htrdlincoln98
Dedicated LVC Member
You got all the parts. The piece with the wires needs to be taken apart to bolt the MAF in place then put it all together with a stock filter.
Here is the pic of my 80MM MASS AIRFLOW, keep on or take off?
- Thread starter vikingdiesel
- Start date
wait.. I dont see the actual stock maf...
the C&L wont fit in the stock air box, in the proper manner to make it work like it's supposed to.
crap.
Is there an aluminum housing INSIDE any of those plastic pieces?
if not..
Take the one off your car and flip it around opposite side of the sensor and see if it doesnt say "C&L" on it.
the C&L wont fit in the stock air box, in the proper manner to make it work like it's supposed to.
crap.
Is there an aluminum housing INSIDE any of those plastic pieces?
if not..
Take the one off your car and flip it around opposite side of the sensor and see if it doesnt say "C&L" on it.
htrdlincoln98
Dedicated LVC Member
You most like don't have the foam gasket that seals the MAF to the plastic housing. I would use some thing to seal the two pieces to stop any air leaks around the MAF. I'm not talking about the large foam gasket thats on the bottom piece in your pics.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Here are the pics, in the last (2) pics, which is the correct way? The maf should plug should be inside, correct?
That pic is correct for the wire, the other one, the wire was backwards but the small end is what comes out and is plugged in (hopefully you still have that wire harness) and the wire coming out of the housing faces down. It should be at the bottom. If you still need a pic, let me know and I'll get you one. Just make sure the wire is sealed in that housing good.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
it seems like they have you down the path to fix your issue.
there are calculations you can do to determine your MAF requirement - if you oversize that you end up slowing down the air stream - since the same volume enters the engine at less speed - which hurts your torque. Change your torque is very noticable.
there are calculations you can do to determine your MAF requirement - if you oversize that you end up slowing down the air stream - since the same volume enters the engine at less speed - which hurts your torque. Change your torque is very noticable.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
+1, you will need to put the stock MAF inside that housing. If you don't have one, let me know, I got one that I just cleaned up real good I'll sell. Housing and MAF only. It's already installed and ready to bolt on to your other piece and plug up.
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
yea, It seems like i need a stock maf, can i fit that 80mm maf in the stock box or no? Also, post some pics of the stock maf
htrdlincoln98
Dedicated LVC Member
The MAF in your pics doesn't have the flat end to bolt to the stock box. So no it wouldn't bolt right up. The stock unit has a flat end towards the filter to bolt to the box. Aby idea what the MAf you have now is from or what injectors it is setup for.
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
i wish, the previous owner cant remember either since he bought a long time ago
htrdlincoln98
Dedicated LVC Member
Get a stock one and you'll better off.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I took this one apart so you can see the inside and the foam gasket you're missing. The two pieces just snap together but the MAF bolts up inside to the funnel.
Once it's bolted in, make sure the foam gasket is laid around the edges and then put the outer shell on after plugging it up and it will snap together.
Once it's bolted in, make sure the foam gasket is laid around the edges and then put the outer shell on after plugging it up and it will snap together.
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
I took it to the dealer to for diagnostic (since I have a buddy working there) they said I need a new MAF since the check engine now comes out "LEAN" and not the old IMVR code I used to get and also the maf flow rate was low at 146 which it should be at 155. I then Took the K&N off and the bigger 80mm and replaced the stock airbox back as well as I bought a new MAF senser that comes wth the tube. I put everything back together, the check engine light came back on and the ride was the same. Same stutter and same bog, im going back to the dealer again tomorrow. Any other ideas? Also, right after a drive, if I turn the car back on, it will hesititate so much where I cant pull out of traffic until about a min or two once it clears up, it then pulls strong. Its whenever the turn the car on and get going is where its the worse but NOT if I turn the car on at first if it was sitting for a few hours like overnight
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
NOLIMIT94VIII, thanks for the pics. I put it all back just like that(i just dont have that square foam gasket)
that verifies pretty much everything I said, along with it may or may not "fix the bog" but it's definately a problem you dont want to "ignore".
your stumble, could be fuel related.
I'd start with putting a fuel filter and change the plugs and get a stock paper air filter in there.
and for gods sake, stop going to the dealer.
you'll get better, quicker and much cheaper information right here on LVC.
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
I added a new filter today when I put everything back to stock, new fuel filter was added last week, I am going to do the plugs either tonight or tomorrow. But the code is lean, I took it to the dealer bc my buddy is a tech, so I really dont pay for much. He just hooks it up to the comp and sees what flow rates are and gives some input from his experience. The autolite 764's are like $2.80 for (2) at walmart, thats really what I need? That cheap??
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
You're welcome for the pics. Yes, you need and want the 764's and they are cheap. I have used 764's and I have used high dollar platinum plugs and the platinum is no better than the 764's that use copper. 764's is the way to go. 2 prong, 3 prong, 4 prong plugs, w/e are no better than normal 764's
1. So , you have already changed the IAC.
2. Put a new fuel filter in.
3. Checked fuel line pressure on the fuel rail?
4. Have you changed out the TPS yet?
5. Checked for any vacuum leaks?
6. I know it's getting into the dollars but you might want to get a new set of plug wires also.
7. As for the square gasket, you can make one with one sided foam tape. Just try to cover all areas of the square.
Sometimes you can get a bog feeling if the trans is acting up. Does it ever feel like it's running out of gas?
1. So , you have already changed the IAC.
2. Put a new fuel filter in.
3. Checked fuel line pressure on the fuel rail?
4. Have you changed out the TPS yet?
5. Checked for any vacuum leaks?
6. I know it's getting into the dollars but you might want to get a new set of plug wires also.
7. As for the square gasket, you can make one with one sided foam tape. Just try to cover all areas of the square.
Sometimes you can get a bog feeling if the trans is acting up. Does it ever feel like it's running out of gas?
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
1. No, i just cleaned the IAC. Idle is fine though
2. Fuel filter is in
3. Did not check the fuel line pressue nor do I know how
4. No, is TPS throttle position sensor?
5. no, dont know how
Its not a trans feel, its somthing from the engine. When i had the chip, the IMVR code was on, when I removed it, the throttle response what much more responsive and smoother and now im running stock everything but the LEAN code MAF is what im getting which i just replaced all that and still the code. Here are the exact current symptoms:
I start the car in the morning, car runs and idles strong. I take off slowly, everything is fine. Im at a red light and if I go to punch it, it will just bog as if the traction control kicked it not allowing me to go anywhere (TC is off btw) so if I punch it, it will just bog once or twice and then brake loose. Now, I go to the store and park the car for say 20min, I come back out and turn the car on. I put it in gear and car shakes and stutters as it almost feels like its going to die, as im pressing the gas, the car just stutters and chokes and after about 1min it will clear up and go back to normal.
Whenever i leave the car sitting longer, it acts different. If I leave it sitting for a few hours, its fine after i restart it, if I re start it say a few times within an hr, it will just shake and stutter and clear out within 1 min.
What coud this possibly be.
CobraStar_LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
time for new set of coils???
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, TPS is the throttle position sensor. I would go ahead and change that out because it can cause a lot of weird problems if it's bad. Only cleaning the IAC isn't recommended but I doubt it has anything to do with your bogging issue. If putting on a new TPS doesn't help anything, your problem has to be fuel related as in pressure, bad fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Take it to your friend you were speaking of and he should know how to check the pressure. There is a black twist off cap that should be on what looks to be like a valve stem on the fuel rail. I want to say it should be around 30 to 32 psi while at idle. Keep in mind that a true fuel pressure test isn't only at idle. Try pulling the vac line from the FPR and see what you get. This will act as you are pulling a load at WOT. The guage should really be placed up on the windshield and taped down where you (watch what the hell you're doing) can see if the pressure drops below 35 psi during WOT. Take a rider with you to watch and verify the pressure, should be around 38 to 40 psi during WOT. Also, you say fuel filter is in but is it a new one? If old, it could be collapsed and retaining pressure but restricting flow.
I don't know what else it could be! Anyone else got anything to add?
I don't know what else it could be! Anyone else got anything to add?
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
ill have it checked out tomorrow, where is the TPS located? I took a quick peek at some of the plugs, and it seems like its got the AUTOLITE 764's. Could it be the plugs or the coils? But it was that, I what get a misfire, however, it kind of sounds like plug or coil since the car acts up when its driven back to back and not when it sits for a while which makes it seem like some of the plugs are wet with oil which is cauding the rough stutter and then it dries up when it sits too long..... hmmm??
fuel filter is brand new, hell it be funny if the guy who installed the fuel filter installed it the other way around, with the arrows pointing towards the other way.... but that was checked and it seems OK
fuel filter is brand new, hell it be funny if the guy who installed the fuel filter installed it the other way around, with the arrows pointing towards the other way.... but that was checked and it seems OK
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
This is your pic, see just to the left of the intake tube, mounted to the back of the throttle body? It's the black thing that has a wire harness plugged into it. I think 2 phillips head screws holds it on if I'm not mistaken. You're looking at about $40 to $50 for one of those. Change the PCV valve too. It's cheap and makes a difference! EGR valve also might need to be changed. 764's is what you want in the car. If what you have is old, change them. I really don't think it's your coils.
+1
it IS sounding to be fuel delivery related.
If the mileage on the car is between 75K and 150K that is right IN the failure window for the stock pump.
I also agree that TPS could be a contributing factor, the "dealership buddy" should be able to verify proper voltage at idle .99-1.0 volts and voltage at WOT should be around 4.99
If it's less than .99 at idle it can cause all kinds of goofy stuff to happen.
USUALLY lean codes are MAF related or vacuum leak related.
The dealership fried should be able to narrow this down quickly as he has..
1. the CAR
2. many diagnostic tools at his disposal.
We are just telling you things that are "commonly" the issue
the dealership friend is at a distinct advantage, while all of us have probably more experience, we dont have THE CAR.