundabout 5 quarts that it holds. You can look on Rock-Auto, and they have a 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Mercon V for right at $22.00 + shipping. I just bought 2 of them + 3 quarts when I rebuilt mine last week. If you do this, you will simply be refreshing the fluid and not going in with all new. The filter also should be changed, but that's just me. If it collects too much, it can cause slipping.



When it comes to the oil filter adapter gasket, you want the one with the orange seals. I was able to change mine by removing the front wheel and feeling my way in there lol. It sucks, but it can be done. Just look up the gaskets, and you'll see what I'm talking about.


This could be a number of things. I would check the pigtail at the alternator; check the wires at the starter to make sure they are tight. It cost nothing to do this. If it continues, you may have a diode going bad in the alternator. You might see the flickering when the alternator is hot. Put a voltmeter on it and test to see if you have at least 13.7 steady voltage. It will likely fluctuate from 13.7 to 13.9, which is fine. If it is steady at 14.1 to 14.3, that's fine also. You just don't want to see large fluctuation gaps. The Gen 2 alternators are 130 amp, Gen 1 is 120 amp


With my experience with these cars, I have always found oil leaks at the driver's side valve cover gasket close to the firewall. They have seals for the plug holes, and they can go bad and leak into the plug hole. Those seals come with the new gaskets. It is time consuming and annoying to get them off, but that should fix the oil on the plug(s) problem you have.



Also, if you do remove the pan and you have the tools needed, 8mm, 10mm sockets, a drill with the small bits, order the valve body gaskets, and J-Mod the separator plate. I think they even sell the plate drilled already. You will find the J-Mod write up in the sticky section. It's not very hard to do. It will help give the trans more fluid flow, better shifts, 1-2 & 3-4 and engage reverse quicker. Order new check balls also if you plan to remove it. There are 8 of them inside the valve body. There are images that show exactly where they go.



I think the same way. I bought my 95 for $2000 in Jan 2010 and haven't had one car payment since, and also very cheap insurance. Spending $500+ each month just on a car payment, then the cost of full coverage insurance doesn't sit well with me.
I'm assuming you don't have air ride. I see no mention of it, that's usually what people will complain about. Anyway, this is about all I can help with at this distance.

The air ride works! I got the oil adapter seals you recommended and am on it this weekend. Do you think the slip is a for sure sign of doomsday? Or if it were you, would you redo it with the suggested things. Do you think it.wluld solve the issue? I dont want to throw money at it if im going to end up having to rebuild it anyways ya know

 

[usualsuspect]

....Ok this weekend i replaced the tranny fluid and the filter. It was so easy.

I am just getting back onto the thread im sorry everyone! A lot of things happened in life and i have been really busy.

I wish i wouldve checked on here and looked at the replies, but i was very worried about losing the transmission. Shes now my daily driver because my transmission went out on my suburban. When it rains it pours!
I performed the tranny fluid and filter change and drove it and filled and got it to the right level. This morning i let it warm up and drove to work. It still has a slip but it seems to get better and the warmer the car gets. It was 2 degrees this am. Am i asking for it driving it right now? I dont really have much of a choice im putting in as much overtime as i can get to fix my trucks transmission so i can put the mark back in its garage. But i need it to get to work probably till the end of january. I should have my truck squared away by then. The trucks transmission was rebuilt two years ago, but the shop owner after some polite words agreed to meet me half way and pickup the parts and me.the labor. For that i am blessed.

What is a becontrols valve body recalibration kit? I am not opposed to dropping the pan again to do something i should have when i was in there the first time. Live and learn. I saw a thread about drilling a jmod at the tranny, but i will tell you right now transmissions scare me. They have been the death of every vehicle i have ever owned. Literally. I do buy used and i have my reasons, but it has made me very hesitant to do ANYTHING but a filter and fluid change. And even they nerve rack me

Oil adapter gasket i will tackle this weekend. I have a few motorcraft filters stocked up and good oil. Should i wait and order valve cover gaskets and do them at the same time as the oil adapter gasket? Or can i do the valve cover gaskets without draining the oil ? Are the valve cover gaskets a part of the reason with oil in the spark plugs ? Or do i need to get seperate gaskets for that

What kind of diagnosing would you recommend with the battery? It hasnt given me any fits lately since i put that padding on the inside of the hood. Except when i washed it a while ago it.acted goofy.

Prioritizing:

1. Oil filter adaptive gasket
2. Transmission fluid/filter and J-mod with transmission cooler added
3. NEW alternator - not remanufactured
4. Valve cover gasket kit

Im going to check the starter wires this weekend, but does it matter what brand of alternator? Would i see any advantages to a higher amperage unit? Im not putting speakers in it or anything, im just curious

 

[NoLimit95]

It would be hard for me to say if your slip is "doomsday", but for me, it was. I went from a little slip, to no forward at all.
Your problem could be something completely different from what my problem was. Also, don't let the J-Mod of the valve
body separator plate scare you. It's really not as complicated as it seems.

The BE Controls

that slowmkviii recommended to you would be an upgrade you should consider while the valve body is out. As for "asking
for it" by driving it right after the fluid and filter change.... You have to drive it sooner or later. Sitting there isn't going to
change anything. If it gets worse, I would suspect the forward clutches are worn out as mine were. In the forward drum,
you have a "piston" in there with an inner and outer lip seal. If it is starting to deteriorate and small chunks start
coming off little by little, you will eventually not be moving forward anymore. You have a 98, and mine is 95, but we have
the same lip seals inside the trans. The BE Controls kit you would need is: RK-AODE-2 for 96-2000 4R70W $114.95 if you
decide to swap them. I didn't do mine, but if I drop my valve body again, I will most likely order the kit.

The oil filter adapter gasket Located Here isn't the easiest job and can be done in different ways. I reached through from
the drivers side wheel well (jacked up & tire off) removed, wiped clean with microfiber rag, then replaced. That was 2
years ago, and it hasn't leaked since then. I had to get a look at it, then reach without seeing most of what I was doing lol.
Took about 45-50 minutes.

The 130 amp alternator you have is fine, and unless you have a large system in the car, I don't really see any benefit with
higher amperage. As for the brand, they are hit and miss. I have used remans from O'Reilly, and they were never good.
Auto-Zone can last you 2 weeks, or over 2 years. The only good thing about those is that if it does go bad, take it back for
a free replacement. It swaps out easy enough, and Auto-Zone is everywhere. If you have the money to invest in a new
alternator, you can get Motorcraft, or DB Electrical. One of the things with any Mark VIII is that it is a very power hungry
car with the air ride. If no air bags are leaking, and your vent solenoid in the air pump is working as it should, the pump
shouldn't run long. I personally don't keep my air ride on all the time. I'll run it on a quick drive somewhere, after getting
home, I get out and shut the door, let it vent down, then turn the switch off for a week, maybe 2-3 more weeks. Cold weather
does help bring the car down quicker in most cases.

When you finally have another vehicle that you can depend on for a while and a place to do it, I would seriously consider
pulling the trans, buy a rebuild kit with clutches, seals, gaskets. Those are in the $150 range. 4R70W rebuild kit this kit
will have what you most likely will "eventually" need. If you have the money, I would go with the Raysbestos kit. It has
the O/D band, Reverse band, all clutches, gaskets and o-rings but will cost more. Raysbestos 4R70W Rebuild Kit If you
search hard enough, you can possibly find it cheaper.

I got my Mercon V in 5 quart jugs from RockAuto Mercon V Fluid $23 + shipping which is the cheapest (Motorcraft) you
will find. The EPC solenoid would be another part I would swap out. They range from $40 to $65 and requires a 13/16
wrench to remove. The 98 also has the "hard wire" to the solenoids which pops off the solenoid connections. Use a small
flat head screwdriver to remove and do it carefully. When the pan is removed, you'll see it right in front of you. Those are
normally $25 - $35 for new. F8AZ7G276BA Part# F8AZ7G276BA but not needed if you take your time when removing.

If you ever decide to drop the transmission and rebuild it, I can send you a link to a video(s). If you follow his steps, you
can't go wrong. He makes it very simple, and it is detailed. Every step!

You also asked about the valve cover gaskets. May as well do both. They come with everything you will need to stop oil
from entering the plug holes. Valve Cover Gaskets

 

[usualsuspect]

I sure appreciate the time and links you put into tour response and i sure do appreciate it.
I have never dropped a valve body or a transmission in my life, and it makes me nervous. Do you think a normal transmission shop would be able or willing to install this kit for me? Or would they most.likely shy away and be willing to only rebuild or put a reman in?

I looked at that raybestos kit, and its not as intimidating parts wise as when i have looked up 4l60 kits for my truck. Maybe i will go for it.

If it was a car that was not as unique as the mark viii and worth 500 bux i would do it. All of my mechanical knowledge has been gained by just that, but with suburbans. I had a 1991 for 17 years and did everything you could imagine to that thing. Except the transmission when it started slipping.

 

[usualsuspect]

The epc solenoid i will make sure to do when i take the pan off again, or rebuild the transmission. My trucks going into a shop this.coming week and the mark will go back to her garage asap.

I drove it alot tonight after work and it honestly doesnt feel like a slip. And if you drive like a grandma it doesnt do it, especially after its warmed up. I did punch it and got into the 6000 range and it shifted fine, but the one thing i did notice is as i approached those high rpms is the battery light flickered. I tested the alternator at idle and it sits pretty at 13.94 with no fluctuations. If the voltage regulator goes inside the alternator would i only notice anything on a voltmeter if i revved the engine?

 

[usualsuspect]

What im taking from this tho is that i should be prepared and do my research and ask those who know and plan before my attack. Which is where im greatly appreciative of your willingness to help me. The cost of the parts is not anything like i.was expecting. I spent more than that for a damn ebay passenger side mirror. When things settle back down and i start the project i will post pictures, ask questions, and take my time. I wish i wouldve read through these threads before i jumped the gun and dropped the pan because i wouldve wouldve done that EPC solenoid. Not that i even know what that is, but now i know how to change it out.!

The adapter gaskets in , but should i order the valve cover gaskets now and just wait and do the adapter gasket and valve cover gaskets all at once? Thanks