My $400 LS Registry

exactly.

nobody go out and replaces the rear toe links because they are bored...

people notice that the car is wandering all over the road because those parts are worn out with ripped boots and destroyed joints. at the point you notice that there is a problem, its pretty bad and even the cheapest Ebay parts in the world would feel better than the old and busted that comes out.

just because a cheap aftermarket part is better than a old broke factory part, doesn't make it an upgrade, it just makes it new.
 
They replaced worn out factory parts with new aftermarket parts.
If they had replaced worn out factory parts with new factory parts, they would have seen even more improvement. I've had these cars since new. If you keep everything good, it's like driving on rails around tight turns.

So very true, for instance when I redid the entire suspension on my 01 Sport, although not all parts where terribly worn, I went from old to new and this included the Deeza non-passive rear steering toe adjust linkages. Included was new shocks all around w/ Eibach Pro lowering springs, Moog sway bar end links, Control arms and multiple fresh hardware and of course this all afterwards made the whole car drive differently and tighter.

Tight like a go-cart ... but it was far from anything to do with just swapping from passive to non-passive rear steering, it's as you said, going from old worn out parts to new fresh parts.

+1






Brian,
there is no harm in going with some aftermarket non-passive steering links, upgrade or not, it's a replacement. The OEM's are a little pricey compared to the most latest RimmerBro's non-passive from the UK. If you're looking to save a little in dollars these are a good bet. The Deeza's are essentially the same units, just can't get them anymore. You mentioned it's just a great winter beater for ya so why bother sticking the expensive stuff on it as you said. Makes sense to me also. The Rimmerbro's will serve you justice, direct fit, ships fast and they look good. I'd hit them with some clear rattle can though once they are installed just to assist a little with keeping the rust off.

With respect to which is better, passive or non-passive rear steer. Of course the OEM rear steer as little as it may be, is truly better. The car was designed to flex a little around the corners and it assist in bringing the rear end around with the front in smooth turns. A great concept and appreciated by many, however going to non-passive steering is also a personal preference and the difference is so small you'd perhaps never know it. A member on here once quoted, "Not enough Racecar" which always held true with myself.

Going to non-passive rear steer linkages will indeed feel tighter but it's as already mentioned due to simply going from an old worn part with too much play to a new part with no play. If you were to stick the OEM passive steer linkages in there, it would also feel more tight around corners, simply as above because your replacing a worn out part.

I say give the RimmerBro units a go ... several of us have gone this route and they work great. Less $$$ spend also.
I have them in my 04 LSE and it's just fine.

Do note that all this rear toe adjust in/out flexing in the rear does not resolve body roll. You'd have to replace some springs and shocks to get that "upgraded" feel.

... btw, Sports shocks are hard to come by these days. That's not to say there aren't a few sets laying around on some shelves someplace.
 
Gonna place my order for the RimmerBros non-passives Friday. Too many bills this week beforehand.

So as much as I don't want to do the shocks, I really think I'm gonna need to. Don't know if it's just a coincidence but now that I have the subs in there, the bad shocks are really shining.
When you guys say the replacements are junk, what is so bad about them? I'm most curious because if I wasn't mechanically inclined and paid Firestone $1400 and some odd dollars to replace mine and they rode like sh*t, id throw a fit.
 
the problem with almost all of the non OEM shock options is that they are way too soft for the LS and kinda feel "floatly" for lack of a better word, totally destroys the cars great handling.
 
the problem with almost all of the non OEM shock options is that they are way too soft for the LS and kinda feel "floatly" for lack of a better word, totally destroys the cars great handling.

Ah I see what you mean. That really sucks. Im not gonna replace mine, the bounciness I was feeling was from a low tire. Aired it back up the other day and most of that bounciness went away. (First car ive owned in a long time that doesn't have the TPMS. Made me realize how lazy technology made me!) Gonna check it for the next few days and see how severe the leak is, don't think its that bad, I might just throw a little fix-a-flat in it if its just a bead leak. I don't see any screws or punctures.

Anyways, just dropping by to say hi, and the cars doing great. Right up to about 1000 miles on it now.

Its god awful in the rain trying to accelerate and keep traction though, thats for damn sure. Some new tires might have be in order. Snow is gonna suck...
 
So, right rear wheel speed sensor died. Caused ABS light, Trac control light, CHECK ADVANCETRAC message, and sometimes ETC FAILSAFE along with a check engine light. New sensor from Advance Auto Parks fixed it.

I have another question, keep forgetting to post. My rain-sensing wiper sensor came off the windshield some time ago. I miss the auto wipers. What kind of adhesive should I use to reattach it? And theres that clear "goop" looking stuff on the "lens" that goes between the lens and windshield, that has to stay on there, right? Or was that the old adhesive?
 
It has to optically bond to the windshield one way or another. There can be no air gap.
 
Ok so that gel stuff needs to have a perfect deal against the windshield, makes sense. Any tips on how to re-adhere it though? What kind of glues or something would withdstand the hot/cold cycles, and set fairly quick? (I suppose I could duct tape it in place firmly while the adhesive cures) I have some of that JB-Stik or whatever it's called like the JB Weld putty, wonder if that would be good enough. I could make a square to go along the outskirts of the sensor housing and then tape it in place while it cures.
 
Had an odd issue tonight. Been getting used to leaving the climate controls on auto, and the auto seat temperature as well.

Driving home, I hit the seat buttons to switch it into auto mode, and was driving for some time and realized my seat was still cold. I hit the heat button, and the 3 lights came on, and immediately went back off, about as fast as my finger let off the button. Same for the cooling button. Passenger side worked fine.

Got home, turned the car off, then turned the key back on (didn't start it) but the seat seemed to work fine after that. (I pressed the cooling button, and it stayed on for the 30 seconds or so that I let it)

Hope the seat isn't dying on me!
 
...Hope the seat isn't dying on me!

Check and make sure the seat filter isn't clogged. It should be replaced if it isn't still white. They should be replaced every so often.

It's possible that the duct to the seat back came loose, but it wouldn't have reconnected itself.

It's likely that the ducts in the seat bottom are crushed and blocking air flow. The early ones had that problem. There is actually a TSB out on it. It says to disassemble the seat cushion and cut the existing duct out. Then replace it with the newer design one.
Here's some pictures of the newer one: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...leather-How-To&p=927925&viewfull=1#post927925
 
BTW Bryan, when you get those rear toe adjust linkages in, you gotta go for a four wheel alignment immediately. You'll never dail them in straight by eye or shoe string, you may get close but it's not worth wearing out a set of rear tires in an afternoon. Kid ya not!
 
Check and make sure the seat filter isn't clogged. It should be replaced if it isn't still white. They should be replaced every so often.

It's possible that the duct to the seat back came loose, but it wouldn't have reconnected itself.

It's likely that the ducts in the seat bottom are crushed and blocking air flow. The early ones had that problem. There is actually a TSB out on it. It says to disassemble the seat cushion and cut the existing duct out. Then replace it with the newer design one.
Here's some pictures of the newer one: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...leather-How-To&p=927925&viewfull=1#post927925

You know, now that you say that, as far as I can remember, my back does NOT get hot or cold. Checked my filters when I picked the car up, they were fine. Doubt they'd be shot/clogged after only a thousand miles of use. Will check though, thanks for the suggestion and link.

BTW Bryan, when you get those rear toe adjust linkages in, you gotta go for a four wheel alignment immediately. You'll never dail them in straight by eye or shoe string, you may get close but it's not worth wearing out a set of rear tires in an afternoon. Kid ya not!

Oh absolutely. I won't do a job like that unless I have the day off and can get right to the shop for an alignment. Honestly though, i'd bet that I could get them MORE in alignment with the replacements then they are now! My rear passenger tire has some maaaad camber angle! :) Hate driving on the road when its wet, and hitting those rubber lines where they fill in cracks. Its like ice when the rear is out of alignment.
 
Sounds like you may need some tires soon also.
There isn't any camber adjustments in the rear. The rear only has toe in and out adjust.
 
So I'm getting a random airbag light. It's related to a seat airbag and I'm 100% sure it's the drivers seat. I turned off easy entry so the seat won't move every time I get in and out and it typically stays off. If I adjust the seat, it comes on. I pulled the code but can't remember off the top of my head, but I know it's related to the seat.

Anyone else have this issue ever, I know the Explorers usually need to have the connector unplugged clean and reconnected to fix the same issue, should I try that on the LS?
 
Count out the blinks on the airbag light. 3-6 is usually a clockspring and a 3-2 is usually the under seat connector.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...inally-hit-me!&p=300234&viewfull=1#post300234

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...yyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!&p=60008&viewfull=1#post60008 <-- pics



Watch the airbag light flash when you first start the car - it normally comes on then 3 seconds later (after passing all the tests) turns off. If it finds a problem with the test it will flash a 2 digit code:

"When the ignition is cycled (turned off and then on), the air bag indicator will remain lit for six seconds and then go out. If an SRS fault exists, the air bag indicator will then flash the two-digit LFC associated with that fault. The air bag indicator will flash the LFC five times, then remain illuminated for the rest of the key cycle. The RCM will also communicate the current and historical DTCs through the data link connector (DLC), using the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester. If the air bag indicator does not function, and the system detects a fault condition, the RCM will signal the instrument cluster to activate an audible chime. The chime is a series of five sets of five tone bursts. If the chime is heard, the SRS and the air bag indicator require repair.
LFCs are prioritized. If two or more faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed. "


For example a flash of 3 pause 6 means:
DTC:B1995 LFC:36 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Resistance Low

...
 
Yeah 3 2 & 3 6 just indicates there is a short or open somewhere and can be in either under the seat connector or in the clock spring itself I suppose.
 
The code I read was b2295. I will try to get the light to come on when I leave work and read the airbag light flashing code. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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