Prioritizing repairs and looking for knowledge

[usualsuspect]

I have owned a 1998 mark lsc for five years. It has 136000 miles on it. Over the course of the five years i have replaced/repaired:
Pass side mirror, plugs & coils (motorcraft), tensioner pulley, and the ballast on the trunk light. I zip tied the blend door actuator three years ago and have not had any issues lol. Used tail lights. New windshield. New fuel filter. New tires.

I cut the mufflers off and str8 piped it to the tips. I live in montana and we dont beleive in emissions. It made a huge difference. I have plans to get rid of the catylitic converter too.

Im open to opinions and advice on anything. I consider myself mechanically able, but by no means am i a mechanic.

I purchased workshop manuals 1&2. I love these cars and have since i was young. No plans on selling it. I take care of what i have until it financially makes no more sense. Which this car has paid for itself quick. Got it for 800$
I drive it moderate - rarely. Partially because i dont want something to happen until ive completely addressed issues.

As i have found out parts are not there. I am in the process of buying a parts car to battle that.

Need a new front seat. Sunroof needs adjusting.

While doing the plugs i noticed a little oil on the plug. Cleaned out the cavity and and drove for a day and there was a little in there. How crucial is it to adress this?

One day i noticed i was low on tranny fluid. And there was a puddle in the garage. Filled with a little lucas stop leak and a quart of fluid. Has held since. When i bought the car i noticed a slight slip. After that low level incident and refilling it it has been ok.
Should i drop the pan and do the filter change? Or just the fluid? Multiple opinions exist on this. I know i have 3 suburbans in my lifetime. 2 of them i junked because i did the filter and fluid and the tranny died a few months down the road. The other one it slipped the fix and is still strong.
The previous owner said the mark never had the tranny serviced filter wise but wasnt sure. My old man said to change the fluid. Leave the filter. Im sure the manual will say to change the filter.
I would appreciate opinions. I am trying to avoid a potential detrimental mistake.
Transmission rebuilds are not in my league.

Last weekend i lost oil. Looks like its the oil filter adapter gasket. I tightened a bolt juuuuust slightly and it stopped.sunday i started and drove it and it started again.
I also have had the battery light flicker on and off accompanied with some odd electrical issues in this car-owner love affair. I should probably replace the ground cable when i adress this because its near all the oil build up. Just my guessing. Ill post some pics of what i have in my phone . Thanks everyone and i look forward to your knowledge making me smarter!

 

[slowmkviii]

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

 

[NoLimit95]

The previous owner said the mark never had the tranny serviced filter wise but wasnt sure. My old man said to change the fluid. Leave the filter. Im sure the manual will say to change the filter.
I would appreciate opinions. I am trying to avoid a potential detrimental mistake.
Transmission rebuilds are not in my league.

If it were mine, I would at least drop the pan and drain the roundabout 5 quarts that it holds. You can look on Rock-Auto, and they have a 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Mercon V for right at $22.00 + shipping. I just bought 2 of them + 3 quarts when I rebuilt mine last week. If you do this, you will simply be refreshing the fluid and not going in with all new. The filter also should be changed, but that's just me. If it collects too much, it can cause slipping.

Last weekend i lost oil. Looks like its the oil filter adapter gasket. I tightened a bolt juuuuust slightly and it stopped.sunday i started and drove it and it started again.

When it comes to the oil filter adapter gasket, you want the one with the orange seals. I was able to change mine by removing the front wheel and feeling my way in there lol. It sucks, but it can be done. Just look up the gaskets, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I also have had the battery light flicker on and off accompanied with some odd electrical issues in this car-owner love affair. I should probably replace the ground cable when i adress this because its near all the oil build up.

This could be a number of things. I would check the pigtail at the alternator; check the wires at the starter to make sure they are tight. It cost nothing to do this. If it continues, you may have a diode going bad in the alternator. You might see the flickering when the alternator is hot. Put a voltmeter on it and test to see if you have at least 13.7 steady voltage. It will likely fluctuate from 13.7 to 13.9, which is fine. If it is steady at 14.1 to 14.3, that's fine also. You just don't want to see large fluctuation gaps. The Gen 2 alternators are 130 amp, Gen 1 is 120 amp

While doing the plugs i noticed a little oil on the plug. Cleaned out the cavity and and drove for a day and there was a little in there. How crucial is it to adress this?

With my experience with these cars, I have always found oil leaks at the driver's side valve cover gasket. They have seals for the plug holes, and they can go bad and leak into the plug hole. Those seals come with the new gaskets. It is time consuming and annoying to get them off, but that should fix the oil on the plug(s) problem you have.

When i bought the car i noticed a slight slip. After that low level incident and refilling it it has been ok.
Should i drop the pan and do the filter change?

Also, if you do remove the pan and you have the tools needed, 8mm, 10mm sockets, a drill with the small bits, order the valve body gaskets, and J-Mod the separator plate. I think they even sell the plate drilled already. You will find the J-Mod write up in the sticky section. It's not very hard to do. It will help give the trans more fluid flow, better shifts, 1-2 & 3-4 and engage reverse quicker. Order new check balls also if you plan to remove it. There are 8 of them inside the valve body. There are images that show exactly where they go.

No plans on selling it. I take care of what i have until it financially makes no more sense. Which this car has paid for itself quick. Got it for 800$

I think the same way. I bought my 95 for $2000 in Jan 2010 and haven't had one car payment since, and also very cheap insurance. Spending $500+ each month just on a car payment, then the cost of full coverage insurance doesn't sit well with me. I have dropped the transmission twice, but the first time really wasn't needed in the end. Last week WAS needed to rebuild it. I had burnt forward clutches, brittle lip seals inside. I only had reverse, but now I have all gears working as they should. I was very lucky and found LSC bumper covers that matched my (WK) color code and only needed to be cleaned up for $180 from LKQ up the road from me. Side moldings were free

I'm assuming you don't have air ride. I see no mention of it, that's usually what people will complain about. I'm still on air, but before Motorcraft Gen 2 air shocks were sold out, I bought two and also bought new Westar rear bags about 3 or 4 years ago, and a rebuilt air pump.

Anyway, this is about all I can help with at this distance. I'm in Alabama and this is my second Gen 1. I really don't know a lot about Gen 2's but most of it is basically the same mechanical wise

 

[NoLimit95]

If it was mine
Ofa gasket ASAP
If the curent tranny fluid doesn't seem to burnt id do a fluid change and filter not a flush and a becontrols valve body recalibration kit.
You need valve cover gaskets sooner than later so it wont cause a miss.
As for the battery you need to diagnose more.

Haven't seen you in a while. I have been looking at your progress. That car is very nice, but it always has been. Nicer now though lol

 

[slowmkviii]

Haven't seen you in a while. I have been looking at your progress. That car is very nice, but it always has been. Nicer now though lol

Thank you!

 

[usualsuspect]

If it were mine, I would at least drop the pan and drain the roundabout 5 quarts that it holds. You can look on Rock-Auto, and they have a 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Mercon V for right at $22.00 + shipping. I just bought 2 of them + 3 quarts when I rebuilt mine last week. If you do this, you will simply be refreshing the fluid and not going in with all new. The filter also should be changed, but that's just me. If it collects too much, it can cause slipping.



When it comes to the oil filter adapter gasket, you want the one with the orange seals. I was able to change mine by removing the front wheel and feeling my way in there lol. It sucks, but it can be done. Just look up the gaskets, and you'll see what I'm talking about.


This could be a number of things. I would check the pigtail at the alternator; check the wires at the starter to make sure they are tight. It cost nothing to do this. If it continues, you may have a diode going bad in the alternator. You might see the flickering when the alternator is hot. Put a voltmeter on it and test to see if you have at least 13.7 steady voltage. It will likely fluctuate from 13.7 to 13.9, which is fine. If it is steady at 14.1 to 14.3, that's fine also. You just don't want to see large fluctuation gaps. The Gen 2 alternators are 130 amp, Gen 1 is 120 amp


With my experience with these cars, I have always found oil leaks at the driver's side valve cover gasket. They have seals for the plug holes, and they can go bad and leak into the plug hole. Those seals come with the new gaskets. It is time consuming and annoying to get them off, but that should fix the oil on the plug(s) problem you have.



Also, if you do remove the pan and you have the tools needed, 8mm, 10mm sockets, a drill with the small bits, order the valve body gaskets, and J-Mod the separator plate. I think they even sell the plate drilled already. You will find the J-Mod write up in the sticky section. It's not very hard to do. It will help give the trans more fluid flow, better shifts, 1-2 & 3-4 and engage reverse quicker. Order new check balls also if you plan to remove it. There are 8 of them inside the valve body. There are images that show exactly where they go.



I think the same way. I bought my 95 for $2000 in Jan 2010 and haven't had one car payment since, and also very cheap insurance. Spending $500+ each month just on a car payment, then the cost of full coverage insurance doesn't sit well with me. I have dropped the transmission twice, but the first time really wasn't needed in the end. Last week WAS needed to rebuild it. I had burnt forward clutches, brittle lip seals inside. I only had reverse, but now I have all gears working as they should. I was very lucky and found LSC bumper covers that matched my (WK) color code and only needed to be cleaned up for $180 from LKQ up the road from me. Side moldings were free

I'm assuming you don't have air ride. I see no mention of it, that's usually what people will complain about. I'm still on air, but before Motorcraft Gen 2 air shocks were sold out, I bought two and also bought new Westar rear bags about 3 or 4 years ago, and a rebuilt air pump.

Anyway, this is about all I can help with at this distance. I'm in Alabama and this is my second Gen 1. I really don't know a lot about Gen 2's but most of it is basically the same mechanical wise

Mine does have air ride! And it works fine which is pretty nice
I have the mercon and the gasket and the time tomorrow to do it. I am going to drop the pan and do the filter also.
The alternator tests fine. The battery that the local autozone sold me said it was the right fit. It has top terminals and it was touching the hood just barely. I put a foam pad thing under the hood and it seemed to help.ive cleaned the ground by the driversnside