mmtphoto
Well-Known LVC Member
Abraham Lincoln-
I am in Glenside and not too far from you (40 minutes tops), the HID's are easy to do whoever you get them from, I got 5000K's and a friend got 4300, you honestly cannot see any difference-both are white and not blue, but they are not yellowish which is what your halogen high's will be when you leave them in to work with your new. low beam HID's. I think it is very common that the o-rings are too thick for the 9005 openings on your housings, so you swap out the o-rings from the 9005's that you will be selling at a yard sale (give the yard sale buyer the fat o-rings, just to make them crazy).
It is easy to reverse the plug that goes into the ballast so when you first fire up your new lights, only one will work OR maybe both will not work-you only have to flip the connector, it's not broken...
you need to do the trimbright fix, it makes the HID' so nice, you won't use your highs anymore. Many on here like to bake the housings, or cut them apart, I used a more direct method involving a hole saw, it was easy and will be accessable in the future for any repairs I want to do.
I did not cut the wire that annoyingly tells you that a light is out (it isn't, these just use less power so the headlight module thinks you have a light out) Hit reset, it goes away. I have not taken apart the steering column, to rig the highs and lows so that they stay on together when you push the multifunction lever away from you-the lows are bright enough you will not care about highs anymore, IMO. Or, if you want, you can pull the multifunction lever towards you and hold it long enough to see that the high and lows together are not that much better than the lows with HIDs=You will have to aim your low beams after you have done the trimbright and HID's, something you probably gave up trying to do with the lousy halogens.
I don't use the auto lights anymore, only because when the HID's fire up, they suck alot of juice-so I don't want them to go on when I first start up, since the new 200 amp alternator is already hard at work charging my new 1000 CCA battery after my Mark has been sitting for a week I(mine is not a daily driver, it is a fun car)-I manualy turn the lights on instead, makes for a happier electrical system. I am sure these can be wired into a relay to help this issue, but I'll get around to it some other time, maybe-I can live with it the way it is.
If you get these and want some help, road trip is no problem, but honestly, there is nothing to installing these-if I do come up, though, promise you won't make me drive 135 +MPH, I don't get tickets anymore.
I am in Glenside and not too far from you (40 minutes tops), the HID's are easy to do whoever you get them from, I got 5000K's and a friend got 4300, you honestly cannot see any difference-both are white and not blue, but they are not yellowish which is what your halogen high's will be when you leave them in to work with your new. low beam HID's. I think it is very common that the o-rings are too thick for the 9005 openings on your housings, so you swap out the o-rings from the 9005's that you will be selling at a yard sale (give the yard sale buyer the fat o-rings, just to make them crazy).
It is easy to reverse the plug that goes into the ballast so when you first fire up your new lights, only one will work OR maybe both will not work-you only have to flip the connector, it's not broken...
you need to do the trimbright fix, it makes the HID' so nice, you won't use your highs anymore. Many on here like to bake the housings, or cut them apart, I used a more direct method involving a hole saw, it was easy and will be accessable in the future for any repairs I want to do.
I did not cut the wire that annoyingly tells you that a light is out (it isn't, these just use less power so the headlight module thinks you have a light out) Hit reset, it goes away. I have not taken apart the steering column, to rig the highs and lows so that they stay on together when you push the multifunction lever away from you-the lows are bright enough you will not care about highs anymore, IMO. Or, if you want, you can pull the multifunction lever towards you and hold it long enough to see that the high and lows together are not that much better than the lows with HIDs=You will have to aim your low beams after you have done the trimbright and HID's, something you probably gave up trying to do with the lousy halogens.
I don't use the auto lights anymore, only because when the HID's fire up, they suck alot of juice-so I don't want them to go on when I first start up, since the new 200 amp alternator is already hard at work charging my new 1000 CCA battery after my Mark has been sitting for a week I(mine is not a daily driver, it is a fun car)-I manualy turn the lights on instead, makes for a happier electrical system. I am sure these can be wired into a relay to help this issue, but I'll get around to it some other time, maybe-I can live with it the way it is.
If you get these and want some help, road trip is no problem, but honestly, there is nothing to installing these-if I do come up, though, promise you won't make me drive 135 +MPH, I don't get tickets anymore.
lol For me it was one of those "its so dang cheap it worth a shot" sorta things.
