Looking at a 98 LSC tomorrow

I just bought a 104k 98 lsc and I've got some experience now to add.

These cars seem to have certain things that wear out quicker than other cars.

For example, on all my other fords and mustangs, my ball joints were good to 200k..car was still tight.

I get this 104k car home, and realize every ball joint in my front end is tore up...car vibrates like hell and and makes noises on bumps...no biggie I do my own work.

sunroof tracks are tore up and some of the electronics were goofed up too, which I've fixed....the rest of the car is amazing, but I'd def be wary of ball joints, sunroof, and airbags at 100k
 
Yes, ball joints, sway bar links, strut rod bushings, air ride, toe link compensators and brakes are usually every 50-60k on these cars.

Electronic gremlins are: Power seats, window motors, sunroofs, VCRM, IAC, TPS, Crank angle sensor, neon, door ajar sensors and steering wheel tilt/telescopic are the more common issues.
Seats and windows are usually worn motors. Sunroofs like to eat track related stuff. VCRM/IAC/Crank just wear out and stop working. Door sensors need lube. Neon is 90% ballast. Steering wheel tilt is usually cause the switch fails.
 
Yeah w/100k thats a good price for how nice it appears to be...But as all others have said check the suspension..I do spy a missing windshield washer button. If you can get someone to pry out one from a jy or parts car they do come out. Just gotta be gentle. Had to do that to mine cause my steering wheel was seized on.
 
v8only said:
I just bought a 104k 98 lsc and I've got some experience now to add.

These cars seem to have certain things that wear out quicker than other cars.

For example, on all my other fords and mustangs, my ball joints were good to 200k..car was still tight.

I get this 104k car home, and realize every ball joint in my front end is tore up...car vibrates like hell and and makes noises on bumps...no biggie I do my own work.

sunroof tracks are tore up and some of the electronics were goofed up too, which I've fixed....the rest of the car is amazing, but I'd def be wary of ball joints, sunroof, and airbags at 100k
Click to expand...

I just went to look at it today. It looks just as good as it does in the pics. Only exterior flaw is that someone must have backed it up into something because there is a "spider" crack in the paint on the rear bumper. It looks very minor, however. Other than that, virtually no dings, no dents, paint is nice and glossy.

Interior: Center console door tray a little funky. Power window button on driver side has become detached. The seat will not elevate but moves front/back which is good. Window track on driver's door sounds loose. Everything else in the interior is on par with age/mileage. No tears or severe cracking in seats. Sunroof track is perfect.

Test drive: Car is as strong as could be. No weird drivetrain noises (except for slight squeal of belt; pretty sure it's from sitting around a lot). Heard a small clunk in the front. Looked at ball joints and other bushings and looked like they've never been changed. All these things are minor and I can fix myself.

All in all, I loved the car. As long as it has a clear Carfax, body is pristine shape, good running drivetrain, it's enough for me.

I am in the process of getting it now. Wish me luck tomorrow to finalize the purchase.

LaserSVT said:
Yes, ball joints, sway bar links, strut rod bushings, air ride, toe link compensators and brakes are usually every 50-60k on these cars.

Electronic gremlins are: Power seats, window motors, sunroofs, VCRM, IAC, TPS, Crank angle sensor, neon, door ajar sensors and steering wheel tilt/telescopic are the more common issues.
Seats and windows are usually worn motors. Sunroofs like to eat track related stuff. VCRM/IAC/Crank just wear out and stop working. Door sensors need lube. Neon is 90% ballast. Steering wheel tilt is usually cause the switch fails.
Click to expand...

ALLL that are common issues?? Now you're scaring me.

sbcaprice305 said:
Yeah w/100k thats a good price for how nice it appears to be...But as all others have said check the suspension..I do spy a missing windshield washer button. If you can get someone to pry out one from a jy or parts car they do come out. Just gotta be gentle. Had to do that to mine cause my steering wheel was seized on.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I will be searching for a few interior pieces soon. I'd like to change out the steering wheel too because the top is worn pretty good. Yeah, that washer button was missing too, among other minor things.
 
sounds good...

yea those are all common things...my seat motor is tired, my sunroof track is busted, my door ajar message wouldn't go away until i fixed that, my suspension as mentioned has issues,....all minor stuff...we're paying $3k for a car that was $40k just over ten years ago...I have no complaints
 
Yeah it's one hell of a depreciation.

Now, how do I stop that "auto adjustment" of the seat and steering column when I turn the car on/off? I don't think I could get used to that and it seems like it's wear and tear for the seat motor.
 
v8only said:
hit the button on the door panel that says off
Click to expand...
Wrong.

You go into "Drivers Settings" and cycle it to "Easy Entry" then press the RESET button to turn it off. That menu allows for drivers glide, auto windows, reverse mirrors and some other settings as well.
 
interesting..I'll have to try that...For me the off button worked just fine
 
BAD97LSC said:
97 and 98 dont have an off button for these features on the door panel, thats 93-96
Click to expand...


I could and possibly may be completely mistaken, and we're talking about two different things, however my 98 has two different settings on the door panel, for 2 different drivers settings. Those two buttons control everything from the seat to the steering wheel setting.

Above those two buttons is a large button that says OFF.

I push the OFF button and my seat and steering wheel stop re calibrating every time I close and open the door.
 
maybe your right, shows how much i use the door panel, i go into the message display and have all my functions shut off permanently.
 
I didn't know you could do that, and I'm going to do that tomorrow...I'm always hitting those buttons on accident anyhow.

BTW, I like your wheels...I'm looking for an all black set...are those mustang or mark viii bolt pattern? Where did you get them?
 
The reason yours worked (or didnt work I guess) when you hit the memory OFF button is because someone turned the feature off. If the memory seat button is off all of the drivers and car settings are still stored for that off position as well as for memory one and two.

For instance you could have it set so that when you turn the memory off it would still honk the horn when arming the alarm, mirrors would drop in reverse and have the auto window turned off.
Then you can have all new settings stored for the seat memories.


Also of not is that if you are in reverse you can manually move the mirrors and once you go back to drive they will return to their previous position.
Its the little things that always impress me in these cars.
 
Well, I'm jumping through the loops with this small dealership that has the car. To make the story short, my bank is financing 50% of it and I'm paying the difference. So basically the bank has already done their part and sent them the lien info for the title, etc; the process that most banks/car dealers go through.

But hopefully, I can finally bring the car home tonight and give it a nice wash and do all the routine maintenance that it's probably overdue for.

I'm optimistic but I always lean on the realistic side of things.
 
Magnetico said:
Well, I'm jumping through the loops with this small dealership that has the car. To make the story short, my bank is financing 50% of it and I'm paying the difference. So basically the bank has already done their part and sent them the lien info for the title, etc; the process that most banks/car dealers go through.

But hopefully, I can finally bring the car home tonight and give it a nice wash and do all the routine maintenance that it's probably overdue for.

I'm optimistic but I always lean on the realistic side of things.
Click to expand...
Change the plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter and air filter. Get some MAF cleaner and GENTLY clean the MAF element. Spray just a little, dont hose it down. And dont touch the sensor inside the post in the MAF.

Use 5w30 oil and a Motorcraft FL820S filter. Dont get a Fram or generic filter. Fram is fine for the fuel and air filter though.


Make sure to look at the upper and lower ball joints. If the boots are cracked then replace the control arms. Rock Auto is a great and cheap place to get them. If still on air you need the Mark UCA but can save money and get the t-bird LCA. It has stiffer bushings so I prefer them anyway.
 
I finally got the car last night and drove it 80 miles home. Nice, firm ride. I love it. Don't know why some guys are changing over to springs.

I noticed a little hesitation at first so maybe new plugs must be in order. Also have a loud belt squeak. I'm thinking it is a worn tensioner pulley as the belt itself doesn't look too bad.

These are just the things that need some immediate attn but there are a few gremlins as well. I think the heater core has been bypassed (I haven't looked in the engine bay yet). I have no heat to help defog the windows in the morning. The rear defrost also seems a bit weak. Maybe this car had tint a long time ago and the def lines were damaged during removal. A bunch of other little things too but over time I will get them fixed.
 
Magnetico said:
I finally got the car last night and drove it 80 miles home. Nice, firm ride. I love it. Don't know why some guys are changing over to springs.

I noticed a little hesitation at first so maybe new plugs must be in order. Also have a loud belt squeak. I'm thinking it is a worn tensioner pulley as the belt itself doesn't look too bad.
Click to expand...

While the car is running, take some WD-40 with the red straw and spray a little behind the pulley. If that's it, the noise will stop. I say this because sometimes the water pump can be going bad and sound the same way. WD-40 will let you know for sure that it is the pulley but it's not a fix.
 
Magnetico said:
I have no heat to help defog the windows in the morning. The rear defrost also seems a bit weak. Maybe this car had tint a long time ago and the def lines were damaged during removal. A bunch of other little things too but over time I will get them fixed.
Click to expand...

Blend door.

You can stick your hand up behind the dash and flip the arm over to get temporary heat.
 
Thanks guy. Also forgot to mention. The trans slams into gear when I put it into reverse. Is this an accumulator problem?
 
Magnetico said:
I finally got the car last night and drove it 80 miles home. Nice, firm ride. I love it. Don't know why some guys are changing over to springs.

I noticed a little hesitation at first so maybe new plugs must be in order. Also have a loud belt squeak. I'm thinking it is a worn tensioner pulley as the belt itself doesn't look too bad.

These are just the things that need some immediate attn but there are a few gremlins as well. I think the heater core has been bypassed (I haven't looked in the engine bay yet). I have no heat to help defog the windows in the morning. The rear defrost also seems a bit weak. Maybe this car had tint a long time ago and the def lines were damaged during removal. A bunch of other little things too but over time I will get them fixed.
Click to expand...

firm ride? Really, on airbags?? man my airbag system just floats....it's def not bouncy, but it's far from anything that I'd call firm....but then again I'm used to fox mustang with stiff non progressive rate springs that ride like ass...so maybe it would be considered firm to some?
 
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