joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I have aluminum cookware that is many years old (more than twenty). Its all been through the dish washer many times and is still just fine. Still, I understand the cautious approach.
My $400 LS Registry
- Thread starter BrianDye
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I have aluminum cookware that is many years old (more than twenty). Its all been through the dish washer many times and is still just fine. Still, I understand the cautious approach.
Drained out as much as I could while it was still warm (Didn't want the oil to settle, if thats even possible?) and its not bad at all. Nowhere near as bad as I thought. I will keep topping off with water, and draining what I can until its clear, and then start adding coolant. I picked up 50/50, im gonna probably have to go exchange it for full strength, since there will be a ton of water in the system.
So after a few more drain & fills, as well as aggressively spraying water into the degas to get the oil/detergent out, the water is completely clear. When I get up Sunday, I will be draining and filling with Prestone, and theoretically, this thing should basically be road-ready. Monday I will get it plated, and figure out if I want to risk driving it across town to the shop, or pay $50 to have it towed there to get the exhaust done.
No check engine codes anymore like I mentioned above, but now the airbag light is on. Its flashing on and off before it stays on. I have a new-ish battery in the garage I used in the back of my Explorer for a month or so, I am going to throw that in the LS tomorrow to see if its just a bad battery. (I will of course be buying an OEM battery in the next week or two)
No check engine codes anymore like I mentioned above, but now the airbag light is on. Its flashing on and off before it stays on. I have a new-ish battery in the garage I used in the back of my Explorer for a month or so, I am going to throw that in the LS tomorrow to see if its just a bad battery. (I will of course be buying an OEM battery in the next week or two)
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's actually flashing out a two digit code a few times. The LF code will give some clue as to what the problem is.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1kb04.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_105
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1kb04.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_105
Awesome, I never paid attention to the number of flashes since I was focused on bleeding the cooling system, but I was wondering if it was flashing a code or not. I was able to pull the airbag light codes from my code reader in my Explorer, but no such luck with the LS.
When I got up today, after I read your post and checked out the link, I went out there to see what the code was, low and behold now there's no more light. I had the car running for quite some time yesterday so I'm going out on a limb and thinking it charged up the battery more and today starting it was fine. Definitely time for a new battery.
Going out now to finish off the coolant flush and getting coolant in there. Really can't wait to get this thing on the road hopefully tomorrow! That'll open up a whole new world of parts I need LOL.
When I got up today, after I read your post and checked out the link, I went out there to see what the code was, low and behold now there's no more light. I had the car running for quite some time yesterday so I'm going out on a limb and thinking it charged up the battery more and today starting it was fine. Definitely time for a new battery.
Going out now to finish off the coolant flush and getting coolant in there. Really can't wait to get this thing on the road hopefully tomorrow! That'll open up a whole new world of parts I need LOL.
It's probably the connector under one of the seats. The number of times it flashes will tell you which one. It will probably come back when you adjust your seat or someone hits it with their feet.
There's a yellow connector under each seat. This is the culprit.
Coolant is done, fuel filter is done, we're golden.
Watching the temps on my phone, its showing the coolant right around 205-210 on average with no heat/ac on. With heat, it stays closer to 200, sometimes even a bit lower. (Idling in the driveway, 80ish degrees outside)
Fuel filter spit out perfectly clean fuel, I was very surprised. Popped the fuel pump relay out, let the car run until it died, which was only maybe 20 seconds, popped the filter out, new one in and was done with that in maybe 20 minutes. Not bad at all. Worst part was getting the old filter out of that metal bracket and the new one in.
All is well.
Old girl needs a bath. First place ill stop if I drive it to Muffler Man is the carwash
Watching the temps on my phone, its showing the coolant right around 205-210 on average with no heat/ac on. With heat, it stays closer to 200, sometimes even a bit lower. (Idling in the driveway, 80ish degrees outside)
Fuel filter spit out perfectly clean fuel, I was very surprised. Popped the fuel pump relay out, let the car run until it died, which was only maybe 20 seconds, popped the filter out, new one in and was done with that in maybe 20 minutes. Not bad at all. Worst part was getting the old filter out of that metal bracket and the new one in.
All is well.
Old girl needs a bath. First place ill stop if I drive it to Muffler Man is the carwash
Old girl needs a bath. First place ill stop if I drive it to Muffler Man is the carwash
Maybe the first place should be the gas station?!?!?!?!?! Remember, the fuel in the tank cools the fuel pump...
That was the unspoken first stop. I've considered driving it over to the gas station even before today just so I could fill up. Wish I would've thought to have the tow truck pull in a gas station for me so I could've hopped up and filled up.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
This is generally good advice, but gen II doesn't seem to suffer from that problem.
Sorry Baum, didn't even see your response. I am almost certain it's a battery issue. When I start the car after sitting for a period of time, airbag light is on. If I turn the car off, and start it again within a few hours or same day, no airbag light. Ford seems to always have issues with those yellow connectors though. The Explorers suffer from the same problem. Thanks for the tip though!
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So today I went to S.O.S. to get plates. Got my first personalized plate, figured why not since I have one of my dream cars. Got the temporary window tag, stopped at Muffler Man since it was right there to ask how much for what I wanted, he just got busted for a catalytic converter so he will not just put a muffler in place of that third cat like I wanted, but oh well. We decided for now, install that third cat.
I came home, let the LS run for a bit to warm up, and was still debating on driving it to the shop or having it towed. Towing is $50 flat rate, ticket for no exhaust is probably a bit higher. I was going to drive it to the gas station regardless, so I could finally get gas, and then found out that it's actually not stupid loud when I'm cruising, only on acceleration.
Threw $35 bucks in gas in (time crunch, pump was going so slow), and headed to Muffler Man. I had a BLAST driving the thing. I never really accelerated hard, but god the thing is a dream to drive. As far as I can tell, there are no other issues. I do however want to replace the upper ball joints, as I saw the boots were cracked when I was replacing the fuel filter. I'll also probably throw on new pads and rotors. Battery this Friday for sure, and now that it's road ready, I can do some cosmetic upgrades. Tint will be done hopefully Friday or Saturday. I feel so naked in the car with every window clear as day.
I'd like to thank you guys all for your help so far, definitely would've been so much more work if not for you guys!
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So today I went to S.O.S. to get plates. Got my first personalized plate, figured why not since I have one of my dream cars. Got the temporary window tag, stopped at Muffler Man since it was right there to ask how much for what I wanted, he just got busted for a catalytic converter so he will not just put a muffler in place of that third cat like I wanted, but oh well. We decided for now, install that third cat.
I came home, let the LS run for a bit to warm up, and was still debating on driving it to the shop or having it towed. Towing is $50 flat rate, ticket for no exhaust is probably a bit higher. I was going to drive it to the gas station regardless, so I could finally get gas, and then found out that it's actually not stupid loud when I'm cruising, only on acceleration.
Threw $35 bucks in gas in (time crunch, pump was going so slow), and headed to Muffler Man. I had a BLAST driving the thing. I never really accelerated hard, but god the thing is a dream to drive. As far as I can tell, there are no other issues. I do however want to replace the upper ball joints, as I saw the boots were cracked when I was replacing the fuel filter. I'll also probably throw on new pads and rotors. Battery this Friday for sure, and now that it's road ready, I can do some cosmetic upgrades. Tint will be done hopefully Friday or Saturday. I feel so naked in the car with every window clear as day.
I'd like to thank you guys all for your help so far, definitely would've been so much more work if not for you guys!
Couple of random questions.
1. What "temperature" are the factory HIDs?
2. Has anyone figured out the issue with switchback LEDs up front? I read a few threads where people said the switchbacks didn't work properly in the LS. I have an extra brand new set in the garage id love to throw in.
3. I also read that if I swapped all 4 turn signals, I wouldn't need load resistors to cure the rapid flash. True or false? And will I have bulb-out messages? Im toying with the idea of red blinkers in the back. I think the red would look good with the clear lens, and red taillight. Dunno, we'll see.
1. What "temperature" are the factory HIDs?
2. Has anyone figured out the issue with switchback LEDs up front? I read a few threads where people said the switchbacks didn't work properly in the LS. I have an extra brand new set in the garage id love to throw in.
3. I also read that if I swapped all 4 turn signals, I wouldn't need load resistors to cure the rapid flash. True or false? And will I have bulb-out messages? Im toying with the idea of red blinkers in the back. I think the red would look good with the clear lens, and red taillight. Dunno, we'll see.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
1. Probably 4300K
2. Not that I've seen. It can certainly be done. The least elegant solution would take two relays per bulb. I could probably whip up something better with transistors. The problem is that the LEDs are setup for a common ground, and the LS has a common positive.
3. Pretty sure you will need load resistor anyway.
2. Not that I've seen. It can certainly be done. The least elegant solution would take two relays per bulb. I could probably whip up something better with transistors. The problem is that the LEDs are setup for a common ground, and the LS has a common positive.
3. Pretty sure you will need load resistor anyway.
RigsLS
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Peanut butter sandwich much?
Ah, damn. Too much work for me to care to try to get them going. I forgot about the LS using the ground instead of positive.
I just got it back home. 30 something miles on it so far. No airbag light, and now my right blinker indicator in the cluster works. Picked it up from the exhaust shop, drove it to the carwash, scrubbed her from head to toe. Shes looking good, then topped off on gas (Im not used to this little 18 gal tank, my Explorer is 22.5, I had about 3/4 of a tank and it only took like $10 to fill it up, I thought there was an issue with my filler neck, lol) and now its back home. Shes doing great, although once in a while, i'm getting a really rough shift into reverse which I don't like.
I haven't given it WOT yet, I have bad memories from my moms LS where it really went haywire if you got on it. I did get up and go plenty of times, its nice to have power again. My Explorer is just a dog.
No odd noises, the suspension only squeaked once, when I hit a big dip where the road went down, up and back down again. Feels like I probably could get the wheels balanced, theres an ever-so-slight vibration around 60-70.
Anyone else have a loose mirror? My rear view doesn't have a problem staying where I adjust it, but any little vibration or bump causes it to shake/wobble a bit. Theres like a tad bit of play in the arm or something. Bugging the hell out of me.
I just got it back home. 30 something miles on it so far. No airbag light, and now my right blinker indicator in the cluster works. Picked it up from the exhaust shop, drove it to the carwash, scrubbed her from head to toe. Shes looking good, then topped off on gas (Im not used to this little 18 gal tank, my Explorer is 22.5, I had about 3/4 of a tank and it only took like $10 to fill it up, I thought there was an issue with my filler neck, lol) and now its back home. Shes doing great, although once in a while, i'm getting a really rough shift into reverse which I don't like.
I haven't given it WOT yet, I have bad memories from my moms LS where it really went haywire if you got on it. I did get up and go plenty of times, its nice to have power again. My Explorer is just a dog.
No odd noises, the suspension only squeaked once, when I hit a big dip where the road went down, up and back down again. Feels like I probably could get the wheels balanced, theres an ever-so-slight vibration around 60-70.
Anyone else have a loose mirror? My rear view doesn't have a problem staying where I adjust it, but any little vibration or bump causes it to shake/wobble a bit. Theres like a tad bit of play in the arm or something. Bugging the hell out of me.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
My (probably faulty) memory is that he was only able to get them to almost work correctly, or to work correctly much of the time, but not all of the time. I think that maybe they worked okay with the head/parking lights off, but not so good with them on, or something like that.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I wouldn't say that it is loose, but the mirror in my 04 responds noticeably more to vibration than the one in my 06. I didn't see any obvious way to correct it, other than to replace it.
If you decide to try...
Remove: Place the interior rear view mirror in the full DOWN position. Pull upward until released.
Install: They recommend a special tool to squeeze it back on the button. It looks like you could probably do it with channel locks though.
Ill have to pull it off and see if theres anything loose or something. Worst case, ill throw in a different auto-dimming mirror, though ill lose the compass. I can get the same one my Explorer has for around $20.
Im thinking it wouldn't hurt to throw a new transmission solenoid pack in, seems like thats always the culprit when there are harsh engages into gear. Couple questions -
1. What is the best website to buy it from? (And what trans do I actually have, I was on FordParts and they listed three different 5-speed transmissions in an 03)
2. Whats the website for the PCM rebuild? The car was driven with bad coils long enough to kill the cats, I wouldn't doubt my PCM could use a "tune-up" as well. Wouldn't hurt to at least send it to them and pay the $100 if there's nothing wrong with it.
Im thinking it wouldn't hurt to throw a new transmission solenoid pack in, seems like thats always the culprit when there are harsh engages into gear. Couple questions -
1. What is the best website to buy it from? (And what trans do I actually have, I was on FordParts and they listed three different 5-speed transmissions in an 03)
2. Whats the website for the PCM rebuild? The car was driven with bad coils long enough to kill the cats, I wouldn't doubt my PCM could use a "tune-up" as well. Wouldn't hurt to at least send it to them and pay the $100 if there's nothing wrong with it.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
1. I like Tasca and FordPartsGiant, should be 5R55S - you can enter your VIN to be sure.
2. http://siaelec.com/product/lincoln-ls-ecm-ecu-repair-return/
2. http://siaelec.com/product/lincoln-ls-ecm-ecu-repair-return/
Sheesh, that parts a lot more than I thought it'd be. Oh well. Part number 1L2Z-7G391-AE, right?
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...)&Location=valve-body-and-main-control,,7G391
Im gonna post a video of my normal shifting into gear, and then show it shifting through gears while I drive, it never-doesnt, but it seems like it sometimes holds first longer than it should. Would this also be the PCM and/or solenoid?
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...)&Location=valve-body-and-main-control,,7G391
Im gonna post a video of my normal shifting into gear, and then show it shifting through gears while I drive, it never-doesnt, but it seems like it sometimes holds first longer than it should. Would this also be the PCM and/or solenoid?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Unfortunately, it could be either/or/both. There could also be valve body issues. I think if I was replacing the solenoid assembly (and I suspect that I will be soon), I would go ahead and rebuild the valve body too.
If you are going to send the PCM in, by all means do that first.
If you are going to send the PCM in, by all means do that first.
I just drove it to work, made it there just fine. Definitely needs some suspension work. It was windy as hell today, and it was a workout to keep the car in a straight line. Felt like the car was just floating for lack of a better term. Don't know exactly what would cause that though. Steering feels really light, I don't like it at all. Any little pebble in the road can be felt through the steering wheel.
The trans definitely needs some work, sometimes it shifts just fine, then another stop & go and it shifts like crap. I used SST when I got closer to work and shifting manually seemed to be a lot smoother.
I'll have to see if there's any articles on removing the PCM, that'll be my first shot since it's cheaper than the solenoid. What all does rebuilding the valve body entail? I have never touched a transmission before, and most of the terms are foreign to me.
The trans definitely needs some work, sometimes it shifts just fine, then another stop & go and it shifts like crap. I used SST when I got closer to work and shifting manually seemed to be a lot smoother.
I'll have to see if there's any articles on removing the PCM, that'll be my first shot since it's cheaper than the solenoid. What all does rebuilding the valve body entail? I have never touched a transmission before, and most of the terms are foreign to me.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Floating: Probably the front control arms (more likely lower than upper), but rear toe links shouldn't be discounted either.
PCM: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x3e006.htm~gen~ref.htm
Valve body: I think the typical way to go about it is to buy a shift kit and follow the instructions that come with it.
PCM: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x3e006.htm~gen~ref.htm
Valve body: I think the typical way to go about it is to buy a shift kit and follow the instructions that come with it.