Gen 2 - March UD Pullies

DLF

DLF

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Has anyone installed UD pulleys on a Gen 2 and retained the Secondary Air Injection Diverter Valve?

It won't fit without modification as the front of the March balancer is solid.

Also, does anyone have a diverter valve for sale? If I decide to keep it, I'm going to need a new one, this one was really stuck, and the threads are gone now. :eek:

BTW - Not my car.

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SATURN5 said:
Possible to slice the bracket at each end, move forward and reweld?
Click to expand...

I was thinking that longer studs and some spacers might do the trick, but I'll take a look at your idea, thanks.
 
mine is removed too, i'm sure you can do it, but its gonna require moving the valve away from the pulley, i have the march pulleys too on my 97.
 
I have ones off of 96's 97's and 98's. Something I've never needed extra's of. I'll sell you one for $20 shipped. Hell I'll sell you 2 for $20 shipped. Let me know what year you want them from. There probably all the same, but I'm not sure.
 
chargerxr said:
I have ones off of 96's 97's and 98's. Something I've never needed extra's of. I'll sell you one for $20 shipped. Hell I'll sell you 2 for $20 shipped. Let me know what year you want them from. There probably all the same, but I'm not sure.
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If I decide to keep the system, then I'll probably take you up on your offer.

I'll let you know tomorrow night, I'm going to figure out what I'm going to do in the morning.

Thanks!
 
chargerxr said:
I have ones off of 96's 97's and 98's. Something I've never needed extra's of. I'll sell you one for $20 shipped. Hell I'll sell you 2 for $20 shipped. Let me know what year you want them from. There probably all the same, but I'm not sure.
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PM Sent.
 
So here is my solution.

I cut the 6mm portion of the stock studs to 12mm long. I made three 20mm long spacers from 6mm stainless steel coupling nuts and welded in 25mm long stainless steel studs (I probably could have used 20mm long studs instead).

I had to remove the spacer that is welded to the bracket on the upper left and put 3mm of washers under my spacer on the upper left to account for the fact that there isn't a bracket retained by that stud.

Just waiting now for the replacement diverter valve from chargerxr. ;)

And yes, there's enough flex in the tubing for this to work.

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it is the same, and thats the only reason i changed mine too lol. bracket looks like it will work out just fine looks good. i'll take my big empty area in front of my crank though, it makes for changing the belt a blind folded job, changing the belt around that valves sucks!!
 
Finally got the bottoming tap and die I needed to finish this up. Cleaned up the threads in the nut and ran the die over the threads on the diverter valve. M20 x 1.50 in case anyone is curious.

Assembled with anti-seize. :cool:

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I never really understood those things. I mean its job is to pump air into the exhaust right? Air pump up front that feeds that valve on top, vac signal to open, blows air into the lower pipe to the manifolds.

I assume its to make the O2 numbers coming out the tail pipe meet federal regulations. So why would the feds allow that? Engine isnt running any cleaner, you are just cheating by injecting oxygen into the exhaust so you can say "Hey look how much clean air comes out of the pipes" :lol:
 
The air pump only operates for about 90 seconds after startup, to lean out the rich mixture for the cats.

From the factory manual:

Secondary Air Injection Pump

The secondary air injection pump (AIR pump) (9A486) is:

an electric air pump which supplies pressurized air to the engine to aid in the reduction of emissions during the first 20 to 120 seconds of engine operation.

controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).

remote-mounted and incorporates a non-repairable filter and splash shield.
 
So then its to help the cats not get saturated with fuel and not just to cheat a start up tail pipe emissions test?
 
When I got my LS all these same parts the threads where buggered up, was like WTF? No extra taps to make bottom tap?
 
LaserSVT said:
I never really understood those things. I mean its job is to pump air into the exhaust right? Air pump up front that feeds that valve on top, vac signal to open, blows air into the lower pipe to the manifolds.

I assume its to make the O2 numbers coming out the tail pipe meet federal regulations. So why would the feds allow that? Engine isnt running any cleaner, you are just cheating by injecting oxygen into the exhaust so you can say "Hey look how much clean air comes out of the pipes" :lol:
Click to expand...

What the air pump is doing is acting like a fireplace air bellow. It is making the unburnt exhaust burn completely.
 
As a follow-up, it was necessary to remove one of the plastic struts in the fan shroud in order to clear the relocated diverter valve bracket.

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i installed the same pulleys on my 98, and assumed i would have charging issues, so i swapped in a 200amp alternator. It still doesent charge worth a :q:q:q:q at idle. my next step is to get a tune with slightly more idle spped(700 rpm should do it)
 
blacklsc1 said:
i installed the same pulleys on my 98, and assumed i would have charging issues, so i swapped in a 200amp alternator. It still doesent charge worth a :q:q:q:q at idle. my next step is to get a tune with slightly more idle spped(700 rpm should do it)
Click to expand...

I've also installed a 220 amp alternator in this customer's car, and the tune will have a bit higher idle as well.
 
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