Lincoln LS 302

Lincoln LS

  1. marcredd

    marcredd Dedicated LVC Member

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    Dwiggy, 2 cents item that may not matter but then again it may if you were not aware.

    I just learned the hard way....brace your steering wheel or the clockspring may end up toast if the shaft is turned too far. Our steering wheels do not lock(thanks for the info joe). :)
     
  2. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Thanks for the compliment.

    The plan is to have a fully functioning Lincoln LS.

    I like your wheels!
     
  3. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Thanks, I did not know that.
     
  4. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Engine Mounts

    Engine mounts were pretty simple.

    Made some templates and had my fabricator make some 3/8" plates with a plasma torch and drill press.

    The metal was too heavy for my equipment to work with.

    I cut some steel tubing 1" to use as spacers between the block and mounting plates. Some of the old 302 head bolts were the perfect length to attach the plates to the block.

    As the old French lady in Paris says, "Voila, there it is!"

    MountPlates.jpg

    DriverPlate.jpg

    PassengerPlate.jpg
     
  5. Kumba

    Kumba Dedicated LVC Member

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    Nice to know that the mounting boss' on the block are at the right height for the engine mounts. Definitely makes them simpler since you don't have to bend anything. How much clearance did that give you around the k-member and oil-pan? And did you just use the stock LS mounts?

    This is making me want to go pick up an old Gen1 LSE with a blown engine/tranny and do a swap. Leave my Gen2 as the daily driver. Lord knows those 2000 Gen1's are becoming really inexpensive lately!
     
  6. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Hey K,


    I used 3/8" steel plate with 1" spacers.

    Also, I used the factory 2003 and newer mounts.

    I think I want to move the engine back about an inch after looking at it all. My shifter handle tilts backwards and the water pump is really close to the cooling fan.

    I'm going to pull out the 7 qt pan and try a regular front sump to see where it puts me on cross member clearance.


    Right now my driveshaft measurement is coming out to 65 1/4" flange to flange. That's almost 5 inches over stock.

    I'll keep you posted.
     
  7. Kumba

    Kumba Dedicated LVC Member

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    I see you are sticking with a front-sump. Do you think a fox-body pan won't clear the cross member? Or are you just wanting to avoid the whole dipstick fiasco? I know the Milodon fox-body 7qt pan has it's own dipstick for it that you can bend up and bolt wherever is convenient. But since you seem to be building this out of your spare-parts locker, I guess it comes down to if you have one in there or not. Maybe try fitting a stock fox-body pan and seeing how it clears?
     
  8. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Good question. I don't think the Fox pan will clear the cross member and if the engine sits too far back I have to worry about the shfiter alignment as well.

    I bought the 7qt pan and it fits where it is but it's not perfect.

    Sometimes you have to get the engine in the car to actually line stuff up.

    My friend is bringing over a Fox rear sump and a standard style front sump for me to play with. Hopefully, one of these pans will set the engine back 1" further without modification.
     
  9. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Update Transmission Diagram

    Received the components from Mouser today for my transmission wiring.

    Changed some of the values to actual available components.

    Added a 270 ohm resistor for DTR connection.

    Use the parking brake for "Park" instead of neutral on transmission.

    Man-U-Fake.jpg
     
  10. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Update

    Sorry about the delay. I just returned from work-related travel this week.

    Because I spent a lot of time with engine alignment I do not have any new build pictures for you.

    I flipped the transmission and engine mounts which shifted the entire engine back about four and a half inches.

    In this location both front sump and rear sump Ford oil pans do not work but the engine looks like it is positioned better.

    My options were either to modify the front sump oil pan or modify the cross member. I was going to modify the cross member until I found a modified oil pan for sale on E30v8.com.

    Based off of my measurements on a like oil pan, Matt’s modifications should work.

    Moving the engine back pushed the shift linkage back too far to line up with the console. I will shorten the support and linkage.

    Moving the engine back also allows me to lower it an inch making for a better alignment between the factory power steering reservoir and the Explorer PS pump. I might still have to use the Explorer reservoir - no verdict yet.

    The Explorer alternator fits perfectly and the higher amperage aftermarket is better than the factory LS’.

    I ran into one accessory problem with the AC compressor. The Explorer bracket placed the compressor directly against the hydraulic lines on the driver's side resulting in both cosmetic and clearance problems. Instead of shifting the engine to the right, using the Explorer compressor, and building new AC lines, I have decided to make a custom adapter and locate the factory LS compressor directly below the oil filter.

    The builds on the aluminum coil brackets are coming along nicely.

    This attached picture is from http://www.e30v8.com/. It looks like the SBF aftermarket in European cars is growing. Check out Matt's Site.


    I appreciate the interest!

    DSC05690.jpg
     
  11. Kumba

    Kumba Dedicated LVC Member

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    Looks like they fabbed up an after-market double-hump pan. Lowering the engine in the frame should help the CG a bit. You have any idea what the weight distribution to the wheels are now? Wonder how much that's changed. Still very curious to see the running result and how much functionality you retained through this.

    You are making a $3K Gen1 with a blown engine look more and more attractive. Just what I need, a second "project" car, along with the project RC helicopters, and my daily driver with it's unfinished project. Maybe I will just quiet working and wrench for fun.
     
  12. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Hey K. Thanks for keeping up with this project.

    Look at the picture again. It's a front sump pan that's been chopped.

    I'm not sure on the weight distribution. The engine is now very close to the firewall. As I said before, with aluminum heads and no hydraulic pump I'm under the factory LS8 weight.

    That was my plan.
    Hopefully, my experience will save others time and money in the end.
     
  13. De-marko

    De-marko Dedicated LVC Member

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    Keep up the good work!
     
  14. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    EGR Simulator

    Incase someone wants to fool their PCM.

    I decided not to worry about hooking up the EGR valve (duh).

    This should work because I compared the values to the test data on AllDataDiy.com.

    I found two variances of this circuit for EECIV and EECV vehicles with good results.

    This circuit is based off of EECV data.

    Thanks to:
    hotrodhigh at:
    http://www.hotrodhigh.ca/EGR.html

    and tccoa at:
    http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=133004

    EGR_Circuit.jpg
     
  15. Shredicus

    Shredicus Dedicated LVC Member

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    Wow man. Impressive work. The electronics make my head hurt @__@
     
  16. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Update

    The oil pan came in today. The engine is now in its final position.

    I took some pictures to show you the status.

    Notice the extra room above the plenum where the cross support is sitting.

    I decided to shift the engine a 1/2 inch to the passenger side and use the Explorer AC compressor so that I could use the factory belt.

    Everything clears nicely and there is more than enough room for the passenger side header.

    Also, I pulled apart the Explorer engine harness and ran all of the connectors to their places.

    Excuse the appearance please it will look nice when I prepare to start the car.

    Engine-Top.jpg

    Engine-Driver.jpg

    Engine-Passenger.jpg

    AC-Compressor.jpg
     
  17. Thirdworlddoug

    Thirdworlddoug Well-Known LVC Member

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    looks really good cant wait to see the final product and a videoooo
     
  18. msgtusmc

    msgtusmc Dedicated LVC Member

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    Real nice work, alot of hours! Everything is in the little details. Reminds me of my teens & twenties installing big blocks in compacts. No computers. Luv all the follow-ups! You might keep track of the fabrications to develope a kit for this effort as well as the electrical mods. We always kept a running log as a build reference.
     
  19. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    M,

    Thanks!

    I was remembering my teenage years when I had the urge to do this swap.

    Back then I wished that I had the money to do it right...

    ...now I just wish I had more time.

    I have everything down to every penny spent. It would truly be a quick swap for someone with pre-fabricated the parts.
     
  20. mcaccamise

    mcaccamise Active LVC Member

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    The Boss LS

    dwiggy,
    kudos to you for a verry comprehensive build looks like you have something you can be prowed of and reminds me of an old saying, If you can dream it you can build it good luck great project.
    Mike
     
  21. BlackLS06

    BlackLS06 Dedicated LVC Member

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    Lookin good.

    Any plans on dress up?

    Some new underdrive pulleys and some blue valve covers would really set things off. I really wish we could do more to dress up our engine bays with the AJ-V8.
     
  22. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Thanks!

    I decided to stick with Satin Black. I have a powder coated black TF intake plenum and I'll probably paint the valve covers Satin also.
     
  23. dwiggy

    dwiggy Active LVC Member

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    Shifter

    Thanks for the comments!

    I shortened the shift linkage 1 3/4 inches. The pictures are not painted so that you can see the modifications.

    I have pictures of the shifter in first, neutral, and reverse.

    The driveshaft is on order.

    ModShift.jpg

    ShiftFirst.jpg

    ShiftNeut.jpg

    ShiftRev.jpg
     
  24. MotorCityLS

    MotorCityLS LVC Member

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    What if you stripped down the whole car so that is is just the body. Then take a 2011 mustang gt and strip it sown of all of its parts and put it on the ls. so basically have the body and look of an ls but the power and tried and tested parts of the mustang. i understand not all of the parts will just bolt on to the LS but i feel like you see my point. the biggest advantage is you could just use the entire wiring harness and pcm, and all the other electrical parts of the mustang. that way you do not have all the confusion. it might take a little more labor but if you find a totaled mustang it might be cheaper. just my thoughts
     
  25. TDUB

    TDUB Dedicated LVC Member

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    If ifs and whats were candy and nuts we'd all have a Merry Christmas.... :rolleyes: Anything can be done with enough money but who's going to pony up the cash to do something like that?
     

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