Help Please !!!!No Power New battery Turn the key just dash comes on no clicks or tic

no body knows this car like a dealer would!

lets say that the dealer is expensive at $85 an hour, they take your hundred dollars for the diagnostic fee and then tell you whats wrong after working on it for an hour or so.


lets say you take it to a cheaper place that only charges $55 an hour, then they fukc around with it for three or four hours ($165-$220) and then it turns out that they cant even fix the problem because they dont have access to all of the important tools like a dealer does.

I wouldn't ever take my car to a non-dealer mechanic unless i personally knew somebody there that i had confidence in being able to work on a car like this.

didn't you already say that you had mechanic'ish friends look at it, and that may have already made problems worse.


the best technicians usually get paid the most, places cant charge the least amount in town for work, and pay their techs the most at the same time.






for the record, i would have a hard time taking an 86 civic to have work done at Pep Boys.
 
lets say you take it to a cheaper place that only charges $55 an hour, then they fukc around with it for three or four hours ($165-$220) and then it turns out that they cant even fix the problem because they dont have access to all of the important tools like a dealer does.

I wouldn't ever take my car to a non-dealer mechanic unless i personally knew somebody there that i had confidence in being able to work on a car like this.

didn't you already say that you had mechanic'ish friends look at it, and that may have already made problems worse.


the best technicians usually get paid the most, places cant charge the least amount in town for work, and pay their techs the most at the same time.


yes I will listen this time but one more thing I was reading thru some threads and I see that some ppl jump something in the fuse box to test the starter to see if the starter attempt to turn if anyone knows what i'm talking about can they please give me details on how to do this before I tow it to the dealer and find out the starter was shorten or bad wire? and get charged like a million dollars



for the record, i would have a hard time taking an 86 civic to have work done at Pep Boys.[/QUOTE]
 
lets say you take it to a cheaper place that only charges $55 an hour, then they fukc around with it for three or four hours ($165-$220) and then it turns out that they cant even fix the problem because they dont have access to all of the important tools like a dealer does.

I wouldn't ever take my car to a non-dealer mechanic unless i personally knew somebody there that i had confidence in being able to work on a car like this.

didn't you already say that you had mechanic'ish friends look at it, and that may have already made problems worse.


the best technicians usually get paid the most, places cant charge the least amount in town for work, and pay their techs the most at the same time.


yes I will listen this time but one more thing I was reading thru some threads and I see that some ppl jump something in the fuse box to test the starter to see if the starter attempt to turn if anyone knows what i'm talking about can they please give me details on how to do this before I tow it to the dealer and find out the starter was shorten or bad wire? and get charged like a million dollars



for the record, i would have a hard time taking an 86 civic to have work done at Pep Boys.
[/QUOTE]

The area where the dealer really makes their ching is the mark-up on parts. Let them diagnose the issue and if it's something as simple as replacing a part like the starter or alternator and you have the skills to do it, then go for it. Places like Rock Auto, tascaparts.com and teamfordparts.com have excellent prices for common replacement parts. If it is more detailed like the PCM, I would just suck it up and pay the dealer's price knowing I would be getting a 12/12 warranty with the job.
 
this is true is these the places that diagnose for free or strictly take it to a ford dealership?I think your right thou...damn smh
 
this is true is these the places that diagnose for free or strictly take it to a ford dealership?I think your right thou...damn smh

**** UPDATE! I brought a new relay and swapped it for the starter relay under the hood and I got crank but still no start. I check the fuel rail and it seems like its not getting fuel up to the engine. Remember I just changed the fuel fump. I think im getting some where.
 
No I cant here the fuel pump at all. Also is safe to test it with a digital multimeter if so How do i test it.

If you don't hear it it isn't receiving power. Make sure your connections are tight and correct.
 
which connections? which one is the fuel pump fuse and relay? thanks to you guys so far i'm almost there
 
I'm getting good power to the fuel pump but still no start I dont hear the fuel pump at all?

You need to check for power between the Green/orange wire and the Black/red wire. The Green/orange wire gets +12V via the fuel pump relay. The Black/red wire is switched to ground electronically via the REM. The REM controls fuel pump power this way and regulates fuel pressure. When measuring, you should put some load on the circuit too, like a several watt test light.
Do not measure to ground. Also note that the fuel pump is only powered for a second or two after you first turn the key to run.
 
Another dumb question joegr I just learned to use a multimeter off of youtube yesterday How would i do that using a multimeter?
 
I know this is not what you want to hear. We are going in circles here. You are over your head. You say you've made progress, but I think that maybe you are right back where you started when the car first wouldn't start, at best. You need to pay for the tow and the $100 dealer diagnostic. (Don't go anywhere other than the dealer.)

I could teach you how to use a multi-meter in-person, but I can't do it over the web.
 
this is true LOL. i think you and the other people have me on the right track cthu after dealing with this lincoln I will be a expert. Honestly could this have something to do with the ssp4 Rem relay?
 
this is true LOL. i think you and the other people have me on the right track cthu after dealing with this lincoln I will be a expert. Honestly could this have something to do with the ssp4 Rem relay?

***Im getting power to the pump I tested it with a test light but still no start?and how do you upload pics
 
If you really have power to the pump motor, but it isn't pumping fuel or even making any sound, then the replacement pump is bad. However, I find that slightly suspect.

Click on "Go Advanced" (after clicking reply) to upload pictures.
 
ok,
I read that I could see if the pump is bad to take a 12v battery and hook two wires up and if I hear the pump the pump is good ?So i tried that and when it I heard the pump it hummmmmed...LOL now I checked all the fuses and replaced the relays still no luck. any suggestions ?
 
This is the problem here. Connecting the pump straight to 12V was a bad idea and may have (probably didn't) damaged it.
You thought you had power to the pump, but apparently you don't.
I'm sorry, but you are in over your head. You really should get it diagnosed/repaired and be done with it.
 
This is the problem here. Connecting the pump straight to 12V was a bad idea and may have (probably didn't) damaged it.
You thought you had power to the pump, but apparently you don't.
I'm sorry, but you are in over your head. You really should get it diagnosed/repaired and be done with it.

but i think im just going to make a switch and call it a day
 
but i think im just going to make a switch and call it a day

There are a lot of ways to look at that statement. If you intend to hardwire the fuel pump, that won't work. The LS regulates fuel pressure by varying the power level that the pump is run at. If you direct wire the pump to ground, your fuel pressure will be too high most of the time.

On the other hand, if you mean that you are now going for more professional help, then good for you.
 

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