Navigation Deck install

S

Screw-Rice

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
1,041
Reaction score
0
Location
Colorado Springs, Co
Well since Laser hasn't replied to my pm, I figure I will make a topic. :p

I bought an Eclipse AVN5495 with 30g hard drive.I have never done a Nav deck install before, just your usual CD players,etc. So I want to get some info before jumping into the install.

I know the opening needs to be modded some, what was the best way to go about this? Now for the main reason for this post....

1) Where do I find the vehicle speed pulse sensor
2)Since I don't have the back up camera attachment, do I even need to bother with the reverse signal wire?
3)For the Parking brake wire, I can just ground it out, correct? Thus allowing me to use everything while in motion...I don't plan on watching movies while driving, but still....

I think that is all for now.
 
I was busy ass hat. My computer got a virus and I lost 10 years worth of pics. All my Cobra pics, 97 Mark pics, ex-fiance (dead) pics and all my pics of back home in Maui plus 5 gig of porn and 5 gigs of music and my SCT software. I was and am beyond pissed and have been busy fixing it all day.



Anyway the speed pulse wire can be taken from the harness for the air ride on the passenger side kick pannel. I can go out tomorrow to tell you what wire it is.

No you dont need the reverse wire hooked up.

As for the ground wire, it worked on my Eclipse but not sure if that will work on yours or not. You may have to get that $9 instruction thing from ebay for that series of deck.

Lastly, the system will sound much better if you run new speaker wires to the deck and completly bypass the cars stock amp.
 
On my 98 the speed wire is green with a white stripe. Its located behind the passenger side kick pannel.
 
I have an amp I have had sitting in my garage for some time. I was wondering if I should just swap it with the factory one. Incidentally, where is the factory one?

The pic tomorrow will be appreciated, so I know exactly which one to tap.

Well are feel for you and your porn loss. :lol: This is why I need to get a damn external hard drive. I have so much music, and pics of my old cars,etc.
 
I am not taking a picture. I told you the wire color and location. Dont mount the new amp where the old amp is and dont try to use any of the old wires.

Bring it by and I will install the deck and amp for $165 plus parts cost. :)


When nav decks first came out and had dual parts (brain that you had to hide somewhere) my shop charged $200 to install them. $45 for a regular deck, $50 to bypass a stock amp, $35 for speakers, $100 for seperates, $50 for a two channel amp and $65 for a four channel amp. Alarms varied but started at $85 and ran up to $1000. Install kits for decks have gotten nuts too. Used to be a $15 harness to slap a deck in a new GM. Now its $129 for that wire harness so that the chimes and oil change interval still work right in some cars. Never could figure why GM decided to put that info and noises in the car stereo.
 
How the hell did you ninja that one reply in with the wire color? :lol:

Should I snag a Ford adapter harness from a stereo shop? I usually do that incase I need to pull the deck out, since it is simpler disconnecting a harness.

I'll pay you for the install, if you pay for the gas for me to get there. :lol: I can do it, just want to have all my ducks in a row first.
 
Yeah, I like adapter harneses. Scosche makes one that has the Eclipse plug on one side and the Ford plug on the other but thats only good if you use the factory amp.
Now if you are gonna use an aftermarket amp but retain the stock speakers then you will need 4 140-160 microFarad caps and put one on each positive pole on the 2.5" "full range" speakers or else you will esplode dem.
 
I might not bother with the amp for now, but if it will sound better, I might bypass the factory one. Pretty bad if it sounds better without the factory one. :lol:

After doing some more research, looks like grounding out the parking wire, works just fine for this deck.

Edit: If I run new wires, I know I will have to pop the back seat out, but should I pull the fronts, or will the sill, give me enough room?
 
Only gotta pull the lower cushion out. The rear speaker covers just pop right off and running the wire will be easy. For the doors you will have to pull the door pannel off and pop the speakers out. Then pop the rubber conduit out from the jamb and the door. Shove a wire hanger from the kick pannel through the jamb then snake it through the rubber hose and then through the door. Make a tight loop on the end and tie the speaker wire to it then tape it up and slowly pull the wire through to the inside of the car and then pop the rubber hose back on the door and jam. Then run that wire to the tweeters and "subs". IKts not too bad.

See the stock system runs the 6x8 speakers in a summond mono signal and thats why bass in the stock setups is sloppy and has poor seperation. With the new wires running off the deck you will be running true stereo and the detail and clarity will go up quite a bit. Still a good idea to get the caps for the 2.5" speakers though. Also now is really the best time to put in better speakers. There are some Rockford Power series on ebay for like $40 a pair and they sound great! Or spend a little more and get some Infinity Refrence components for around $80 a pair and really enjoy the music. Ask Jamie how he likes his!

If you wanna get adventurous you can get some Boston SL60 components for under $100 on ebay and with those you will be blown away with that deck. I ran the SL60s and an Eclipse in my 97 Mark and man did it sound KILLER!
 
It is best if you have a mounting cage. The radio will be well supported. In the picture I have below, you want to take a dremel and grind on the upper portion until you get to where the leather is glued. Test the fit of the cage and grind a bit more until the cage fits snug.
100_2829.jpg
 
My eventual game plan, is to upgrade the speakers, and then run a single 10 in the trunk.

I have blown a lot of cash this week, so it's only going to be basics for now. The rest will come in the following months.

Starting a new job next week, so want to see what the checks look like, before I go nuts.
 
What i would do, is run the wires but don't hook them up. The pain is pulling out the seats and all the stuff. Speaker wire is cheap. Label front left and right, Rear left and right. Run your RCA's and power wire. Tape off the ends, and they sit dormant until you're ready to go crazy.
 
Got it installed without issue. Mike did the wiring while I pulled stuff apart. :lol:

Have to make a trim ring, but it has been working well for over a month. Will get a pic up shortly.
 
I love eclipse. I had two of their decks back in the day. They were awesome products. Aftermarket amps will drastically improve the quality of sound coming from your speakers.
 
I'll eventually pull the factory amp, upgrade the interior speakers, and go with a good amp for the interior. Then a 10" sub in the trunk, with an amp to push it...kind of partial to Phoenix Gold stuff myself.
 
Screw-Rice said:
I'll eventually pull the factory amp, upgrade the interior speakers, and go with a good amp for the interior. Then a 10" sub in the trunk, with an amp to push it...kind of partial to Phoenix Gold stuff myself.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Phoenix Gold was top notch when I was into that stuff. They had this one amp that I fell in love with but was far out of my price range (it was back in 1998, I was only 18) The amp was $2000. It was called the Phoenix Gold Tarantula. That thing was bada$$!

That's good to know the brands that were top dogs back then still fare well today. My dream system back then was Eclipse double din head unit, Phoenix Gold Tarantula for my highs, Phoenix Gold for my subs, Clarion Srr6922 6X9's, Eclipse tweeters and 6 1/2's, and an Orion Ntense Sub.

It's crazy how things change. I really wanted a Cerwin Vega Stroker back in the day too. Those things were pure insanity! A freaking metal rod sticking out of the center and push over 1000watts! Those things were NUTS!
 
Looks clean. You can get a trim ring either on Ebay or, I'll bet that if you went into a Car Toys or something and asked them for a trim ring, they would probably give it to you.
 
True, will have to be modified a bit, since it is flush up top, have the gap on sides and bottom. Definitely updates the look of the car.
 
ripped camel said:
Awesome! Phoenix Gold was top notch when I was into that stuff. They had this one amp that I fell in love with but was far out of my price range (it was back in 1998, I was only 18) The amp was $2000. It was called the Phoenix Gold Tarantula. That thing was bada$$!

That's good to know the brands that were top dogs back then still fare well today. My dream system back then was Eclipse double din head unit, Phoenix Gold Tarantula for my highs, Phoenix Gold for my subs, Clarion Srr6922 6X9's, Eclipse tweeters and 6 1/2's, and an Orion Ntense Sub.

It's crazy how things change. I really wanted a Cerwin Vega Stroker back in the day too. Those things were pure insanity! A freaking metal rod sticking out of the center and push over 1000watts! Those things were NUTS!
Click to expand...
The Tarantula was made by Soundstream. It was a 2000w mono block sub amp.
Its sister amp was the DaVinci and that amp was for the highs and center channels.

Once upon a time Soundstream made spectacular amps.

Tarantula%2001.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 81 (members: 0, guests: 81)
Back
Top