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KStromberg

Dedicated LVC Member
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I got a little sidetracked lol. It's been unseasonably mild here the last week so what the hell. Had to stretch the legs a little bit and visit the favorite "Lowry Tunnel". :shifty:

Highway Merge and rev limiter oops - YouTube
Mark VIII acceleration pull - YouTube
Lovely Lowry Tunnel - YouTube


And then we visited Dan's Turbo-T so he could start it up and get some tire measurements.

Dan's 1987 Buick Regal Turbo-T Built Car - YouTube



We have literally no snow up here right now which is very out of the ordinary so we were lucky to do any of this today, but I had the urge and we had a little bit of fun. :D
 
if i had that dead spot you have between shifts i would drive that :q:q:q:qer into the closest river and walk home god dude that has to be so annoying. and i am only bustin balls but the next time you post about trans problems or it doesnt run right, you might want to visit your 7 grand rev limiter valve spring tensile strength testing youtube video's!!!!
 
if i had that dead spot you have between shifts i would drive that :q:q:q:qer into the closest river and walk home god dude that has to be so annoying. and i am only bustin balls but the next time you post about trans problems or it doesnt run right, you might want to visit your 7 grand rev limiter valve spring tensile strength testing youtube video's!!!!

Bah, I know exactly what you're talking about and I'm sure you're referring to the lock-up issue in the tune creating that dead spot. And plus, you wouldn't drive a mid 13 second Gen2 into the river come on now. You'd be getting the tune fixed just like I am over the winter. ;)

I haven't had trans problems that were of my doing. I was sold a garbage tranny last year from the start of the mods process because the guy told me my stocker was junk (still shifted perfectly) and it wasn't. He convinced me to buy this other tranny and it was neutraling out on me as soon as I left his shady a$$. If you want me to go over specifics of this toolbag, I will and you will see that none of my problems so far have been of my doing.

I'm rocking a salvage yard transmission out of a 99 Vic with 80K miles and have probably put 20K hard miles on it so far NO problems.

Yeah, I bounced the rev limiter. Oh well, it happens every now and then. I'd be more concerned if I did it every time. Once it's dynoed, I won't manually shift it and won't possibly hit the limiter.

If it blows up, oh well. I have bigger and better plans in the future.
 
lmfao first off slow, kirk knows i am playin with him because we have that kind of relationship, and second of all when was the last time you rode in my old car? you havent got a clue what that car ran, i am not saying it was or wasnt faster than kirk's car, but to make a statement about a car you never rode in, drove, or have ever seen is stupid, thats like me saying my 98 lsc is faster than your car ever will be, how could i make that statement, i cant.
 
Stupid ha
if it ran that good you would have posted about it So much and its not my fault you didn't have the balls to take it down the track.
I also over when people say it feels fast get a g-teck and see how fast it is
Ps I can give :q:q:q:q too maybe you need to learn to take some
 
Thanks for everything guys. Compliments, insults, I'll take it all. It don't matter to me. :p


Sounds sick, and I could have swore alot of fords have that dead spot in them? :confused:

I'm not sure if "dead spot" would be a proper way at describing things LOL That to me makes me automatically think of a TPS issue which I don't think is what Jamie was referring to but rather what is being seen in the videos on the tachometer when the converter is locking. The converter is locking too early on both shifts in my opinion. On the 1-2 shift there is that issue plus an issue with lock-up occurring very close to the shift which is causing almost a double-shift feel which FEELS very crappy. Agreed there.

This is all speculation until it sees the dyno, but what I think needs to happen is the car needs to complete the 1-2 shift and then lock-up needs to occur about 2-3 mph after that and then unlock again for the 2-3 shift and then stay unlocked all the way up to about 95mph before it then locks again, so at the track, the converter would be locking in 3rd gear right before I hit the end of the track.

I might have the dyno shop set me up with a switch on my chip so that I can also run an unlocked converter in 2nd gear and see if that produces anything. So in other words the converter would be open the entire time until I hit 95mph at the track.

I really don't understand though, lol, because my chip tuner wants to lock the converter right away asap which for my car has proven to rob performance. The only way I was able to claw my way through the early lock-up in 3rd gear at the track and run awesome times considering is because I manually shifted the car and made about a 6600 rpm shift into 3rd gear which is where I think it should be regardless, but that brought it better in the torque curve so lock-up was diminished a decent amount because of that action.

My shift points are at 6200 and 6400 and that 200 rpm and 400 rpm difference for each shift made a huge difference(6600 rpms on both shifts manually). SO, I know where my shift points need to be, but regardless even with this action I could still feel the lock-up "lasso" around the car. It was still there, and that has to be resolved also.

See this video below for what I mean. The lasso is still there. At 1:05 you hear the converter lock. From there to the end of the track if you were in the driver's seat you would feel this sense of urgency and wanting to push the gas pedal further through the floor because that last 20mph just draaaaaags. If you were driving it like me you can feel this early lock-up in your bones. It sux LOL.

13 second club - YouTube


Just for a reference to what I was talking about earlier with the open converter setup in the tune and a later lock-up in third, here is that action seen in a 298rwhp Crown Vic. Like I said it will be put on a switch I'm thinking. There is some not so agreeing opinions on setting a tune up like this because we're told that locking converters make cars go faster, but this guy blasted down the track NA with his Vic and ran a 13.35 He claims his car was faster this way. Apples to oranges? Maybe, but I found it interesting anyhow. LOL

New NA tune without lockup in 2nd - YouTube

13.35 @ 100 - YouTube


Oh and for the record, I'm hoping the tuning and everything works out well because I'm aiming for the top. I'd like to work my way all the way up to a 13.1xx I'm thinking lofty like I did before, but I never thought the car would run a 13.59 on a $hit tune either. I still have a few tricks up my sleeve and weight reduction is not one of them(well except for the front wheels LOL). I've always vowed to stay full street trim with the comforts and amenities of a true Lincoln.
 
You can try no lockup but in my car it was slower, not just a little but a lot slower.

Once you have minimal or no torque multiplication from the converter you are loosing torque output if the converter isn't locked simply due to converter slippage and loss of efficiency.

Think of it this way. At any given rpm the engine is producing a finite torque output. For each converter there is a torque multiplication effect which is proportional to the difference between the input and output rpms. At any particular mph it takes a finite torque value to accelerate. If you plot these values, they are divergent curves. The trick is to use torque multiplication as far as practical before going to lockup mode. If you delay lockup too far you are loosing torque output due too slippage of the converter. If you lockup too early you are loosing torque by not taking advantage of the torque multiplication.

Given the myriad of converter characteristics, along with the specific torque output of a particular engine and required torque to accelerate a particular vehicle at any given gear, it is extremely difficult to accurately predict and subsequently recommend the specific lockup points that produce optimum results. Conversely, it is quite easy to have the incorrect lockup schedule. ;)
 
I'm rocking a salvage yard transmission out of a 99 Vic with 80K miles and have probably put 20K hard miles on it so far NO problems.

Any issues with taking the 4r70w out of the Vic? If not, I want to keep my old one as a spare (plus it's lower mileage and already j-modded)

As far as the torque converter lock up, my Vic had the problem BAD. Especially before the tune. Check out my pre-tuned video as evidence. Bad on the 1-2 even worse on the 2-3.

0-90 in an 2003 Crown Victoria P71 (pre-tune) - YouTube
 
Stupid ha
if it ran that good you would have posted about it So much and its not my fault you didn't have the balls to take it down the track.
I also over when people say it feels fast get a g-teck and see how fast it is
Ps I can give :q:q:q:q too maybe you need to learn to take some

lmfao i have no balls thats why i never took my car to the track. dude seriously please tell me your age. i dont revolve my life around cars, i had and still have nothing to prove. you want to compare balls pull them out little man.

and if you could give a :q:q:q:q why did you even open your suck hole in the first place?
 
God you get but hurt easy you wine more than anyone on this board
And my life doesn't revolve around cars it does revolve around my wife and kid
I'm not the one who sinks a bunch of money into a car just to have to sell it. I pay my bills first then mod my car and that's why my car is still slow and I still own it.
 
i didnt have to sell my car i wanted to because it wasnt a practical daily driver anymore, as the new owner is finding out too. big difference between having to sell it and wanting to sell it.
 
lmao do you know me? do you take care of me or my life? no you dont so shut your :q:q:q:qing mouth azzhole. why is what i do so important to you? if you dont like my posts or my whining, click out of the :q:q:q:qing thread its pretty easy. money well spent would have been that box of condoms your dad decided to put back on the shelf. dont be pissed because you cant be as spectacular as i am.
 
Any issues with taking the 4r70w out of the Vic? If not, I want to keep my old one as a spare (plus it's lower mileage and already j-modded)

As far as the torque converter lock up, my Vic had the problem BAD. Especially before the tune. Check out my pre-tuned video as evidence. Bad on the 1-2 even worse on the 2-3.

No issues that I know of. The output shaft and tailshaft length were apparently a good match and the electronics inside, are of course the same. Had it been a "CVPI" transmission, I may have had problems. I have a civilian transmission. Unfortunately I don't think a P71 transmission would work on your Mark VIII since tailshaft lengths and output shaft lengths would be incompatible.

I see what you are saying in your video. Again, it looks like you had early lock-up also. Your 1-2 shift seems very similar in behavior to mine. Not the perfect shift at all. On your 2-3 shift it also seems a little early at 85 mph. 90 mph I think would be even better. So how is your tune now and what is it doing? Just curious....

I always enjoy talking about tuning but I don't know nearly enough about it lol .
 
No I don't know you but you are easy to get riled up and that's fun to me
And yes you bitch a lot and you asked my age lets say I'm 15 what difference does it make

Kirk who is going to tune your?
I think you said aps possibly.
 
Are those painted silver temp wheels you have on the front?

Yessir. They are two factory steel spare rims painted hammered gray with two Firestone FR380? tires on them. The tires are rated for 111 mph which is plenty sufficient for NA passes and daily driving. Recently I picked up two very light aluminum spares from slowmkviii. I'm excited to run these up front instead. They are gobs lighter and I can pick up one wheel with the 55mph rubber on it with one finger. :cool:


Kirk who is going to tune your?
I think you said aps possibly.

That's the plan so far. I have an SCT chip and I guess now they have SCT software in house which they didn't have before so that will save me a little bit there. At this point, after the front suspension issues are addressed, I'm about ready to take it anywhere though for a proper dynotune. What I really want most importantly is a proper shift/lock-up schedule. All that other fine tuning is nice, but if the car drives like crap, even a dyno tune can be pretty mediocre. I need the car to be street-driven by the tuner if necessary. I want to be able to drive it from the dyno shop to the track and race it. I don't want to have to make repeated visits back to the dyno shop to get things right. I would like it to be how I want it the first time. I've already sent my chip back to Ohio like 5 times and that just got absurd, and the more absurd part of it all is it still isn't right lol.
 
No issues that I know of. The output shaft and tailshaft length were apparently a good match and the electronics inside, are of course the same. Had it been a "CVPI" transmission, I may have had problems. I have a civilian transmission. Unfortunately I don't think a P71 transmission would work on your Mark VIII since tailshaft lengths and output shaft lengths would be incompatible.

I see what you are saying in your video. Again, it looks like you had early lock-up also. Your 1-2 shift seems very similar in behavior to mine. Not the perfect shift at all. On your 2-3 shift it also seems a little early at 85 mph. 90 mph I think would be even better. So how is your tune now and what is it doing? Just curious....

I always enjoy talking about tuning but I don't know nearly enough about it lol .

im still interested in this whole torque converter thing. stromberg, dont you run a 3800?i was thinking 3400 wile mine is out now, but i havent experienced that drop in mine when shifting is that because its stock? the gears are on the shelf because i need the money for the motor so essentially you want the converter to lock up at your torque peak? technichally when should it lock up?
 
No I don't know you but you are easy to get riled up and that's fun to me
And yes you bitch a lot and you asked my age lets say I'm 15 what difference does it make

From what I see alot of his so-called bitchin is because people like you hide behind your computer and run your whore mouths. He brings alot of knowledge to these forums. Knowledge that I enjoy learning, so next time you have a thought about him-LET IT GO.
 
im still interested in this whole torque converter thing. stromberg, dont you run a 3800?i was thinking 3400 wile mine is out now, but i havent experienced that drop in mine when shifting is that because its stock? the gears are on the shelf because i need the money for the motor so essentially you want the converter to lock up at your torque peak? technichally when should it lock up?

Yes, I run a 3800 stall. I don't know if I can answer your questions correctly since I simply don't know enough about it, but I will throw some ideas out there. Driller is much better with this stuff than I am. The torque multiplication on a stock converter is significantly less and therefore the whole lock-up schedule is much different. The looser converter "spools up" a lot more to create more torque and then locks which I think in any real world situation would cause a more noticeable "fall back" on the tachometer upon lock-up than with a stock converter where the parameters for shifting and lock-up are much tighter. Know what I mean? And if all of that stuff is a bit off in the tuning, then you REALLY notice it. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me or help me with my wording.

From how I understand it, you want the torque converter to lock-up when it has reached its max torque multiplication and you then want to transfer max power through the drivetrain and to the ground through the rear wheels via lock-up. Torque(unlocked converter) gets you moving, and hp(locked converter) keeps you moving.

I'm not going to tell you what converter to run because that isn't my place, but I would suggest a 3600-3800 stall converter. The DOHCs put out on the lower side of torque, and I have found that an aggressive converter solves that issue very nicely. If I wanted to, I could probably even go a bit higher yet on the stall. If you want an awesome trans cooler, look at the TruCool 40,000#gvw cooler. That will fit perfectly in front of your radiator behind the air dam in the bumper and will keep things very cool. I have had no heat issues yet. Even if you go with a lower stall than I have suggested, still get that cooler. It really is simply an awesome cooler and it is a stacked-plate design which is better in design than the tube-fin type.
 
I actually agree with philly for once... Looks like slowmkviii instigated this one... now take it else where, we don't care to see it.

Anyway, Kstrom... whats up with the heavy breathing in the first video? I was like does he have an asthmatic in the passenger seat? lol
 

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