My $400 LS Registry

BrianDye

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This thread will be long, and full of pictures. If you are on a cell phone with limited data, BACK UP NOW! :)

So I was browsing Facebook while bored and waiting for broadcast at work. Came across this:
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I immediately sent a message asking for some information. My biggest question was what happened to make you say it needs a motor? She really didn't have much information, it was her husbands car, and he wasnt home at the time. She basically just kept saying it needs a motor, and otherwise is a great car, and needed a radio. (I assumed they had an aftermarket in there and planned on keeping it). Then she also mentioned it didn't have coil packs on it, so it would definitely need those. (Needs a motor, but she said it needs coil packs, lol)

So I ended up getting up super early that next day (there were probably 10+ other people trying to come get it saying "cash in hand" etc in the comments. I got home from work at appx 4am, and was back up by 9 to go look at the car. They lived about 5 miles away, so it was a quick trip, she said her husband would already be gone, and she leaves for Church at 10:30, so I told her id be there at 10 to look at it, and also asked if it would be an issue to keep the car there until the following day, because I had to go to work early that day, and she said it was no issue.

I get there, and the husband walked outside, which I was glad so I could hopefully pry some more info from him. I was seriously tossing and turning in bed wondering why the hell I am considering buying an LS that needs a motor. What else could it need? How much of a money pit is this thing gonna be? I just kept telling myself that for only $500, I could easily get my money back and walk away from it, I could part it out and probably triple my money and then some, or bite the bullet, take it to a shop and pay to have a replacement engine dropped in, and then either drive it, or sell it and make some money off it.

I really LOVE the LS'es, I have since day one, and everyone Ive been in, or have had in the family, has had major issues. My step dad (who worked at the Wixom plant and built them) bought one as soon as they were available to buy, and got rid of it before it even had 2000 miles or something like that, because it was literally at the dealership more than we had it because of major issues. But I love these damn things. I absolutely love everything about the way they look, I love the interior top to bottom, and I love the power, and features. So what better to do than buy one for dirt cheap and fix it up I suppose.

So anywho, im looking the thing up and down, no rust aside from the underbody (typical when you live in the salt-belt) and one small pinhole looking spot on the rear driver side door. No biggie. Headlights a little hazy, but again, easy fix. Couple small areas of paint missing on the rear bumper, if I keep it, ill have it painted. Thats really all, on the outside. Wheels have some pitting and such, but I would ditch them once the tires needed replacing. They aren't terribly ugly though.

So hes telling me the backstory, the cars been in the family since new, it was last his brothers, or something and they were in a bind and needed to sell the car, so he bought it as a spare/work car and drove it to work, which was like 60 miles each way, and why the car has 180k on it. Said the only issue they had ever had with it aside from normal wear and tear was replacing the rack for steering twice. Didn't ask why, I was kind of drooling still at the car. He also mentioned that its been leaking some power steering fluid ever since, but he just keeps it topped off. Oh, he also said they put a new blower motor in, but no air comes out. Im thinking maybe a blend door or something is stuck, because the fan is definitely pushing air somewhere. I got inside, and he had the whole center console torn apart, with the stock radio sitting on the seat, so I was happy to see I can have a radio for it, for now. He said they gave the coil packs on it to someone in their family, they needed it and the LS had been sitting, so he had no use for them. He said it was parked for just under a year (I found some bank and food receipts that kind of verify this info, they were old, and from about when he said he parked it). I asked what the deal was for them to just say it needs an engine. He told me he was driving to work one day and it just lost power, like it was running, but didn't want to move. (First thing that came to my head was clogged cat). He parked it, had it towed home, and the next day said it started up fine, drove down the block fine and then did the same thing once it got warm, and really struggled to get up their driveway to park it. He said it was leaked some kind of fluid out afterwards, but there was no stains or anything under the car. (Thinking maybe it was just some water or possibly the AC draining or something?) He basically said they

I was again over-thinking it, like what the hell am I thinking buying a car that needs an engine!? I offered him $400, and he hesitantly accepted. Signed the title over, brought me both sets of keys (WHO the hell even has both keys anymore!? Every vehicle I buy has only had one key, I swear!) It even has the grey valet key in the owners manual leather case, along with the window sticker, leather seat care info, and all the pamphlets the car came with! I told him I would be back the next day with a Uhaul dolly/trailer to get it home, and he said nobody would be home, so if the neighbors ask, just bring the title and let them know I bought it. (I completely forgot to bring the title with me when I did come back!)

Uhaul wouldn't rent a dolly because the car being towed is RWD, and because I drive an Explorer. (Because the early 90's second gen Explorers had that rollover issue from those Firestone tires). Mines an 06...but whatever. They wanted $50 and i'm sure all kinds of little fees once returned. I ended up getting a flatbed tow truck to load it and drop it off for only $50, and it took 10 minutes. I didn't have to do a thing, so it was WELL worth it.

Didn't have much time before I had to leave for work, maybe an hour and a half, so I ended up putting the interior back together, and then power washing the exterior. So much gunk built up under the mouldings and like between the taillights and trunk lid and such. Also power washed the engine bay, it was mainly dusty, but it was night and day from a simple rinse.

So at this point, before anything, I knew I needed coil packs. I wanted to try and diagnose the engine before giving up on it and deciding it'll get a new engine. A buddy at work had his old set still, along with a brand new set of valve cover gaskets he never used before he sold his. He gave it all to me for free. Score!

So here it was being towed, and then at my house (By the way, anyone in Monroe/Newport, MI, I highly reccomend A1 tow. Guy was nice, extremely fast, and even laid wood on the ground to make sure the car wasnt going to scrape the front bumper, or rear bumper/exhaust tips)

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Shes home now
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Gave her a bath, doesnt look much different in the pictures, but it was night and day. The paint was dull and covered in dust and crap before.
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I couldn't wait to get up the next day to try throwing those coils on. I dont have the bolts, or the covers for them unfortunately, so putting them on is basically just to see if I can get it running, not actually drive it around or anything. (Ive read that some members run without the covers, so im not worried about those, but I will get the bolts from my hardware store ASAP)

The coils barely fit. I've never dealt with coil packs before, only plugs and wires, so I was expecting that normal "snap" feeling you get when connecting a spark plug wire. I didn't get that on any of these damn coils. I pulled a spark plug out to see what the deal was, and the coil pack was literally just sliding right over the spark plug, like with no force, or anything, so I pinched a few and they seemed to hold better. I will definitely be buying a set of the $60 coils on Amazon just to have new ones to bolt on, and when/if I actually do get it running/driving, ill invest in a set of OEM ones.

I was saddened to see they had Bosch plugs in this engine. (Im an Explorer guy as well, and Bosch plugs in any of the Explorers engines from 1991 until now just cause chaos. Nothing but problems) So unless anyone says otherwise, ill get a set of MotorCraft or Autolite plugs ASAP.

Remember, this car sat for a pretty much a year straight. After throwing the coils on, with very little hesitation:
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Something you may notice from that pic...theres no CEL on. Its on, but its not lighting up. (I have a wireless scanner that connects to DashCommand on my iPad, and pulled a few codes its throwing)

Its not running great, or smooth by any means, but its running. Shaking pretty violently too. Exhaust is making some awful noises like its just completely clogged and full of sh*t.

So my next feat is to remove the cats. Then I realized there are 3, the two main cats, and then the one at the end where both pipes go into. I cut that one off first. Fired it up, and it was running 1000x better already. Smooth idle, giving it gas would give me a LITTLE response, etc. Went to wrenching on the other two, got one bolt off each one, then the passenger side second bolt snapped. Can't even get a socket to get to the drivers side upper bolt, so I cant get that one off, i'm just going to hack it up until I can get to the bolt.

The cat I did get off though, was completely shot. Large chunks of the cat innards in the pipe, and rattling around in the cat. Drivers side looks to be the same.
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The engine wasn't overheating, got up to temp and stayed right in the middle there, but it is leaking PS fluid. PO said the rack was replaced twice for some reason, but he just keeps the fluid topped off. Can't say yet how much it actually leaks.

Such a sexy rear end!
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Current issues other than the engine/cats:

-Blinkers are funky. Left side works fine, but sometimes the indicator in the cluster doesn't light up. Right side sometimes flashes fast and slow, and the indicator never lights up.
-Check Engine light never comes on, not even when turning the key
-Rear pass. window doesn't move. I can hear something click when I hit the button, but it wont go down
-Foggy headlights, definitely gonna take some elbow work to restore them
-Clockspring is going out. When the easy-entry moves, or I manually adjust the wheel, the airbag light flashes (Could be the issue with the blinker too, sometimes moving the steering wheel fixes the fast flashing)
-CD changer just shows "CD ERROR" when I try anything with it. No biggie, ill go aftermarket if I keep it
 
...-Blinkers are funky. Left side works fine, but sometimes the indicator in the cluster doesn't light up. Right side sometimes flashes fast and slow, and the indicator never lights up. ...

Probably the multi-function switch, or it could be the wiring in the column going to it. It's also possible that the bulb in the cluster is loose or burnt out.

...-Check Engine light never comes on, not even when turning the key...

Bulb burnt out in the cluster, the bulbs are replaceable.

...-Rear pass. window doesn't move. I can hear something click when I hit the button, but it wont go down...

Window regulator.

...Clockspring is going out. When the easy-entry moves, or I manually adjust the wheel, the airbag light flashes (Could be the issue with the blinker too, sometimes moving the steering wheel fixes the fast flashing)...

Usually, if it is the clock spring, it is only affected by turning the wheel, not by movement of the column. Also, gen II clockspring failure seems to be very rare. I'd check the wires in the column going to the clockspring. The turn signals do not run through the clockspring. The only thing in common between them is the wiring running to them in the column.

...-CD changer just shows "CD ERROR" when I try anything with it. ...

This is normal operation for the factory changer after a few years of use.
 
This is normal operation for the factory changer after a few years of use.

The changer in the 2000 was still working when we sold it a few months ago after almost 16 years. The one in my wife's '06 is also working fine...
 
Hey Brian, year 2000 called, they want their 3G network back Bud! :p
 
The changer in the 2000 was still working when we sold it a few months ago after almost 16 years. The one in my wife's '06 is also working fine...

you should play the lottery.

of the four ford's Ive had with 6 disc indash players, all four of them had broke before any of them hit 100k.
 
Hey 3G in a huge factory is a gift from god where I work. Don't be hatin! lol

I wasn't worried about the changer. I honestly don't think I have one CD in my house now that I think of it. Been using iPods/my iPhone for 5+ years now. That headunits the first mod if I do get the car going and make it a daily.
Thanks for the tips joegr, I assumed the clock spring had all that going through it. Maybe the spring is fine though, that airbag light only flashes sometimes when im tilt/telescoping the wheel. I plan on gutting the interior to give it a deep clean, ill check the wiring when I do so. Ill probably pull the cluster and replace ALL the bulbs while its out. Never been in a car that actually had indicator lights die. Illumination quite common, but not indicators like that.

Did they change the blinker sound from the 1st gens to the 2nd gens? I swear I remember my mom and step dads having this nice luxurious click noise, almost like a block of wood knock sound, whereas this 03 just has the typical Ford click. (Sounds stupid, I know)

I remember the first LS we had in the family, my step dad reserved and bought a 2000 Sport V8 as soon as they came out, he worked at Wixom and built them too. Got rid of it weeks later because in roughly a month of ownership it was at the service center in the dealer more than we had it in the driveway. Uncle had one a few years back, nothing but issues, friends have had and sold them. I just can't shake my love for these things though. Oh my mom bought one years ago too, it was a 2000 I think, left her stranded on the side of the road numerous times. Sheesh. That thing was a problem child right from the test drive though.

Anywho, I didn't really work on it today engine wise, but I did yank the headlights off and wet sand/polish them. Night and day difference, they weren't "terrible" before, but it bugged me. Hazy headlights are so fugly.
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, is the window "regulator" the window motor?
 
No but you can order one regulator with or without the motor.
Motor is transferable, unless it's shot also.

Dorman brand from RockAuto works fine, just a little cuzing going in.
 
The window motors very rarely fail. You almost certainly just need the regulator. Dorman seems to be okay for these, but I would pay a little more and get it locally. Then when it does fail you can take it back and get another one that day (lifetime warranty).
 
The very early LSes had the ticking-clock blinker sound. My springish-built 2000 had Ford's normal click.
 
if you get the dorman regulator, don't over-tighten the nuts on the glass studs.
 
This was a good read! Curious to see what else it needs, keep track of your costs along the way.

Coil cover bolts are M5x.80 pitch - my local "ace" had just enough in stock to replace all my stock stripped ones.

Depending on the condition of your wiper cowl seals, running no covers may present future problems with water dripping onto the motor. If the coilpacks seal the plug wells good though you are also probably safe. You can pick up new covers on ebay or a local yard I bet. Should you decide to run them
 
This is the last time, I promise.

Coilpack
coilpack.jpg

COP
COP.jpg

coilpack.jpg


COP.jpg
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm not too worried about the window, honestly my main reason to fix it would be to get the windows tinted. (I think they gotta roll them down a bit?)

My biggest concern aside from getting it road worthy is the HVAC system blowing but not actually putting any air out of any vents on any setting. He said they put in a brand new blower motor.

And as for the "COP" :) covers, I'll definitely be ordering some. I didn't realize that could be an issue, and I don't even want to give the chance for something to happen.
 
So I finally got my garage cleaned up, (been long overdue) and pulled the LS in. She revved just fine, well fine as can be with 8 worn out COP's and Bosch plugs. I got on it a bit in my driveway it was nice.

But then a coil or two came loose and she was running on 6 or 7 cylinders but still chuggin along lol!

I need a new taillight now too, I'm pissed. Backed up an inch too far and knicked the corner of my work bench and busted a large chunk of the red lens on the passenger side. Live and learn, oh well.

Also have no power steering. Looked in the reservoir and there's no fluid. Gonna have to find that leak and see what the hells up. That's not terrible though, I've driven plenty of cars without power steering just fine. But it will be fixed sooner than later.

I'll run that test and post back the results.
 
So running that test just eventually shows me a fully lit up display on the DTC screen. Tried it two times, it shows the little fan speed indicator and I can hear various doors opening and closing and then the whole screen illuminates.
 
The actuators should be good then. It could be that they are disconnected from the doors or that ...

Oh wait. You said they replaced the blower motor. I wonder if they used aftermarket and accidentally (easy to do) wired it backwards? It will make as much noise, but it would hardly move any air.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1008.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
That would be awesome if that's all it is.

The air that I could feel coming out of the vents was ice cold so the AC works. And it seems as if whatever adjusts the airflow to each section works, because when it's on vent only, I can feel a tad bit of air through the dash vents. When I move it to floor or something, air stops coming out of the dash vents. (I didn't look to see where the floor vents are to feel, but you get my point)
 
While I'm on here, are there any recommended spark plugs and coil brands I should go with? I'm gonna try and get the plugs tomorrow and swap those out and then next thing would be to order the coils so I have a full new set.
 
Had to go on ebay and check where my taillight was sent to lol. Just sold one the other day then read this and thought maybe. But hell nice find I'd be tempted to grab that since I'm not to far away
 
While I'm on here, are there any recommended spark plugs and coil brands I should go with? I'm gonna try and get the plugs tomorrow and swap those out and then next thing would be to order the coils so I have a full new set.

Economy * May not meet OE Standards *

NGK 7090 BKR5EGP G-Power Plug
SKU: #BKR5EGP
ITEM : # NGK7090
BRAND : NGK // http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9309



or ... (meets OE Standards)

NGK 6569 FR5AP-11E Laser Platinum Plug
SKU: #FR5AP-11E
ITEM: # NGK6569
BRAND: NGK // http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9763



or ... (exceeds OE Standards)

NGK 5464 BKR5EIX-11 IX Iridium Plug
SKU: #BKR5EIX-11
ITEM: # NGK5464
BRAND: NGK // http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9311



Use OEM coils DG529's
 
I'm gonna try and get the plugs tomorrow and swap those out and then next thing would be to order the coils so I have a full new set.

you shouldn't replace your plugs then replace the coils later... other than it being a huge waste of time by removing and replacing the coils twice, they really should be replaced at the same time.
 

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