P0402 EGR flow EXC DET

LaserSVT

LaserSVT

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So does that code meen I need to replace the EGR on the rear of the plenum?
 
PITA to replace, also involves the DPFE sensor-the code is too much EGR flow, so it is probably stuck open-I just did a friends' 94 EGR and DPFE, kind of like doing the IAC on a Gen 1 (PITA) remove the wiper cowl makes it somewhat easier.
 
I done my DPFE and it was a PITA, especially when it made no change. As for the EGR valve itself, I could see the bolts to mine when I had the transmission out and I should have changed that too since it would have been easy or easier. I was going to remove my cowl but just under the edge of it is metal. It would not have allowed me any extra arm room. I wouldn't even want to imagine changing out the EGR valve from the top. I would rather do 3 IAC's on a Gen 1 than to do that.

Gen 2 may be different, idk. It's possible they thought about how stupid they were when they had the Gen 1 IAC and TPS up against the firewall and maybe also moved the EGR to a better location. Never seen one on a Gen 2 before.
 
I must be much dumber then I had thought.

I thought the part circled in red was the EGR valve. :(
IMGP0481.jpg
 
I'm not going to speculate that that's it. It does look like it and like I said, it's possible they moved it to a better location than the Gen 1

If so, you're lucky that it's that easy to get to because the Gen 1 is pure stupidity where it's located.
 
LaserSVT said:
I must be much dumber then I had thought.

I thought the part circled in red was the EGR valve. :(
IMGP0481.jpg
Click to expand...

It is...the dpfe is somewhere close to it, little grey or black box with 2 hoses and 1 electrical connector. It's held on by 2 bolts.
 
So we are thinking this code could be both things? What is the more likely part? I would prefer to buy one part and see if it does it rather then use the shotgun method and replace a group of parts.
Now I am gonna check around to see if these parts are still available. Guess I will be calling Max again for some more parts. :lol:


Fuggin Marks. :mad:
 
Based on past experience, I'd say dpfe...it gets moisture in it over time and you will get either insufficient or excessive flow detected errors. It still could be a sticking egr valve as well. I have seen both at the same time.
 
LaserSVT said:
So we are thinking this code could be both things? What is the more likely part? I would prefer to buy one part and see if it does it rather then use the shotgun method and replace a group of parts.
Now I am gonna check around to see if these parts are still available. Guess I will be calling Max again for some more parts. :lol:


Fuggin Marks. :mad:
Click to expand...


MOTORCRAFT Part # DPFE15 {Bolt-on Mounting #F77Z9J460AB}
F7UE-9J460AA,F77E-9J460AB $66.79 + Shipping for the DPFE

MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1741 {#XC2Z9D475AB}
F7LE-9D475AA,A2A $58.79 + Shipping

Looks like $133.07 to the door and I have posted the 5% off code. If Max can beat that for OEM parts, go for it.
 
An easy way to check if the EGR is opening and closing is to connect a hand vacuum pump to it, start the engine, and let it idle. When you apply vacuum, it should open and cause the engine to idle bad and possibly stall out. When you release the vacuum the engine should idle fine.

Vacuum pumps are about 20 bucks.
 
LaserSVT said:
I must be much dumber then I had thought.

I thought the part circled in red was the EGR valve. :(
IMGP0481.jpg
Click to expand...

I AM dumb in the ways of the Gen II-nice they thought that part might have to be replaced eventually, another reason to consider getting a Gen II (someday).
 
billcu said:
An easy way to check if the EGR is opening and closing is to connect a hand vacuum pump to it, start the engine, and let it idle. When you apply vacuum, it should open and cause the engine to idle bad and possibly stall out. When you release the vacuum the engine should idle fine.

Vacuum pumps are about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...

+1
 
billcu said:
An easy way to check if the EGR is opening and closing is to connect a hand vacuum pump to it, start the engine, and let it idle. When you apply vacuum, it should open and cause the engine to idle bad and possibly stall out. When you release the vacuum the engine should idle fine.

Vacuum pumps are about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...

The three times its given me that code now the engine started to idle very.... lumpy and one time stalled as I was pulling in my driveway. So that tells me the valve is opening and closing just not being controlled correctly so the problem may be just the DPFE?
Does that make sense?
 
LaserSVT said:
The three times its given me that code now the engine started to idle very.... lumpy and one time stalled as I was pulling in my driveway. So that tells me the valve is opening and closing just not being controlled correctly so the problem may be just the DPFE?
Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

Laser, if your part# matches what mine is, I have one that's factory and nothing is wrong with it. I would be more than happy to send it to you if you want it and no, it wasn't involved in the explosion. It was safe inside a metal Craftsman toolbox drawer. If someone can verify that the Gen 1 works on the Gen 2, that would save you close to $50.00 unless you just want to go with a new one. Just offering a cheap part.
 
If I'm not mistaken the EGR valve itself is fairly generic..
So long as the place the EGR tube is pointed in the same direction, it should be the same.

Laser, couldn't you pull the one off the green car for a test?
(wait..scratch that..last "TEST" i suggested didn't go well)
 
I know, but I still feel really really bad...

Laser if your gonna to anything to the EGR valve go liberally spray the egr tube with some PB blaster,WD40,<--insert fav lube product here.
presoaking it "the day before" will help immensely
 
I tell you what Laser, I second what Tommy was about to suggest. I would take one part off the green car since it's easy to get to and see if that's the fix and if so, I'll then send you the cheap replacement for either one you want to put it on. Hows that sound? Just leave the fuel rail alone please. I'm not suggesting to mess with that, even to someone I hate.

Tommy, don't feel bad because most likely, I would have went and done it anyway. It crossed my mind several times to do it. I think I know what happened now anyway. I may have left an o-ring up in the rail when I pulled one of the old ones out. I checked all 4 that I pulled and one was missing an o-ring.

Anyway, Laser, that's seriously what I would do. Swap the part I have first and see what happens. If it's a fix, I can send you this one for shipping, say around $6.00
 
PM sent just in case. I'm 15 min away from leaving for the post office to send Jamie a new compressor that I have here from American Air. I don't think they'll take that thing too lightly if I tried to go through the scanners and inspection to get on a plane lol
 
Cool, I just PMd before I saw this thread. Ill send the money now. :)
 
nolimit94VIII said:
I checked all 4 that I pulled and one was missing an o-ring.
Click to expand...

Ahh... you've likely found the culprit and that would allow a pretty large amount of fuel to be released.

ATLEAST the mystery is solved for the most part.. I hate "unexplained" stuff, especially when it's of a serious nature like FIRE
 
XLRVIII said:
Ahh... you've likely found the culprit and that would allow a pretty large amount of fuel to be released.

ATLEAST the mystery is solved for the most part.. I hate "unexplained" stuff, especially when it's of a serious nature like FIRE
Click to expand...

Yeah, it was a large amount and it happened faster than it had time to make any fuel smell inside the car. I'm sure it was one of the o-rings that was still stuck in the rail. We live and learn. Now, lets just keep Laser from blowing his up lol.
 
LaserSVT said:
The three times its given me that code now the engine started to idle very.... lumpy and one time stalled as I was pulling in my driveway. So that tells me the valve is opening and closing just not being controlled correctly so the problem may be just the DPFE?
Does that make sense?
Click to expand...


If you disconnect the vacuum line, plug it, and try driving it a bit, and it still idles bad, the EGR might not be closing as it should at idle. That would rule out the DPFE and valve that controls the EGR opening. The EGR is normally closed when no vacuum is routed to it from the valve (I forget the actual name of that valve) the DPFE tells the valve when to open (through the PCM).
 
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