Tru-Blu
Dedicated LVC Member
As mentioned in a previous thread, I said that I would try to put one of my new wheels on the LS to check the hub fit and see how it looked on the car. I should have grabbed one of our better cameras, but I didn't have much time and was scrambling to get it done and put the factory wheel back on. My Blackberry takes pretty crappy pics, so please excuse the lack of quality.
Here's the initial pic:
Overall, I'm happy with how it looks. Unfortunately, the factory lugs won't work with the wheels so I definitely have to do something different (I'm leaning towards the Gorillaz based on how tight the holes are). Fortunately, I did have a set of wheel locks I bought off of LloydRage handy to at least try mounting the wheel. The bad news was that the new wheel is recessed more for the lug holes, which means they have to be threaded deeper. I started running the locks down, and ended up getting quite a bit of resistance - which I'm attributing to dirt and/or corrosion. I didn't have time to be able to clean the studs, so I put the 4 locks on as best I could. The wheel still a little bit of a wobble to it as a result. When I carefully lowered the car back to the ground, I'm thinking that the wheel got some positive camber due to the locks not being able to run all the way down. After looking at the where the wheel was sitting, I was worried that it was sticking out too far. It wasn't flush, but it looked like it was slightly past the inside edge of the fender lip. I tried to take a couple pics that would show where the wheel was sitting in regard to the fender's lip or edge but again, the camera in my phone really sucks:
I'd feel better if I could have gotten the wheel completely snug. The hub opening on the new wheel is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the factory wheel. Is there anything I can do about that? I don't think I'd be able to find a hub-centric ring that thin.
Here's a shot of the factory wheel and new wheel side-by-side. You can see the Hankook is slightly shorter than the factory tire. Makes me wonder if I could have gotten away with a 255/40/19 (haven't checked rimsntires sizer yet). In terms of width, the 255 is 20mm wider than the factory 235, which equates to a little more than half an inch. I'm hoping that will be ok for the fronts, and I think the rears will be fine with that.
All in all, I think I'll be ok but will feel better once I get the wheel all the way on with some lugs on clean studs. I'm hoping the wheel will still be a little more recessed. Can anyone chime in on whether or not the lip is going to be an issue? I've got Eibachs, but don't know how far the wheel travels when getting compressed as well as whether or not it goes straight up or curves in a little towards the car.
Here's the initial pic:
Overall, I'm happy with how it looks. Unfortunately, the factory lugs won't work with the wheels so I definitely have to do something different (I'm leaning towards the Gorillaz based on how tight the holes are). Fortunately, I did have a set of wheel locks I bought off of LloydRage handy to at least try mounting the wheel. The bad news was that the new wheel is recessed more for the lug holes, which means they have to be threaded deeper. I started running the locks down, and ended up getting quite a bit of resistance - which I'm attributing to dirt and/or corrosion. I didn't have time to be able to clean the studs, so I put the 4 locks on as best I could. The wheel still a little bit of a wobble to it as a result. When I carefully lowered the car back to the ground, I'm thinking that the wheel got some positive camber due to the locks not being able to run all the way down. After looking at the where the wheel was sitting, I was worried that it was sticking out too far. It wasn't flush, but it looked like it was slightly past the inside edge of the fender lip. I tried to take a couple pics that would show where the wheel was sitting in regard to the fender's lip or edge but again, the camera in my phone really sucks:
I'd feel better if I could have gotten the wheel completely snug. The hub opening on the new wheel is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the factory wheel. Is there anything I can do about that? I don't think I'd be able to find a hub-centric ring that thin.
Here's a shot of the factory wheel and new wheel side-by-side. You can see the Hankook is slightly shorter than the factory tire. Makes me wonder if I could have gotten away with a 255/40/19 (haven't checked rimsntires sizer yet). In terms of width, the 255 is 20mm wider than the factory 235, which equates to a little more than half an inch. I'm hoping that will be ok for the fronts, and I think the rears will be fine with that.
All in all, I think I'll be ok but will feel better once I get the wheel all the way on with some lugs on clean studs. I'm hoping the wheel will still be a little more recessed. Can anyone chime in on whether or not the lip is going to be an issue? I've got Eibachs, but don't know how far the wheel travels when getting compressed as well as whether or not it goes straight up or curves in a little towards the car.