Mark VIII T45 swap?

What exactly do you mean by "wire it for the manual setup"? I still have the brake switch connected as normal, and my brake lights are all working properly. Are there wires for the brake switch that went down to the trans that I need to splice together? Or are these some wires under the dash? I won't be running any kind of clutch interlock. I never liked the idea of pressing the clutch in and loading up the thrust bearing without any oil pressure. Plus I always check double-check to make sure it is out of gear before I start the car anyway, so if it turns out to be something that needs to be turned off in the tune, that's no big deal. If it does turn out that way though, it will have to wait a few weeks cause at the moment, this car is my only transportation.
 
What you normally do is take the BOO which they have renamed again BPP (brake pedal postion) switch out of the circuit and move it over to the clutch switch. What happens when you just leave it hooked up is it burns up the starting circuit because now there is constant voltage to it where as the DTR sensor was only there in park/neutral with the key on. Your relays will start to stick and burn up thus the high signal CEL. The DTR should be completely remove from your vehicle also, it's not needed. I take it you have a EVTM CD for your car. If so take a look at the Mustang for the same year and compare the starting system, then you will see what I'm talking about. Yes I may be able to turn off the CEL but that won't stop the problem.
 
Well the starting problem doesn't exist anymore. It turns out it was just a weak battery. I charged it, and it has been fine ever since. I will look up the wiring for a mustang and see what the differences are, but I remember when I did the swap on my T45 cougar that it was just a matter of connecting the 2 wires that were connected in P/N and it worked fine. Right now, on the 2 wires that I connected, there is no voltage except in the start position.

I'm not sure how you are saying to connect the BOO switch to the clutch switch. Wouldn't that turn the brake lights on whenever I hit the clutch, and not when I hit the brakes? It's kind of irrelevant anyway since I don't even have a clutch position switch, or even room under the dash to install it if I did. The ECM extension harness goes right on that side of the clutch pedal, and it would be a lot of work to move it.

Oh, also one minor thing, traction control isn't turned off. That alone isn't worth pulling the chip back out and sending it out, but if it turns out I do need a reburn for this code, that's another thing to fix at the same time.
 
Yeah, .. are these code problems OBD-2 only??

I also thought if you left the mlps sensor connected, it would solve code problems.. ??

This hearing that the swap throws codes is bad news. I thought all this was already figured. I still don't understand how it throws CEL codes. I'll have to re-read what Lonnie's saying maybe.

Please let me know any info on avoiding and fixing codes, -- For OBD-2.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I'm running back and forth from town and didn't read your post throughly, just jumping on and trying to answer quickly before heading back out the door. The BOO input to the EEC is taken out of the circuit by the chip. It stays physically connected for your brake lights. Before it was used to unlock the TC. What I thought you were doing was taking the 10 amp circuit from the starting system straight to the DTC bypassing everything to make it start. But from what it sounds you have it wired correctly at that side and it should work, as you pointed out. Just went through this with an 00 Crown Vic also, I did the wiring. The clutch switch looks almost and works identical to the BOO switch. So taking that setup and transposing it to the clutch switch is what I meant. Not physically moving it. But since you don't have room for it then move on. Now is the DTC still installed? If it is see if you can unplug it without any problems with the starting and if the CEL goes away. If you do have problems then you have two choices, rotate the the DTR to Park or Neutral position and lock it there. Or trace back the wires to see what is still supplying power and remove it. Something is still sending power there and the EEC is picking it up. I'll look into seeing if I can add that code to the data base also.

Yes this is an OBD II thing, an EEC IV would have 668 but then I've never had one throw that before either.

As for the traction control, that can not be turned off in the programming for the Marks. Just like the Tbirds they use a seprate computer for them. I've tried using those switches that are sold for the Mustangs that default to off and then you have to turn the traction control on when you want it but of the 2 I tried neither worked. There was a thread on the LOD board I think that someone found that if you remove one of the wires to the tc computer it shuts it off without causing problems with the abs but you'd have to look for that one, it was long ago.
 
The code is still there, even after fixing the starting issue. As for leaving the MLPS connected and in park or neutral, that isn't an option for me cause when I made the harness to relocate my ECM, I didn't include the wires for the auto trans functions, so there aren't even any wires for that going to the computer. So how it could be picking up voltage, I have no idea.

That's fine about the TC, I didn't know it couldn't be turned off. I'll just keep doing like I have been doing and turn it off every time I start the car, no big deal.

Also, does anyone know what I would have to do to get the DIC to stop throwing that gear selector error message?
 
No problem. That particular CEL can not be added to the software but the set point limits were able to be added. So all I have to do is change the limits and that code will no longer show up. When you get a chance send me your chip and I'll make the changes for you.
 
OK, will do. Right now, it's my only means of transportation, but my Dad's going to be giving me his Subaru SVX within the next couple weeks, so once I get that, I'll send the chip back to you. Since I'm going to have to send it back, I might as well have you change it for the cobra intake that I got a great deal on 2 days after I got the chip from you.

Also, do you know what I need to do to get that "gear indicator error" message to stop showing up on the DIC?
 
Blenderhead said:
OK, will do. Right now, it's my only means of transportation, but my Dad's going to be giving me his Subaru SVX within the next couple weeks, so once I get that, I'll send the chip back to you. Since I'm going to have to send it back, I might as well have you change it for the cobra intake that I got a great deal on 2 days after I got the chip from you.

Also, do you know what I need to do to get that "gear indicator error" message to stop showing up on the DIC?
Click to expand...

What gear indicator error?
 
When I start the car, the gear indicator in the instrument cluster initially lights up neutral, then after a couple seconds it lights up drive, then after a couple seconds it goes off and the info center in the center of the dash, the one that tells you your gas mileage and everything, shows a message "gear indicator error". It only does it when the car is first started, and then I hit reset and it goes away until I turn the car off and start it again. It isn't a major problem, its just one of those things I would like to get rid of if possible.

And kustomizingkid, yes the SVX is awesome. Body roll is just non-existant in that thing, and it corners better than any other car I have ever driven. Plus winter is coming and AWD donuts are oh so much fun. The only thing it needs...is a 5-speed! I think I must have some kind of problem.
 
Blenderhead... what are you doing about the lights in the middle of the cluster?

It would drive me nuts to have the auto trans stuff in the middle of the cluster when I had a manual.
 
Eventually I'll make me some different gauge faces, and then the center part there will be covered up. I briefly though of trying to put a contact in the shifter for each individual gear, and then change them to R and 1-5 and have it light up what gear I was in, but I decided that was entirely too much work for a novelty like that, so I'll just have them disabled and covered up.
 
I have a buddy who will do it for me for free. I have a set of scott's gauge faces in my 91 cougar, and they are very nice, but if I can get some decent looking ones for free, then I'll go that route.
 
I've not run into that issue before. I can't say if the changes will do anything or not for the message center. They do take some input from the PCM since it is part of the SCP network of the 10 computers in these cars. I can't say if the selector or the DTR have a direct input to the message center. That would take some research to figure out.

I know that the cars without HIDs and then you install them you will get the fault on the message center and there's no way to get rid of it.
 
i have a guy by me that sells new 07 mustang 3650 trans with hyd tob for 650.00 is this the way to go
 
When I get some time, I'll look into exactly what from the trans acts as an input to the DIC. I never thought that would be something that would go away from the tune, I just didn't expect that it would be a problem for it either. I thought I would just have the dash showing the car always in neutral or something like that. I'll figure it out, I was just hoping someone had already done the figuring for me.

Just out of curiousity Lonnie, how many T45 gen2 marks do you know to be in existence?
 
What was your reasoning for not leaving the MLPS on the car locked into park?

The two cars I've seen converted both used this method...
 
It never occurred to me to leave the MLPS hooked up. When I did the T45 swap on my 94 cougar, I just connected the 2 wires for park/neutral to complete the starting circuit, and I never had a problem, so I figured it would be the same on the Mark. Also, I would prefer not to have an MLPS dangling somewhere on the underside of the car. If need be, I can extend the wires and stash the MLPS somewhere under the dash, but I would rather just wire it to fix the problem if possible.
 
Blenderhead said:
When I get some time, I'll look into exactly what from the trans acts as an input to the DIC. I never thought that would be something that would go away from the tune, I just didn't expect that it would be a problem for it either. I thought I would just have the dash showing the car always in neutral or something like that. I'll figure it out, I was just hoping someone had already done the figuring for me.

Just out of curiousity Lonnie, how many T45 gen2 marks do you know to be in existence?
Click to expand...


I've done 4 Gen IIs and 9 Gen Is myself. I know of 6 others that have been done. A few of these were also a 03/04 Cobra engine swap that I did.
 
So how much does this swap really cost? Is it worth it to have it done or is it better to leave the auto trans in? The manual swap sounds like it would make the mark a potential cts killer. And Iam very interested in seeing a video of one of these manualmarks in action.
 
If you take your time and look for some good deals, you can do the swap pretty cheap. I have under $1000 into my swap. The real killer is the time it takes to do the swap. Between making the extension harness, having the dash in and out of the car twice, relocating where harnesses go through the firewall, making the shifter extension, making the hydraulic line and slave cylinder brackets, swapping all the parts out, etc, I probably have about 30-40 hours in the swap. If you can do all the work yourself, it is worth it. If you have to pay someone to do it for you, it isn't. Also, while the 5-speed makes the car a lot more fun to drive, I don't think it actually made the car any faster than it was with the auto in it. It pulls real nice through 1st and 2nd, but then 3rd and up don't feel like they pull as hard as it did in the auto. Of course by the time you hit 3rd, you are already doing 80, so on the street it really helps, but I think on a track it probably wouldn't make much of a difference. I'll find out when the track re-opens if the car is any faster. Only problem is it will also have 3.73s by that time, so it won't be a truly fair comparison.
 
Like blender said i also think the swap is worth it if you do it yourself. my swap was much more costly then his thow i paid 1500 for trans (t56) 600 for a custom 4 inch alumaum driveshaft and anther 300 for a new Mustang flywheel and stage 1 spec clutch and pressure plate. then anthor 100 in mics parts like the pedal and other small things along the way. that is not counting the kooks headers and the new exuest i put in. i do feel a gain in proformance thow my mark will pull real hard through 4 gear an easy over 100 mph if i had to guess i would say it is a high 13 sec car but i have not gone to the track so i don't know. in in spring my mark will also have new gears. so i will not know the exact gains. and yes if you supercharged it i think it could run with a CTS-V with stock gears and my t56 i have blow away a bunch of mustang gt's aready.
 
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