I'm about ready to give up on the '96 DA

[sprocket]

Today I changed the injectors. It started really hard and had a misfire for a little while. It basically started hard like it always does after sitting for any length of time.

I drove it around. The tick that sounds like a lifter is worse. I can hear it in the car. It might be ticking from more than one place. It runs OK when up to speed but the idle is still a little off, and it isn't quite smooth below 40mph.

Here's the killer: The low coolant warning came on and stayed on. It comes on sometimes, especially when first started, but it always clears. My other '96 does the same thing. This time it stayed on, so I checked the reservoir when I got home. There is plenty of pressure there when I loosen the cap. And yes there was something in the reservoir but it didn't resemble coolant. That's right, oil in the coolant and I think it might be a fair amount.

Oil filter adapter gasket is a possibility as I did see some oil spots on the ground lately and I can't figure out where the leak is, but I think it's in about the right area. It's just that it seemed like a lot of oil in the reservoir. The oil level isn't low though and I don't see coolant in the oil. But then there's that tick that's getting worse which suggests possibly an oil problem. I think I had better change the oil so I can get a good look at it.

 

[97MarkJA]

None of the items mentioned above are good things.
Have you checked to make sure the "lifter noise" isn't a plug jumping up and down in the hole? Silly question.. but I've seen it before.
It could actually be the lash adjuster if you have coolant entering the system.
Check the adapter gasket like you said.
If you do have a bad miss I would also check and see how bad the oil smells " wash down from the fuel"

 

[sprocket]

I wouldn't doubt that there's fuel in the oil with as many rich starts as it has had. If it starts rich again after installing new injectors then I know there is something else going on. I probably should do a compression test too, huh?

 

[Right on the Mark]

You ever pull the valve covers and check for broken valve springs?

 

[My Great 8]

It's sad to say but with all the trouble you have had, you could have purchased something for a little more money that wasn't abused and kept your hands clean. I'm not sure where you live but they are around in Florida and Texas for really good prices. Get on a plane and drive one home.

 

[sprocket]

A sad irony is that the car started right up this morning with the new injectors. The hard start is gone. Of course I didn't drive it anywhere.

 

[ford nut]

It's sad to say but with all the trouble you have had, you could have purchased something for a little more money that wasn't abused and kept your hands clean. I'm not sure where you live but they are around in Florida and Texas for really good prices. Get on a plane and drive one home.

He is up here in minasnowta.
Not too far from me.
Lucky to find anything rust free let alone a mark.
Sure sounds like the Oil filter adapter gasket.
You will know once you get it apart.

This car was not taken care of so it will have the common issues.
How bad is the oil pan?
How is the front end?
I hate to say it.. but you might be better off to drop the k member if it also has these issues.

Also pop of the valve covers like Right on the Mark posted.
This car is a project no doubt, hope its rust free.

 

[97MarkJA]

I wouldn't doubt that there's fuel in the oil with as many rich starts as it has had. If it starts rich again after installing new injectors then I know there is something else going on. I probably should do a compression test too, huh?

Not a bad idea, I would also do a leak down test.. Which is another way to check for a bad head gasket.
Head gasket go in many different ways, blown to the outside, oil to water, water to compression.. Or all of the above.
Could be the oil filter adaptor like what was mentioned. With no t-stat and as cold as its been I wouldn't think it would get hot for a while but if the cooling system has as a significant amount of pressure on it the head gasket would still be suspect.

 

[97MarkJA]

Did you change the oil btw?

 

[NoLimit95]

It's sad to say but with all the trouble you have had, you could have purchased something for a little more money that wasn't abused and kept your hands clean. I'm not sure where you live but they are around in Florida and Texas for really good prices. Get on a plane and drive one home.

I agree. I flew to Tampa with $2000 and drove mine home, Jan 2010 and mainly, rust free all over. It never will have it because Northern Alabama is about as far north as it's going to go.

 

[GMAN]

I can point out a few here in Houston with lower miles and some Black on Blacks as well.

 

[sprocket]

I have not changed the oil yet. Would it make sense to do so prior to a compression test? I would think so for a couple of reasons: #1, I might find obvious signs of coolant in the oil in which case it may be a waste of time to do a compression test. #2, the flooded starts likely have affected the oil's viscosity, which in turn would affect a compression reading.


Here's an important question: How much pressure should there be at the reservoir cap after a short drive (6 miles) around town? I should just do the same drive with my other MK8 to compare. There seems to be a lot of pressure to me. The coolant (if you can call it that) enters the reservoir when the cap is loosened. Could the oil filter adapter gasket failing cause increased pressure in the reservoir? I guessing "no" would be the answer.

It wouldn't have even been that big of a deal to have changed the engine right away. Now I've spent time and money screwing with this engine, although if I think about it, most of what I have done can be swapped to another engine. Mostly I'm just wasting time. Maybe.

 

[97MarkJA]

I think the cap is only rated at 16lbs.
I would change the oil for sure. If it were pressure from the coolant side I would think you would see coolant in the oil for sure.
If the car has sat for a while when you change the oil you will know right away. Coolant will be the first thing that comes out. If it has been running it will look more like a milk shake depending on how much is mixed in.

 

[sprocket]

The funny thing is, this car is either very close to being good to go or very close to deciding it needs a new engine. It's quite possible I could change the oil filter adapter gasket, change the oil, flush and change the coolant, and that's it; it's ready to drive. Or it could go the other way...

 

[UltimateSVT]

Look, everyone's opinions about what you SHOULD'VE done, or the cars you should've bought are great but that's not the case. You are knee deep in this one & unless you have another $2,800 to spend on another Mark right now, this is the one you need to worry about. You need to make this car run smooth again so you can decide whether to keep it or sell it. Either way you need to fix it otherwise don't expect to get a dime over $500 for it with a motor giving off horrible noise & misfiring. Don't get frustrated. If you can step away from the car for a couple days, do it, come back fresh & figure out the problems. Assess the damage & if you have to spend a HUGE chunk of change then my friend, you definitely should go another route.

 

[Markviiiedrea]

It's easy to change the engine on these cars. Sounds like an adapter gasket should be done next. They are easy to do and cheap.

 

[95MkViii]

i have a 96 motor with a blown head gasket ill see you dirt cheap!

 

[LowLincoln]

None of the items mentioned above are good things.
Have you checked to make sure the "lifter noise" isn't a plug jumping up and down in the hole? Silly question.. but I've seen it before.
It could actually be the lash adjuster if you have coolant entering the system.
Check the adapter gasket like you said.
If you do have a bad miss I would also check and see how bad the oil smells " wash down from the fuel"

+1. I remember hearing ticking sounds coming from the engine before my plug blew out of the head. Unfortunately I let the ticking go for too long, thinking it was the weld on my exhaust breaking apart. Big mistake. It didn't come to mind that it could have been a plug.

I lost two days of work waiting for the thread repair kit to arrive.

One thing I learned; having one of these cars requires you have a backup car as well. For me, my TBird was and still is in storage until I get the trans tailshaft gasket changed.

 

[sprocket]

There's no loose plug but thanks for the advice.

I took it for a little drive tonight. I haven't changed the oil yet. It started a little hard. If it still starts hard after the oil filter adapter gasket is replaced and the oil changed then I will know there is something else going on too. I think there is something else going on. I still plan on a cylinder leak down test but I will change the oil first.

That brings up a question: I don't want to change the oil twice, before and after the gasket change, but I also don't want to waste time and effort with the gasket if the leak down test goes badly. Do I need fresh oil to do the leak down test properly? I'm thinking there is fuel in the oil from all the hard, rich starts prior to installing new injectors.

The MPG is good. It runs pretty good on the highway, but it doesn't idle smooth. The temp gauge never budged.

I will be at a pretty good advantage doing the gasket this weekend. I have access to a hoist and I have replaced the thermostat and had all the hoses off a few times. I can get the thermostat housing out in my sleep and the hose clamps are positioned for easy removal. I've never done the gasket before but I have read instructions on how to do it. I don't perceive it being a problem, but this car is evil and something else always comes up.

 

[UltimateSVT]

this car is evil and something else always comes up.

Its not evil... Its a Mark VIII. Welcome to our world.

 

[ford nut]

If it was me I would get it in the shop, flip the switch in the trunk to kill the fuel pump.
Do a standard Cylinder Compression check with a compression gauge.

Numbers look good move on to the gasket.
You did a coolant check for a blown head gasket correct?

 

[Markviiiedrea]

. Do I need fresh oil to do the leak down test properly?

--------------------
I will be at a pretty good advantage doing the gasket this weekend. I have access to a hoist and I have replaced the thermostat and had all the hoses off a few times. I can get the thermostat housing out in my sleep and the hose clamps are positioned for easy removal. I've never done the gasket before but I have read instructions on how to do it. I don't perceive it being a problem, but this car is evil and something else always comes up.

You can do it before with the current oil in it. You’re just testing the piston rings and valves. If you do find a cyl that won’t build pressure or drops over time, squirt a little oil on the piston and re-perform the check. The oil will seal the rings and let you know if it’s the rings or valves leaking air.


As far as the oil filter adapter gasket just remove the wheel and inner fender, no need to remove the thermostat, just the end of the one hose that clamps to it. Then remove the oil filter and the 4 10mm bolts holding it on. And it will be a messy job so be prepared with an oil pan. Just make sure you clean both mating surfaces before reinstalling and make sure there aren’t any inserts from the old gaskets sticking to anything. Shouldn’t take more than 30 min to an hour to complete the job.

 

[GMAN]

Honestly Sprocket, I don't know how much you bought this car for. Your earlier posts say it was cheap. If it were me, and I was having these kinds of issues, I would find another engine, low miles prefarably. They are out there. Put it in and be done with it. Engines are cheap enough, and with all the guess work going on, change the oil before or after, oil filter adapter gasket, ticking. Your money is going to go into the new used engine and install catagory. That's my

 

[sprocket]

The problem is, I have often felt one or two steps from solving the issues. I get suckered in. Much of what I have done I would do to another engine; just before installing. In fact, I might do even MORE to another engine. I actually can't think of a single part I have put on this engine that I didn't put on my other Mark's engine. Oh, the radiator and now the oil filter adapter gasket. I actually did several more things to the engine on my other car and that WAS a replacement engine. I can STILL swap the parts to another engine. There is one about 50 miles from here with 106,000. It's an actual '96 engine. They want $650.

I would say I have spent around $500- $600. There's some almost new tires (less than 100 miles) I am buying that I am not including in those expenses.

I did a hydrocarbon test with a kit called "block test". You stick it on the reservoir. It passed.

I drove it to work today. The trip was uneventful. It stumbled slightly on start-up.

 

[ford nut]

Your on the right track and have a good plan.
I think your close.

The last thing I would do right now is a rattle can rebuild.
You know what you have, and its not hard to do what you are planing.

A couple simple tests take out any guess work.