Lincoln LS Drift Build

Nice work do they allow for much adjustments? .... here is the pan I have to use on my engine swap.

F76B7489-9BFD-419F-8DE6-6DF458F04270.jpeg


98794967-79C1-4891-B813-2BB1E1082BAA.jpeg
 
As I understand it, the engine he's using is a pushrod chibrolay out of a truck. Everybody knows you can buy a junkyard chibby and install a $39.95 cam from the internet and get at least 500 horsepower from it. Just check some of the dragrace forums. They do it all the time. ;)

KS
 
Cammerfe are you talking about me or SKM?

The part number for the pan is moroso 710-20138 it’s a made for the GTO
 
cammerfe said:
As I understand it, the engine he's using is a pushrod chibrolay out of a truck. Everybody knows you can buy a junkyard chibby and install a $39.95 cam from the internet and get at least 500 horsepower from it. Just check some of the dragrace forums. They do it all the time. ;)
Click to expand...

I'm a little disappointed that the internet lied to me, we were also hoping for 500 even out of his 6 litre, but I just got done helping a friend swap his heads, cam and a pair of long tubes and when he had it strapped to the rollers and had it tuned it was only making 480 at the wheels.

I guess it will motivate him to get going on stage two, he got another long block from a local yard another friend works at for a hair over $600 and now just has to get some rods and pistons before he gets the rest of what he needs for his LSA blower, then pretty sure hell be content once its over 650-700 (well at least until something in the rear end breaks...)
 
Just go over to Yellow Bullet. There are many stories of putting a junkyard chib LS engine, bought for $300, into something or other, and with nothing but changing the camshaft, it makes more than 500 horsepower and the 4000 pound car runs in the 9s. It must be true---it's on yellow bullet, put there by one of the 'Mullett Boys'. Just the name chibrolay has to be good for at least a couple of hundred horsepower.;)

KS
 
Sounds a little to redneck for me... I like a cleaner and more reliable install!
 
Who me??? Yup. Everything replaced but the sway bars. Still have those bushings to do when the weather warms up.

All 8 arms replaced with new Ford units. Shocks are Bilstein for 2002 Jag S-type. 2003 and later won't work due to different bottom mount. Used factory new springs ordered for the same Jag. Also ordered and installed "non-passive" aftermarket, (Jag supplier), toe links for the rear.

04_Sport_LS's Suspension thread

I still have alot of pics and documentation to add to the above thread. My time has been too divided over the last year. Also as mentioned in the above link... I'm back down hibernating in the basement again,,, doing more work.
 
What I like about SKM's rear upper arm design... is that it's 3-way adjustable. I wanted something like that,,, for dialing out the negative camber at the ball joint that causes the rear tire wear. But you would also need the 2 adjustments at the cradle to keep caster in spec. I actually thought about designing some sort of cam bolt for the upper arm mounts at the cradle... but that fell off the priority list a loooong time ago.

SKM,

By "prototype"... do you mean you're doing the mock up on the arms,,, then sending them out to be built by an aftermarket manufacturer???
 
Great work! I bet the handling is night and day difference!

I rebuilt my rear lower control arms with PowerFlex bushings. I used the "black" series which is 90% stiffer then stock. I have had the bushings installed in the control arms but haven't installed the arms yet since it has been so blistering cold out, hopefully here soon!

bushing.jpg
 
SKM said:
Is this an ls pan? If so I would love a part number!
Click to expand...



Oil pan is moroso part #
Mor-20138
Pick up tube #
Nal-12572654
Pan gasket #
Nal-12612350
Wimdage tray #
Nal-12558253
Dipstick #
Mor-25973
 
04_Sport_LS said:
What I like about SKM's rear upper arm design... is that it's 3-way adjustable. I wanted something like that,,, for dialing out the negative camber at the ball joint that causes the rear tire wear. But you would also need the 2 adjustments at the cradle to keep caster in spec. I actually thought about designing some sort of cam bolt for the upper arm mounts at the cradle... but that fell off the priority list a loooong time ago.

SKM,

By "prototype"... do you mean you're doing the mock up on the arms,,, then sending them out to be built by an aftermarket manufacturer???
Click to expand...


No I will be the ones actually making these. By prototyoe I mean I will try these and see if they are worthy for other people or if the prototype needs version 2. I also just kinda slapped these welds together since its my first set.
 
The decision was made to run a fuel cell after fitment of a racing seat over the stock tank was deemed impossible.

Cut out the wonky sheetmetal outline from the stock tank and will replace it with a straighter shot of metal.

Got my seat mounted with some practice in welding on the LS sheetmetal.

My custom qa1 rear coils arrived. Double adjustable with an 8k spring for the rear. We will see how that is for a starting point.

Next step is a custom sidepipe exhaust, and installation of the qa1 rear coils.

G0rUE0m.jpg

tb0mfb1.jpg

xbUr7uv.jpg
 
Edit- Answered my own question.
 
Last edited:
Made some removable pans so I can service my sidepipe exhaust and or driveshaft. 14 guage steel.
PViYb9Q.jpg

KRw7IJG.jpg



Got the exhaust routes through the frame rail. Cant wait to hear these sounds. Also picked up a t56.


LqVFaB5.jpg



ixpMNtW.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 159 (members: 0, guests: 159)
Back
Top