ok i got 2 questions for the motorheads

With a good exhaust setup the gain from cutouts is minimal now if it was a full stock exhaust then it would be well worth it, but with a good exhaust setup I wouldn't bother. I do agree that you should run your car sans spray till you figure out just how its going to behave on the track, once you know the car/track then worry about trying to get faster. Also why do you say that 16s will never fit back on your car, they will fit fine I have ran them plenty of times. And I know I am fairly new here, but I have been racing modified MN-12s for almost 10 years including a turbocharged 5.0 Thunderchicken with cobra brakes all the way around been there done that, the 16s will clear.

-Alan
 
driller said:
There are pluses and minuses with the cutouts in my opinion. I've tested mine enough to know they are worth some HP at the track. But it is less than a tenth in ET.

Worth is truly a relative value. ;)
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That is a fact! :D

LaserSVT said:
You should start on a 1/8th track. Need to learn how to launch the car not keep the pedal to the floor after traction is no longer an issue.
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Right again.
The 60 ft is the same no matter what track your at.
That is were your ET is going to come from.
Most of the 1/8th mile tracks are very noob friendly.

Have a buddy with.
Have him talk to the starter so he knows wtf he is doing.
Have him help you to know were you are on the track.
Were the staging lights are, also to put you in the middle of the track, in the groove,that is were the traction is at.

Do every thing the same every time to get base numbers you can work with.
When your not running go watch the tree and visualize in your mind when you would launch your car.
That will help you cut your reaction time, because it gonna suck ;)
Don't number chase...just enjoy the day.
 
lobird91 said:
With a good exhaust setup the gain from cutouts is minimal now if it was a full stock exhaust then it would be well worth it, but with a good exhaust setup I wouldn't bother. I do agree that you should run your car sans spray till you figure out just how its going to behave on the track, once you know the car/track then worry about trying to get faster. Also why do you say that 16s will never fit back on your car, they will fit fine I have ran them plenty of times. And I know I am fairly new here, but I have been racing modified MN-12s for almost 10 years including a turbocharged 5.0 Thunderchicken with cobra brakes all the way around been there done that, the 16s will clear.

-Alan
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What size 16" wheels? Width? Offset?

What I said earlier was that a 16" wheel, with the correct offset (+36mm for a 9" wide rim), wouldn't clear the parking brake cables.

Now, if you want to slap some narrow 16" x 7" stock wheels on the back, they'll probably fit, but what's the point of a 7" wide rim?

He's better off with either a 17" x 9" or 18" x 9" wheel with DR's.
 
A 16x7 or 16x8 will clear fine never tried a 9 or 10, but I will disagree about being better off running a 17 or 18 inch tire, with a big heavy car like the Lincoln the grip you get from a soft sidewall is more (my opinon here from my personal experience) important than the size of the contact patch.

With that said when you air down a soft sidewall tire the contact patch increases quite a bit as well. The last set of tires I ran were 26x11.5-16 mounted on stock mustang 16 x 7.5 (going off memory here) inch waffle pony's (whatever offset those are) and I had a much larger contact patch than I did with a 245/45/17 radial. Actually we tried that setup on my buddies 97 turbo cobra with about 600 hp to see how it would do against his 18 inch 315 drag radials and he was able drop over a second off his 1/4 time not having to feather it out of the hole.

Oh and my mustang will run deep into the 9s on a little 8 inch wide Weld with a little 28x10.5 slick
-Alan
 
Jamie I'm not exactly sure what you've done to the car. If your askin about a stall and spray I guess you don't have them. My best guess would be mid 14s. Your tires sound more than up to the task. I couldn't imagine running a 10 or 11" drag tire for a mid 12 sec mark. Over kill imo. One thing to keep in and look out for is the track prep. What I've seen a lot of tracks don't spray the launch area on test and tune nites, unless you pay. That will make a huge difference. Also if the track you hit is mostly street cars running most likely its not prepped and you don't get that soft rubber the drag tires lay down. If you want some good times go during a comp nite run at least during time trials. Good luck.
 
the test and tunes at sunshine on wed. nights some serious cars show up, tons of insane rotary cars, alot of big inch muscle cars, they do spray the track i have been there just never took my car yet. i have raced a 1/4 miles years ago, we used to go every weekend practically to lebenon valley dragway in new york. i ran my 85 mustang gt there many times. i was never really into the track racing though i just liked having a quick car on the street, i just want to know what my car is capable of, i am not gonna take it there every week, just once in a while to have fun. i would like to dyno the car too and see some numbers before i do anything else to it. and bill the eaton is gone, i wanted that thing so bad but i sacrificed it for plane ticket to go get my wifes car, see i'm not that big of a dick, i think of others before me sometimes. i almost cried but oh well thats life.
 
Well Jamie here is some advice for the runs. Seriously, go to the 1/8th track cause you are usually able to make more runs and thats where you and I need practice, the launches. There is a fool prrof way to calculate your 1/4 from 1/8 times.

As for the launching and staging, dont drop the tire pressure down. Street tires dont like that. 26-28lbs is perfect. Dont do a nitro-meth burn out. Drive around the water box and just do a couple second burn out to clean the tire and kick off any water. At the lights just bring the car to 1000 rpm so its out of its idle loop and roll on the gas. When you feel the nose lift then you can mash it.

Hope it helps.
 
16s? :confused:

17s?? :confused: :confused:

Hell, these are 15s! :D :D :D

mini-IMG00093-20100314-1726.jpg


mini-IMG00102-20100314-1730.jpg
 
BAD97LSC said:
15's driller but what are you running for rear brakes stock?
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He's got Cobra rotors with the relocation brackets. I installed them.

The determining issue with the wheels will be width and offset. I know that he had to grind on his calipers a bit, but I don't know his wheel width or offset.
 
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Yea the barrel is kind of thick on a Weld giving you less space inside the wheel. Driller would have to chime back in for the exact size, but those looks like 15x8s. I was looking at running the same wheel but didn't want to take quite that much off my caliper.
Jamie its gonna come down to your personal preference, my street tires have always hooked worse at the track. Even on one of my stockish fox coupes. Ran 245/45/17 Kumhos on the street, they hardly ever spun even from stalled up stop light launches, but on the track I was spinning well into second gear. Drag radials work, no doubt about it, but one of the main benefits of a race oriented tire is a sidewall that can absorb the impact from putting the hammer down, the only way I would run a 17 or 18 inch radial is if I couldn't fit a 15 or 16. The 15 probably isn't the way to go because you will have to modify the caplier some amount (the actual amount will depend on wheel design). A 16x7 or a 16x8 on the other hand will fit with no modifications (unless its a really goofy wheel) and hold more than enough tire to put a mark into the 10s.
 
DLF said:
He's got Cobra rotors with the relocation brackets. I installed them.
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Geesh Doug, you make it sound like I wasn't even there! :p

lobird91 said:
Yea the barrel is kind of thick on a Weld giving you less space inside the wheel. Driller would have to chime back in for the exact size, but those looks like 15x8s. I was looking at running the same wheel but didn't want to take quite that much off my caliper.
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I tried the wheels before buying them. The wheel was free just before snugging the lugnuts so I determined it would not take much grinding to fit and I could see where it was hitting the wheel.

They are 15x8s with a 5.5" backspace. I did have to grind the caliper. It wasn't much, it was just the outside edge of the caliper that needed radiused. When I did the grinding, I tested one wheel with 1/2" flat washers over the wheel studs and the wheel cleared fine. Only like 1/8" or so was required to clear and I gave it a small clearance so I only had to grind like a 3/16" fillet on the outside edge of the calipers. I could of swore I had a pic but I can't seem to find it.

DLF warned me about the e-brake cables but when I checked them, mine had 1/4" to 1/2" clearance.
 
so it might be safe to say that if i grab a pair of snowflakes and mount some drag radials on them i should be able to put the snowflakes on the back of my car, hell i have some stock 20 spokes i'll just pop one on and see for myself! i'll have to get a pair of snowflakes since i dont have any wheels kicking around that i can use.
 
BAD97LSC said:
so it might be safe to say that if i grab a pair of snowflakes and mount some drag radials on them i should be able to put the snowflakes on the back of my car, hell i have some stock 20 spokes i'll just pop one on and see for myself! i'll have to get a pair of snowflakes since i dont have any wheels kicking around that i can use.
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Yeah, just put them on and check for caliper and parking brake cable clearance.

Sorry, if I misled you....
 
no no thats cool i mean if i wasnt so lazy all i had to do was grab a wheel in my shop and check lol!!
 
well i found out today when i corrected my brake rotors that a stock 20 spoke fit on the rear without touching anything, so i answered my own question and now i need to find 2 snowflakes and have them powdercoated and pick up some drag radials, all this when i hit the lottery lmao!
 
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